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TV hookups sounds good, especially since I can use it as the main media center. I can always get a monitor some other time if I really want it. As for the rear fans, I ditched those and also the 200mm Cooler Master, since apparently the case already comes with a 200mm? Can I get by with the stock fan, or should I go for a custom fan? Here's the new parts list, I got rid of Windows for now (I'll find a 7 key somewhere) and ditched the monitor re: TV. I've already got at least one goon offering to help me put it together so yay  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($294.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock - AB350 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($108.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($144.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ B&H) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0 Video Card ($159.99 @ Amazon) Case: Thermaltake - Core V1 Mini ITX Tower Case ($45.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: Corsair - Builder 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($44.99 @ Newegg) Keyboard: Logitech - K270 Wireless Standard Keyboard ($29.99 @ Amazon) Mouse: Logitech - M705 Wireless Laser Mouse ($19.99 @ Best Buy) Total: $939.91 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-06 12:31 EDT-0400 Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Sep 6, 2017 |
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Sep 6, 2017 17:33
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If you decide to get another Windows key and don't want to deal with Ebay or sites like Kinguin, here's the SA-mart thread I meant: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3768345 Connecting your PC with a modern OS to a TV over HDMI is no pain at all. I built a living room PC based on the Fractal Design Node 202, it's a similar setup with a GTX 1050 Ti and I didn't have to set up anything to connect my fairly ancient Toshiba TV to it.
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Sep 6, 2017 18:25
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Did corsair 'builder' stuff suddenly become good?
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Sep 6, 2017 19:37
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not at all, especially if they were CXs the low end PSUs i'd suggest are the EVGA B3s, since there's a lot of them and they're from superflower's value line
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Sep 6, 2017 19:41
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I have a small form factor HTPC in the 3-liter range that: 1) Runs flawlessly 100% of the time and is always on, and never has issues or crashes or anything suggesting hardware or software issues, OS is pretty up to date and it auto runs Microsoft anti-malware scans all the time with no problems found 2) However it won't re-boot windows (or even seem to POST) after you update the OS, it's still running Win 7/whatever the last service pack was, and was reasonably up to date. Presumably it does this after any reboot/not just updates, but I never usually turn it off but had to restart to finish installing updates. It was a legit windows update initiated from 'windows update' tool in the system tray. About a year ago it did this same thing but would struggle to turn on - that is, it would start up the case/processor fans vigorously, and then after 4 seconds of that it would sort of lose oomph for booting up, sort of fade, and stop turning the fans/re-start again from the top. It would do this for 15 times in a row, and *sometimes* it would then get over the hump and start itself up/boot windows (I could hear the windows boot noise on my home theater, but no video.) At that time I tested by using an alternate power supply with no improvement/same results, and then I installed a shortie EVGA GTX 1050 card and the problem was immediately fixed, leading me to believe it was the motherboard on-board video that was problematic. But now it seems to start up fine (no hesitations like before), the front panel light is on, the fan case is spinning (a bit lethargically, but maybe that's always been the speed it runs, it's usually hidden behind a filter/the case cover), the stock i3 chip cooler is spinning, and the video card fan is spinning. But it never starts the bootup process (no motherboard startup screen/BIOS opportunity/Windows screen. Nothing, not even a flicker like a video connection is made/unmade.) Today: I cleaned out all the fans with compressed air - wasn't too bad and nothing obvious seemed clogged or problematic. I have tried a new/alternate 550 watt Corsair power supply, same result. I tried using a known working windows 7 boot drive in place of the existing one, same result. I had previously installed Chrome Remote Desktop to it in case of this problem happening again (thinking it was video based rather than something deeper), it no longer can be found through that even though it appears to be on (front panel light is on, fans are all spinning) I have checked my router's clients section, it does not show up on the network (last year, it would show up on the network which is what helped me diagnose that maybe it was the onboard video HDMI that was the problem.) Since it doesn't show up on the network at all, I haven't bothered trying to hook it up via DVI or VGA to a test monitor (my desktop). I am quite confused about it being a 'bad motherboard' or 'bad RAM' or whatever, simply because it works so 100% flawlessly when it is on. Zero problems at all, never have to force quit any applications, nothing. It was last rebooted 6 months ago and is always on, I use it for XBMC and to watch UK tv player websites primarily, some light gaming - but it doesn't need to be a gaming beast or anything for how I use it, I just need it to be able to play the latest codecs and 4K (which the new video card also helped accomplish.) My main goal for the rig is quiet and discreet as it sits in my entertainment center and looks about as unobtrusive as having a PC under your TV can look, currently. I need to have digital optical out because that's how my audio setup is set up, it's not negotiable, I can't do HDMI only. That seems to limit my choices for new motherboards if that's the next move. The questionable components: ASRock DDR3 1333 Intel - LGA 1155 Motherboards (B75M-ITX) Intel Core i3-3220 Dual-Core Processor 3.3 Ghz 3 MB Cache LGA 1155 - BX80637i33220 Kingston Technology HyperX 8 GB (2x4 GB Modules) 1600 MHz DDR3 Dual Channel Kit (PC3 12800) 240-Pin SDRAM KHX1600C9D3K2/8GX Boot/OS drive: Intel 520 Series Solid-State Drive 60 GB SATA 6 Gb/s 2.5-Inch - SSDSC2CW060A3K5 (Reseller Kit) Storage Drive: WD Red 1 TB NAS Hard Drive: 3.5 Inch, SATA III, 64 MB Cache - WD10EFRX Case: Silverstone Tek SG05BB-450-USB3.0 ALL Black Plastic/SECC Mini-ITX Computer Case with SFX 450W 80+ Bronze Certified PSU with 2X USB3.0 Front Ports Case The power supply that came built into the case is a SILVERSTONE ST45SF 450W SFX12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply Since I seem to have isolated that is not the power supply or boot SSD, any suggestions on what to do next? I tried the onboard HDMI port as well as the video card's. Would a bad SATA cable to the boot drive (seems unlikely) not cause more obvious issues than 'just doesn't do anything but seems to be on'? Since it works so perfectly when it's on, and it doesn't seem to make any difference on this current problem whether it's hot or cold from sitting overnight, it seems unlikely there's a chip seating/cooling problem. Obviously my components are now out of stock so I can't just buy a replacement identical mobo to test that, I'd love to fix this without needing to buy $500 worth of brand new hotness motherboard/RAM/chip. I'm perfectly happy with the current performance. This is with the test power supply attached to the board at both points and the two drives (The video card is powered through the slot.) That cable doesn't normally stretch around the video card like it seems in the second pic.  
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Sep 8, 2017 23:16
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Back up files then do the free upgrade to Windows 10? I mean I'm pretty sure it'll boot consistently at least after that.
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Sep 8, 2017 23:27
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Yeah, I was trying to update 7 and then do the Win 10 upgrade, before this happened. Since I get nothing out of it functionwise, I don't know how I'd be able to to a win 10 update unless I moved the boot drive to a different PC and did it there - but I don't know if motherboard variance would make that A Bad Idea.
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Sep 8, 2017 23:37
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So I put the HTPC boot drive into my desktop after disconnecting all the other SATA elements. got the 'Startup Repair' screen, it runs through the process and then says it cannot repair the drive,   It then gives the option of trying system restore (no restore points found although I believe I have it turned on on that system) or restore from disk image (also no files found, not surprising since I never made one) so I tried starting windows normally, it starts to show the Windows logo and then bluescreens to this:  Tried safe mode by hitting F8, tried safe mode with networking, both result in the listing of windows files being loaded and then bluescreen flashes for 1 frame/restarts. But it never does that (or anything at all) on the HTPC so I'm sort of thinking it's more likely a bad motherboard or RAM issue... possibly? and that this drive won't boot on my desktop due to motherboard/windows install driver mismatches? My desktop motherboard is a Gigabyte from a few years prior to that ASRock one in the HTPC, I have no real idea if this should/would matter or not as they're both Intel setups on Win 7.
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Sep 9, 2017 01:09
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Unless the configs are the same for both PCs you likely won't be able to straight swap dribest and have it work without issue unless I'm misunderstanding.
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Sep 9, 2017 01:59
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That's kind of my assumption as well, and since I can get it to 'do something' on my desktop but not the same result (or any result) on my HTPC, I'm sort of thinking the motherboard is dying/dead and will need to be replaced and hope the SSD is okay. I tried hooking the HTPC up via DVI (both onboard, and the video card, to my working desktop monitor) and also got nothing. My biggest concern about losing files on that drive is the configs for my Harmony remote/Windows Media Center remote dongle (I have some customized settings to launch apps and stuff but it's been ages since I set it up and who knows how I did it) and the configs for my XBMC/Kodi install, but I can get a copy of Ghost from work so should probably be able to extract those if the drive isn't completely dead and those errors/bluescreens are indeed config related. It doesn't make a lot of sense to me to buy an elderly motherboard to allow my current RAM and i3 processor to work (and maybe it's the chip that's the problem, who knows), and unless I get exactly the same motherboard (which of course is not even available on ebay anymore) I'd likely have similar drive config issues. I'll probably get that Win 7 key from the goondeal and reinstall fresh/upgrade to 10 if I can't just plug in the SSD and go. So I'm kind of thinking about this setup: ASRock - AB350 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard https://www.amazon.com/ASRock-Mini-ITX-Motherboard-AB350-GAMING-ITX/dp/B073BFTJQK AMD Ryzen 3 1200 Desktop Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Desktop-Processor-Stealth-YD1200BBAEBOX/dp/B0741DN383 Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB DDR4 DRAM 2133MHz C13 Memory Red https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-2133MHz-Memory-Systems/dp/B0123ZAYIW That's around $340ish shipped. Annoyingly I could get all of it tomorrow via Prime but the motherboard, which for all I know is being shipped from an Amazon third party seller somewhere in or behind a hurricane - so I'm likely going to do Will Call at Newegg for that so I can go pick it up Monday (and save $10 on shipping). What I'm first and foremost looking for is something quiet/doesn't use a ton of power since it's always on/doesn't put out a bunch of heat, this motherboard caught my eye because it has the Digital Optical output that I need. It's been a while since I had anything but an intel processor but I followed what you guys have been advising Pollyanna on what seems like a relatively similar need/build, and that looks to be the same vid card I have so that should mean it'll fit in my case okay. I'd like to save some money over the price of that 7 processor, and since this doesn't need to do any hard gaming beyond what the GTX 1050 can do anyway, I'm hoping this is a sensible build for my HTPC. I assume this brand new AMD processor is capable of handling h.265 codecs and 4k and all the future-edge video protocols? And then just cross my fingers that this setup will fit in my stupid case properly, looking at the pics it seems like it should, I have at least an inch of clearance from the intel cooler to the power supply and everything else is located roughly the same. Any suggestions/changes/obvious things I've done wrong in this selection?
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Sep 9, 2017 03:20
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I completed my Zaber build today. It was a transplant from my Node 202 but here is the updated parts list for those curious:  First let's start with the positives: It's beautiful and tiny, only the S4 Mini compares from a visual standpoint. Negatives now: Nearly every fitting, mount, and screw hole did not line up. I found myself spending a large amount of time bending and drilling everything so it would fit. Considering how they pushed back release and discussed just how much effort has gone into the tooling to make sure everything is super accurate this just seems extremely disappointing. One other thing that I thought was strange was they actually delayed shipment so they could acquire custom cut USB3 front facing cables but the cables they are shipping do not actually fit in USB3 pin outs correctly. I tried the cable they shipped with the case in a few motherboards and in all cases it will not lock in place on the notch on the slot. Just for giggles I also tried the cables that came with the motherboards I tested and they all locked in place on the z170 I am using. This became an issue because if ANY pressure at all was applied to the cable (And I left a decent amount of slack) it would pop the cable right out as seen below:  I ended up splicing a new cable using the ones that would lock in place. Things I'd do different: Custom length power cables and sata cables from cable mod. I squeezed everything where I could but man this would have been a good thing to do before I started the build. Will definitely be swapping them out soon. A few pics:   I'm glad I bought this case but after building in it I think I'd rather go with the ncase1 or the the Phanteks Evolv/Shift. The price they are asking just doesn't line up with the final product imo.
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Sep 11, 2017 00:51
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IceOrb posted:Custom length power cables and sata cables from cable mod. I squeezed everything where I could but man this would have been a good thing to do before I started the build. Will definitely be swapping them out soon. Please post updates. I just got my case in but damages from Harvey have put my PC plans on hold at the moment, which gives me a perfect reason to learn from other builds 
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Sep 11, 2017 04:12
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IceOrb posted:It's beautiful and tiny, only the S4 Mini compares from a visual standpoint. Forget about the Dan Case A4-SFX?
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Sep 11, 2017 04:16
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Lolcano Eruption posted:Forget about the Dan Case A4-SFX? Yes! Also a good choice! Variable 5 posted:Please post updates. I just got my case in but damages from Harvey have put my PC plans on hold at the moment, which gives me a perfect reason to learn from other builds Will do and please post updates when you can as well. I'd love to know if what I experienced was a minority issue.
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Sep 11, 2017 04:32
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When you say you spliced in a new cable for the usb3 ports, how do you mean? I can't imagine anything beyond soldering directly to a working connector would let the diff pairs work together well
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Sep 11, 2017 06:00
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Watermelon Daiquiri posted:When you say you spliced in a new cable for the usb3 ports, how do you mean? I can't imagine anything beyond soldering directly to a working connector would let the diff pairs work together well I mean I took a cable that fit and cut it down to the length I wanted. Poor choice of words on my part. It's ugly as poo poo but it works, doesn't pop out when I close the case, and isn't as rigid as the one they shipped either so I can run it around the main board a bit better. I'll likely replace it when I get the cablemod cables ordered.
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Sep 11, 2017 06:37
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I really wish USB 3 motherboard cables weren't so thick and unwieldy.
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Sep 11, 2017 19:44
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Dan is working on another case, this time slightly larger than the A4: https://hardforum.com/threads/dan-c4-h2o-a-water-cooled-sff-case.1944458/ It's still intended for SFX PSUs and ITX mainboards, but uses a fixed riser (the 3M one for the A4 is expensive and slows down manufacturing) and adds a bit more room (2 liters more) for water cooling parts and case fans. It also has a few more front panel connectors. I might sell my A4 for this, eventually. The additional size is no big deal to me and you gain some more flexibility for quieter/better cooling. [edit] Nevermind, the new one only has 60 mm CPU clearance, not 70, which limits it to water cooler or puny air ones like the L9i/a and Cryorig C7 again (Noctua eg. has two slightly thicker coolers which are 65 and 70 mm  )The other part I don't like is that video cards are still limited to 2 slots. All the good custom designs for eg. the GTX 1080 Ti (and Vega  ) use 2.5 slot coolers at least, so being restricted to lower end GPUs or lovely blowers (or bad custom coolers like the MSI Armor) is not great.
orcane fucked around with this message at 07:54 on Sep 25, 2017 |
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Sep 25, 2017 07:45
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orcane posted:Dan is working on another case, this time slightly larger than the A4: Comparing it to the Ncase m1, it seems a little lackluster. It's only 2L less than the M1 but seems to have less flexibility. The hard riser is a good cost saving measure but since they're departing from the back to back design, they're gonna trap more air. Both cases can use a 240mm rad, but the new Dan can't do 2x12mm rads so it's losing more flexibility there. It's still a very cool case, but I ended up with an M1 because I had a 1080ti and want to OC an 8700K in the future, so that lead me away from the A4 to begin with. Now there will be a 2 year wait with questionable cost, I'll just settle for the M1.
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Sep 25, 2017 08:05
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If you can fit a custom loop with CPU and GPU water blocks using a 240mm rad in the C4-H2O case it's going to be interesting, but there doesn't seem to be a lot of room for a reservoir and pump.
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Sep 25, 2017 08:50
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Yeah it looks like the self-imposed restriction of staying under 10 liters and the decision to save cost and manufacturing time by going for a fixed riser instead of the flexible 3M one means the case is still nearly as restrictive overall as the A4. The additional room does buy you better watercooling, if you're looking for that (the A4 V2 has room for only the Asetek 545LC and you sacrifice the front USB for it). And lower overall cost, which is probably the main reason he's doing it.
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Sep 25, 2017 09:32
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Coredump posted:I really wish USB 3 motherboard cables weren't so thick and unwieldy. They probably have to be because they carry the same amount of data as cat 6...
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Sep 26, 2017 23:11
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If you use an ITX board with the Corsair Air 240, will you be able to get a radiator up top as well as in the front? I know with an MATX board there's issues with ram / VRM heatsink clearance.
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Sep 27, 2017 02:30
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orcane posted:Dan is working on another case, this time slightly larger than the A4: Definitely a step backwards from the A4. Gotta go smaller, not larger. It can't even do two 120mm radiators, one each for GPU and CPU.
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Sep 27, 2017 20:01
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It's ambitious but I don't know why I'd take it over the M1.
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Sep 27, 2017 20:02
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Wistful of Dollars posted:It's ambitious but I don't know why I'd take it over the M1. In fairness it is smaller than the M1, but the cost is a going to be a huge factor and we won't know what that is for a long time.
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Sep 27, 2017 23:42
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So I decided to download and try budget PUBG yesterday and it basically turned my computer in an NCASE m1 into a furnace. Which is weird because my pc is around ~10 degrees colder while playing doom 2014 Anyways i went ahead and ordered an arctic accelero 3 off of amazon and hopefully that helps
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Sep 28, 2017 01:40
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horchata posted:So I decided to download and try budget PUBG yesterday and it basically turned my computer in an NCASE m1 into a furnace. Which is weird because my pc is around ~10 degrees colder while playing doom 2014 75c is perfectly fine for a CPU. If you have the space and the hours of time to install an Accerlero 3 then I'm sure you'll love the results but pay attention so you don't blow up your card.
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Sep 28, 2017 03:41
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Zero VGS posted:75c is perfectly fine for a CPU. I have one in my M1 on my 1080ti, too. I'm not able to stably run 120% power target so I left it at stock speeds but, at least its not throttliing in PUBG like it was with the FE cooler.
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Sep 28, 2017 05:32
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It doesn't necessarily belong in this thread, but I picked up a Raijintek Thetis and re-built my system in it, and it's a pretty nice case. By far the smallest case I've ever owned that could still somehow take an ATX board. My mATX Z97 board still looks huge in it, but I did go with a SFX PSU to help with cable routing/management.
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Sep 28, 2017 15:40
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VulgarandStupid posted:I have one in my M1 on my 1080ti, too. I'm not able to stably run 120% power target so I left it at stock speeds but, at least its not throttliing in PUBG like it was with the FE cooler. Can you provide any details to this? My 1080Ti FE is so loving loud in my m1 and I don't want to do a CLC to it.
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Sep 28, 2017 17:21
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I'm also interested in hearing about this, I'm about to move to an M1 from a Node 202 because it gets too drat hot.
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Sep 28, 2017 18:43
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nerdrum posted:Can you provide any details to this? My 1080Ti FE is so loving loud in my m1 and I don't want to do a CLC to it. Sure, I basically used a combination of these two resources to figure out what I was doing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kd1pR1-36Sw I didn't do what he did with half of back plate, though. He had extra screws that I did not, but it didn't seem to matter. I also didn't use washers/spacers on both sides of the card like he did, but I probably should have just to get a more even pressure. And this imgur album The album was attached to a reddit post. The post was somewhat helpful but once you see the picture its some mostly self explainatory. Although, he did say the fans pushing downwards provided better temps than upwards and they are Noctua P12s. I did not use the thermal pads like he did, I just used the thermal glue included in with the Accelero. He didn't mention this but it appears that he has used one of these to run those fans off the GPU's header instead of the CPU one, and you will need another PWM splitter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ZKZEQA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A18K25N425Y52T&psc=1 Edit: Overall, it's a nice set up, but I never would have done it if I hadn't been stuck with an FE through EVGA step up program. But, you could probably do a similar set up with one of those cheap gigabytes with the bad fans and stuff like that. However, I can't make any assurances on clearances. VulgarandStupid fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Sep 28, 2017 |
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Sep 28, 2017 19:48
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Not sure if anyone is looking for one of these, but I have a Socket 1155 ITX mobo for sale. Cheaper than ebay for sure. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3835790
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Sep 28, 2017 20:35
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IceOrb posted:I completed my Zaber build today. She's a beaut, Clark. Shame about the manufacturing tolerances.
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Sep 29, 2017 03:08
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https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16856158059 This is cool and all, but $800 for as 1060, mobo, case and PSU is still prohibitively expensive. It also sucks because socket 1151 will be EOL in a week and there's no guarantee MXM cards will come through, just like the last time people tried to build up MXM cards. It's just too bad because if the demand never gets there, the prices never come down, but if the prices for things like this are always so high, there won't be demand.
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Sep 29, 2017 10:32
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http://techreport.com/news/32617/asrock-lets-loose-a-volley-of-z370-motherboards Looks like Asrock won't be offering dual m.2's on either of their ITX Z370 boards, ugh. I'm not looking forward to buying an overpriced RGB Asus.
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Sep 29, 2017 13:07
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I'm more angry that it comes in gray for intel but I had to settle for gamer red for my ryzen
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Sep 29, 2017 19:33
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VulgarandStupid posted:http://techreport.com/news/32617/asrock-lets-loose-a-volley-of-z370-motherboards Preorders are up on ShopBLT for the overpriced Asus: http://www.shopblt.com/cgi-bin/shop/shop.cgi?action=thispage&thispage=01100300U033_B1FD867P.shtml Not too horrible at $185, but why the gently caress do we keep needing new motherboards with pretty much each and every Intel chip? What changed this time around? I'm pretty sure the motherboard makers pay Intel to intentionally not make chips backwards compatible.
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Sep 29, 2017 19:58
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| # ? May 12, 2024 13:57 |
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I'm running an Accelero with my 1080 in the M1. It works great with a pair of 120s exhausting out the bottom. I have both ends raised so the bottom exhaust has more space to vent before it hits the floor.
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Sep 29, 2017 20:14
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