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Does it make any sense to buy a warranty for my 2008 Prius with 133k miles?
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Oct 4, 2017 15:09
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scuz posted:The bolt that holds the sway bar end link to the control arm got stripped while replacing some suspension components on my lovely Golf. Got the replacement bolt and it will not thread in because the captive nut/threaded insert/whatever this red arrow is pointing to got stripped: How come you didn't buy control arms when doing the suspension? Did you press out and press in all those bushes already, or wasn't it that big of a susp rebuild? If you didn't just press in all those bushes then buy a control arm with bushes. Otherwise if you have already got new bushes and ball joints in the old control arm then find a shop to reweld the captive nut.
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Oct 4, 2017 15:17
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Josh Lyman posted:Does it make any sense to buy a warranty for my 2008 Prius with 133k miles? Put the money in a bank account.
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Oct 4, 2017 15:35
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Josh Lyman posted:Does it make any sense to buy a warranty for my 2008 Prius with 133k miles? No.
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Oct 4, 2017 15:36
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Fo3 posted:How come you didn't buy control arms when doing the suspension? Did you press out and press in all those bushes already, or wasn't it that big of a susp rebuild?
scuz fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Oct 4, 2017 |
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Oct 4, 2017 15:40
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Since I'm looking at my own trello board again, I was reminded of something I asked in the A/C thread without ever getting an answer, so here's another one: If I suspect that my A/C compressor failed and threw a buncha little metals shards throughout my system, what components do I absolutely have to replace and what can be saved with a flush? edit: Meh, screw it, I'm gonna replace the compressor, drier, expansion valve, condenser, and install an inline filter. Seems good. scuz fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Oct 4, 2017 |
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Oct 4, 2017 17:08
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We're thinking of buying a Civic Hatchback in the UK, either a late 7th gen 2.0 litre or an early eighth gen 1.8. Anything in particular to watch out for? Parts you want have been replaced already? Common failure points?
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Oct 4, 2017 17:24
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Father Jack posted:We're thinking of buying a Civic Hatchback in the UK, either a late 7th gen 2.0 litre or an early eighth gen 1.8. I'm wondering if that 1.8 had the same problems that the 1.8 had in the US-spec eighth gen Civics - the engine block cracks at around 50k on many of them.
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Oct 4, 2017 18:01
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I have a 2014 Honda Civic Sedan LX. It's my first car (bought pre-owned), and I have two questions. 1. Should I wait for the maintenance minder to pipe up before going in for an oil change? I've already put 7500+ miles on it since I bought it, but it says my oil life is still at 40%. I drive mostly on highways with not too much start and stop, so that might be prolonging the life of the oil. 2. I live in the northeast, and will need to buy a set of snow tires in the next few months. I was wondering if anyone had suggestions for a good set of snow tires that aren't too expensive. I don't have a budget per se, but I'm just looking for a reliable set that doesn't break the bank. Thanks!
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Oct 4, 2017 18:13
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scuz posted:I've already replaced the control arm in question. Timeline was: I'd just swap the LCA again. They're cheap and it'll be less of a pain in the rear end long-term than globbing stuff everywhere.
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Oct 4, 2017 18:14
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0toShifty posted:I'm wondering if that 1.8 had the same problems that the 1.8 had in the US-spec eighth gen Civics - the engine block cracks at around 50k on many of them. Wow, was not expecting that. This thread suggests that issues only affects the R18A1 and the UK got the R18A2, but if anyone has a more official source I'd be keen to see it.
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Oct 4, 2017 18:24
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What are these plastic Y catches called?
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Oct 4, 2017 18:39
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drainpipe posted:1. Should I wait for the maintenance minder to pipe up before going in for an oil change? I've already put 7500+ miles on it since I bought it, but it says my oil life is still at 40%. I drive mostly on highways with not too much start and stop, so that might be prolonging the life of the oil. Absolutely yes. I've been following mine to the letter (2013 CR-V) and sent in a sample to Blackstone labs early on to double check - it's accurate. It helps that 0w20 only exists as a full synthetic oil. scuz posted:Looks like I'm just gonna have to get that nut re-welded or I could probably just do that myself since I have a welder. Can you drill / tap it for a larger size? Or possibly just run a tap through it to clean up the threads?
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Oct 4, 2017 18:45
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IOwnCalculus posted:Can you drill / tap it for a larger size? Or possibly just run a tap through it to clean up the threads?  Time to see who has a metric tap set...
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Oct 4, 2017 19:09
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drainpipe posted:I have a 2014 Honda Civic Sedan LX. It's my first car (bought pre-owned), and I have two questions. I just bought a set of blizzaks fellow northeastern goon. 400 with an $80 mail in rebate from tire rack.
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Oct 4, 2017 19:37
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So according to the literature, the bolt is M10x50 which is the finest pitch I've ever heard on a bolt that large. If I wanted to tap it to be more coarse, could I keep the M10 or should I move up in size?
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Oct 4, 2017 19:41
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You sure it's not M10x1.50? I'd say it sounds like a situation that's a good candidate for helicoil repair. Taking it out to an M12 is probably just fine, but will an M12 bolt fit through the bit that attaches to it?
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Oct 4, 2017 19:53
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See that's what I'm concerned with, too. I'm just gonna pick up a cheap tap set from HF on my way home and give 'er a whack. And no, I'm not sure that it's not M10x1.50 lol, I'll check that, too.
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Oct 4, 2017 21:02
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M10x50 would be one thread every 50mm, so it'd be impossibly coarse. It's almost certainly M10x1.50.
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Oct 4, 2017 21:05
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I was reading it as M10x.50 but that's probably wrong, too. Oh well, all will be known to me once I'm home from work and under my car
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Oct 4, 2017 21:09
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M10x1.5 is a fairly common thread pitch on cars.
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Oct 4, 2017 21:47
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BlackMK4 posted:What are these plastic Y catches called? Apparently it's called a push latch. Now to see if I can remove mine and figure out what size to order from China. http://www.pingood.com.tw/en/category/Push-Latch/50803.html
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Oct 4, 2017 21:59
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Sometimes, the hardest part of replacing broken poo poo is just figuring out the part name.
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Oct 4, 2017 23:34
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Father Jack posted:Wow, was not expecting that. Here's the American Honda TSB, and it shows where the cracking happens on the block: https://www.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/104809/A10-048 Here's the consumer reports blurb https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2014/03/free-engine-replacement-for-2006-2009-honda-civics/index.htm I can't find anything on what the difference is between the R18A1 and R18A2, and where they were made. I found one post by some random guy that says the A2 doesn't have the cracking issue, but he has no source.
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Oct 5, 2017 03:36
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IOwnCalculus posted:M10x50 would be one thread every 50mm, so it'd be impossibly coarse. It's almost certainly M10x1.50. It's this, the 50 is probably the length of the bolt in millimeters. Usually if a metric bolt is described without the thread pitch then it'll be coarse thread, which is 1.5 for an M10 bolt.
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Oct 5, 2017 04:20
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0toShifty posted:Here's the American Honda TSB, and it shows where the cracking happens on the block: Thanks, I'd seen the TSB, unfortunately it doesn't expressly say 'This doesn't affect the A2'. It's full of references to the A1, but I guess that's to be expected from a document produced by Honda US. I called our local Honda dealer today and talked to them about it, the service manager said he'd never heard of it being an issue on UK cars. I tried calling the Honda UK customer care line as well, but they just referred me to my local dealer. I’ve seen a few people claim on forums that UK/Euro cars are not affected, but no claims to the contrary. I’ve can’t find anyone railing about it being addressed by the US TSB but not honoured by UK dealers. Still a bit off putting though.
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Oct 5, 2017 14:42
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How bad of an idea is buying a $450 1985 Plymouth Turismo? Because guess what I just did.
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Oct 5, 2017 22:19
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 Hey guys, my tire is screwed. So, how badly screwed am I? Should I unscrew the screw, or, should I just leave it in place and drive over to America's Tire and let them screw with it?
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Oct 5, 2017 22:36
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If the tire place is close I'd drive it, if the screw is long your tire will deflate when you pull it out and if it's short well it doesn't really matter anyway. If you want to be extra safe, put the spare on and drive the tire over to get patched. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Oct 5, 2017 |
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Oct 5, 2017 22:42
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Leperflesh posted:
Just leave it in and bolt on over there. Edit: for reference, I drove on this for a whole day before I figured out where that missing screw from my trailer went: https://imgur.com/a/HtT4e GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Oct 5, 2017 |
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Oct 5, 2017 22:46
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It's about three blocks away, and we noticed a sound coming from the tire a couple days ago so it's not actively leaking much or at all. The dilemma is if I can unscrew it and no air comes out, then is the tire OK? Or should I just assume it's punctured and go pay money to find out. e. Actually the fronts probably only have another 5k on them anyway, I might just replace them.
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Oct 5, 2017 22:48
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Leperflesh posted:It's about three blocks away, and we noticed a sound coming from the tire a couple days ago so it's not actively leaking much or at all. lol if you unscrew that and no air comes out, it's because there's no air in the tire. You touch it and you're gonna lose pressure. Just go get it patched or plug it yourself if you don't really care that much. That white stuff around the screw is from air being released from the tire as the screw punctured it.
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Oct 5, 2017 22:50
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Unless that screw is very short (I've had this happen once!) it is definitely punctured. Between how close it is to the sidewall and the wear on the tires, I'd just replace them. Good chance that the tire shop won't patch tires that worn out anyway.
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Oct 5, 2017 22:51
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mkay thanks goons e. america's tire dude said given the placement they can't fix it. Got a pair of Ecsta 4X IIs coming from Phoenix for $83 each plus install and fees. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Oct 5, 2017 |
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Oct 5, 2017 23:01
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Stupid GMT800/LM7 question. Sometime this week my wife was driving the Silverado and it started throwing lean trim codes (p0171/p0174) for both banks. Don't know exactly when it happened b/c the CEL is perma-lit LOL knock sensors and ebcm relays and we haven't noticed any drivability issues. I'm going to install the fuel filter that I think I have sitting in the garage and make sure my intake isn't gaping. I hear that these intakes manifold can leak when cold, and my plan is to do my knock sensors as soon as our other car is unfucked. Any other areas on these engines prone to vacuum leaks?
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Oct 6, 2017 03:26
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Boys who love boys
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So I spent a chunk of last weekend doing a wash/clay/wax on the jaaag, here she is now: Since I haven't got proof that the timing chain work was done (now at 65k miles) I've ordered some parts and found a local specialist to get the work done. Since there's so much involved in getting to the chains I figured it'd be a good time to do a few other things - this is the list so far: *Timing Chains, tensioners, guides, and all seals/gaskets involved in getting to this point *Thermostat *Spark plugs *Water pump *Serp belt Anything else I should look at "while we're here"? I think I covered the bases pretty well but....?
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Oct 6, 2017 12:32
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monsterzero posted:Stupid GMT800/LM7 question. Sometime this week my wife was driving the Silverado and it started throwing lean trim codes (p0171/p0174) for both banks. Don't know exactly when it happened b/c the CEL is perma-lit LOL knock sensors and ebcm relays and we haven't noticed any drivability issues. If that engine has that spider fuel injection system thats probably your issue. It could be the fuel pump too, but that injection system is a lemon.
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Oct 6, 2017 22:57
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LM7 is a LSx with proper port injection, not the garbage spider injection on the L31.
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Oct 6, 2017 23:05
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Yeah lol the thought of those things triggers me.
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Oct 6, 2017 23:45
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My wife has a 2000 Honda Odyssey that just had a rebuilt engine put in it about 500 miles ago. Today it wouldn't start. No radio, no lights, no door chime, nothing. We ended up buying a new battery and putting it in where it was stuck at. Still wouldn't start. We called a tow truck, the driver was able to jump it with her truck and cables. We drove it around the parking lot a bit at her request and it ran normally. We then shut it off, tried to start it again unsuccessfully with the exact same symptoms as before. Any idea what it could be?
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Oct 7, 2017 00:55
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