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Fo3 posted:I thought I had my ute almost ready for paint. Did some filler after banging out dent. It looks like it's coming along. Bodywork always takes way more time than you think it does. You should pull the light bulb out of the cabin light.
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Oct 12, 2017 15:18
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Those look a LOT like 97-03 F-150 tails.... are they the same?
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Oct 12, 2017 20:12
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Colostomy Bag posted:Thanks. I was actually wondering if you replaced the lower radiator hose with its goofball quicklock. I need to do it, it's original and the old gal needs a flush anyways. Didn't replace it, but pulled it off to fully drain coolant for the flush. Mine only had a regular hose clamp on it that my hose clamp pliers handled no issue. The 98 F150 I did before had that weird quick connect. There should be a metal tab on the bottom of it that you pry back with a flat screwdriver and rotate the hose 45 degrees and it pulls off (depending on how much gunk has cemented it in place.)
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Oct 12, 2017 20:38
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Those look a LOT like 97-03 F-150 tails.... are they the same? I tried to see if there was any cross reference; I didn't see anything immediately. I did find this however: https://www.carparts2u.com.au/files/detail.php?id=9395
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Oct 12, 2017 20:44
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That's a lot more reasonable. If Amazon Australia is anything like Amazon US, they'll probably be a decent source as well. I ran across a video of someone that swapped Australian Falcon tails onto a US F-150, apparently they're pretty similar, with the Falcon units being a bit deeper? The ones he used had separate amber turn signals though, instead of the combined stop/signal, so it was a lot more involved than just swapping the housings (wiring changes required). But it does look like they swap without modifying (visible parts of) the body. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MlGQcEbJeg
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Oct 12, 2017 22:17
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Super duty taillights all the way up to 2016 would probably also fit with a little modification. Give you a unique yet stock look. shipping to Australia would probably be killer though.
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Oct 12, 2017 23:04
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zharmad posted:Didn't replace it, but pulled it off to fully drain coolant for the flush. Mine only had a regular hose clamp on it that my hose clamp pliers handled no issue. The 98 F150 I did before had that weird quick connect. There should be a metal tab on the bottom of it that you pry back with a flat screwdriver and rotate the hose 45 degrees and it pulls off (depending on how much gunk has cemented it in place.) Mucho thanks. For the longest time no one made the replacement for the t-shaped bastard but on Rockauto they show a ton of different ones now. But like everything else and what you said, I'm assuming it will be cemented in place. Also need to do a power steering flush. Why couldn't the drat return line be on top of the reservoir instead of the bottom?
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Oct 12, 2017 23:34
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C-Bangin' it 
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Powershift posted:Super duty taillights all the way up to 2016 would probably also fit with a little modification. Give you a unique yet stock look. shipping to Australia would probably be killer though. For some reason I always thought the super duty lights were a bit bigger, but google is suggesting 99-07 SD lights are a direct swap. Surprised I haven't ever seen (or at least noticed) that swap. I mean, this is Texas, there's a lot of trucks. 
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Oct 13, 2017 03:19
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:For some reason I always thought the super duty lights were a bit bigger, but google is suggesting 99-07 SD lights are a direct swap. This might really gently caress with you then. The tailgates were the same back then too. A tailgate off a 1997 f-150 will fit straight onto a 2016 F350 and visa versa. I have a 2015 F350 box on my 1999 F250, with the 1999 F250 tailgate, and could have used the 1999 taillights except the 2015 box had a bar in the middle that wasn't there on the old boxes, so 2015 F350 taillights would fit in an 1997 F150 with very little modification. Such minor changes can end up looing so alien. 
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Oct 13, 2017 05:14
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That doesn't surprise me. I used to have a 1980 (early 5th gen), and my stepdad had a 1992 (early 7th gen) at the same time. The tail gates and lights were a straight swap between them. Aftermarket stuff that I tried swapping (toolbox, headache rack, bed caps) were all straight swaps. Apparently the front clip is a fairly easy swap too. I wouldn't be surprised if the 8th gen front clip would be able to go on a 5th gen. e: he still has an F-150, though he stepped up to a 2001 in... 2004 or so I think. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Oct 13, 2017 |
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Oct 13, 2017 05:23
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It looks like it's coming along. Bodywork always takes way more time than you think it does. You should pull the light bulb out of the cabin light. Yeah, I should have pulled the globe but I hate removing interior plastics, usually a 30% chance of my clumsiness breaking plastics and that gets closer to 100% when dealing with something heated by millions of light globe heat cycles. Good news is the battery started taking a charge, but who knows how long it will last as it got down to 1.8V. Also I went to a wrecker and got a tail light for $40. Zero luck on the bumper though and I've tried everywhere in Perth. I can get a repro plastic on ebay for $200, but that doesn't help much because it doesn't come with the bracket or reflectors or anything. Plus not worth spending that much when I could replace the whole tub for ~$600. Anyway I drilled out the rivets holding them bumper bracket to the plastic and I've been pounding on the bracket as best I can without a bench,vice or anvil. It's kind of the right shape now, just curvy to get to the mount points rather than proper straight angles. E: I might remount it to the ute and try fix it up more. For the bumper plastic itself I drilled some doles and zip tied it where it's supposed to be and then used a heat gun to soften and move back into shape. Good enough now just need to fill and stick together the crack. So now I need a sandable plastic filler. But I'm looking up sikaflex sealant/adhesive (as I need that to stick back on plastic trims anyway), I wonder if I can use that on the bumper as it seems sandable and paintable? https://2ecffd01e1ab3e9383f0-07db7b9624bbdf022e3b5395236d5cf8.ssl.cf4.rackcdn.com/Product/089e4aaa-b8d0-40b5-bff3-73569e48b3f9.pdf If so it will save me $30 on getting a proper plastic filler bog. As now I need to buy these weird huge rivets for the bumper and also track down a missing bumper reflector. I was hoping not to deal with this if I could have picked up a complete bumper from the wreckers. I wonder if you can buy plastic red reflective sheets I can cut a square out? Otherwise it's $40 for a tiny reflector rectangle Fo3 fucked around with this message at 07:00 on Oct 13, 2017 |
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Oct 13, 2017 06:54
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Would this work? US ebay shows sheets of red reflective vinyl (starting at reasonable prices, seems to target people making signs with a vinyl cutter), but the AU version doesn't, for some reason. I guess you can't buy a vinyl decal cutter on every corner there.  Would that (tape or vinyl in place of the reflector) satisfy local laws, inspections, etc? It wouldn't here, though it would depend on how anal the person you ran across that day (for inspections) was, or how bored the cop was. I've had people pass stuff that should never have passed before, and I've been failed over the weirdest poo poo (weirdest being "your insurance card has today's date on it, I can't accept it, you need to leave before I call the police and report you for having a fake insurance card" - though at least I hadn't handed over any money yet). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Oct 13, 2017 |
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Oct 13, 2017 07:11
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I'm going to see if the auto parts store has any generic ones I can cut down and stick on. The ute starts! Metal bumper bracket bolted on and hammered into better shape as well Got to go out now get some rivets, scrivets, filler, sikaflex and reflector. Also need to get metal jigsaw blades as the first thing I'm going to do once this ute is running is take about 20 a/c coils to the scrap metal place and hopefully get a few hundred to cover re-licensing and rego. I have heaps of a/c coils but they stopped taking them unless the side steel bracket support is cut off. I might look into a sabre saw instead though. E: I found perfect sized generic adhesive reflectors at the local auto parts store for $10. I didn't mind paying that much to have them now. What I did mind was $2ea for scrivets, need to find a cheaper source for them that I can pick up... I'm going to try using sikaflex adhesive sealer on the bumper crack and let it cure overnight. The parts store didn't have any proper plastic filler anyway. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 09:03 on Oct 13, 2017 |
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Oct 13, 2017 07:45
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On the BMW N62B48 engines, the serpentine belt tensioner will contact its pulley with the waterpump pulley and break the WP pulley right at the point you need to move it to get the belt on/off. I found that out earlier this year when I did the coolant pipe fix. Finally got around to replacing the (plastic) pulley today. Boring pulley pic:  More lively pic of when we came out from dinner and noticed someone peeled her front roundel off.. 
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Oct 13, 2017 13:29
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Sucks when idiots rip off roundels and badges. One of the reasons why I didn't want to put a new one on my e34. But my kid wanted me to so I guess I'll take the risk. If it was up to me I'd leave the old faded original roundel on my old dodgey uncle shitbox.Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:That's a lot more reasonable. If Amazon Australia is anything like Amazon US, they'll probably be a decent source as well.  amazon australia. They just sell kindle and apps here, nothing else yet, and lots of sellers on amazon USA won't ship to australia either. I've been having a hard time finding tail lights and bumpers because this is the old well body/styleside tub.The ute in a 05 BA mk2, but was originally a 1 ton cab chassis that had a flat bed tray. The previous owner wanted a styleside/well body to fit a canopy on, so they grabbed the previous 2002 AU model tub to fit as they were cheap and common back then, but it seems nearly all those have been crushed by now so parts are hard to get. This previous 02 AU model has the clear turn signals in the tail lights with the reverse lamp in the bumper. Current models and what this ute is supposed to have is amber turn signal's and clear reversing lights in the tail light like you're thinking, and no lights in the bumper. Which is why I'm having trouble as that's completely different to the 02 AU tub I have. If the ute was an xr, v8 or turbo barra I'd have no hesitation in replacing the whole tub for a period correct later model style and parts would be easier to get as a bonus. But this is just a low km 1 ton workhorse that is handy to have, but also not worth much to sell. So I'll fix it on the cheap and drive it until it dies (or sleep in it or store all my tools in it under the canopy) If I didn't need the canopy for those things I would just chuck a flat tray on it instead and just sell it. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Oct 13, 2017 |
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Oct 13, 2017 15:29
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Those look a LOT like 97-03 F-150 tails.... are they the same?  My Ute 5 by Martin Brummell, on FlickrPlease keeping posting your ute, Fo3, I get happy nostalgic good feels from your pictures. EDIT They're also similar to what I have now, on my 97 Ranger, though not exactly the same. Ford had distinct style going on in the 90's (it was ovals. Just ovals. Always ovals)  1997 Ford Ranger by Martin Brummell, on Flickr(picture from just before I bought it) ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Oct 13, 2017 |
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Oct 13, 2017 16:15
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Those are definitely shared with my 97 F150. They were ~$20 each on Amazon to replace too.
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Oct 13, 2017 16:57
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ExecuDork posted:They're also similar to what I have now, on my 97 Ranger, though not exactly the same. Ford had distinct style going on in the 90's (it was ovals. Just ovals. Always ovals) Late 90s they went from designs that vaguely looked Kia, to something that looked even worse. Look at them! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Taurus_(third_generation) gently caress! The taurus ended up being a flop and gave australia a respite with the falcon, but the AU falcon was ruined too with those influences in the design. Shame because I've owned EL and BA falcons and still like the design. E: Even the EL had the oval grille in the front, and tail lights that you had to get used to, but it was done more tastefully IMO. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Oct 13, 2017 |
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Oct 13, 2017 17:15
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I think 'new edge' was introduced with the Focus and was supposed to fix the 'blob' style from the Taurus. The problem is Ford Australia had just gotten around to redesigning the Falcon into a blob so the panicked and tried to shove some sharp elements into the AU design (remember the grill and headlamps on the base AU at launch). Predictability this looked terrible with all the oval stuff (and they didn't have the budget to change the interior which consisted entirely of ovals)
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Oct 13, 2017 21:24
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Got my seat belts back from safetyrestore.com Pretty happy overall, sent them my assemblies out of my 91 Landcruiser and had them back within a week. Looks like they cleaned up the retracting mechanism too. $150 plus shipping to them for two basically brand new seat belts.  
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Oct 14, 2017 16:54
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Kind of a culmination of a few weeks, but I finally finished a few mods on my car. - New paint (plastidip) - Plastidipped rims - Carbon fiber front lip spoiler - Carbon fiber mirror caps - Carbon fiber rear spoiler - Carbon fiber rear diffuser - Tinted windows - Chip and intake upgrades     Original: 
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Oct 14, 2017 20:41
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savesthedayrocks posted:Got my seat belts back from safetyrestore.com Nice work and you did a good thing. It's not often someone looks at the real important but unglamorous parts of a vehicle. Post likes these sort of plant a seed in our brains and will be remembered as "hey I can do that."
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Oct 14, 2017 20:45
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bEatmstrJ posted:Kind of a culmination of a few weeks, but I finally finished a few mods on my car. WOW. Is that an Autoflex coating?
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Oct 14, 2017 20:47
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Rhyno posted:WOW. Is that an Autoflex coating? Standard plastidip actually. Sprayed in the driveway with the DYC Sprayer. Theres definitely some imperfections but you have to be up pretty close to see them.
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Oct 14, 2017 21:15
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It looks awesome, just wow.
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Oct 14, 2017 21:18
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Why is it is like the mystic purple/green on 90s fords where its pink in the sunlight and orange elsewhere?
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Oct 14, 2017 21:50
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Cage posted:Why is it is like the mystic purple/green on 90s fords where its pink in the sunlight and orange elsewhere? Well, that's on purpose. Its a "color-shift" color, so yes, it changes colors depending on light/angle. Its the "Phoenix" pearl color from plastidip.
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Oct 14, 2017 22:11
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bEatmstrJ posted:Well, that's on purpose. Its a "color-shift" color, so yes, it changes colors depending on light/angle. Its the "Phoenix" pearl color from plastidip. What's the actual color? I'm going to dip my car soon. I was thinking about colorshift. You used the DYC sprayer? I was going to try shooting it through my DeVilbiss primer gun.
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Oct 14, 2017 22:58
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New pads and rotors on the wife's CX-5. Mazda is actually cool enough to put a threaded hole in the rotor hat that goes all the way through so you can run a bolt in there to push the rotor off the hub. Threads are M8 x 1.25 if anyone has a similar project approaching. Pro tip: the rear caliper bolts off a late 4th gen F-body (and probably a million other GM cars) are this exact thread and will do the job. I ended up twisting the head off of one of mine, but that was my fault more than the bolt.
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Oct 14, 2017 23:10
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:New pads and rotors on the wife's CX-5. Mazda is actually cool enough to put a threaded hole in the rotor hat that goes all the way through so you can run a bolt in there to push the rotor off the hub. Threads are M8 x 1.25 if anyone has a similar project approaching. Pro tip: the rear caliper bolts off a late 4th gen F-body (and probably a million other GM cars) are this exact thread and will do the job. I ended up twisting the head off of one of mine, but that was my fault more than the bolt. Since I live in maine i've never actually had that trick work for me. Either the threads are a big ball of rust, or the rotor is so stuck the threads just rip out. really nice idea in theory, though ... Might have had something to do with the fact I worked in one of those shops you take your car to if you want another year out of it. I finally got fed up with the halfassed way we were supposed to repair things. Anyway, I digress..
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Oct 15, 2017 01:47
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Cleaned up some loose ends, rewarded myself with installing the bench seat, added some gas, and pulled out of the garage for the first time in 2017. Now it's time to tune and work out some kinks (intake leak making an awful whistle). 
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Oct 15, 2017 01:49
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bEatmstrJ posted:Well, that's on purpose. Its a "color-shift" color, so yes, it changes colors depending on light/angle. Its the "Phoenix" pearl color from plastidip.
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Oct 15, 2017 01:58
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I've been using the abrasive disc monkeynutZ recommended in his thread. Biggest problem is it's not safe to use around other panels I don't want to strip, so the front fender and door had to come off. Fender done first. Stripped to bare metal and etch primed  Door stripped just before it was also etch primed  Hopefully after a few coats of high fill primer the door ding won't show much, as well as the tail light area repair (which is pretty bad as I have a couple of high spots I missed and some metal panel beating not done very well) Posting because I want to check my plan with knowledgeable people. My plan is to do 2 base coats on the door and fender while off the car, then refit for a light "blending in" coat to adjacent panels (ie. bumper, cab, tub, sills, hood will not be painted so I need to colourmatch/blend into them) The drivers side is where the guard and door are from and where the tail light repair is being done. If I have enough paint and time I would want to do that whole side, cab and tub included. I guess all I need to do to rub back past the clear coat and overspray some base? The tub and cab aren't peeling base coat so they don't need to go back to bare metal (but clear coat is staring to peel) Fo3 fucked around with this message at 10:05 on Oct 15, 2017 |
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Oct 15, 2017 09:59
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chrisgt posted:Since I live in maine i've never actually had that trick work for me. Either the threads are a big ball of rust, or the rotor is so stuck the threads just rip out. really nice idea in theory, though ... Might have had something to do with the fact I worked in one of those shops you take your car to if you want another year out of it. I finally got fed up with the halfassed way we were supposed to repair things. Anyway, I digress.. I couldn't believe it worked as well as it did. I'm way up north in Illinois and there's no shortage of rust up here including on the old rotors. I gave everything a good hosing down with Kroil before I started turning poo poo so that probably didn't hurt.
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Oct 15, 2017 18:24
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 For the first time in my ownership the CEL is dark.
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Oct 16, 2017 00:57
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Boys who love boys
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That doesn't usually happen for me until the bulb burns out.... My Mercedes doesn't have a CEL, it's weird... I'm so used to being warned the engine might have gone missing.
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Oct 16, 2017 01:45
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ABS module will gently caress up tomorrow, I'm sure, but hopefully messieurs P0171, P0174 and P0332 are gone for at least a few years.
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Oct 16, 2017 01:50
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Nah, next it'll kick out some fun evap codes. 
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Oct 16, 2017 01:58
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Nah, next it'll kick out some fun evap codes. Probably. I'm amazed I didn't snap my purge line pulling the manifold. Why did you have to use a hard line, GM? A hose would have been so easy. Same for the FPR vacuum line. You coulda just used to 1/4" bungs and a hose, but now I need to buy some stupid 3/8th to 3/16th piece instead of thirty cents worth of rubber hose. Also, gently caress your EGR setup, a real flange and two bolts would have saved me an hour.
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Oct 16, 2017 02:05
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Speaking of Evap codes I’ve got one I’m going to have to address on a 2001 Grand Prix. The code is P0442 which is a small leak. It’s not the gas cap. How do I even begin troubleshooting this? Moving to a state with emissions testing so it’ll have to be fixed before I can register it.
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Oct 16, 2017 02:31
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