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GM is also the company that runs full starter solenoid current through the key switch. So, yeah.
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Oct 23, 2017 04:31
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I think I found my 2011 town car. I'll know tomorrow if I got it or not. Actually thinking about supercharging it and whats involved to deal with CARB/California on that issue. Any good resources on that front. I see a few folks using Kenne Bell kits but they don't officially support their mustang kit in a towncar. /edit Make that Thursday. Found another one that only has 20k miles on it, but I won't know until then which one I'm getting. The seller of the first one doesn't seem to be in too much of a rush to sell it. I'm assuming the TC trunks use a similar profile to the other panther trunks? Could I drop in a CVPI trunk organizer into a TC's lower trunk? I'm trying to track down an OEM trunk organizer [the one with the top lid] but I'm not having much luck. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Oct 25, 2017 |
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Oct 24, 2017 05:55
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I'm actually curious about that as well, because I'd kind of like to use some of the TC trunk upholstery in my CV. My P71 has been throwing a P0300 every few days, which is the "random/multiple cylinder misfire". Before I throw money at a batch of coils, I noted that I used Motorcraft Nickel spark plugs. Was that a mistake? I seem to recall a general disdain for Motorcraft plugs, even in Ford's own poo poo. They're under 20K miles old at this point.
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Oct 28, 2017 01:28
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New coils and whatever NGK equivalent IIRC fixed my misfire codes. Coils were absurdly cheap at like $30-40 for all 8. I had to fashion my own wobble joint though.
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Oct 28, 2017 02:13
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Random misfires was definitely the coils on my '93. Mine was a bit simpler to diagnose though because it happened immediately after driving through a huge puddle at a somewhat excessive speed. That was 11 year old EDIS coils though, so it was sort of expected.
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Oct 28, 2017 03:28
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Right on. Yeah, there are a couple of decently-rated sets of coils on Amazon, 4.5 stars with 400+ reviews, and 4 stars w/ 600+ @ $30 w/ Prime. Might pick up some NGKs while I'm at it for another $22.
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Oct 28, 2017 05:09
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Mine were fine for the first few days I had the car, until my first WOT on-ramp acceleration. I thought the engine or transmission had exploded the misfire was so bad. I should specify, 2008 p71. Now if only I could figure out why the FSS light comes on, but only when it's cold. Warm weather, no issues. Cold weather, code 13 flashed but no DTCs. One person on crownvic.net has experienced the same thing. Abandoned post from March this year. http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3538090 E: I bought this pack of 10 coils for a v10 Triton back when it was nearer to $40  . https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011CV8ZAM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have two spares! Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Oct 28, 2017 |
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Oct 28, 2017 05:25
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I know that there are various lowering springs out there, but does anyone know of any that would impart a slight lift? I've read that the Moog springs can do this, but i was wondering if there was another option, like grabbing some from an F150 or something.
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Oct 28, 2017 15:21
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Achtane posted:I know that there are various lowering springs out there, but does anyone know of any that would impart a slight lift? I've read that the Moog springs can do this, but i was wondering if there was another option, like grabbing some from an F150 or something. I believe the P71 springs are slightly taller than the civilian varieties. There was a guy on CVN way back when that went by "SUVic" and had DIYed his own lift setup to clear some mild all-terrain tires, I'll see if I can find details. edit: http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=780812 No pics but he does mention the spring specs. edit2:   The older one on the left. Your GM is the newer appearance but it's still pretty much the same car underneath. IIRC the chassis/suspension update was '03. wolrah fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Oct 28, 2017 |
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Oct 28, 2017 17:18
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Try farting around here? http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/universal_coil_springs.asp A Moog 5532 has effectively the same spring rate but is 1.6" longer than the stock front spring, so that might get you a bit
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Oct 28, 2017 17:29
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wolrah posted:Your GM is the newer appearance but it's still pretty much the same car underneath. IIRC the chassis/suspension update was '03. I believe that's correct. Whatever the first year of the Marauder is would be the right year, because the Marauder's 32-valve engine is partly why they did it. edit: 2003 is correct, according to my notes for wheels, etc. I swapped in all the Amazon coil packs. Easy, and everything worked, other than breaking the retainer tabs on 4 more of the wiring plugs. Seemed to run fine, but popped the same P0300 67 miles later. I ordered plugs, but they were not available Prime, so I'll swap those in when they get in. Turns out I used Motorcraft "nickel" (copper) plugs when I did them 20K miles ago, so they could very well be the culprit. Got NGK platinums this time. Same price!
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Oct 30, 2017 16:36
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Ugh, I don't have all the stuff to make the rear door handles work. I've got the door panels, switches, handles, and rods. I installed the rods into the latch mechanisms earlier, but I'm missing some sort of metal "interface" piece that links the pin in the door handle itself to the rod. I attempted to make something out of bent wire coat hanger, and it works well, but there's no backing panel to bolt the handle itself to. I've circled the part in red: On mine, it's just a hole. 2008 p71. Ughhhhhhhhh
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Oct 30, 2017 20:21
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Ouch, so the inner frame of the door itself is different on a P71? That seems real weird, they use them for taxi duty often as well, don't they?
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Oct 30, 2017 20:32
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From what I understand you can order the car from ford with the rear doors disabled, which is a $20 option for the fleet purchasers. They normally put the lock rods, that plate, and the door handle rods, along with some of those peel-out rivets, in a baggie kit in the trunk of the car. OR, to save money, the fleet purchasers just can order them normally, and then enable the child locks and/or just cut the linkage rod. I think mine was ordered without working rear interior handles, but that kit is long gone. I can't even find a part number for that interface plate.
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Oct 30, 2017 20:45
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I'm guessing no junkyard near you to pull things from, either. There's a 2010 Crown Vic in the yard about 20 minutes from my house, I can try to get there this weekend and check to see if it has that plate if you like. Looks a little weird, the VIN listed isn't a fleet VIN, but it's painted black and white like a cop car. Either the VIN was entered wrong, the picture is wrong, or some dumbshit painted it to look like a cop car.
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Nov 1, 2017 18:26
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boxen posted:... or some dumbshit painted it to look like a cop car. Fly-by-night "security" company?
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Nov 1, 2017 18:33
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If you do, those three rivets on each plate will need to be drilled/ground out. I think they're the Ford peel out ones, so maybe a screwdriver will work, too. I'll pay ya to ship them over if you do, but if you don't, that's okay too.
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Nov 1, 2017 18:35
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Magnus Praeda posted:Fly-by-night "security" company? Yeah, could be. There aren't any lights that I see from the picture, and I can't tell anything about the interior other than it has grey front buckets. The wheels aren't on it, but it does have the black grille.
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Nov 1, 2017 18:40
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Huh. My 2005 had the door handles in the panel, and that mechanism, just no actuator rods for that or the locks. For that matter, it didn't have the lock knob, since that's just a plastic bit on the end of one of the aforementioned rods. I got the rods out of a Grand Marquis. Had to chisel and/or gnaw off the damned rivet that the lock rods use as a pivot because I forgot to throw my drill bits in the tool bag. Replaced said rivet with an M6 bolt and nylock nut, I believe, on reinstall. I saw a few of the linkage bundles for sale for stupid money on eBay when I was looking.
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Nov 1, 2017 21:50
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Cross-post from What You Did thread: Changed the spark plugs in the Crown Vic P71. I'm no good at reading plugs, but the old Motorcraft nickel/copper plugs don't look that bad:  They all measured out OK at .054-.056 gap. Spec is .054". Most were at that. Hopefully fixes P0300 code, along with the new coils. Interestingly, the set code that turned on the MIL from my previous post turned out to be the gas cap. Mine has the bayonet-style retainer, and it's surprisingly easy to get it on the tightly, but crooked. It did have a pending P0300 as well, though.
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Nov 2, 2017 23:55
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Oh jeeze, even a $50 Kenwood deck is 5x the sound quality versus the stock radio. Normally I don't care so much (which is why I had the wired FM modulator) but I had Amazon credit and decided to splurge. Even the stock speakers sound pretty good now.
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Nov 3, 2017 06:18
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Oh jeeze, even a $50 Kenwood deck is 5x the sound quality versus the stock radio. Normally I don't care so much (which is why I had the wired FM modulator) but I had Amazon credit and decided to splurge. Even the stock speakers sound pretty good now. Right? I posted in one of the other threads but I finally swapped my Kenwood into mine and stuff played over bluetooth sounds fantastic. I had actually thought the stock speakers were blown, but nope. FM signal is still garbage though. I've been educated about aux antennas but meh, stations are poo poo around here anyway. That said, there was an antenna screwed onto my trunk lid when I got it, the threaded fitting is still there on the sheet metal. Removing that antenna didn't make my FM signal worse so it was probably for removed CB/cop radio equipment, but I wonder if it could be repurposed to augment the windshield-integrated one.
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Nov 3, 2017 07:50
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Got my panther. Selling my old 98 Continental to a friend, and got a 2011 Towncar Signature-L. One owner, 50k miles, mint shape. Has a tiny door ding but I'm getting a paintless dent guy to fix it next week. Got new coils, new tags/plates and brand new Michelin's on it. Now I have to investigate to see if the CV/MGM truck organizer will fit in a town car trunk slot. My understanding the rear ends are identical on the L and Non L TC's, it's just the 6 inches around the rear door and B pillar that's stretched out. Keeping it stock but it's got the base level 6 cd changer head unit, so I'd like to swap that for a aftermarket navigation panel that retains the steering wheel/rear audio controls.
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Nov 4, 2017 04:53
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:If you do, those three rivets on each plate will need to be drilled/ground out. I think they're the Ford peel out ones, so maybe a screwdriver will work, too. I'll pay ya to ship them over if you do, but if you don't, that's okay too. Got'em. They were actually just attached with an Allen head screw and nut. You don't need the rods, right?
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Nov 4, 2017 21:52
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Cool beans! PayPal or gwallet? You don't seem to have PMs, so my email is klintor at the gmail. I don't need the rods.
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Nov 4, 2017 |
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Nov 4, 2017 21:57
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Cool beans! PayPal or gwallet? You don't seem to have PMs, so my email is REDACTED. I don't need the rods.  You have an email. boxen fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Nov 6, 2017 |
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Nov 4, 2017 22:56
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If feasible, I'll make a 3d printable bracket. Seems simple enough, just need dimensions. Not for the working latch obviously, but something that would work for people in my situation. Lotta p71s out there without functioning rear door handles, judging by forum posts
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Nov 5, 2017 |
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Nov 5, 2017 03:29
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New coils and plugs (probably more the plugs, if I'm honest, since they were 20K mile copper plugs) seems to have fixed my P0300 code. Several hundred miles over the weekend with no CEL or pending code.
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Nov 6, 2017 16:58
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boxen posted:
Package is inbound.
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Nov 6, 2017 22:59
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Arrived and installed! While I was in there, I found the original power window switches zip-tied to the inner door, and installed them. I now have fully functioning doors and windows. It's a real car!
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Nov 8, 2017 22:01
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Arrived and installed! While I was in there, I found the original power window switches zip-tied to the inner door, and installed them. I now have fully functioning doors and windows. It's a real car! reposting from the WDYDTYRT thread: Darchangel posted:I think that the way that the actual handles interface with the mechanism is clever - it doesn't require either popping the inside handle through the door panel, or disconnecting rods.
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Nov 9, 2017 23:10
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I posted there, too. In addition, I should mention that the rear seatbelts weren't removed or cut, either. They were neatly folded up behind the C-pillar plastic trim and zip-tied using the same color of zip ties that the rear window switches used (pink). I also have a green rocker switch above each front seat shoulder loop, near the ceiling. Flipping the switch on either side grounds out something, (I've traced one side of the switch to ground), causing the rear power windows to not work. So, to use them, I have to have both switches in a certain position. As a fun aside! When the rear windows are "disabled" with the switches, if I move them using the driver's side controls, enough noise backfeeds into the accessory circuit that my cellphone charger (12V port tapped off of where the original 12V port would be, but I'm missing that little cupholder/cubby) crashes/stops working and causes a lot of audio noise if my cellphone is plugged into the aux port on the stereo.
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Nov 9, 2017 23:38
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That’s weird. Cop cars can be fun to figure out what the outfitter hacked up. I got lucky with mine in that it never had a lot in it, apparently. Only one hole in the roof, and they appear to have actually used the Ford provided power plug. I’ve not found any jacked wiring yet. I do still have Xenon strobes (not connected) in the original taillights (no longer on the car, I got LED assemblies), and had holes for same in the front side markers, also since replaced.
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Nov 10, 2017 17:44
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2008 P71. What front struts should I get? I've gathered that, for the rear, I should get something like these Monroe 550018 Gas-Magnum shock absorbers. But, for the front, I see both complete kits with bearings, struts, and everything in-between. Are strut assemblies easier to install, since you don't have to disassemble the whole thing? Or is it the same with a spring compressor either way? I've done suspension bits on a 1998 CR-V, multiple ACVWs, and small throwaway cars like mid-90's Geos. Haven't tackled anything as...large as a crown vic, though. I do have some spring compressors, ball-joint pullers, etc on hand from previous stuff. I've been porpoising on bumps recently, and I think at 165k miles it's time to change them out. I also get stuck in ruts a lot and track all over the road in certain lanes on the freeways around here, but the tie rod ends are completely solid. To be fair, on these roads/lanes, I also see the cars in front of me do the same thing, so  . But new suspension consumables can't hurt.I'm trying to do a bunch of stuff to this car so that, barring an accident, I can carry this through at least the next two or three years of just puttering to school without major maintenance. Hence new coils/belts/pulleys/plugs/filters (all of them) a few months back. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Dec 12, 2017 |
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Dec 12, 2017 05:12
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On the one car I've ever done struts on (Mazdaspeed3), I immediately regretted not buying new mounts and upper bearings as soon as I took the old ones apart. If there's a quick strut with a good strut in it available, I'd just do that. Gets you all new parts and you don't have to gently caress with spring compressors.
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Dec 12, 2017 15:23
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Well, the 2004+ CV is basically a coilover, not really a strut. I've heard that the springs are pretty stout, since they are so short and on a fairly short lever arm, so be prepared for that. It doesn't have to turn, and it's basically mounted like a shock, so the strut top is a lot less complicated that a McPherson, and doesn't have near as much rubber in it. You can get just the top bushing for cheap, rather than replacing the whole top. The strut top is just a chunk of stamped and welded steel with studs. A complete assembly with spring is only about $60 (each) more than the strut itself on Rock Auto, so I guess it's how much is your time worth. I'd expect the springs to be fine at 165K. I've not done mine yet, so no experience, I'm afraid. I'd like to get 2" lower springs for mine.Oddly enough, my struts and shocks seem to be fine @ 175K miles. I wonder if maybe they were replaced some time in it's service life? I just did the struts on my wife's Kia, and they were dead at 130K. If it were me with your car, I'd probably do the struts, probably KYB, and a top bushing replacement. Forsome reason, the Gabriel, KYB, and Moog bushings are listed under the "Strut Mount" section on Rock Auto, while the Sachs is actually under "Strut Bearing".
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Dec 12, 2017 16:22
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Thanks a bunch for the info. On our ambulances (which are big trucks, of course) the service life for suspension components was about 60k miles (though they waited sometimes 200k to replace them, or more), and I hear the "100k mile service life" on oem suspension components often enough. But yeah, my CV is definitely bouncing a bit too much, with no equipment in it. Push on the bumper and it's 2 big bounces before it settles instead of the "down, kssssh, leveled-out" that good struts/shocks do.
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Dec 12, 2017 17:07
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If I remember correctly from doing lower ball joints on my 2005 you shouldn't need a spring compressor either, with the front at full droop the spring should be basically unloaded.
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Dec 12, 2017 18:01
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Huh. Fiddled with the vac hoses and unplugged, inspected (meaning I eyeballed it, and blew on it like a Nintendo cartridge), and replugged the electrical connector on the EGR module, CEL hasn't come back since, and no pending codes so far, after about 50 miles of driving. Here's hoping.
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Jan 2, 2018 15:17
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One of the rear air bags on my 93 Town Car decided to quit holding air...and the cold snap here in the east pushed the compressor to the point that it would blow a fuse constantly. So I decided to give the coil conversion kit a try - Amazon has the kit from Monroe for $135 (roughly the cost of the compressor), so I bit the bullet and ditched the air ride. And while it doesn't have the "float" like it did before, I'm happy with the ride and handling so far. Would recommend if you have an air system on the way out but not the money or desire to replace everything. Next on the repairs list - blend door actuator, replacing the o rings in the EATC so I have defrost & floor modes once more, and the blower motor resistor (only works on high). Aside from that, only big issue needing attention is for my mechanic - the valve seals. Thankfully it isn't too bad yet...only wisps from a stoplight and not mosquito fogging.
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Jan 3, 2018 05:03
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