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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Amazon has tons of products like this one, so I'm kind of wondering what their use case is now. Presumably the chuck itself can survive the impact action, but what about the bit in the chuck? To get you out of a pinch maybe? They will make anything in China. Its a loveless marriage for the reasons listed above. I will concede that the more your work will be limited to hanging pictures and doing fine woodworking, the more a drill driver makes sense over an impact. The more you actually need to build construction projects, the more the impact makes sense. With that said, I use my impact (Makita DTD147) for any kind of screws in any material. On the lowest power setting it is very controllable and doesn't even engage the impact mechanism in soft wood materials, and the trigger is variable speed, so I have zero issue with driving the head to the correct depth. e: while I have all kinds of bits (I live in a house from 1880, so all kinds of fasteners used here) I only buy torx screws. Don't need unnecessary grief. Rnr fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Oct 3, 2017 |
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Oct 3, 2017 21:35
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Bad Munki posted:1) Make sure you're using the right size bit for the screw head you're driving. If it's torx, that' easy, but you can sometimes accidentally grab an undersized bit and that'll strip poo poo fast. Philips even more so, as those are literally designed to cam out. quote:6) Just, like, stop driving the screw when it's at the depth it needs to be? The thing about an impact driver is that it's not going to torque out like a traditional driver might, especially the torque-limiting ones...if you're driving into sensitive material and don't have a lot of screw buried in the material, you really need to be careful, even with a handheld manual driver! Don't use your impact driver to install #8x3/4" screws in pine, that's not going to work. Do use your impact driver to install 3" decking screws in 2x8s, and to tighten 3/8-16 nuts onto bolts.
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Oct 3, 2017 22:13
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Erwin posted:I'm used to just pulling the trigger until the drill stops (i.e. the clutch slips) and then moving on. I just do it until I strip the screw. 
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Oct 3, 2017 22:56
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The most important lesson with an impact driver is that the trigger is not an on-off switch, and sneaking up on "tight enough" is not a matter of on-off-on-off-on-off blips.
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Oct 3, 2017 23:11
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Erwin posted:The problem I have with the impact drive is not at all stripping the screw head, it's destroying the wood I'm screwing into.
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Oct 4, 2017 01:09
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Are you doofuses mistaking impact wrenches for impact drivers? I could probably use mine to tighten eyeglass screws without stripping them if I had a bit that small. It spins at like 20 rpms at the lowest speed.
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Oct 4, 2017 02:20
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Make love when you screw.
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Oct 4, 2017 02:20
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OSU_Matthew posted:Right... It's just that it didn't work out like I had hoped in my mind for straight level cuts. Like, it just doesn't clamp at a perpendicular angle without a ton of fuss. Depending on the cut you're trying to make, something like the kreg jig rip cut attachment is a much better buy: It's about $21.99 for the item, $2.80 for a processing fee, and then shipping to my zip code was going to be another $6, all together it was going to be about $31 for me to get one but I think I will continue to suffer the old fashioned way a little longer.
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Oct 4, 2017 02:26
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Bad Munki posted:Make love when you screw. New thread title mods!!!
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Oct 4, 2017 03:36
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lwoodio posted:Are you doofuses mistaking impact wrenches for impact drivers? I could probably use mine to tighten eyeglass screws without stripping them if I had a bit that small. It spins at like 20 rpms at the lowest speed. Yeah I don't understand the issue. Just let off the trigger to slow the impacting and sneak up on the depth of sinking the screw. It's way easier for me to drive screws into drywall with my impact driver than my drill
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Oct 4, 2017 04:08
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When you get really good you can even use the driver's momentum at full speed to set the screw exactly where you want it without having to slow down at the end. But yeah, the trigger on my dewalt let's me drive things at 20 rpm if I want to. Don't overdrive things and you will be fine.
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Oct 4, 2017 04:12
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Also, pre-drilling is still necessary in smaller pieces of wood. Or use Spax.
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Oct 4, 2017 11:41
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I always predrill holes in any kind of wood I give a poo poo about. Takes a few seconds and means the wood will never split on me, and it makes driving the screw substantially easier. The only kind of wood I won't predrill is plywood, only because I've never had it split out on me.
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Oct 5, 2017 09:11
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Machaon posted:Might be a stupid question, but does anyone have experience buying crap from JB Tools? They've got some (apparently) rare stuff I've been wanting to get, but I've never heard of them. Are they reputable? Do they take for fuckin' ever to ship stuff? Do they say they have stuff, and then they don't? You know, that sort of poo poo. Hi, you probably don't remember me but I posted this crap about a month ago. Four days shy of a month to be exact, and I just got the poo poo I ordered today. At about the two week mark I sent a message to them to try and find out what was taking so long, and they said that their supplier was out of one of the things I ordered and didn't tell them. They also said they shipped the stuff from the manufacturer that day. That was, not this past Monday, but the one before that. If you qualify for the free shipping and go for it they must use the slowest goddamn method possible 'cause this poo poo came from NC. I was assuming at this point they musta shipped it from Taiwan where it's made. Thing is, they don't give you any kind of tracking information or anything. They didn't even send an email saying they had shipped the stuff. That's standard stuff from anywhere. Only way I knew it was shipped was when I looked at the order status. Thing is though, it said it's status was "shipped" even when it wasn't. That leads me to believe their supplier told them it was and they took their word for it. Which would mean they may not even have a shipping number. Seems like JB Tools is just a mid point between the supplier, (which they're at the mercy of) and buyer, and the supplier just don't give a gently caress. So, uh, yeah. I don't know about these guys.
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Oct 5, 2017 22:09
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My table saw is a cheap piece of crap and it's incredibly loud, but my main concern are that it makes some grinding noises especially when spinning down. Does this sound like an issue with the motor or just a regular 26 year old Taiwanese table saw? I'm tempted to possibly attempt to replace the bearings in the motor (if thats even possible) or maybe find a good circular saw from a pawn shop to make my own table saw instead, it might be slightly better than the current saw. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YjrXnhwAhwA
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Oct 6, 2017 18:34
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Got my grandfather's old compressor mainly finished. I took the motor apart and cleaned it up. I put new bushings in it, had a few stuck brushes, and had to rewire the leads because the insulation was shot. I scrubbed the compressor down, drained it of oil, and put new gasket material on the side panels. I hit it with a wire brush to clean all the loose paint off of it, and then primed and painted it. I wire brushed the tank, primed and painted it. I still want to put a coat of clear on it for UV protection, but it's essentially done. My old man came by and told me the history. My grandfather worked for DX gas, before it went to Sun Oil (and then became Sunoco). They were building a new service station here in the 50s. It was all done, they were working on the finishing. A storm rolled in to town, and they backed the truck with the drywall into the bay, bumped the compressor, and knocked it over. It fell on the pulley and bent the shaft. The owner told my grandfather to take it to the scrapyard and bring the check back and that they'd put that into petty cash. He took it in, and the have him the scrap price of $6. My grandfather gave the scrap yard the $6 and got them to give him the receipt and a check. He then took it to a machinist he knew and got him to rebuild the pump. It has a little wobble on the end of the shaft, but it's perfect between the bearings. I'm excited to get this working again. 
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Oct 7, 2017 20:55
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EvilBeard posted:Got my grandfather's old compressor mainly finished. Do you have good health insurance?
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Oct 7, 2017 21:24
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EvilBeard posted:I wire brushed the tank, primed and painted it. I still want to put a coat of clear on it for UV protection, but it's essentially done. JFC that tank needs to be hydro'd. And it will fail. Do not use that tank.
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Oct 7, 2017 21:56
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Motronic posted:JFC that tank needs to be hydro'd. And it will fail. It has been hydro'd to 200 psi, which is what it was originally rated. The pump doesn't go above 175 psi. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Oct 7, 2017 |
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Oct 7, 2017 22:35
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EvilBeard posted:It has been hydro'd to 200 psi, which is what it was originally rated. The pump doesn't go above 175 psi. I'm impressed (that you had it done) and surprised (that is passed). As long as it's not gonna make shrapnel I suppose you're good to go. Looks like a great project. The 50s pressure tank just made my rear end pucker.
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Oct 7, 2017 23:26
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Motronic posted:I'm impressed (that you had it done) and surprised (that is passed). As long as it's not gonna make shrapnel I suppose you're good to go. Yeah, I took it to my local welding gas supplier, they tested it for me, and while I was at it I had them do the annual on my scuba tanks.
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Oct 7, 2017 23:37
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EvilBeard posted:It has been hydro'd to 200 psi, which is what it was originally rated. The pump doesn't go above 175 psi. I wouldn't fill it past 130. Standard operating procedure is to pass a hydro test 50% higher than max working pressure.
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Oct 7, 2017 23:37
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lwoodio posted:I wouldn't fill it past 130. Standard operating procedure is to pass a hydro test 50% higher than max working pressure. I'm assuming passed 200 meant tested to 400 here, because that's how this usually goes.
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Oct 7, 2017 23:49
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EvilBeard posted:Got my grandfather's old compressor mainly finished. I took the motor apart and cleaned it up. I put new bushings in it, had a few stuck brushes, and had to rewire the leads because the insulation was shot. The color is perfect. If you could find one of those old Sunoco station logos (you probably can for about 5 bills on ebay erk), you'd be rolling in tall cotton.
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Oct 8, 2017 00:41
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Motronic posted:I'm assuming passed 200 meant tested to 400 here, because that's how this usually goes. Yeah, they took it to above 200, so it's rated for a working pressure of 200. I'm assuming they went to 400, we do 250% on our pressure vessels in our plant, but that's excessive.
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Oct 8, 2017 00:51
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I gotta say, that's probably the first time I've ever seen a DIY thing on the internet where the guy did all the safety checks correctly before the peanut gallery even had a chance to pick it apart.
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Oct 9, 2017 00:53
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Sagebrush posted:I gotta say, that's probably the first time I've ever seen a DIY thing on the internet where the guy did all the safety checks correctly before the peanut gallery even had a chance to pick it apart. I'm an industrial maintenance technician with over 15 years of experience. I'd like to think I have a little competence. I would've just taken it to work and done the checks there, but they kinda frown on that stuff. So I took it and had it done. A little extra out of my pocket, but you gotta do what you gotta do.
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Oct 9, 2017 01:01
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Sagebrush posted:I gotta say, that's probably the first time I've ever seen a DIY thing on the internet where the guy did all the safety checks correctly before the peanut gallery even had a chance to pick it apart. Me too, which is why I'm one of those guys calling poo poo out. EvilBeard posted:I'm an industrial maintenance technician Did not specify exemption before posting. Of course you get it.
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Oct 9, 2017 01:26
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I'd like one of those circular saw guides that kreg makes - is there a cheaper alternative?
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Oct 9, 2017 03:25
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A straight edge and a couple clamps?
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Oct 9, 2017 03:32
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Bad Munki posted:A straight edge and a couple 4d nails? Tack 'em Jimmy
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Oct 9, 2017 14:48
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moron izzard posted:I'd like one of those circular saw guides that kreg makes - is there a cheaper alternative? I have a Kreg Rip-Cut and I love it, if that's the one you're asking about. Worth the $40.
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Oct 9, 2017 15:34
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Zahgaegun posted:I have a Kreg Rip-Cut and I love it, if that's the one you're asking about. Worth the $40. That's the thing about Kreg stuff--outrageously expensive, but drat if it doesn't wind up being worth it almost immediately. 100$ for this lovely plastic drill guide and a few screws? My only regret is that I didn't buy one sooner 
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Oct 11, 2017 03:55
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Zahgaegun posted:I have a Kreg Rip-Cut and I love it, if that's the one you're asking about. Worth the $40. I'm genuinely curious what you love about this. All the kreg stuff seems like overpriced plastic to me. Pocket hole jig obviously fills a niche, but what does their rip cut guide do that can't be accomplished more precisely and cheaply with a couple of pieces of wood glued together?
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Oct 11, 2017 15:09
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TheBananaKing posted:I'm genuinely curious what you love about this. All the kreg stuff seems like overpriced plastic to me. Pocket hole jig obviously fills a niche, but what does their rip cut guide do that can't be accomplished more precisely and cheaply with a couple of pieces of wood glued together? It's a lightweight, self-contained system for ripping boards of varying sizes with good precision and can be taught to others quickly. Yes, there are plastic components but not all plastic is Happy Meal quality. It's a quality product and designed well. If you can recognize a niche for the PHJ then the rip-cut is just filling a different niche. Might be one you don't have a need for.
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Oct 11, 2017 15:54
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TheBananaKing posted:I'm genuinely curious what you love about this. All the kreg stuff seems like overpriced plastic to me. Pocket hole jig obviously fills a niche, but what does their rip cut guide do that can't be accomplished more precisely and cheaply with a couple of pieces of wood glued together? It's accurately square, adjustable and easy to attach/detach from the saw. I'd say if one were so inclined to build one themselves they probably could do so and I wouldn't dissaude them, but if they weren't then its a perfectly reasonable expense. I mean it's what, $30? It could only be so "overpriced", especially depending on how much you value your time and effort in DIYing a solution of your own with similar accuracy. e: I mean, why by any kind of jig if you are Matthias Wandel? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pAjlTSt660 Or why buy any tools for anything ever if you are this guy? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxjkI0wYcbI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lb17YiUi43A Hubis fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Oct 12, 2017 |
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Oct 12, 2017 14:46
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TheBananaKing posted:I'm genuinely curious what you love about this. All the kreg stuff seems like overpriced plastic to me. Pocket hole jig obviously fills a niche, but what does their rip cut guide do that can't be accomplished more precisely and cheaply with a couple of pieces of wood glued together? Just try one Kreg thing once, just once, and you'll understand. Like the shelf pin jig? Holy poo poo that thing is a lifesaver if you're doing built in shelving. Every little detail is thought out well, and it's honestly a joy to use their tools. Sure you could fuss and gently caress around aligning poo poo and triple measuring for ten minutes or so on each cut, or, you could just set it, zip it, and fuhgettaboudit. For poo poo that just works, and works drat well? Worth every penny. That's what you're paying for, not the material. Not all of us have enough time or space to dedicate a woodshop with poo poo like a mortising machine and stuff, and Kreg tools fill that useful niche for your weekend hobbyist woodworker who just wants to get poo poo done. Good tools free you from banal, frustrating, fiddly tasks and that's what Kreg jigs do.
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Oct 13, 2017 13:55
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Not really a tool, but whatever. Im getting a free safe and am trying to estimate the weight. Anyone have any ideas? I have the equipment to move it, am just worried its too heavy for where I want to put it. 
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Oct 13, 2017 14:25
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I need something better than the death wheel for cutting steel tubing. Considering this Horror Fright portaband, to mostly clamp in a vise and use as a table bandsaw, but portable because ... I may need it somewhere else at some point. https://www.harborfreight.com/10-amp-deep-cut-variable-speed-band-saw-kit-63444.html Aside from "never buy a thing that plugs in from there (my HF angle grinder is going strong after quite a bit of use, and gets less hot than my Makita), is there any reason I shouldn't? Also is there anything easier to get than muriatic acid to get the zinc off a galvanized thing and/or can you just weld it with a standard painter's gas mask? Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 14:30 on Oct 13, 2017 |
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Oct 13, 2017 14:27
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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iForge posted:Not really a tool, but whatever. Im getting a free safe and am trying to estimate the weight. Anyone have any ideas? I have the equipment to move it, am just worried its too heavy for where I want to put it. You're probably fine if it's a concrete slab. It's no more than a few linebackers players standing close. Can't you look up the model of the safe? Usually it has a plate on the door that indicates it's UL rating and the model info will be close by. It looks a lot like a USPS mail safe.
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Oct 13, 2017 15:25
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