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What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
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| Perennials! |
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142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
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30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
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62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
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171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
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60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
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31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
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183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
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It's a recently transplanted tree, isn't it? They're super vulnerable to summer heat without water.
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Sep 26, 2017 02:53
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Shame Boner posted:The best fertilizer is of course a gardener's shadow and so forth. This is a beautiful saying.
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Sep 26, 2017 03:22
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Hello plants thread. I have had...less success with gardening. Dead: Lemon Tree Lime Tree English ivy Lambs ear Lavender Hibiscus Purple viney things that didn't deserve to die so quickly Alive: Inherited calla lilies Inherited succulents Maybe the Russian sage Some of the phloxes I am looking for something I can establish or buy established in a pot which can then be set outside. The plant will then spill out over the side of the pot or send runners down or somehow escape and establish itself in my terrible soil. Full sun, northern California. Ideally it will then cover the ground in a pleasing green color. Thank you. I have an indoor orchid that's thriving so go figure.
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Sep 26, 2017 09:38
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How the hell do you kill lavender?  I should send you some of my strawberries, I had to butcher 50% of them and they still send out runners like crazy.
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Sep 26, 2017 10:27
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Shame Boner posted:I wouldn't say they're "bad"; but after seeing them in action, I'm only convinced that they're a novel way to make someone $30 poorer. The primary reason I don't like them is that they promote the kind of laziness and neglect that leads to poor establishment. My understanding is that these bags are to be removed after they empty, so the ground and the base of the tree can get some air. The landscape company that maintains the grounds at work installed dozens of trees and had the bags around the base for weeks, filling them when empty. Some were the upright Treegator bags and others were the hemorrhoid pillow-looking ones. After the bags came off, many of the trees that didn't outright die predictably had fungal issues and insect damage where the bags were. It's been a couple years since, and many of the trees that had issues never recovered and still look like hell. I don't see a decisive advantage over proper mulching and a soaker hose/bucket with weep holes. The best fertilizer is of course a gardener's shadow and so forth. I used TreeGators after having some crabapple trees transplanted in. It was a very very dry year and only having to fill up the bags once a week made it a lot easier to keep them properly watered. However, you are absolutely correct about the need to remove them from the trunk occasionally. Worth noting that the instructions do not mention this, and the tree guy who recommended the whole thing to me didn't do that either. But a year afterwards, two of the three are dealing with insects who were able to get inside through damaged bark on the trunk that came from the constant dark and moisture of the bag. I wouldn't say they're a bad idea, still, they actually worked very well for their primary function. But if I were to use them again I would definitely take them off every so often (maybe every couple weeks or every month) just to let the trunk air off and dry out.
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Sep 26, 2017 14:55
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listrada posted:This is a beautiful saying. I wish I cold take credit, but it's an old Chinese adage. Beachcomber posted:I am looking for something I can establish or buy established in a pot which can then be set outside. The plant will then spill out over the side of the pot or send runners down or somehow escape and establish itself in my terrible soil. Full sun, northern California. Ideally it will then cover the ground in a pleasing green color. One of my favorites is nasturtium. I wish I had a picture of the orange, red, and yellow-flowered nasturtium creeping and climbing the trellis (and my house/gutters!) in my own garden, but this is a common sight:  Around here (Ohio zone 6a), it's a quickly-growing annual ground cover and flowers profusely from spring well into fall. As a south- and central-american native, it's hardy in zones 9 - 11, so I'd imagine it'd thrive in your area and may even be hardy. It readily drapes out of boxes and baskets and will start climbing anything it can. Every part of this plant is edible and delicious and has a fresh, peppery taste like watercress. Apparently there are varieties with a bushier, mounding habit but I'm a sucker for the trailing ones.
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Sep 26, 2017 18:53
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[quote="“cakesmith handyman”" post="“476776106”"] How the hell do you kill lavender? [/quote] I can't even kill it in my case. poo poo just won't grow to begin with. That particular corner of the garden gets too much sun, or possibly even too hot as it's in a smallish "alley" between two homes with tons of windows reflecting sun around. It is noticing hotter than the surrounding area. I'm likely just bad/crazy though.
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Sep 27, 2017 12:36
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Fitzy Fitz posted:It's a recently transplanted tree, isn't it? They're super vulnerable to summer heat without water. So are saplings. As for larger, established trees, you only really need to water them if it's an extreme drought. My dad used to just turn the hose on a trickle and put it on each tree in his little orchard overnight when it didn't rain for like 3 weeks.
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Sep 27, 2017 20:10
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cakesmith handyman posted:How the hell do you kill lavender? I'm also in norcal and I've managed to kill lavender, easily. It's as simple as failing to water it 3x a week during the summer. It gets hot here, hot and dry, and sunny, with no rain for months.
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Sep 27, 2017 20:50
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Does some kinda substance that will kill all plantlife in a area and leave only dirt/dead plants, but allow the soil to recover and grow plants again after a year or two exist? I bought a fixer-upper of a house 1.5 years ago where nobody had lived for 8+ years. The inside is easy to fix, but the garden has some very troublesome areas where plants have reigned freely for at least 12 years and it's very difficult to impossible to dig there cause of either a myriad of roots or the location it self.
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Oct 2, 2017 15:12
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Dongattack posted:Does some kinda substance that will kill all plantlife in a area and leave only dirt/dead plants, but allow the soil to recover and grow plants again after a year or two exist? 
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Oct 2, 2017 15:22
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Haha, true!
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Oct 2, 2017 15:24
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Isn't that exactly what roundup is for?
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Oct 2, 2017 15:32
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dupersaurus posted:Isn't that exactly what roundup is for? I googled and it says that it leaves whatever isn't weeds. Ideally i'd like to kill everything so i can start over or start digging in the area, but maybe it'll be enough? I'll try it.
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Oct 2, 2017 15:41
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There is no biological distinction between weeds and non-weeds. Roundup targets a chemical process that is basically universal in plants. What exactly are you dealing with though? If your yard is just full of annuals, then Roundup is just going to kill a bunch of plants that were going to die anyway and they'll be back in the spring. If you have larger woody weeds (like bamboo, honeysuckle, or privet), then you'll want to cut the plants down before you spray the stumps. If there's a lot of grass, then you might want to use a grass-specific herbicide. Fitzy Fitz fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Oct 2, 2017 |
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Oct 2, 2017 15:48
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Dongattack posted:I googled and it says that it leaves whatever isn't weeds. Ideally i'd like to kill everything so i can start over or start digging in the area, but maybe it'll be enough? I'll try it. Monsato makes strains of some crops that are resistant to roundup so that fields can be sprayed indiscriminately without killing the crops. So unless your garden is full of those...
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Oct 2, 2017 15:55
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Dongattack posted:Does some kinda substance that will kill all plantlife in a area and leave only dirt/dead plants, but allow the soil to recover and grow plants again after a year or two exist? Glyphosate (AKA Roundup). You might need to spray, till, wait 2 weeks and spray again, but it'll do the trick and then degrade into nothingness within a few more weeks. Of course, it won't stay barren for long -- nature will eventually do it's thing. The other option (if it's a place that gets a decent amount of sunlight) is solarizing the area. e: Fitzy Fitz posted:If you have larger woody weeds (like bamboo, honeysuckle, or privet), then you'll want to cut the plants down before you spray the stumps. Correct me if I am wrong, but I don't think this is right? Roundup needs to be absorbed into the plant to do the trick, and so must be sprayed on leafy green vegetation, ideally while actively growing (in fact you might find it beneficial to fertilize slightly right before you spray the roundup to kind of "bait" the plants into sucking the herbicide in more). Either way you're going to need to till the soil, and in case of bamboo probably a lot more than that. Chopping down the growth beforehand might be good as it may encourage rapid growth at the cut site, though (although in that case you'd want to chop and wait for new shoots to appear). Fitzy Fitz posted:If there's a lot of grass, then you might want to use a grass-specific herbicide. Hubis fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Oct 2, 2017 |
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Oct 2, 2017 20:17
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Beachcomber posted:Hello plants thread. I have had...less success with gardening. Seconding nasturtium and strawberries (I have a non-fruiting kind called dune strawberry or something that's doing well). California natives will also survive summer well because they usually go dormant, so don't water them in the dry season (or fertilize ever), they're insanely easy if you don't mind having a scrubby-looking yard every dry season. I had a coreopsis gigantea and loved that stupid thing, it grew like five feet in one year and looked like a bonkers dr Seuss plant. I don't think I ever watered it, like ever. Butterfly Gaura does well, so do rockrose (cistaeacae). If you can keep callas alive you can probably do canna bulbs or dahliahs too. Question for you guys! I have a badly potbound yew and pine tree (they're going to be bonsai if they survive but they're not styled yet so I guess I'll ask here) but it's not repotting season for either yet. Do I do an emergency repot and root trim now, or wait and hope they don't die? What symptoms should I watch out for that mean they're declining? The yew I think will be okay and I'm scared of damaging the roots since they're sensitive, but the pine is so bad that water tends to pool and run off when I try to water it so I'm concerned it's going to dry out before it goes dormant.
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Oct 3, 2017 02:04
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quote is not edit
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Oct 3, 2017 02:05
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Fitzy Fitz posted:There is no biological distinction between weeds and non-weeds. Roundup targets a chemical process that is basically universal in plants. Roundup has to be sprayed on green leaves.
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Oct 3, 2017 02:10
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Naw, you can spray stumps with glyphosate as long as they're freshly cut (and I mean like within 30 seconds; after that CODIT processes will block it). I worked on a trail crew for 2 years, and it's the standard method for hand-clearing a large site of invasive woody plants. If you just spray the leaves then you're left with a big patch of dead things that will need to be cut down anyway. And a lot of the big ones won't fully die and will sprout again (to a limited extent) the next year, so reducing it to a stump keeps that regrowth low and contained as well. I mentioned narrow-leaf-specific herbicides as an alternative to glyphosate because they're more selective if you're mostly trying to get rid of weedy grasses. I've used glyphosate on bamboo a good bit, and it works fine, but I imagine a more precise herbicide might be better (idk much about these though tbh).
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Oct 3, 2017 02:22
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dupersaurus posted:Monsato makes strains of some crops that are resistant to roundup so that fields can be sprayed indiscriminately without killing the crops. So unless your garden is full of those... There's a few weeds starting to pick up glyphosate resistance, so if you live by a field that sprays lots of glyphosate there's a chance you could pick up some. Of course if you find that you should absolutely raze them as a courtesy so they don't spread.
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Oct 3, 2017 05:51
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I repotted some plants this weekend but let them sit directly on my tiled patio where horsetail is trying to grow through. I can't guarantee that I didn't accidentally break off a piece however small it may be and get it into the new pot(s). What do I do?
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Oct 3, 2017 16:58
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:I just wanted to share that Jade I was trying to save is back budding and gorgeoussss. Whoop! I'll post pictures soon Sweet! Here's mine.
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Oct 10, 2017 23:28
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Reformed Tomboy posted:Sweet! Here's mine. That makes me want to re-pot my jade that's been in "suspended animation" due to being in old, depleted soil in way too small of a pot. So small, in fact, that it only takes looking at it wrong while it's dry (all the time) for it to fall over. It's survived many trips onto the floor courtesy of my cats with minimal leaf loss, thanks to its strong, woody stems. Does anyone have a favorite potting mix for succulents they'd like to share? On-hand, I have finished compost, coconut coir, sphagnum moss, pine bark, builder's sand, perlite, and pea gravel and tend to mix my soils out of a combination of a few of these. I'd like to get a flush of new buds on old growth so it fills out like it was years ago.
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Oct 11, 2017 17:04
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Wish I had a picture of my parents' Jade plants - things haven't been repotted in over 20 years, I think, and are still chugging along. Crazy plants.
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Oct 12, 2017 19:13
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After growing up on a farm, but living in apartments for the last decade+, you have no idea how happy this little scene at my new place makes me. Even with the dinky electric mower provided by the landlord Lotta work to do! 
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Oct 16, 2017 15:10
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Dongattack posted:Does some kinda substance that will kill all plantlife in a area and leave only dirt/dead plants, but allow the soil to recover and grow plants again after a year or two exist? I had a similar situation. I bought a house a couple years ago and the 1/3 acre backyard was all wild grasses and weeds. The first year I was mowing and weed walking it every so often. I dug out about 400 square feet for a vegetable garden. This last spring I dug out about 4000 square feet for lawn and than sprayed about every where else with roundup. A large blackberry overrunning the back corner I did in with crossbow. Weeds pop up but the Roundup got rid of the wild grass at least for the summer.
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Oct 17, 2017 07:44
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Shame Boner posted:That makes me want to re-pot my jade that's been in "suspended animation" due to being in old, depleted soil in way too small of a pot. So small, in fact, that it only takes looking at it wrong while it's dry (all the time) for it to fall over. It's survived many trips onto the floor courtesy of my cats with minimal leaf loss, thanks to its strong, woody stems. Does anyone have a favorite potting mix for succulents they'd like to share? On-hand, I have finished compost, coconut coir, sphagnum moss, pine bark, builder's sand, perlite, and pea gravel and tend to mix my soils out of a combination of a few of these. I'd like to get a flush of new buds on old growth so it fills out like it was years ago. I slip potted (thanks someone earlier in the thread for the advice) another one of my jades into dirt and a much larger pot than what it had been neglected in by my friend and it backbudded like crazy. All my jades are in good dirt, they are prettttay hardy
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Oct 17, 2017 08:16
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Sup goons? I was just checking in on some long abandoned mini African violet plants and saw something I had long given up on seeing. Flowers!  Look at these healthy flowers and leaves!  Water bottle for scale. (Please pardon the extremely colorful geometric bandanna I have as a placemat) fuzzy_logic posted:Question for you guys! I have a badly potbound yew and pine tree (they're going to be bonsai if they survive but they're not styled yet so I guess I'll ask here) but it's not repotting season for either yet. Do I do an emergency repot and root trim now, or wait and hope they don't die? What symptoms should I watch out for that mean they're declining? The yew I think will be okay and I'm scared of damaging the roots since they're sensitive, but the pine is so bad that water tends to pool and run off when I try to water it so I'm concerned it's going to dry out before it goes dormant. If things are as bad as you say then a repotting isn't a bad idea, but take into mind how delicate your delicate your pine is or isn't right now. Sometimes too much change too rapidly can kill off a weakened plant, so that's why if a repotting is required, I would recommend a new pot size that is only somewhat better than what you have now. I'm not sure what type of substrate you're using if it's a bonsai (akadama?), but if using conventional potting soil, cutting the soil with some perlite would be welcomed since it would help the roots not suffocate when adjusting to a larger amount of soil to work through. Boris Galerkin posted:I repotted some plants this weekend but let them sit directly on my tiled patio where horsetail is trying to grow through. I can't guarantee that I didn't accidentally break off a piece however small it may be and get it into the new pot(s). What do I do? Eh, horsetail infestation kinda sucks but at this stage you can rest easy. If you see any start sprouting, feel free to pluck them out. If the worst comes to be and horsetail starts sprouting from every nook and cranny of the new pot, then you can scoop out the original plants and repot them while letting the infested pot become the Pot of the Damned of your garden. Shame Boner posted:Does anyone have a favorite potting mix for succulents they'd like to share? Simplest one I have but a favorite is roughly half perlite, half conventional potting soil more or less. This works reasonably well for the majority of non-barrel type cacti, but for barrel type lean hard on perlite for aeration. Though this is just my simple way, and I love to hear other people's recommendations. Reformed Tomboy posted:Sweet! Here's mine. Dude, all of the plants in these pics are what we in 'the biz' say is "very noice". Hell yeah!
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Oct 20, 2017 04:08
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EagerSleeper posted:
Seeing flowers after a long time is always so great. And that bandanna is rad. Thanks! That's about half of my collection.
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Oct 20, 2017 17:45
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That's a nice looking African violet! I don't have any, but it struck me for the first time how the habit is virtually identical to primrose, and in searching for relatives, bumped into Streptocarpus. Now I'm itching to buy a few.
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Oct 20, 2017 18:06
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Hi plant people. I come for identification. I'm usually really good at identifying things on my own, but this thing is giving me trouble. I see these pop up in my garden sometimes. This one is growing in a potted strawberry. They never develop beyond this, reaching maybe an inch or so in height. Anyone know what it is?
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Nov 1, 2017 05:49
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Looks to me like a seedling of some kind of conifer, like a pine.
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Nov 1, 2017 11:57
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I think you're right about that! Explains why I couldn't figure it out. Didn't even think of trees. Thanks!
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Nov 4, 2017 01:35
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Hiya, Plant thread This is Stabby. Near as I can tell, he is a Crown of Thorns, a succulent of some sort. This likely explains why my mother was unable neglect him to death.   My mother, as you can imagine, is not a fan - which is how I've ended up with him. I managed to kill a succulent. I don't want to kill this one. Help me to not kill my new roommate.
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Nov 9, 2017 20:28
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Good news! I've had one for years (I can't remember when I bought it, seriously) that I have not yet been able to kill. In fact, I cut it down to size every now and then and propagate the cuttings, to varied success (the cuttings ooze irritating gunk and can be difficult to deal with). You can find more info about this particular plant (related to poinsettia!) by Googling "Euphorbia millii". Yours is blooming and has nice big leaves--that's great. If it has reasonable light and isn't too wet, it should do fine. Mine is potted in coir (all I had at hand when it came time to repot) and in an east-facing window over my kitchen sink. I water it maybe every couple of weeks. A few cuttings I gave to a friend are flourishing in a west-facing restaurant front window. It's pretty low-maintenance. Good luck!
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Nov 9, 2017 20:50
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Stabby spent the summer in the screened-in porch, out of mom's sight. After a 4 hour roadtrip, has been settled in my bedroom - the sunniest room in my apartment (alas). Just a matter of deciding on where.
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Nov 9, 2017 21:03
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Stabby is such a wonderful name for a plant. 
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Nov 11, 2017 19:21
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| # ? May 16, 2024 00:03 |
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AcetylCoA! posted:Hiya, Plant thread step 1: stop watering it and forget about it Shame Boner posted:That makes me want to re-pot my jade that's been in "suspended animation" due to being in old, depleted soil in way too small of a pot. So small, in fact, that it only takes looking at it wrong while it's dry (all the time) for it to fall over. It's survived many trips onto the floor courtesy of my cats with minimal leaf loss, thanks to its strong, woody stems. Does anyone have a favorite potting mix for succulents they'd like to share? On-hand, I have finished compost, coconut coir, sphagnum moss, pine bark, builder's sand, perlite, and pea gravel and tend to mix my soils out of a combination of a few of these. I'd like to get a flush of new buds on old growth so it fills out like it was years ago. I just put one I took from another friend in good dirt and a bigger pot and it EXPLODED in back buds
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Nov 11, 2017 19:28
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