|
berzerkmonkey posted:I was just giving you crap - all WIPs look terrible until they hit that one particular tipping point. How did you do the lightning bolts? Just really fine brushwork? Yes, please describe the lightning process, Hixson (and welcome back!) I've given myself the potentially maddening task of "paint basically a Hubble photograph onto the robes of a gnome," and any tips will be welcome. 
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2017 21:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 21:28 |
|
|
Decorus posted:Is there some easy way to create a sandy base? I have a bunch of models for the campaign that would look much better with a textured base, but I'm too lazy to do much work for it. By far the easiest way is to paint the base with white glue and then dip it in actual sand.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2017 22:51
|
|
|
Gilgameshback posted:By far the easiest way is to paint the base with
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2017 22:55
|
|
|
Yeah, please describe the lightning technique its really great
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2017 23:11
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:Are we talking about the same glaze medium? I use Vallejo Glaze Medium and found that even a little bit added to the paint mix is crazy good for reducing pooling, and if the mix does pool it's more likely to dry smooth and not leave ring marks. It might have gone off. The bottle is ancient. I'll try with a newer bottle and report back. Also my GW Leviathan Purple Ink smells really funky. Anyone had that happen before?
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2017 23:15
|
|
|
Z the IVth posted:Also my GW Leviathan Purple Ink smells really funky. Anyone had that happen before? Those washes are still good to use despite the terrible smell, they get better once they've dried 
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2017 00:17
|
|
|
berzerkmonkey posted:I was just giving you crap - all WIPs look terrible until they hit that one particular tipping point. How did you do the lightning bolts? Just really fine brushwork? Dr. Gargunza posted:Yes, please describe the lightning process, Hixson (and welcome back!) The lightning is incredibly easy. I spray thin lines across the model with VGA electric blue to simulate the "glow" where you want lightning like this:  Then it's just brush work with watered down white. It isn't precise by any means. Just draw some jagged lines. Go back over a second time and give some of the "intersections" of the white lines a second coat to make them pop out
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2017 00:36
|
|
|
TTerrible posted:Yeah, please describe the lightning technique its really great Now you can copy my homemade totally original technique forum poster TTerrible
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2017 00:36
|
|
|
Yeah, and GW's texture paint is pretty much a perfect scale for sand with a model that size. What I find, at least with a Citadel base, is that a thin coat of texture paint and then a drybrush will catch both the texture from the paint, and also the moulded texture on the base itself. I find it looks a lot better than using real sand.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2017 01:46
|
|
|
Lovely Joe Stalin posted:Yeah, and GW's texture paint is pretty much a perfect scale for sand with a model that size. What I find, at least with a Citadel base, is that a thin coat of texture paint and then a drybrush will catch both the texture from the paint, and also the moulded texture on the base itself. I find it looks a lot better than using real sand. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2017 01:59
|
|
|
n'thing texture paints. They work really well.     You can wash them first if you want to tint them, like I did on the Megaboss. That's astrogranite with a wash of druchi violet. They also work really well with rocks or cork, if you want to add some scenery to your bases.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2017 02:57
|
|
|
If you don’t mind painting them the Vallejo ones (dark earth, black lava, red oxide, etc) are a lot cheaper. I’m certainly not gonna glue sand anymore.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2017 03:01
|
|
|
JoshTheStampede posted:If you don’t mind painting them the Vallejo ones (dark earth, black lava, red oxide, etc) are a lot cheaper. Fun fact about Vallejo Black Lava (sorry for the incoming déja vu): You can spread it in a thin layer, flatten it out, and then drybrush it with progressively lighter greys for easy asphalt pavement! Also, the texture paints, GW, Vallejo and otherwise, can all be put on the base before priming, and painted in any scheme you like. This step is unnecessary, but some people (me) like to do that to avoid any hassle guiding the texture paints around models' feet and potentially loving up their paint jobs.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2017 03:51
|
|
|
Painted up a mechanicum boy last night  Gosh i love painting their red robes, so dense!
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2017 07:39
|
|
|
   Making good progress on my Raptors biglys. WIP chaplain: 
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2017 10:00
|
|
|
Ayn Marx posted:
Looking great so far, nice and clean! (I hadn't even noticed that the bigmarine helmets facilitate freehand skull painting on the faceplate.)
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2017 15:24
|
|
|
Ayn Marx posted:
I like the "alt-WW2" vibe the OD Green gives these guys.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2017 15:54
|
|
|
Here are some of my Primaris (Warhammer 40k) - the Knights Repentant. I wanted to improve my freehand so I created a chapter where every marine has custom heraldry.   And one with one of my feudal world guardsmen for size comparison. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2017 19:46
|
|
|
Dr. Gargunza posted:Looking great so far, nice and clean! (I hadn't even noticed that the bigmarine helmets facilitate freehand skull painting on the faceplate.) Those are the Reiver helmets, which have sculpted skulls. Regular biglies are MK IV helmets.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2017 20:27
|
|
|
Now the impossible task of picking a paint for my soon to be here patriot. Got rid of all my modelling supplies when I sold my models last, so I'm pretty much starting from scratch with this airbrush gear. 6mm-15mm will be the main thing painted. I've used P3 and Citadel in the past.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 05:09
|
|
|
If you're starting afresh go for one of the Vallejo air lines with badger primer. Model air for realistic stuff Game air for fantasy stuff Realistically you'll end up wanting stuff from all the ranges but those are a good place to start.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 05:12
|
|
|
Reaper are also really good airbrush paints, while also working great for brushing. They've become my favorite, though I also love my Vallejo airs.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 13:18
|
|
|
goodness posted:Now the impossible task of picking a paint for my soon to be here patriot. P3 and Citadel (and Vallejo) work fine in an airbrush - no need to buy airbrush specific when you have perfectly good paints available. I don't see the point of paying the same amount for a bottle of paint that's been thinned - you're paying for half the paint and a bunch of airbrush medium. I've transferred all my GW to dropper bottles to make transferring to the airbrush cup easier though. I eyeball a 50/50 mix of paint (or thereabouts) and Les Bursley's airbrush thinner (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoKJUrISnTo) and have had no issues (unless you count lovely Army Painter problems.) For the record, I'm also doing 6mm.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 13:27
|
|
|
Tamiya has a limited line since they're more for vehicle model kits, but they spray very cleanly, and since they're formulated differently from most acrylics they tend to be a bit more resistant to washes. Future is really handy for thinning paints that dont have their own thinner.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 14:45
|
|
|
TTerrible posted:If you're starting afresh go for one of the Vallejo air lines with badger primer. This is good, but you should also look into Scale 75. Those paints rule!
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 16:08
|
|
|
goodness posted:Got rid of all my modelling supplies when I sold my models last, so I'm pretty much starting from scratch with this airbrush gear. You never "quit", you only ever "stop".
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 17:42
|
|
|
I put together a video tutorial to show off my technique for heat staining - it's a neat little trick to use on gun barrels, engines, or what have you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyCvocLy9Wo
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 18:00
|
|
|
SRM posted:I put together a video tutorial to show off my technique for heat staining - it's a neat little trick to use on gun barrels, engines, or what have you:
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 19:00
|
|
|
That GW texture paint is pretty decent, though it does take some getting used to. A thinned down wash really brings out the detail. Here are a few quick basing experiments: An old Tomb Spyder I had laying around. It's a giant bone scarab construct now. Just Armageddon Dunes and a drybrysh of Vallejo Desert yellow.  Thinned down wash on this one, looks much better.  My finished alchemist.  Unrelated to the basing, I just like this image. The slight overexposure(?) works with the super-bright highlighting I was trying out. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 19:05
|
|
|
Lord_Hambrose posted:This is good, but you should also look into Scale 75. Those paints rule! If you're just starting, scale75 paints can be frustrating. They're super thick and tend to turn into a gloopy mess in my badger 105 that takes ages to clean out compared to vallejo airs and reaper paints. And that's with copious amounts of airbrush thinner and flow improver. They look pretty awesome though, some of the shades are unlike anything else in my massive collection of paints and I love them. I have the normal set but want to get the fantasy set as well.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 20:37
|
|
|
Hey look, a shiny dudeman painted. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 20:54
|
|
|
Groetgaffel posted:When are you going to do the barrel-drilling tutorial? I didn't feel like busting out my power drill because it's the only thing with a bore large enough for a multimelta.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 22:41
|
|
|
SRM posted:I didn't feel like busting out my power drill because it's the only thing with a bore large enough for a multimelta. I recently got one of these things. It's been great for drilling bigger holes in plastic for magnets and such.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 23:08
|
|
|
Yeah, a pin vice is a really valuable modelling tool. The better ones let you drill out larger diameter holes like Bucnasti mentioned
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2017 23:10
|
|
|
SRM posted:I put together a video tutorial to show off my technique for heat staining - it's a neat little trick to use on gun barrels, engines, or what have you: The thing I've really been appreciating about your videos is the professional quality of the editing and VO work, and this was your best one yet. (Heat staining is one of my favorite effects, so I might be a bit prejudiced.) Where did you get the rotating display base?
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2017 01:07
|
|
|
Any use Martian Ironcrust and washed it? Curious to see what results you get with which washes.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2017 06:47
|
|
|
For me, the worst thin about drilling barrels is centering the hole. It always ends up slightly skewed, and it's driving me crazy.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2017 06:53
|
|
|
Use your hobby knife to mark the center, then drill a smaller-than-necessary pilot hole, fix up the centering as needed with your knife again, and finally drill the real hole.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2017 06:57
|
|
|
Use a pin to create a small divot in the center. Without it the bit spins out of the center before finally biting into the plastic and will be off center.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2017 06:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 21:28 |
|
|
Yeah, I'm doing the marking, but I'm somehow managing to gently caress it up anyways. I haven't tried two stages like Dentist suggests, that sounds like a good solution.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2017 07:05
|
|