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Chiwie
Oct 21, 2010

DROP YOUR COAT AND GRAB YOUR TOES, I'LL SHOW YOU WHERE THE WILD GOOSE GOES!!!!

Tiger Millionaire posted:

People experienced with the citadel cracking texture paint, at what point are you covering the base with it?
I used it for the first time yesterday after finishing the model and it's so thick and lumpy that I ended up accidentally getting it on the feet and low hanging parts of the model which was a little frustrating.
Need to know whether I should base earlier in the process or just be more careful.

I had the same problem and I ended up getting around it by building minis blue tacked to spare bases while I 'build' and paint up the actual bases for the miniature.

My method is:

Spak filler - For volume/shape
Texture paints - Wait a few hours for the paint to dry and effect to settle, you can skip this with the non crackling textures (eg: stirland mud)
Matt black spray undercoat - Optional, but I find it seals the spak filler/texture. Also handy if you have mixed colours from using a number of texture paints.
Base coat
Ink
Base colour heavy drybrush
Highlight colour light drybrush
Super glue the undercoated/base coated mini on. Put the superglue on the minis feet for easy results.
Finish mini
Tidy as required
At this point I ring the base with Vallejo 168 Grey Black as I reckon it frames the mini. YMMV.

This might seem laborious, but it's actually quite quick when you're doing batches of 10 ~ 20 bases.

Here is an example of spak filler + stirland mud + agrellan earth.

Colour is Vallejo 135 Beige Brown, highlighted with a rough 75/25 Beige Brown Vallejo 124 Iraqi Sand mix.

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Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon

Tiger Millionaire posted:

People experienced with the citadel cracking texture paint, at what point are you covering the base with it?
I used it for the first time yesterday after finishing the model and it's so thick and lumpy that I ended up accidentally getting it on the feet and low hanging parts of the model which was a little frustrating.
Need to know whether I should base earlier in the process or just be more careful.

I do the base completely separate from the model. Here's my method:

1. Put plastic glue on the models feet and place on the base.

2. Wait a few seconds and pull the model off, leaving an imprint.

3. Scratch the imprint area with a hobby knife so that the footprint is clearly outlined.

4. Glue on other terrain bits like skulls and oyster shell chunks.

5. Prime and base coat, apply texture, paint base. Avoid foot marks.

6. Glue model to sprue and paint.

7. Remove model from sprue, scratch base inside foot marks to expose plastic, and glue together.

Works for me.

richyp
Dec 2, 2004

Grumpy old man

Tiger Millionaire posted:

People experienced with the citadel cracking texture paint, at what point are you covering the base with it?
I used it for the first time yesterday after finishing the model and it's so thick and lumpy that I ended up accidentally getting it on the feet and low hanging parts of the model which was a little frustrating.
Need to know whether I should base earlier in the process or just be more careful.

For the cracking paint you need it quite thick, so slopping it on either before or after priming is easier to control. For the other textures it depends if I remember to paint it on before priming.

I did get a load of Agrellan Earth on the feet of my Blood MurderStabbers after painting, but a wet brush was able to wipe it off.

Chiwie
Oct 21, 2010

DROP YOUR COAT AND GRAB YOUR TOES, I'LL SHOW YOU WHERE THE WILD GOOSE GOES!!!!

richyp posted:

For the cracking paint you need it quite thick, so slopping it on either before or after priming is easier to control.

This is the pro-est of tips. You have to chuck that poo poo on as thick as possible to get a good effect.

Tiger Millionaire
Jan 25, 2014

He'll eat your kids and fire your parents!
Thanks for all the basing advice, I am definitely doing that first from now on!

(mostly) finished my deathshroud, only got the smoke on the bone exhausts left, really happy with how they've turned out, not bad for a beginner, eh?

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
When doing bases, is it best to apply static grass or foliage before or after you seal/varnish?

Chiwie
Oct 21, 2010

DROP YOUR COAT AND GRAB YOUR TOES, I'LL SHOW YOU WHERE THE WILD GOOSE GOES!!!!

Tiger Millionaire posted:

Thanks for all the basing advice, I am definitely doing that first from now on!

(mostly) finished my deathshroud, only got the smoke on the bone exhausts left, really happy with how they've turned out, not bad for a beginner, eh?



That's really good work mate! They look super clean and your high lights are excellent. Have you thought about a green wash along the cloth on the scythes?

Ilor
Feb 2, 2008

That's a crit.
Also - using spackle as a filler to build up your base is fine, but if you're using crackle paints, DO NOT use acrylic paste to build up texture; the crackle paint will also crack the paste.

However - by the same token, if you want super-thick crackles? Put down a layer of acrylic texture paste before your crackle paint. Just be aware that unless you apply some tint to your acrylic paste, the inside of your crackles will be white and you'll need to re-paint/re-stain your base. I discovered all this by accident while making this oasis terrain:

Chiwie
Oct 21, 2010

DROP YOUR COAT AND GRAB YOUR TOES, I'LL SHOW YOU WHERE THE WILD GOOSE GOES!!!!

Ilor posted:

Also - using spackle as a filler to build up your base is fine, but if you're using crackle paints, DO NOT use acrylic paste to build up texture; the crackle paint will also crack the paste.

However - by the same token, if you want super-thick crackles? Put down a layer of acrylic texture paste before your crackle paint. Just be aware that unless you apply some tint to your acrylic paste, the inside of your crackles will be white and you'll need to re-paint/re-stain your base. I discovered all this by accident while making this oasis terrain:


That explains some of the effect I got on some of the bases. I found spray painting the spak before doing the texture paint to seal it removed the uber large cracks but kept the effect looking pretty awesome/good.

Bistromatic
Oct 3, 2004

And turn the inner eye
To see its path...
As a birthday gift for a friend of mine i made some holo effects for his sensor jammer frigates. He'll glue some small magnets in the center and clip them on to show when they activate their ability.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Just want to check, but I'm priming models grey then going immediately over them with all my greena, blues, yellows etc. Should I be priming grey, basecoating grey, then going from there?

Bistromatic
Oct 3, 2004

And turn the inner eye
To see its path...
You can and should work directly on the primer, you're doing it correctly. As long as you get decent coverage there's little reason to use anything in between generally.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe
Anyone have any nice chaos marauder schemes for me to paint the Shadespire dudes in? Trying to avoid going red, red glorious red!

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?
Buglord
Who makes the best plastic glue + applicator, and where doI find it? I usually use CA glue for everything but I got very small and fragile bits to attach

Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer

Geoff Zahn posted:

Who makes the best plastic glue + applicator, and where doI find it? I usually use CA glue for everything but I got very small and fragile bits to attach

Testors 3507AT Liquid Cement for Plastic Models, 1-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005CA7S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8O66zb8PTEYXE

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

I've been using texture paints to speed up basing and basically have the same problem. I've switched to applying the texture after whatever the main basecoat on the feat of the model will be but before any highlights so i can easily touch up without redoing a bunch of highlighting.

Or I just say gently caress it because I never look at the feet of the mini anyway.

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?
Buglord

Booley posted:

Testors 3507AT Liquid Cement for Plastic Models, 1-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005CA7S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8O66zb8PTEYXE

Thank you!

Avenging Dentist
Oct 1, 2005

oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh

Booley posted:

Testors 3507AT Liquid Cement for Plastic Models, 1-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005CA7S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8O66zb8PTEYXE

Do not listen to this person. Purchase Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. It will change your life.

Shadin
Jun 28, 2009

Avenging Dentist posted:

Do not listen to this person. Purchase Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. It will change your life.

Another vote for Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. It's ridiculously good.

Bistromatic
Oct 3, 2004

And turn the inner eye
To see its path...
Count me in on team Tamiya Extra Thin. And use this for an applicator: https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/en/scale-plastics/15-pin-flow-applicator-5060243900456.html

Ayn Marx
Dec 21, 2012



Help me here: what color do I want to paint this flag? The decal I'll use for the chapter symbol in the middle is white.

richyp
Dec 2, 2004

Grumpy old man

Ayn Marx posted:



Help me here: what color do I want to paint this flag? The decal I'll use for the chapter symbol in the middle is white.

My paintdar says go with some yellow (contrasts with green nicely) and red (eye lense colour) but I'm probably wrong.

Dr. Gargunza
May 19, 2011

He damned me for a eunuch,
and my mother for a whore.



Fun Shoe

Z the IVth posted:

Anyone have any nice chaos marauder schemes for me to paint the Shadespire dudes in? Trying to avoid going red, red glorious red!

You could always go with black/super dark grey as your main color, with non-primary accents like purple and green. (My default color schemes for necromancer types are usually based around purple.)
Pro tip: Get yourself a craft store color wheel, use it to pick a 3- or 4-color complimentary scheme, and go to town.

TTerrible
Jul 15, 2005

Shadin posted:

Another vote for Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. It's ridiculously good.

Thirded.

Ayn Marx
Dec 21, 2012

Since it was recommended here a while ago, I tried it and absolutely refuse to use anything else now. It really is a great product.

TTerrible
Jul 15, 2005

Ayn Marx posted:



Help me here: what color do I want to paint this flag? The decal I'll use for the chapter symbol in the middle is white.

What other colours are you using for this chapter? Dark red?

Ayn Marx
Dec 21, 2012

TTerrible posted:

What other colours are you using for this chapter? Dark red?

Dark metal for the chest eagles and greebles, red for the eye lenses, brown for the leather stuff, that's it. Trying to go for a kind of alt WW2 vibe for those Raptors

Kabuki Shipoopi
Jun 22, 2007

If I fall, you don't get the head, right? If you lose the head, you're fucked!

Bistromatic posted:

As a birthday gift for a friend of mine i made some holo effects for his sensor jammer frigates. He'll glue some small magnets in the center and clip them on to show when they activate their ability.



This is so god drat cool it's making me want to play Dropfleet. :negative:

TTerrible
Jul 15, 2005
Dropfleet is extremely cool and good. Play PHR and paint them like Chriss Foss illustrations.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Shadin posted:

Another vote for Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. It's ridiculously good.

Yes this, I want to get rid of my contacta now.

darnon
Nov 8, 2009

TTerrible posted:

Dropfleet is extremely cool and good. Play PHR and paint them like Chriss Foss illustrations.

Exactly this. Eventually I'll get around to more than just my test frigate on the concept.

doingitwrong
Jul 27, 2013
that rules

dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!

darnon posted:

Exactly this. Eventually I'll get around to more than just my test frigate on the concept.



This makes me want to buy another PHR fleet.

I was all about subdued.

Giant Ethicist
Jun 9, 2013

Looks like she got on a loaf of bread instead of a bus again...

TTerrible posted:

Dropfleet is extremely cool and good. Play PHR and paint them like Chriss Foss illustrations.

I'm doing mine that way, filtered through razzle-dazzle:

Pidgin Englishman
Apr 30, 2007

If you shoot
you better hit your mark
Those are some amazing space ships, and my wallet is currently freaking out.

That chris foss like work... :golfclap:

I just finished up a Zu Yong, though, and felt the need to share. (NB: one of the fluff names is 'Terracotta Warriors').




Hot drat do I love heavy infantry. (also space ships)

TTerrible
Jul 15, 2005
Ignore all other concerns, post more Chriss Foss PHR. :staredog:

R0ckfish
Nov 18, 2013
I am continuing my ~1 unit a week progress, at this rate I might be "done" my salamanders in the next month. :v:

R0ckfish posted:

I painted some bling terminators and a chaplain


The termies have so many stupid little rivets everywhere

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Pidgin Englishman posted:

Those are some amazing space ships, and my wallet is currently freaking out.

That chris foss like work... :golfclap:

I just finished up a Zu Yong, though, and felt the need to share. (NB: one of the fluff names is 'Terracotta Warriors').




Hot drat do I love heavy infantry. (also space ships)

Looks awesome, I love the color balance and thrusters on the back.


I'm putting together the shadespire minis and I'm definitely going to want to fill these gaps. Can anyone comment on liquid green stuff as a gap filler? I've only used the putty kind.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
What's a good triad in Vallejo for a kind of leather brown

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wdarkk
Oct 26, 2007

Friends: Protected
World: Saved
Crablettes: Eaten

TTerrible posted:

Ignore all other concerns, post more Chriss Foss PHR. :staredog:

Not mine:



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