|
I painted some deer this weekend! Link for way too big A friend said that he doesn't like the all-white eyes but I thought it gave them a good possessed-ish look which is kind of what I'm going for. Here's one of the riders:  I was thinking of painting his skin a pale, ghostly blue to go along with the theme, I just hope it goes well with the brown steeds and the gold/bronze metallics I'm doing on the rest of the model. Thoughts?
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 14:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 09:56 |
|
|
Deino posted:I painted some deer this weekend! I'm liking it so far, the color scheme on the deer as is is nice and bold. (What models are these again?) e.: Ooo, maybe add a light blue OSL glow around the eyes to indicate "possession?" That would also tie them to the light blue skin on the riders.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 15:19
|
|
|
They're GW Wild Riders / Sisters of the Thorn. I replaced the heads with some from Mierce Miniatures, as I want a more brutal tribal feel to my Sylvan Elves. Good call on the blue OSL as well, that'll be perfect to go along with the blue skin. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 15:28
|
|
|
I've been painting for a few years now. I feel like I've gotten decent. I can blend fairly well if I put my time in. However, I'm still utterly incapable of painting thin straight lines. Everytime I try it's a complete mess. Is there some secret trick to this? Are people really doing stuff like this with a regular brush? Is there some easier way to do this? Like maybe with some sort of acrilic pencil?
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 17:51
|
|
|
Mugaaz posted:I've been painting for a few years now. I feel like I've gotten decent. I can blend fairly well if I put my time in. However, I'm still utterly incapable of painting thin straight lines. Everytime I try it's a complete mess. Is there some secret trick to this? Are people really doing stuff like this with a regular brush? Is there some easier way to do this? Like maybe with some sort of acrilic pencil? Do it fast, keep the bristles under constant pressure as you move the brush so they're slightly bent. Brace both wrists together.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 17:54
|
|
|
TTerrible posted:Do it fast, keep the bristles under constant pressure as you move the brush so they're slightly bent. Brace both wrists together. In any case, I feel it's easier to go back and neaten up a fudged highlight or other assorted line than it is getting it perfect to begin with.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 18:34
|
|
|
Yeah, the first key is fast. The slower you go, the more wobble there'll be in your line. The second key is to accept that your line won't be perfect, and you can touch it up/sharpen it by using the other base color.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 18:37
|
|
|
Anyone have any recommendations for miniatures for Fragged Empire? It's a sci-fi RPG and, in addition to these species, there are also a variety of drones and machinery. Other than the official minis (which are $25 each), Infinity looked to be the closest match. I'm wondering if someone out there makes a high-quality sci-fi mini that's a little bit cheaper.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 19:11
|
|
|
I'll try the speed thing. Are you sure there isn't some sort of pencil that can be used to create perfectly uniform width lines?
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 19:14
|
|
|
Longer bristles will also help you paint in a straight line. The flexing of the bristles will counteract slight movements/shaking of your hands. This is why liner brushes have like 3 inch bristles on them.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 19:16
|
|
|
Mugaaz posted:I'll try the speed thing. Are you sure there isn't some sort of pencil that can be used to create perfectly uniform width lines? You could mask off the area with artists tape and get a perfect line, but its probably more trouble than its worth. You can also use a micron pen if you think it's more accurate or easier to handle than a brush.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 19:23
|
|
|
Duct Tape posted:Anyone have any recommendations for miniatures for Fragged Empire? It's a sci-fi RPG and, in addition to these species, there are also a variety of drones and machinery. What kind of style are they in? Star Saga is coming out in October barring any delays (which will probably happen), it's by Mantic Games who tend to err towards 90's stylized characterful minis rather than the modern realistic ones, though. It's got a pretty hefty number of minis so you might find something that fits.   I can relate to Infinity being pricy, especially if you're going to be using them for a non-infinity project. I wont give any links for obvious reasons, but Aliexpress haa miniatures vendors that often get a few Infinity folk. Just stick with people with good ratings.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 19:30
|
|
|
Duct Tape posted:Anyone have any recommendations for miniatures for Fragged Empire? It's a sci-fi RPG and, in addition to these species, there are also a variety of drones and machinery. I'm using infinity minis. If you can find a cheap copy of Sedition Wars that could work for minis and tiles. Mantic games sci-fi minis can work too and are pretty cheap for wargaming minis. There are a few Reaper sci-fi figs that could work too but their scales aren't always very consistent if that matters for you.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 19:40
|
|
|
That owns. How has Mantic's sculpts progressed? They used to advertise something like that but in real life it looked more like this: 
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 19:47
|
|
|
Wow, that looks great. It's really by Mantic? I haven't much liked their model range historically.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 19:48
|
|
|
Shadin posted:That owns. How has Mantic's sculpts progressed? They used to advertise something like that but in real life it looked more like this: I'l let you know when I get mine  , bought in at 100 zorkmids because I figure it will be a nice goal to work towards, painting quality-wise.Their last game (I think) was The Walking Dead, which looks pretty solid:   
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 19:56
|
|
|
I always get so paranoid about overpriming my minis that I don't get around to it
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 21:45
|
|
|
Duct Tape posted:Anyone have any recommendations for miniatures for Fragged Empire? It's a sci-fi RPG and, in addition to these species, there are also a variety of drones and machinery. These might work for a some of the humans/aliens http://www.thecommguild.com/roller/thecommguild/entry/the-broken-plastic-ragtag-civilian
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 00:05
|
|
|
Phi230 posted:I always get so paranoid about overpriming my minis that I don't get around to it I'm bad about this, but if you stick them in simple green immediately after overpriming it will come off easily and completely in like 30 minutes.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 00:16
|
|
|
Gravitas Shortfall posted:These might work for a some of the humans/aliens Aren't maelstroms edge the Dakka Dakka guys? Nifty! Can all 6 guys get built such that none of them are visibly mutated? Schadenboner fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Oct 5, 2017 |
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 00:23
|
|
|
My primer is so drat glossy I can't tell if I overprimed or its just too shiny
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 02:09
|
|
|
 Do these look overprimed Phi230 fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Oct 5, 2017 |
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 02:39
|
|
|
Maybe this isn't as much the case for miniatures as for model kits, but you generally dont want to prime on-sprue, since it will leave unprimed marks and flash-cleared areas when removed & cleaned up that will end up being brighter/darker than the rest of the mini. It's pretty cheap to get some gardening/green foam, alligator clips, and skewer sticks, and will give you better control over what gets how much primer. As for overpriming they don't look bad. If you're spray priming take note of recessed details, and try to avoid making those areas too 'wet' as you prime; you still want full coverage, but if the recessed area is looking softer you may want to either stop covering that area or even re-do it if you think its bad enough. That having been said, spray primers use cool lacquer, which means that the paint will 'tighten' up as it dries and vents solvent-based gasses.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 03:05
|
|
|
So I've begun painting and messed up my layer highlights twice. Any good resources?
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 03:09
|
|
|
Do you mean edge highlighting or dry brushing? If you're talking about edge highlighting, just use colored pencils. If you screw up, you can just wipe it away with your finger. Once you're happy with them, do a quick coat of dullcoat and continue painting.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 03:20
|
|
|
OptimusWang posted:Do you mean edge highlighting or dry brushing? If you're talking about edge highlighting, just use colored pencils. If you screw up, you can just wipe it away with your finger. Once you're happy with them, do a quick coat of dullcoat and continue painting. No like I wash, then re-applying the base color Here:  Using a black wash on Blue Grey Something looks off. I've only painted the pants Phi230 fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Oct 5, 2017 |
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 03:53
|
|
|
So this primer is a gloss primer. I'm gonna try to restart completely with a flat primer. What's the best technique to strip primer?
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 04:28
|
|
|
To all AusGoons; I'm planning on flogging my citadel paints. They'll probably go up on eBay in the next fortnight but if anyone's interested, send me a PM. There are, like, 80 of the things.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 06:43
|
|
|
 I have no idea where to go next with this model. But I'm happy so far.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 13:00
|
|
|
Phi230 posted:So this primer is a gloss primer. I'm gonna try to restart completely with a flat primer. What's the best technique to strip primer? Depends on the primer and the material of the miniature but soaking in Simple Green for 24 hours or so and then scrubbing with a toothbrush usually does it for me.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 14:26
|
|
|
Phi230 posted:So this primer is a gloss primer. I'm gonna try to restart completely with a flat primer. What's the best technique to strip primer? I use Super Clean, and have personally found it works better than Simple Green. Also, the quicker you get your models into the soup, the easier it will be to get the primer off.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 14:50
|
|
|
Does anyone have experience with using GW's orange wash? I'm doing some Cult of the Rusted Claw GSC, going for a very bright, construction worker look, so I started with Troll Slayer rather than Jokaero which looked pretty good on my Magus, but after washing him with Agrax Earthshade like Duncan had done in his videos, I feel like it doesn't look right in the creases and made brightening it back up more work than need be. I feel like the logical answer is to use an orange wash instead, but figured it was worth asking first.
FromTheShire fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Oct 5, 2017 |
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 16:05
|
|
|
You might be able to find Wargames Factory skeletons at your FLGS. They tend to be small and fiddly, but they're the literal-bare-bones style seen in Ray Harryhausen's Jason and the Argonauts. They would probably work out the best for this application. I'm not sure on availability these days, though. Comedy/cheapass option: Reaper Bones minis. On the plus side, they're cheap as gently caress and usually come in packs of 3. Downside, they're usually monopose, with weapons integrated into their structure, and the mold lines are notoriously hard to remove. e.: Oh, that's why I couldn't quote your post about skeletons, you changed the original text. e2: or i just posted in the wrong thread, goddammit Dr. Gargunza fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Oct 5, 2017 |
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 16:19
|
|
|
richyp posted:The Militia from the City of Pastelheim-on-Purpleteal are a modern and equal opportunities organisation, first they hired a female Stormcast that for some reason looked exactly the same as the rest of them (it later transpired that 50% of them were already and noone knew as they wore helmets) and now they're hiring vertically challenged folk from the sky. I'm not sure if you went over it already or not, but how do you paint that wonderfully rich purple?
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 17:50
|
|
|
Dr. Gargunza posted:You might be able to find Wargames Factory skeletons at your FLGS. They tend to be small and fiddly, but they're the literal-bare-bones style seen in Ray Harryhausen's Jason and the Argonauts. They would probably work out the best for this application. I'm not sure on availability these days, though. Nope, you were right, I posted in the wrong thread first, edited to be what I meant to ask in this thread, and then posted that question where it belonged haha, sorry for the confusion. I'm taking a trip to my LGS tomorrow so I will keep an eye open, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 18:32
|
|
|
FromTheShire posted:Does anyone have experience with using GW's orange wash? I'm doing some Cult of the Rusted Claw GSC, going for a very bright, construction worker look, so I started with Troll Slayer rather than Jokaero which looked pretty good on my Magus, but after washing him with Agrax Earthshade like Duncan had done in his videos, I feel like it doesn't look right in the creases and made brightening it back up more work than need be. I feel like the logical answer is to use an orange wash instead, but figured it was worth asking first. Yep, I use it a lot. Its a weirdly bright but also dark wash, if that makes sense. Its like if you took their Sepia and turned the color knob up on it. I use it on red haired dwarfs and stuff all the time. You might try Sepia or Fleshshade, alternately.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 18:36
|
|
|
Before I actually restart I just need some technique advice: Only the pants are painted on this model. In the form of basecoat + black wash + reapply basecoat. 1. Did I apply the wash too unevenly/too thick? 2. Did I over-apply the basecoat over the wash? 3. Is the re-applied basecoat, over the wash, supposed to be thinner than normal? 4. Should I be lightening the basecoat color when I reapply it over the wash? Is the gloss primer (which is the reason why I'm restarting) a factor in why it does not look too good?
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 18:39
|
|
|
So, it's hard to t ell much from that picture, ,but in general when I am doing fast army painting, I prefer to basecoat, highlight, and then highlight TOO MUCH, and then wash. You don't need to rebasecoat avfter that, and just a small highlight over the wash will often look really good. Keep in mind though, that there's very little "supposed to" in painting. Honestly, if you are thinning your paint to not get brushstrokes, anything beyond that is just do what looks good. Experiment a little.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 18:43
|
|
|
Phi230 posted:So this primer is a gloss primer. I'm gonna try to restart completely with a flat primer. What's the best technique to strip primer? Your original pick was pretty blurry so I couldn't tell if the primer looked off. Did you wash them before priming? As mentioned a soak in some diluted green and scrub with a toothbrush will get you back to square one. Are you spray priming or brush priming? You'd probably have to try pretty hard to over prime, if your paint is running on off the model or pooling that'san indicator. Usually a few passes with a rattle can from about a foot and some change away does the trick. Also you might want to take a knife to the mold lines like on his hat etc...
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 18:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 09:56 |
|
|
JoshTheStampede posted:So, it's hard to t ell much from that picture, ,but in general when I am doing fast army painting, I prefer to basecoat, highlight, and then highlight TOO MUCH, and then wash. You don't need to rebasecoat avfter that, and just a small highlight over the wash will often look really good. Well mostly I'm concerned with why the wash settled in such a way as to make very very large dark spots, so that I didn't have much free room to actually highlight. I guess I'm asking, that when I'm re-applying the basecoat where do I actually highlight? Especially when there aren't a lot of details and it's mostly flat like the above model's pants. Phi230 fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Oct 5, 2017 |
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 18:46
|
|