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 Here's the alignment page... Was it really that bad in the back to ruin a set of tires?
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Oct 16, 2017 02:18
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Over the life of a tire, yes Also, certain tread patterns and compounds are more susceptible to cupping than others. If the noise doesn't bother you just run them.
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Oct 16, 2017 02:29
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Re: uneven tire wear, the tread wearing down along both outside edges == too low pressure, right? I just noticed this on exactly one of my tires and we're two weeks from swapping on winter tires so I'm ignoring it until this set goes back on in April, but I'd like to know if it's likely something more meaningful than "air it up" that will affect the much less cheap snow tire going on that corner.
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Oct 16, 2017 02:55
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Javid posted:Re: uneven tire wear, the tread wearing down along both outside edges == too low pressure, right? Is the current pressure in the tire actually low? If it is, then mystery solved. If not, there's something else going on - and that something else would have to be pretty odd.
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Oct 16, 2017 02:58
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I haven't checked.  and the tire place will tell me I'm sure. I have a gauge somewhere but not sure where just now.
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Oct 16, 2017 03:08
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So if I wanted to have something 3D printed in nylon plastic via Shapeways what is the easiest/cheapest way to get an accurate 3D model of the thing? It's a door check, basically the center rod of this 
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Oct 16, 2017 03:29
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That looks absurdly easy to model if you can draw it vaguely accurately. My only concern is that that looks like stamped cheapo metal which is still way stronger than Shapeways' SLS printing, which are still much beefier than most home printers can squirt out. Do you have a broken one you can measure? If so I can draw it up real quick for you.
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Oct 16, 2017 03:36
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Mine isn't broken, but they seem to be a nylon plastic stock. Over the years the center rod wears through friction and the detent is no longer caught, which lets the door kinda fall back closed when you open it on a hill. I'll see if I can get one off eBay to take measurements with 
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Oct 16, 2017 03:40
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I don't know how far I'd trust a print to bear that much weight but it will also cost like four dollars so it's worth a shot.
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Oct 16, 2017 03:44
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My rear right tyre has a puncture (as far as I can tell). Got a warning light yesterday evening that it was losing pressure. Went to a gas station, topped all the tyres up, they were all at 34psi but the rear right one was at 24 psi IIRC. Just to double check it was indeed punctured, I went to a gas station again today (barely drove it since yesterday evening) and all the other tyres were still at 34psi but this one was at 29psi. Repair dudes are coming out in the next two minutes to put the service tyre on for me. My question is: how much will it cost to get a replacement for this tyre? I've never had to do this in the past. The tyres are on 16" rims. Dunno what other info to give to be helpful.
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Oct 16, 2017 15:35
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They should be able to just patch the tire. It'll cost about $20 (roughly £7,297,145). If the tire has to be replaced, the cost will depend on what tire you buy. Somewhere around $100 (£19,723,923)
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Oct 16, 2017 15:41
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I loving loved those GBP quotes. Also, I'm the unluckiest fucker: breakdown assistance came, took the tyre off. It was indeed punctured. A big gently caress off nail right in the sidewall, so it'll have to be a new tyre entirely. Which absolutely sucks, seeing as the car is about 3 months old and hasn't even done 2000 miles. Told the guy who changed the wheel out for me that it wasn't worth the fuckin Tesco meal deal that I'd gone to get the other day (which is when the puncture would have happened). gently caress my life.
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Oct 16, 2017 16:10
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Fiance's car, 2005 CR-V, 5 speed auto. Looks like it's developed a transmission shudder when doing partial throttle acceleration (no kickdown) in the 45-60mph range. It feels to me like a torque converter lockup problem, but then I'm not really familiar with Honda transmissions. Assuming that's what it is, what's the going cost for torque converter replacement these days? Alternatively, should I be looking at something else as the cause of the problem, like an ECU issue?
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Oct 16, 2017 19:17
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Coil packs might be going bad.
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Oct 16, 2017 21:07
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Wouldn't that manifest itself under other conditions?
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Oct 16, 2017 21:22
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Usually no. They generally get weaker because they start to leak voltage through the protective case. You can turn out the lights and mist water in them and youll see why its happening. It also somehow leaks right thriugh the plastic and depending on what they use it sometimes looks smokey where it arcs through the plastic or burnt in some way. Its probably tiny fractures you cant really see that cause it but i have no idea. For whatever reason the voltage gets high enough it jumps there and not your spark plug, drops rpm, voltage drops, spark makes it back through, rpm goes back up, arcs again etc. So yeah that process can happen very rapidly and make it shudder for sure especially if its right in that sweet spot of high load were it wants to shift.
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Oct 16, 2017 22:03
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DogonCrook posted:For whatever reason the voltage gets high enough it jumps there and not your spark plug The reason would be that under load, you have more air in the cylinder, which makes cylinder pressure at ignition higher. High pressure means higher voltage is required to jump the gap. Electricity takes the path of least resistance, so if the demand voltage is high and insulation is poor then the spark will go through the poor insulation rather than the gap. vv I'm not sure if that was a joke but I just like teaching people about stuff so I'm not being snarky or anything, just explaining the mechanism of this kind of misfire. totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Oct 16, 2017 |
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Oct 16, 2017 22:15
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Cant handle the vtec bro haha
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Oct 16, 2017 22:21
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What's the consensus on the 2005 Taurus? A co-worker has one for sale and before I express any interest, I want to know if it's worth considering. All I know about it right now is that it has 162k miles and "needs brake pads".
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Oct 16, 2017 22:51
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The weak point of every Taurus until maybe the current Five Hundred-based generation is the transmission. If it's otherwise reliable, and the price is low enough that even if you end up replacing the transmission it's still affordable, they're fine rolling couches.
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Oct 16, 2017 23:34
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Godholio posted:The weak point of every Taurus until maybe the current Five Hundred-based generation is the transmission. If it's otherwise reliable, and the price is low enough that even if you end up replacing the transmission it's still affordable, they're fine rolling couches. The asking price is $1300.
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Oct 16, 2017 23:47
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DogonCrook posted:Usually no. They generally get weaker because they start to leak voltage through the protective case. You can turn out the lights and mist water in them and youll see why its happening. It also somehow leaks right thriugh the plastic and depending on what they use it sometimes looks smokey where it arcs through the plastic or burnt in some way. Its probably tiny fractures you cant really see that cause it but i have no idea. So, this is a known Honda issue, then? Cause it sure felt like the torque converter, and the car is at 190k, but the transmission was also just serviced in July and has only like 3k since then, which is why I was wondering. I'd be much happier if it was the coil rather than the tc.
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Oct 16, 2017 23:55
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Mister Kingdom posted:The asking price is $1300. Can't be too picky at that price. It's a boring mid-sized car, but unless there's something major wrong it should be fine for the money. It's basically a disposable car. Drive it until something expensive goes wrong, then dump it.
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Oct 16, 2017 23:55
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Deteriorata posted:Can't be too picky at that price. It's a boring mid-sized car, but unless there's something major wrong it should be fine for the money. Based on what happens when I take the Camry in this week, I'll take a closer look at it. As long as the AC works, I'm good to go. Life in the south in the summer is not possible without it.
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Oct 17, 2017 00:00
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2013 Ford Explorer Sport (V6 3.5l EcoBoost, automatic transmission), just shy of 70k miles, still under a secondary dealership warranty. Had an oxygen sensor replaced about 5,000 miles ago, but other than that no unusual service has been needed. Up to date on service. I visited family nearly 300 miles away this weekend and a check engine light (Torque reports a code P0016) appeared after going through an extremely hilly area when it was using engine braking during cruise control (cruise control was then turned off as soon as it happened). Came on when going there (late Friday), cleared while in town, and came back on my way out (Sunday afternoon) and it cleared about half-way back to Detroit. Both times the CEL came on the same road (C-58/Mitchell Rd coming in and out of Petoskey) and under the same conditions, both times it was a P0016. It's been 2 years since I made that trek in this Explorer and it didn't give me any lights then. Is this a GET IT CHECKED OUT NOW NOW NOW sort of thing or more of a mention it during my next oil change sort of thing, assuming it doesn't come back on? I don't have a scope to check the sensors output, and honestly my ability to troubleshoot this is fairly limited.
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Oct 17, 2017 01:52
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Fire Storm posted:2013 Ford Explorer Sport (V6 3.5l EcoBoost, automatic transmission), just shy of 70k miles, still under a secondary dealership warranty. Had an oxygen sensor replaced about 5,000 miles ago, but other than that no unusual service has been needed. Up to date on service. Weird that it happens at the same spot. Do you hear any sort of rattle from the front end of the engine, especially if the car hasn't been driven for a while? It sounds like p0016 is set when the cam and crank sensors are out of sync. This could be a bad sensor, or something like timing chain wear. I don't know if either of those are STOP DRIVING NOW issues. Timing chain wear would be gradual, and hopefully you would set the code consistently before you introduce valves to pistons or throw a chain. If it's a bad sensor, it could leave you stranded which sucks but I don't think it would lunch the engine.
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Oct 17, 2017 03:40
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Boys who love boys
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Fire Storm posted:2013 Ford Explorer Sport (V6 3.5l EcoBoost, automatic transmission), just shy of 70k miles, still under a secondary dealership warranty. Had an oxygen sensor replaced about 5,000 miles ago, but other than that no unusual service has been needed. Up to date on service. On certain cars (mostly Hondas) this code can get set if your oil is low. The variable valve timing is all controlled with oil - and it's all at the top of the engine. If you're a bit low on oil pressure, the valve timing will get stuck in places it shouldn't be. So check your oil real quick - if that's the problem, then hey - cheap fix!
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Oct 17, 2017 05:49
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Fire Storm posted:2013 Ford Explorer Sport (V6 3.5l EcoBoost, automatic transmission), just shy of 70k miles, still under a secondary dealership warranty. Had an oxygen sensor replaced about 5,000 miles ago, but other than that no unusual service has been needed. Up to date on service. Weren't these engines prone to timing chain issues? And I think one of the symptoms is that specific code. That code is a mismatch between the crank position sensor and a cam position sensor. I'd get it checked out as soon as you can. You don't want it jumping timing - it'll get a lot more expensive in a hurry. It might just need a re-learn on the crank position sensor (dealer can do that), or it may have a stretched timing chain.
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Oct 17, 2017 06:01
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Mister Kingdom posted:The asking price is $1300. That's a deal for any under 20 year old car that doesn't currently need thousands in repairs, doesn't have an obvious terminal rust problem, and can currently pass a safety inspection.
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Oct 17, 2017 16:29
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Playing with it some more. Condition only presents itself between 45-60, only under partial throttle acceleration. If I go WOT or force a kickdown, then the condition goes away. Trans is shifting smooth every time, and the engine is never stuttering. CEL has just come on.
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Oct 17, 2017 18:08
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Weren't these engines prone to timing chain issues? And I think one of the symptoms is that specific code. That code is a mismatch between the crank position sensor and a cam position sensor. Yeah this. Its also a magnetic sensor usually and if a flake of metal lands on it it can read funny so make sure its clear.
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Oct 17, 2017 18:17
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Not sure where to post this but it's certainly a stupid question so maybe it works here. Dealer sent an email stating they "urgently" need to samples of a car I own to fill out their "dealer inventory" with a promise about "aggressive pricing" if I give my car to them before the end of the week. I've never encountered anything like this, and my suspicion is what is actually happening is sales department is desperate to get sales figures up and the "aggressive" pricing is actually a few extra percent on trade-in and the hope I'll buy a new car from them. But googling around I can't find any information on this tactic, so figured I'd ask around to try and satiate my curiosity. Anyone heard of anything like this?
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Oct 17, 2017 18:19
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xzzy posted:Not sure where to post this but it's certainly a stupid question so maybe it works here. This is older than the hills. They don't want your car, they want you to buy a new car. It's just them spending money on marketing.
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Oct 17, 2017 18:20
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xzzy posted:Not sure where to post this but it's certainly a stupid question so maybe it works here. Yes, that's exactly what it is. They don't give a poo poo about your current car - they'll just wholesale it at auction. It's a come-on to get you to buy a new car.
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Oct 17, 2017 18:20
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Well it's comforting that I interpreted things correctly then. Does this tactic have a term?
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Oct 17, 2017 18:28
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Yeah the mantra in car sales is get you in the door at all costs. Thry dont want to talk on the phone or do email poo poo they want you in the door. Its kind of an oldschool mentality honestly but some dealers take this way to far to the point they straight up will lie to you about a car being on their lot just so they can "well since you are here"
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Oct 17, 2017 18:30
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First time I bought new I told the dealer I wanted a model in blue and he rolls out one in silver and tried to convince me "if you look at it in the light in a certain way you can see a little bit of blue!" I walked out.
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Oct 17, 2017 18:35
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Hahaha yeah. No loving shame. To be fair he would have been fired if he didnt try.
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Oct 17, 2017 18:47
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When I bought my civic I went to a joint Honda/Toyota lot and they didn't have a 5 speed civic on hand. The guy said they did have a similar Toyota, would I give it a shot? I thought what the hell, sure...and the guy radios his driver and they pull around in a loving Avalon. Another place that didn't have the one I wanted got extremely hostile and aggressive when I said I would just try the much larger dealership the next town over instead of waiting for him to get one shipped in.
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Oct 17, 2017 18:54
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xzzy posted:First time I bought new I told the dealer I wanted a model in blue and he rolls out one in silver and tried to convince me "if you look at it in the light in a certain way you can see a little bit of blue!" They can and do trade cars around all the time with other dealers so I have no idea why he would do this. Just say, "Don't have a blue one on the lot but I can get you one when you decide to buy." It's a new car, anyway, they're all going to be more or less the same on the test drive.
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Oct 17, 2017 19:32
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