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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I plan on getting an ultrasonic cleaner for Christmas. It just seems too useful not to have. As a bonus, ultrasonic cleaners are really good for cleaning glasses/jewelery/etc
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Oct 15, 2017 04:05
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:
I really love the white guns for some reason.
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Oct 15, 2017 05:12
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w00tmonger posted:As a bonus, ultrasonic cleaners are really good for cleaning glasses/jewelery/etc Also guns.
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Oct 15, 2017 05:44
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Also guns. How have I never considered this? 
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Oct 15, 2017 06:00
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You can totally put watered down pva in a normal $5 spray bottle. Pretty sure I've seen that on some YouTube terrainmakers videos.
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Oct 15, 2017 06:10
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Bistromatic posted:Lead casting time!
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Oct 15, 2017 11:48
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:
These guys look sweet, man. Do a character next!
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Oct 15, 2017 14:28
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The Sex Cannon posted:These guys look sweet, man. Do a character next! I am going to do another full squad, then reward myself with the Primaris Power Fist Captain. Springfield and Bowie are both celebrating their birthdays on the 21st.
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Oct 15, 2017 14:53
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OptimusWang posted:How have I never considered this? It's basically cheating.
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Oct 15, 2017 14:56
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Also guns. My UT cleaner is too small for that. What UT cleaner can fit a gun? I might just be able to fit half of my 1911 into my current UT cleaner
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Oct 15, 2017 15:12
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Hint: disassemble the gun first. 
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Oct 15, 2017 15:28
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Some work in progress pics of my faux-Praetorian Guard They're based on this pic I found online. I'm using standard Cadian bodies Victoria Miniatures male and female pith helmet heads.  My First squad, I have to figure out how I want to base them.  This guy turned out really well.  My first tank, still needs a bunch of detail work. 
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Oct 15, 2017 15:35
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Felime posted:You can totally put watered down pva in a normal $5 spray bottle. Pretty sure I've seen that on some YouTube terrainmakers videos.  Of course, why are we even talking about airbrushing glue, I've seen some of those videos... Thanks!Bucnasti, I'm really digging your Space Redcoats (not to mention, the blending on that tank is really subtle and gorgeous). What did you use for the blonde on 2nd Lt. Cornwallis-Smythe's muttonchops?
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Oct 15, 2017 15:56
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Ilor posted:Hint: disassemble the gun first. That may work for handguns but not for any of me rifles
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Oct 15, 2017 16:05
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Electric Hobo posted:What kind of sand do you use? I'm interested in casting stuff in sand, but the real deal costs a fortune around here. I've read about several homemade mixes that are much more affordable, but I don't know how good they are. I got 5kg of this stuff for 16,45€. So far i'm pleased with it, it's super fine grained and compacts very well. The page is in german but google translate does an okay job on it from a quick glance. If you do want to order from there and need help with the german let me know.
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Oct 15, 2017 16:57
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Does anyone have experience with doing commissions? Trying to figure out pricing for something.
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Oct 15, 2017 17:25
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Dr. Gargunza posted:
Thanks. Those muttonchops are just Reaper Golden Blonde base with Army Painter Soft Tone wash.
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Oct 15, 2017 17:39
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ijyt posted:Does anyone have experience with doing commissions? Trying to figure out pricing for something. Because people do not value art. 
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Oct 15, 2017 17:41
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Phi230 posted:That may work for handguns but not for any of me rifles Maybe you can clean your BCG now without disassembling it?
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Oct 15, 2017 18:06
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Ilor posted:Whatever you charge, it probably won't cover your time. And if it does, some grognard will say, "WTF, I'm not paying that much!" It's this. If you want to make a spirited attempt at it, though, figure out your rate as a function of hourly wages. Ideally, you'll be able to say "I charge n-money per hour" and your client will agree, trusting you to create a reasonable invoice upon completion, since some jobs are quick and some take a million years. That rarely happens, though, so ballpark your project timeline first and then ask for the equivalent as if it were an hourly wage - charge ten dollars an hour, guess it'll take about ten hours, ask for a block upfront of $100, etc. Your other option is to negotiate a general price and end up working for substantially less than minimum wage. I would suggest you ask for at least half the money up front and half on completion, if you're doing things in person. If you can set up an invoice through Paypal or your preferred online retail helper, do so. If you're doing anything that involves somebody mailing you stuff to paint, do not accept any handshake deals, only deal in invoicing, and demand receipts and tracking for every leg the minis travel. If you're showing your client in-process stuff or allowing revisions, put a cap on how many changes they can make. A good rule of thumb would be to allow one big revision and three little revisions, so that your client feels like they're getting what they want, but they're also not making you redo your entire project from scratch multiple times. For instance, if they decide they want their tanks to be green instead of blue, and you've already painted them, that's their big change. They decide they want their sergeant's beard to be red instead of brown, that's a little change. If you're not allowing revisions at all and they're required to trust your judgement, get that in writing before you even start. Be prepared to get shortchanged or outright screwed. Good luck!
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Oct 15, 2017 18:50
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I’m in an airbrushing for miniatures class today, and holy poo poo why haven’t I been doing this for years?
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Oct 15, 2017 19:22
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I've been working on custom bases for Dropfleet Commander for a while now. The stock ones are decent but there's room for improvement if you're willing to throw tons of effort and equipment at the problem. People here really liked the previous prototype so i'm crossquoting these from the dropthread. If you're not familiar with Dropfleet Commander: During the game a ships radar signature can change, this is called Sensor Spikes in the rules. That's what the green/yellow/red dial is for. There's three altitude levels since you generally play above a planet, not in deep space. Should be pretty obvious how that is displayed  Bistromatic posted:Finally got the next round of base prototypes done. I think i'm getting really close to a final design. Next step is making a small set and actually playtesting them. If everything goes well i'll be presenting Tricked Out Dropfleet at a local con in february.
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Oct 15, 2017 20:39
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Bistromatic posted:I've been working on custom bases for Dropfleet Commander for a while now. The stock ones are decent but there's room for improvement if you're willing to throw tons of effort and equipment at the problem. These are amazing. 
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Oct 15, 2017 20:42
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Holy poo poo
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Oct 15, 2017 21:06
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Bistromatic posted:I've been working on custom bases for Dropfleet Commander for a while now. The stock ones are decent but there's room for improvement if you're willing to throw tons of effort and equipment at the problem. This is the coolest. Your posts already have me trying to convince my friends to get into Dropfleet Commander.
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Oct 15, 2017 21:11
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Yeah, that's... Slick as poo poo and looks like a polished actual product.
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Oct 15, 2017 21:26
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Phi230 posted:My UT cleaner is too small for that. What UT cleaner can fit a gun? I might just be able to fit half of my 1911 into my current UT cleaner If you reload, ultrasonics can do a reasonable job on cleaning fired brass. Not as nice as a rotary tumbler, but still decent. Even small ones are still useful for cleaning up small parts and springs or smallish assemblies like an AR bolt.
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Oct 15, 2017 21:46
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Finished some NightBoi tanks   
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Oct 15, 2017 22:29
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  So the base isn't done as such; I still need to paint the rim black to sharpen it up, probably add another layer of snow flock to eliminate the salt-and-pepper effect I'm getting where there's just a few spots where no snow flock adhered and it looks like black dots, and the marine is still only stuck on there with his sole pins -- after I glue him down I'll need to add a bit more flock around his feet so he looks like he's standing in snow instead of on it. Also, in the category of things too late to fix on this base but that I could do for later ones, the colors aren't great because I tried to paint a woodland base and then stuck snow on it, instead of painting the base so it would look good with snow on it -- I ought to have used colder, darker colors to make the contrast between the snow and the bits of ground you can see around the snow pop more. And finally those grass tufts don't look great; I could use something like Woodland Scenics underbrush or bush flocking for a more voluminous surface that snow will actually rest on top of, like snow rests on real bushes. The problem is I hate the overall effect and nothing I wrote in the above paragraph will fix the major problem, which is that I'm going for smooth snow like a blanket over the landscape, not... whatever the hell lumpy white gravel pit effect I've achieved here. I could use baking soda on white glue, but research into that indicates it'll yellow and eventually liquify and run off the base in three to eight years, ruining the mini. I could use baking soda on superglue, but soda bicarbonate and cyanoacrilate chemically react, causing the glue to accelerate its drying and causing the soda to crystalize more permanently but clump up, ruining the smooth blanket effect. I could use talcum powder, but that's a lung hazard and also the only stuff they sell around here is scented like baby powder. I could use the paste Vince Venturello advocates in this video, but it's difficult to create a smooth blanket effect when spreading a thick paste around with a paintbrush and I sort of hate the globby clumpy snow effect he achieves there. Finally, I could just do a textured base and then carefully paint a smooth layer of snow on it using various blends of blue and white paint, but... yeesh, that feels like a lot of work. Anybody have any other suggestions on better snow bases?
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Oct 15, 2017 22:36
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The contemptor was actually super easy to magnetize, and I am happy with my one day paint of the captainR0ckfish posted:I did a few things in the last week
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Oct 16, 2017 05:03
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My buddy and I knocked out a ton of stuff for my SoH army today       
Broken Record Talk fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Oct 16, 2017 |
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Oct 16, 2017 05:42
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Stephenls posted:Anybody have any other suggestions on better snow bases? I doubt talcum powder, which is sold for use with infants, poses a significant respiratory threat at the level of exposure you would see. I would look at that, or alternatively chalk powder.
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Oct 16, 2017 06:43
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Stephenls posted:Anybody have any other suggestions on better snow bases? I've actually managed to get a smooth snow effect with the Woodland Scenics snow-glue paste, albeit accidentally; I had too much liquid in the paste when I applied it. A very wet mixture will level itself out somewhat. It is doable, you just have to be patient with it. If you cover the entire base with a smooth layer of snow, one thing you should do is put some small sticks, rocks, debris, etc. poking through the snow, to create visual contrast. Otherwise it will just look like your miniature is standing on a featureless white circle.
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Oct 16, 2017 07:11
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Cross posting my first completed knight. Zuul the Cat posted:The first of my Knights of House Taranis is ready for war. Learned some stuff about painting knights along the way. Mostly - I need to get better at the heat burn on the barrels, and I should make a base first then put the model onto it.
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Oct 16, 2017 15:32
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The Sex Cannon posted:attach a camera to the model so we can see your painting face Nobody needs to see how often I lick my brushes.
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Oct 16, 2017 20:12
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Zuul the Cat posted:Cross posting my first completed knight. Love the lenses. If I were you I would give the red hoses around the face a light wash to add some shadows, but it's a minor thing. Also drill your stubber barrel (is that what that is next to the battle cannon).
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Oct 16, 2017 20:16
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Zuul the Cat posted:Cross posting my first completed knight. Looks awesome dude, nice work.
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Oct 16, 2017 21:43
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Finally got around to finishing up Wrongeye to complete the gator bros.
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Oct 16, 2017 22:06
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I based a large model using GW Martian Ironcrust. I highlighted it in a light orange and very light pass of off white. I mostly like how it looks, but on a large base it all looks similar and doesn't have much visual interest. Any ideas how to make this more interesting with paint/pigment? P.S. yes the blood red in the grey rocks is crap. Already fixing that. 
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Oct 16, 2017 22:30
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Mugaaz posted:I based a large model using GW Martian Ironcrust. I highlighted it in a light orange and very light pass of off white. I mostly like how it looks, but on a large base it all looks similar and doesn't have much visual interest. Any ideas how to make this more interesting with paint/pigment? I think it looks fine, but maybe add battlefield debris or skulls?
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Oct 16, 2017 22:34
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