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Crustashio posted:Well the new racecar almost lasted a season. What province are you located in again? I grab parts at Perry in Laval often enough, they're a good shop.
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Oct 10, 2017 00:57
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BraveUlysses posted:is it a built motor? No, just a stock B16. Seemed like a strong motor, didn't smoke and barely consumed oil. TrueChaos posted:What province are you located in again? I grab parts at Perry in Laval often enough, they're a good shop. NS.
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Oct 10, 2017 00:59
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Terrible SE30 stuff. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9NhfM9nv04
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Oct 10, 2017 01:28
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Alright guys, NJMP this weekend. #323, yellow miata running at the back of DE2. Stop by and say hi! Or just take a point-by!
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Oct 13, 2017 17:34
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Gingerman Gridlife HPDE (beginner) track day report: My second HPDE, first at gingerman raceway. The track is challenging and the lines are not obvious, but it felt very safe. Tons of runoff room pretty much everywhere! In the beginner HPDE, we get 4 x 20 minute sessions per day. My car: FiST mountune MRX turbo (gtx2554) turbo back exhaust e30 tune Firehawk 205 width tires hawk DTC-60 pads and upgraded fluid Saturday, general driver meeting and beginners get to meet their instructors. We had the luxury of an instructor in our car for every session for both days. Session 1: It rained all morning and the track was still very damp. I still turned off traction control, and got to it. Instructor started showing me the line and generally speaking the car was pretty stable through most of the track. However a handful of the slower corners had some damp areas and probably some oil and junk on the surface. I got the car a little sideways a few times but was able to correct with countersteering. A few other beginners spun out, no damage to any cars just a few bruised egos I assume. This session was full yellow and was pretty slow all round. Session 2 and 3: First open sessions with passing (in the 3 straights only). I learned that I am really bad at corner entry on a lot of this track...lots of difficult to read areas that are best apexed late, especially in a front wheel drive car. That being said, I started to get the hang of some of the lines and the general speed of the track. I struggled putting power down leaving corners, with 250 whp, no LSD, and 340tw tires. Speaking of tires, I had them at too high pressure and put some skinny wear on them as a result. That being said, I had a blast being able to reel in or at least stay with every other car in the group on the straights, other than a pesky M4 and my buddies heavily modified VW GLI. Sesion 4: I skipped it, after session 3 I was hit with a brutally bad headache and just general malaise. I hadnt slept well the night before and it caught up. Sunday: Looser instruction and refinement of lines Sessions 1-4: My instructor was very happy with my commitment to getting a handful of corners that I struggled with on Saturday right this time. The double apex I kept blowing exit on was the one I spent all night thinking about, and I drastically improved this time around. My fastest lap was a 1:57 (instructor had a timer in his pocket, I had no idea 'til the session was over). I think with properly inflated tires and another 2 days of sessions, I could be WAY faster than that. I was really starting to crack the code towards the end of the day. Thoughts on the car: My car is a street car, and I spent most of my time and money making it faster in a straight line. To track it seriously next year, I need a few things: Radiator upgrade: After 4-5 laps, I saw coolant at 240+, and oil at 260+. Thats just too hot for long term reliability. The FiST has a oil/coolant exchanger plate, so a radiator will drop my oil temps somewhat too. Brake upgrade: stock calipers held up OK, but I started to cut sessions a lap short on the second day to conserve the car. I think a BBK is in my future. Camber: The car doesnt have a ton of options to increase negative camber, but I think I can get 2.5-3 at max using camber bolts in the front. The back is another story... Real tires: Assuming I stay with 16" wheels, Ill probably go 205/45/16 in the R-S4. Those tires + more camber should hopefully help me get the power down easier.
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Oct 14, 2017 02:16
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Yeah, be careful with the Firehawk if you're tracking them and don't have the ability to add enough camber to stay off the outside edge. The edges feather real quick and will bald in a day or two. Great, great, great cheap street tire... but don't track them if you aren't one of the slow people (you know what I mean).
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Oct 14, 2017 02:24
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BlackMK4 posted:Yeah, be careful with the Firehawk if you're tracking them and don't have the ability to add enough camber to stay off the outside edge. The edges feather real quick and will bald in a day or two. Great, great, great cheap street tire... but don't track them if you aren't one of the slow people (you know what I mean). Well the good news is that I wore them in a pretty skinny line, probably a good 1/4" off the wear triangle because of having them over-inflated the first day. But yeah I will keep that in mind, I am running stock camber but I will get the camber bolts and an alignment before spring.
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Oct 14, 2017 02:33
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60VFdqhkwSY Have a race video where I gently caress up and make the race about out of class traffic management against a driver who is better at it than I am.
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Oct 14, 2017 02:44
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Too many people me included go for big brake kit when they really don't need it. Get a set of dedicated track pads and run high temp 'racing' fluid. Good pads will make a world of difference and will compliment the stickier tires. Not saying big brake isn't fun or is never a good idea but generally on a stockish car better pads and some ducting are more than enough.
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Oct 14, 2017 10:40
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 Absolutely without a doubt 100% one of the sketchiest moments of my life. Entered the top of the fox hole relatively quickly. Spotted a written off cayman in the gravel far too late. Hit the fluid and grass/mud and completely lost the backend. Held it on the lock stops and managed to miss the barrier after jumping the kerb and driving over the wheel the cayman lost. Got out of the way enough to stop and jump the barrier. 2 guys left in ambulances and 4 out of 5 of the cars left on flatbeds. Assuming I’ll find some damage when I get it on a ramp but feeling crazy thankful at the moment. Just insane. Genuinely can’t believe it. The 2 cars behind me ended up in the barriers and must have missed me by a couple of inches. gently caress. Watch the slo mo carefully. The second cayman literally flips over the top of the first. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=luvAklORVe4&feature=youtu.be E: Some aftermath too: https://youtu.be/ZGQgd6I9Az0 Bape Culture fucked around with this message at 11:20 on Oct 14, 2017 |
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Oct 14, 2017 11:16
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NitroSpazzz posted:Too many people me included go for big brake kit when they really don't need it. Get a set of dedicated track pads and run high temp 'racing' fluid. Good pads will make a world of difference and will compliment the stickier tires. Big brakes are largely (heh) there to offer better pad life due to single piston floating calipers trapezoiding pads. Also, you really seem into buying things. You should focus more on seat time. (also you're going to learn that constantly juggling heat management and having mechanical failures isn't fun)
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Oct 14, 2017 14:59
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DTC60 should be a good pad. You're probably not actually hitting its limits unless the FiST has tiny rotors, which almost nothing does nowadays. Unless you're actually getting a long pedal or actually burning up pads in a day, don't worry about it yet.
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Oct 14, 2017 15:02
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I had some fluid outside the reservoir and the pedal did indeed get a little longer towards the end of sessions. The stock fist overheats it's brakes because of torque vectoring, add 80 more whp and torque and I think my concern is warranted. Outside of an LSD install, the engine computer is adding a lot of extra heat to my brakes. Edit: The Nurburgring is terrifying. Glad you're in one piece. PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 15:48 on Oct 14, 2017 |
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Oct 14, 2017 15:40
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Bape Culture posted:
glad you and your car are ok m8
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Oct 14, 2017 16:02
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Bape Culture posted:
 Glad you made it out with the car in one piecePaintVagrant posted:I had some fluid outside the reservoir and the pedal did indeed get a little longer towards the end of sessions. The stock fist overheats it's brakes because of torque vectoring, add 80 more whp and torque and I think my concern is warranted. Outside of an LSD install, the engine computer is adding a lot of extra heat to my brakes.
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Oct 14, 2017 16:04
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NitroSpazzz posted:
I did, was running DTC-60s and ATE Typ 200 
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Oct 14, 2017 16:19
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Pretty sure motul rbf600 has a higher boiling temp which sounds like your main issue. I assume that even with bigger brakes the stupid torque vectoring is going to hurt you. Any way to disable it?
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Oct 14, 2017 16:39
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Larrymer posted:Pretty sure motul rbf600 has a higher boiling temp which sounds like your main issue. I assume that even with bigger brakes the stupid torque vectoring is going to hurt you. Any way to disable it? Buy and install an LSD Apparently without doing some serious shenanigans with Fords scantool, there is no disabling the TVC. The fuse for it also controls ABS I believe. I will probably try RBF600 next time, I am just pre-gaming for next season at this point.
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Oct 14, 2017 16:57
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Try turning down the boost.
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Oct 14, 2017 17:05
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Bape Culture posted:
loving hell, this is why I'm incredibly hesitant to even try a touristenfahrten session. I don't think my wallet could cope if something went wrong, maybe in a rental with insurance.
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Oct 14, 2017 17:13
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Phone posted:Try turning down the boost. Where is the fun in that?
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Oct 14, 2017 17:16
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PaintVagrant posted:Where is the fun in that? I'm not a massive fan of working in the paddock.
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Oct 14, 2017 17:40
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Fair point. I was very happy to not break anything and drive the car home (3.5 hours) after the weekend. I am confident that better throttle control and apexing later will give better results for me as far as corner exit wheelspin, just need to put it all together mentally. It wasn't until towards the end of the second day that I felt like my CPU wasn't pegged at 100% the entire time in the car.
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Oct 14, 2017 18:20
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Ugh, torque vectoring. Well, Motul and ducts are worth a try - I feel like that might get you more than a lot of BBKs would.
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Oct 14, 2017 18:29
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mekilljoydammit posted:Ugh, torque vectoring. Well, Motul and ducts are worth a try - I feel like that might get you more than a lot of BBKs would. Ducting is something I want to explore, you are definitely onto something there. Not a ton of "bolt-on" options so I will have to tinker a bit.
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Oct 14, 2017 18:33
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PaintVagrant posted:I did, was running DTC-60s and ATE Typ 200 PaintVagrant posted:The fuse for it also controls ABS I believe. Otherwise BBK and LSD 
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Oct 14, 2017 19:52
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NitroSpazzz posted:Sorry missed that if you said it earlier. Next step would be ducting as mekilljoydammit said, that helped a ton on previous cars. Not even direct ducting (hose/shrouds) on my first E30 went from boiling fluid after 1-2 hard laps to getting 5+ before pedal started to get soft and at that point everything else was complaining. Is pointing the ducting down the width of the rotor (shooting air into the channels) an OK second option to routing a hose to the backplate and shooting it straight on the rotor? Ive read a ton of contradictory poo poo about brake ducting.
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Oct 14, 2017 19:55
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PaintVagrant posted:Is pointing the ducting down the width of the rotor (shooting air into the channels) an OK second option to routing a hose to the backplate and shooting it straight on the rotor? Ive read a ton of contradictory poo poo about brake ducting. Think of vented rotors as pumps - they want to feed from the inside and sling air to the outside. Working with that helps, fighting that helps less. *edit* http://fiestast.net/threads/my-brake-ducts-build.2251/ looks pretty reasonable - ideal world you want to have a sealed thing against the middle of the rotor instead of the hose pointing at it, but we don't live in the ideal world. mekilljoydammit fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Oct 14, 2017 |
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Oct 14, 2017 19:58
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mekilljoydammit posted:Think of vented rotors as pumps - they want to feed from the inside and sling air to the outside. Working with that helps, fighting that helps less. Ah yeah. That makes sense. So if I had my choice, where would I be directing air? At the tophat?
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Oct 14, 2017 19:59
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PaintVagrant posted:Ah yeah. That makes sense. So if I had my choice, where would I be directing air? At the tophat? Yup. Most ideal is a thingies to make it so all the air is forced through the rotor vents like http://store.kennybrown.com/files/05%20Mustang%20Brake%20Duct.JPG but that's often a pain to actually do. Pretty good is the hose just pointing like that.
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Oct 14, 2017 20:11
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Bape Culture posted:
That's called Aremberg you heathen!! Glad you got out of it mostly safely/avoided destroying the M3 at least... you were just behind the white car in the video?
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Oct 14, 2017 20:13
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mekilljoydammit posted:Think of vented rotors as pumps - they want to feed from the inside and sling air to the outside. Working with that helps, fighting that helps less. I always want to be more racecar and now I want this. I love functionality.
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Oct 14, 2017 20:21
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Ducting is definitely cheaper than a BBK, I'll put that on my list for spring 
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Oct 14, 2017 21:17
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Bape Culture posted:
Jesus Christ man, glad you're ok. Hope the car isn't too dinged up.
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Oct 14, 2017 21:17
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Yeah directing some air at the back of the center of the rotor is the way to do it. Sometimes just a little scoop/deflector attached to the control arm works- we would bolt little things to the endlink mount on evos and it helped. Even slight changes to the front end aero like fender vents, canards, or a front diffuser/splitter can help get air across the rotor. Oh, and i can get some focus and fiesta parts including pads, rotors, bbks, so if you're looking for something send me a pm.
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Oct 14, 2017 23:17
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WTAC 2017 was ran this weekend and this was the first time I followed it closely, motivated by two local competitors making the trip to Sydney. One of them has an Audi R8 with lots of power. He finished 3rd in Pro Am with a 1:29. MCA S13 won the overall with a 1:20. While there surely is a lot to be gained with better aero, driver, setup and track familiarity, the Audi guys were having trouble with overheating tyres the whole weekend. Looking at the minimum weight and tyre width regulations for the WTAC, it seems to me that the R8 is a wrong choice of platform to begin with for the WTAC. In WTAC the tyre is Yokohama A050 and the maximum width depends on FWD/RWD/AWD and vehicle weight. Minimum weight of the vehicle is the factory weight -20% or 1200 kg, whichever is lower. For the R8 it is 1200 kg. To me it seems that the game in WTAC is to increase increase/balance power and aero until the tyre heat management becomes the limiting factor. Based on the tyre width and weight table below, the winning recipe seems to be a 901 kg RWD car. 
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Oct 15, 2017 07:41
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Bape Culture posted:
I've only done four laps on the ring in a rented Scirroco R, and on the fourth one I hit oil turning into Eschbach (just before youtube corner), went sideways across the track and barely managed to save it. One of the guys behind me on a motorcycle didn't and ended up in the hospital. Now that I've been I can't understand how someone could show up for a touristenfahrten and push the limits of the car. No tech inspections on anything, poor visibility, few active corner stations, seriously gently caress that.* * Totally worth it would go again. Just... a little more slowly.
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Oct 16, 2017 15:34
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Bape Culture posted:
I genuinely am glad you are OK and that I hope this will help you buy more safety gear. Can't tell what is in your M3 but the link/vid (which I'm assuming isn't you) shows harness without a HANS and an open face helmet... yeesh. -- NJMP Trip report from this weekend: Fn awesome. Got a coach in the car and immediately dropped 3 seconds off my time which was enough to send an E92 M3 off track twice trying to keep up with my stock NA - he packed up and went home afterwards. It's kind of unfortunate people get it in their heads that they have to be able to keep up with a miata in their Vette/M3/STi and end up overdriving to that point. Take it easy guys! So long DE2... time for DE3. 1:42.3 was personal best, SM times were in the 36s. Car weighed 2365 with me in it so it's finally reasonably light but lack of power and Toyo RRs mean I can't expect to do better than a 39.999 (Coach did 41s with me in the car).
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Oct 16, 2017 17:14
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I bet you'll break 39.9 within a year. When I went into red group at HPDEs I was running 2:23-2:22s at VIR. I now run low 2:17s now with nothing more than fresh tires, car setup and better skills. A pro in my car would likely run 2:15s all day. If you have video of VIR feel free to post it and I'll give you pointers.
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Oct 17, 2017 01:10
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Thanks dude! Are you coming to Summit Nov 11-12?
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Oct 17, 2017 15:45
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