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Had to cut off my swaybar end links last week when I was changing my springs/struts etc. New ones are on order. How do I torque them correctly? They've got a nut and the threaded part, which is the ball and socket type thingy, has an allen head on the end of it. The only thing I can think of is to get an adapter down to 3/8" drive on my torque wrench and then get a 7mm allen head socket to turn the stud while holding the nut steady with a wrench, but that seems like a sure way to strip the allen head part of the stud, ensuring that I'll need to order new links yet again, should I ever have to take them off for whatever reason. So, what the goon should I do fucks?
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Sep 30, 2017 05:15
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Id just practice on a bolt to get a feel and do it by hand. Its pretty easy to gauge roughly unless its only like 25ftlbs which is kinda hard being so light. Me and a buddy tested this one nigh and we both could almost nail it dead on if we practiced first. He breaks my poo poo all the time so i was kinda shocked he could do it too lol. E: also try out like how much you can turn with just your wrist etc. Like you can sometimes find a way to only use certain muscles and limit your movement and nail it that way because full effort will only be x ftlbs etc. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Sep 30, 2017 |
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Sep 30, 2017 05:43
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Leperflesh posted:I dunno. What color is your car? They'd mentioned ZX2, so probably a Ford Escort ZX2.
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Sep 30, 2017 05:51
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Thanks thread for pointing me to tirerack for ordering tires. In case anyone doesn't know, they'll even ship them to tons of different tire shops which made things quite a bit easier.
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Sep 30, 2017 19:52
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They're so well known that some tire places will match their prices if you ask. I got my Kumho Exta 4Xes at American Tire for Tire Rack prices that way.
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Sep 30, 2017 20:23
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:They'd mentioned ZX2, so probably a Ford Escort ZX2. Yeah, fair point on the rest of it though. I generally post really quickly on the phone at work so I didn't write nearly enough. Ford ZX2, DD use in CO. Some out of town use, but mostly in town. Most of the time if we're going out of town or in bad weather we take my Subaru. We get snow, but by the time you get home to put snow tires on the plows have cleared it off. So the main concern is slush and light snow traction. Obviously I don't want it to be super loud or feel like we're riding in a horse and buggy, but I don't think either of those is likely with decent all seasons in that size. We probably aren't going to drive this thing far enough to wear out new tires. It's gotten maybe 12k miles in two years, just as an estimate. And it's white.
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Sep 30, 2017 21:25
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wesleywillis posted:Had to cut off my swaybar end links last week when I was changing my springs/struts etc. New ones are on order. How do I torque them correctly? They've got a nut and the threaded part, which is the ball and socket type thingy, has an allen head on the end of it. The only thing I can think of is to get an adapter down to 3/8" drive on my torque wrench and then get a 7mm allen head socket to turn the stud while holding the nut steady with a wrench, but that seems like a sure way to strip the allen head part of the stud, ensuring that I'll need to order new links yet again, should I ever have to take them off for whatever reason. Have you had a look at the appropriate torque specs in the manual/online? A quick google shows the range is generally between 25-47 ft lbs. I did the end links on my first car before I really knew/cared about torque specs and I applied liberal amounts of loctite and used a big ol' ratchet till she was gutenteit.
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Oct 1, 2017 02:30
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Breakfast Feud posted:Have you had a look at the appropriate torque specs in the manual/online? A quick google shows the range is generally between 25-47 ft lbs. I did the end links on my first car before I really knew/cared about torque specs and I applied liberal amounts of loctite and used a big ol' ratchet till she was gutenteit. Yeah, I don't recall offhand what they are, but not that tight. I was thinking of doing what a previous goon suggested and trying to get the right torque by feel, or maybe just taking my milwaukee impact driver and just tightening the bolts that way. I don't want to use loctite, *just in case* I ever need to remove them, I don't woant to have to use a torch to remove them if I loctite that poo poo.
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Oct 1, 2017 05:53
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wesleywillis posted:Had to cut off my swaybar end links last week when I was changing my springs/struts etc. New ones are on order. How do I torque them correctly? They've got a nut and the threaded part, which is the ball and socket type thingy, has an allen head on the end of it. The only thing I can think of is to get an adapter down to 3/8" drive on my torque wrench and then get a 7mm allen head socket to turn the stud while holding the nut steady with a wrench, but that seems like a sure way to strip the allen head part of the stud, ensuring that I'll need to order new links yet again, should I ever have to take them off for whatever reason. The allen head is just to hold it from spinning while you tighten the nut enough to stop the joint spinning. At first, use an allen key to hold the shaft, use a small spanner to tighten the nut (smaller the spanner the less chance of even over-torquing anyway), eventually you won't need the allen key at all as the tapered joint tightens up, at that point use a torque wrench/socket normally. I went through all this with a susp rebuild on my e34. It was a lot easier than the lower control arm ball joint that has a nyloc nut and no allen key cut in the end. Only an impact driver could get that nut down without it just spinning forever. E: If it's not a tapered joint that will lock up like I described, then get a air con mechs torque wrench (they are open end spanner or flare wrenches - I used mine a lot in my rebuild), or maybe a crows foot socket for your torque wrench? Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:25 on Oct 1, 2017 |
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Oct 1, 2017 12:17
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WHAT IS WRONG WITH MY TRUCK 96 Tacoma, 4cyl, 2wd, auto, with none of the fixins that would make it even approach "a nice car", we talking manual windows and manual locks and the center console was taken out by the last dude who owned it and he put in a kill switch on the ignition so you gotta hold a weird button while holding the key (I love this truck) Just crossed 85k miles, I got it three months ago with maybe 80k or so (at only $3000! A steal!) The past two days the ... transmission, maybe? Has kind of super gone to poo poo. Engine revs super high but doesn't transfer any power to the road, when it's towards the top end of a gear So for example, I'm chilling on the highway in 4th gear, cruising along at 66 mph. I let off the gas a little bit and it slows to 64 mph. Truck decides to shift down into 3rd, which causes the RPMs to go loving nuts, like practically redline, and any moderate amount of gas I put into it doesn't do poo poo, it'll just keep slowing down until it gets to the bottom end of 3rd at which point it will pick up again. If instead of stepping lightly on the gas, as one normally would to accelerate back up to 65, I stomp on the gas as though I plan to pass someone, it'll rev up hard but get enough power to actually make it up past 65 and shift back into 4th, at which point it's cool The 1st-2nd transition is pretty much the same between 20-30mph And because it's super stripped down it doesn't have an rpm gauge so next time I take it for a drive I'm gonna have to just keep my code scanner up and read it on my phone to get a good feel for it So uhhhh I'm thinking it's not a bad tranny since it's only at 85k, reading some stuff from the internet leads me to maybe possibly the MAF or a clogged cat (I do have a persistent p0420 that I've been ignoring) or maybe some of the solenoids in the transmission that control the torque converter or something? Any suggestions on what to do? Sockser fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Oct 9, 2017 |
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Oct 2, 2017 03:31
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Check the transmission fluid first, make sure it's not low/burnt.
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Oct 2, 2017 05:00
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Fluid is a pretty nasty black color, and it was likely due for a flush anyway. Gonna get that taken care of maybe later this week.
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Oct 2, 2017 14:26
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Sockser posted:Fluid is a pretty nasty black color, and it was likely due for a flush anyway. Gonna get that taken care of maybe later this week. How black are we talking? Black transmission fluid can be a sign of seriously unhappy transmission components, not just old transmission fluid. Flush it out and see if it helps, then keep an eye on the color. You might have bigger issues here.
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Oct 2, 2017 17:33
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Over the last month or two I've kept an eye on Gumtree, and have put together a cheap speaker upgrade for my '96 Starlet. I've replaced the factory 4" speakers up front with Alpine 4"ers, and added Alpine 6x9s in the back. Bit of a pain in the butt -- had to fabricate some adapters for the front ones, and have yet to measure out the tricky back hatch to create a parcel shelf for the rear (any tips? don't have the original). The 6x9s are 60 watts, I want to say the 4" speakers are 40? At the moment they are all running off the factory head unit, but only the front or rear speakers will work at one time (toggle using fade). My assumption is that the factory tape deck isn't powerful enough to drive both. Think I mentioned it in the last post but I don't want to upgrade head units*, so I assume the solution is to get an amp, which I have already. It's an older Kenwood, appparently 35Wx4 @ 4ohms, which I know isn't great, but it was dirt cheap and I wasn't planning on going too crazy with this thing. First off, I need to test the amp. I was having a hard time finding the other side of the grommet inside the car, probably need to take the passenger dash apart again. In the meantime, I was just going to pop the hood, run the cables outside into the car, and play around with hooking up the speakers that way before I committed. Is there any easy way to get an ignition signal for the amp to turn on without cutting into the factory wiring harness yet? For wiring my plan was: 1) Get a Toyota wiring harness for a couple bucks + two lengths of that all-in-one 9 wire cable 2) Run that from factory head unit to under the passenger seat where amp will be 3) Connect to amp, run another length back into dash and connect up to original wiring/new speakers. Does this seem viable? I also still have that mystery sub + amp combo dealie which I now have a molex connector for, thought I would have a go at connecting later on. Do I just stack the leads on the battery terminal? Do I have to worry about that + amp being too much for the alternator on a little 90s econobox? *Factory tape deck has a circular, 13 pin connector that I assume is for a CD changer. Couldn't find anything for Toyota, but did see this Kenwood 13 pin to Aux cable. What are the chances that this would work on mine? My assumption is "not very good" but thought it might be worth a go. There is also the option to connect to the RCA input on speakers, but according to the manual having speaker input + RCA input connected at the same time can damage it. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Oct 2, 2017 |
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Oct 2, 2017 22:04
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So I'm having to take off my throttle body to replace my idle air control valve and I know I'm going to need to replace the throttle body gasket. Is there any reason I shouldn't do what I always do and just make one out of some thin cardboard? 2004 honda accord 2.4l
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Oct 3, 2017 00:40
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Is it worth saving $1.25? Cardboard does break down, and that's past your air filter so all the little bits and pieces are going right into your engine. Better hope it doesn't get wet, too.
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Oct 3, 2017 01:40
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Is there any easy way to get an ignition signal for the amp to turn on without cutting into the factory wiring harness yet? For testing you could always just run it to the battery through a fuse.
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Oct 3, 2017 02:04
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Hey, so I just bought my first truck, a 1967 Ford F-250. Have I made a huge mistake? It's mechanically sound, but it's turning into more of a project than I originally anticipated and I don't want to be relying on shops to take care of all the fun. I've done some typical maintenance and repair before but I'm a little inexperienced with all of the ways that things can truly go wrong on an older vehicle such as this. I'm about to buy a reprint of some shop manuals(unless I can find good deals on some used originals) and I know how to google poo poo, so I'm not too worried about my lack of knowledge but I can't help worry sometimes I've bitten off more than I can chew. I would greatly appreciate any sage advice, insight, or resources from some friendly internet strangers who've got experience with how to best take care of badass old trucks.
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Oct 3, 2017 05:57
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Lectim posted:Hey, so I just bought my first truck, a 1967 Ford F-250. Have I made a huge mistake? I have a friend who's working on an old truck (a Studebaker) and the one thing he always said was that for old stuff like this, your first concern was rust. What's the frame & body like?
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Oct 3, 2017 12:30
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My 2004 H6 Outback continues to ruin my life. I just got a overnight JDM junkyard motor that I'm in the process of transferring good-parts from the existing motor over, mainly things like hoses, sparkplugs and the intake manifold. Does anyone have any general advice for resurrecting salvage motors? I plan to run a very short OCI and give it a seafoaming after I get the car back together.
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Oct 3, 2017 18:07
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Boys who love boys
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I'm trying to decide if it's worth the money to fix my car to sell it, or just say gently caress it and scrap it for like $20 (and I mean literally $20, that's what the local scrap yard offered.) It's an 03 corolla, about 140,000 miles. It needs ignition coils, as in, it has none. They got donated to my future mother-in-law's car. New ones would be $200, not sure if that's something i want to get used from said scrap yard, if they even have a car with matching ones. It also needs a downpipe, at least to pass an inspection. VERY loud upper exhaust, and my more car-knowledgeable friend says that's the issue. And the rear, driver's side drum brake has seized. Last time I started it, back in July, I was able to "rock" it free and move it slightly, but that was months ago, and even if I get it free again, it clearly still needs replacing, and might as well do both sides while I'm at it, yeah? So that's all told going to be, what, close to $500 if I and my friend do all the work ourselves? But I feel like once it gets running it could easily go for $1000 around here, maybe a bit more. Nothing else is wrong with it, no rust, and has a set of winter tires, too.
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Oct 3, 2017 18:30
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Replace all that and drive it for another 100k
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Oct 3, 2017 18:49
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DrBouvenstein posted:I'm trying to decide if it's worth the money to fix my car to sell it, or just say gently caress it and scrap it for like $20 (and I mean literally $20, that's what the local scrap yard offered.) I say fix it just to sell it. You should be able to get all that done yourself, and sell it for at LEAST $1000. And then you can say you've flipped a car! Rock auto has the ignition coils new at $24 each. The exhaust might get a bit more involved, because the oem system was one piece. You may be able to cobble it together with the $30 downpipe and some sleeve connectors though. The brake? Really depends on what's wrong. it might just need to be cleaned and lubed up. Drum brakes get really angry when they're not used for a long time. Measure the width of the shoe material, and compare it to new ones online.
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Oct 3, 2017 18:52
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Buy parts from the scrapyard if they are so cheap to only offer you 20. Personally I would buy coils s/h from there and not buy new for $200, OEM is pretty reliable, especially if buying from cars only wrecked due to crash damage, same for brake parts. There's no reason for not spending some time and minimal outlay to get $2k or something for a running and licenced 04 toyota. That is unless your time is worth more to you and you don't want to spend time on a car learning stuff  If the bodywork is stuffed with dents or rust or the tyres are no good, E: or the interior trashed then maybe not worth it, but you seem to indicate that's all good. So a days work and all s/h junkyard parts could make you 1k easy? Fo3 fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Oct 3, 2017 |
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Oct 3, 2017 19:08
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Lectim posted:Hey, so I just bought my first truck, a 1967 Ford F-250. Have I made a huge mistake? I would just assume everything on it is going to break within 5 years, and prepare accordingly. I took on the smallest projects on my 1972 International until I worked up the courage to try the larger stuff. It was inefficient but I kept it on the road with minimal downtime. That helped me get a feel for what was right and what needed help. My strategy was focus on function first, then fit and finish. I purchased it with the goals of learning more about working on cars and having a truck for truck stuff, so appearance didn't mean a lot. I started by sealing up leaks and replacing hoses, rebuilding the carburetor, moved to brakes, suspension, then fuel injected, then pulled motor and transmission. The only thing I haven't touched is the bodywork, maybe next year. The only thing I contracted out was all new exhaust.
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Oct 3, 2017 19:32
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Yeah, fair point on the rest of it though. I generally post really quickly on the phone at work so I didn't write nearly enough. Sorry, just to get back to you: sounds like any well-reviewed all-season tire will do fine for you. The extra long lasting tires tend to be a harder compound which can be too noisy and are less likely to perform well in cold weather, so I'd avoid those. Take a look at the reviews and get something rated reasonably well for cold weather and you'll be OK.
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Oct 3, 2017 19:39
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DrBouvenstein posted:I'm trying to decide if it's worth the money to fix my car to sell it, or just say gently caress it and scrap it for like $20 (and I mean literally $20, that's what the local scrap yard offered.) I'll give you $21 for it
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Oct 3, 2017 21:32
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Over the last month or two I've kept an eye on Gumtree, and have put together a cheap speaker upgrade for my '96 Starlet. I've replaced the factory 4" speakers up front with Alpine 4"ers, and added Alpine 6x9s in the back. Bit of a pain in the butt -- had to fabricate some adapters for the front ones, and have yet to measure out the tricky back hatch to create a parcel shelf for the rear (any tips? don't have the original). That is strange, I drive 6 300w speakers off of my stock 5w VW head unit. I don't know a ton on the technical details but any speakers they make in old sizes usually will work well on low power units. Think 4x10" and 3.5" My suggestion is to get some speakers more suited to your unit instead of making some wiring nightmare in your car. I use these personally. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014Z7J3RO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 e: I'm not sure about amps but if you are looking for an ignition signal I personally wired the signal in one of my cars by running a wire to the defroster fuse (on the fused side ofc) just stuck the end right in the slot and stuck the fuse in on top of it, not proper but it is easily reversable. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Oct 3, 2017 |
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Oct 3, 2017 22:24
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Crossposting from the Porsche thread: So I took my 1986 n/a 944 in to get the brakes flushed and bled today by a local shop. I picked it up, and it's idling funny: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpsxXpEeRUU It was doing this briefly when I bought the car in April, but not once since then. I thought maybe it would clear up once the car was warmed up (normally it runs rough for the first thirty seconds) but it didn't clear up. Vacuum leak? Idle control valve (which looks like its under the intake manifold)?
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Oct 4, 2017 00:17
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Lectim posted:Hey, so I just bought my first truck, a 1967 Ford F-250. Have I made a huge mistake? Some description of your areas of concern, and accompanying photos, may help.
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Oct 4, 2017 01:53
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Lectim posted:Hey, so I just bought my first truck, a 1967 Ford F-250. Have I made a huge mistake? Most old iron can be fixed with a combination of various hammers and a decent SAE socket set. Factory manuals are a drat good start. My Nova has 3 different ones so make sure you get everything you can. I know "GO!" is always the first thing you wanna do, but "stop" should be pretty high priority. Get it up in the air, get the wheels off, and make sure the brakes and wheel bearings are in good working order. I'm guessing it's probably drums on all four corners, so you may want to start doing a little research on those so you're not totally blown away once you get in there. No better way to learn than to get in there, so get to work! And make a thread.
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Oct 4, 2017 02:19
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If you want to learn how to wrench then an old truck like that is perfect. It'll probably have decent support for parts, and definitely a lot of info on repairs online. Unless you're planning on tearing it down + rebuilding on a timeline then it should be something you can ease into as problems come up.
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Oct 4, 2017 02:53
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Pretty much. Parts (aside from interior) will be easy to find until the end of time, and there's a strong community behind all domestic trucks of that era. I'd suggest converting it to electronic ignition at some point though; Ford started using Duraspark around 1973, and IIRC it's not hard to retrofit that onto the older engines. My F-150 had DuraSpark II, and the ignition system was pretty reliable. The box did crap out once, but there was even a factory mounting provision for a spare.  (at the time you could snag one from any parts store, don't know about today)
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Oct 4, 2017 03:04
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I'm currently renting a 2016-17 Nissan Altima while my Mazda is in the shop after being hit. I noticed the other day a small underbody fin just in front of the passenger wheel was loose (plastic bolt is gone, looks like). Went to look again today and 3 (!!) loving panels are now loose. At least 1-2 more bolts/fasteners are gone. Does anyone know for sure what size/type I might need? I'm not doing anything crazy in this car, I promise, but I'd rather fix this myself than risk tearing up the panels and/or paying some exorbitant fee to the rental place when it goes back. I managed to pop one back onto a bolt that's still there, hoping it will hold long enough to make the lengthy trip home to some ramps and where I can easily ship parts.
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Oct 4, 2017 03:35
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Black zip ties sound like a pretty good solution here, if you're that worried about it.
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Oct 4, 2017 03:54
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Black zip ties sound like a pretty good solution here, if you're that worried about it. I drat sure don't want to get charged. The one bolt that's still in wasn't accessible from the backside, the others I'm not sure, worth a shot though.
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Oct 4, 2017 04:49
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REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS posted:I'm currently renting a 2016-17 Nissan Altima while my Mazda is in the shop after being hit. I noticed the other day a small underbody fin just in front of the passenger wheel was loose (plastic bolt is gone, looks like). Went to look again today and 3 (!!) loving panels are now loose. At least 1-2 more bolts/fasteners are gone. Does anyone know for sure what size/type I might need? This is funny man. They will not give a crap when you return the car. They'll do a cursory check then you'll have no liability. They are not gonna check the underside.
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Oct 4, 2017 04:54
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Michael Scott posted:This is funny man. They will not give a crap when you return the car. They'll do a cursory check then you'll have no liability. They are not gonna check the underside. I dunno, they did a pretty thorough going over when I picked it up, and I honestly saw it from about 100 ft away. One panel was drat near on the ground, so I figured might as well tidy it all up.
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Oct 4, 2017 05:02
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You had them document that, right?
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Oct 4, 2017 07:07
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The bolt that holds the sway bar end link to the control arm got stripped while replacing some suspension components on my lovely Golf. Got the replacement bolt and it will not thread in because the captive nut/threaded insert/whatever this red arrow is pointing to got stripped: How fix? I'm thiiiiiiis close to wadding up a buncha JB weld on the end of the bolt, shoving it in there, and waiting overnight
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Oct 4, 2017 15:04
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