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Winter is coming. All my doors are starting to squeal. What's the best type of grease to jam into the hinges?
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Oct 19, 2017 03:13
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| # ? May 28, 2024 00:39 |
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TheBananaKing posted:Winter is coming. All my doors are starting to squeal. What's the best type of grease to jam into the hinges? There are teflon lubes that spray on wet and wick into tight spots, then dry so they don’t collect dust.
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Oct 19, 2017 03:24
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TheBananaKing posted:Winter is coming. All my doors are starting to squeal. What's the best type of grease to jam into the hinges? Interior doors? WD-40 is inexpensive, simple, and you get the forbidden pleasure that is a whiff of that magic.
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Oct 19, 2017 03:43
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Zahgaegun posted:Interior doors? WD-40 is inexpensive, simple, and you get the forbidden pleasure that is a whiff of that magic. Yes, interior. I love to inhale that magical smell but WD-40 likes to drip out and make a mess and it also doesn't seem to last more than a season before the squealing returns. The Teflon spray mentioned by eddiewalker sounds very appealing to me. Probably gonna try to find some of that.
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Oct 19, 2017 04:18
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PremiumSupport posted:Can't help with the no water problem, but I do know how your handheld thingie is supposed to work. Directly opposite to where the flex pipe joins your shower riser is a silver nob. It's supposed to move in and out to divert water flow from the shower to the handheld. If it hasn't been used in a while and your water has any hardness at all it can take a bit of effort or chemical (CLR or Lime Away) help to break the scale and get it moving again. That's awesome, thanks! We tried turning that at some point but just unscrewed it so we kinda gave up.
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Oct 19, 2017 20:17
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Zahgaegun posted:Interior doors? WD-40 is inexpensive, simple, and you get the forbidden pleasure that is a whiff of that magic. Oh god are you trying to trigger the "Well, WD-40 isn't lube" crowd?
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Oct 19, 2017 20:48
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Oh god are you trying to trigger the "Well, WD-40 isn't lube" crowd? WD-40 isn't lube, you fuckers. Go to Home Depot and it's a couple bucks for a can of their store brand Teflon spray: http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Window-and-Door-Lube-HDX-WDL/204387980 I've been using it on my 1910's house, fixing door hinge squeaks, and I can even use the straw to spray it all up in the door knob / keyholes to give them a buttery smooth action. It leaves a harmless white residue that you gotta wipe away with a cloth when you're done but it doesn't stain. Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Oct 19, 2017 |
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Oct 19, 2017 21:22
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My girlfriend got sick of waiting for me to lube our squeaky doors and used Pam cooking spray. It worked perfectly until we sold the house a couple years later..
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Oct 19, 2017 23:21
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Slugworth posted:My girlfriend got sick of waiting for me to lube our squeaky doors and used Pam cooking spray. Yeah vegetable oil all turns sticky with time, I wouldn't do that... The quickest way to remove stuck-on-oil is with more oil... spray with PAM again, work it in, then spray in a degreaser, then use Teflon spray to do it right.
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Oct 20, 2017 00:03
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How does the Teflon spray smell though? +1 WD40 booyah Kidding of course, I've got no horse in this game. Slugworth posted:My girlfriend got sick of waiting for me to lube our squeaky doors and used Pam cooking spray. Was it flavored Pam? What about a hinge that very slowly grinds something that smells good so every time you opened the door you'd release a whiff of something nice? Someone set up a kickstarter let's bring this to market.
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Oct 20, 2017 01:29
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Zahgaegun posted:How does the Teflon spray smell though? +1 WD40 booyah Ooh, I vote cinnamon and vanilla.
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Oct 20, 2017 19:08
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We have this condensate pump attached to our downstairs AC unit. It is in our pantry, plugged into a GFCI outlet on its own breaker, nothing else is on the outlet. Just recently the GFCI has started tripping for no apparent reason. First time was a couple of weeks ago, I was greeted with a pool of water in the pantry as a result. Second time was today, same deal. Resetting the outlet seems to restore functionality just fine. I've flushed the lines with some bleach already just to be certain. Doing some light research on the problem, some people have implied that high humidity can sometimes trigger a trip. I live in southern Louisiana, so high humidity is the standard, but that doesn't explain why this is suddenly happening now instead of the previous 3 years we have lived here. Any ideas or should I get an electrician involved? I could always swap the outlet to a regular plug, but I don't believe that's code in this case
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Oct 21, 2017 15:45
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couldcareless posted:I could always swap the outlet to a regular plug, but I don't believe that's code in this case How about replacing it with another GFCI plug and see if the problem returns?
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Oct 21, 2017 15:51
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Mister Kingdom posted:How about replacing it with another GFCI plug and see if the problem returns? I might give that a shot. I have spare new GFCI on hand already
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Oct 21, 2017 15:57
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couldcareless posted:We have this condensate pump attached to our downstairs AC unit. It is in our pantry, plugged into a GFCI outlet on its own breaker, nothing else is on the outlet. How old is the pump? Appliances with big electric motors can sometimes fool GFCIs with false positives. Appliance manufacturers started getting better at preventing that from happening around 2004. Replace the GFCI first, then if it still happens, replace the pump.
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Oct 21, 2017 18:26
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kid sinister posted:How old is the pump? Appliances with big electric motors can sometimes fool GFCIs with false positives. Appliance manufacturers started getting better at preventing that from happening around 2004. Was here when we got the house. If I had to guess, at least 6 years old. I will take this into consideration
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Oct 21, 2017 18:28
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I have an outlet on the back of my house that I'd like to run a set of string lights from to the corner of my garage, its pretty close. What I would like is some kind of setup where the things turn themselves on and off when it gets dark/light. Suggestions?
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Oct 21, 2017 21:40
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couldcareless posted:We have this condensate pump attached to our downstairs AC unit. It is in our pantry, plugged into a GFCI outlet on its own breaker, nothing else is on the outlet. Replace the GFCI outlet and hook up the drat float switch! You should have a set of wires coming off the condensate pump. Find the common in your air handler. Disconnect it. Connect one side to one of the wires. Connect the other to where the common used to go. Now when the pump fails it turns off your air handler so you know something is wrong and stop making condensate before your pantry floods.
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Oct 21, 2017 23:07
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The float switch is in place actually. I think the problem is the pump is mounted on the wall using the supplied metal brackets and the well is sagging away from the pump cover so water is leaking out of the reservoir before it triggers the float switch. Probably more of a reason to replace the pump to be honest.
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Oct 21, 2017 23:27
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So I want to caulk some cracks in my concrete foundation and concrete garage floor. Online says "urethane caulk." Is this just regular silicone caulk? Like the same stuff you would use for the bathroom? Also is urethane caulk and polyurethane caulk any different?
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Oct 21, 2017 23:42
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codo27 posted:I have an outlet on the back of my house that I'd like to run a set of string lights from to the corner of my garage, its pretty close. What I would like is some kind of setup where the things turn themselves on and off when it gets dark/light. Suggestions? https://www.amazon.com/Woods-2001WD...oor+light+timer
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Oct 21, 2017 23:43
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I'm doing some demo to open up my dining room to my kitchen, and in an attempt to not end up in the Crappy Construction Tales thread (or the obituaries when my house inevitably collapses on me), I've come looking for advice. This is what I have to work with. On the left, there is a 10x4 beam running across a 9 ft span to the wall. I would like to do the same thing on the right, which is about a 6.5 ft span:  (green is existing, red is what I would add) The problem with this is the goddamn chimney is in the way:  I could fit a single 10x2 across, but I don't think that's exactly a great idea. I also don't think there are hangers I could use to run a second 10x2 to the chimney and use that for support, but that still sounds like a bad idea anyways. I'd like to keep this as open as possible, so is there a way to do this and only keep the single post in the middle, or do I have to settle for two small windows on either side of the chimney? Edit: If it's not clear, the plan is to clean and repoint the chimney and leave it exposed.
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Oct 22, 2017 03:13
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lol internet. posted:So I want to caulk some cracks in my concrete foundation and concrete garage floor. Online says "urethane caulk." They're talking about polyurethane caulk. It's different than silicone caulk. The difference is mostly in how much it can stretch and how well it will bond. Just like painting, good caulk results is all about prep work. Wash out those cracks. You want the caulk to stick to the concrete, not to the dust and loose concrete on the sides of the crack. There's other differences between caulk types too. The big one is how easy they are to clean up. One more is that some don't stick well to certain surfaces. Another one is that paint won't stick to some, like the majority of silicone caulks. another thing about caulks! Caulk very much has a shelf life! Once you open a tube, the clock is ticking. Now it is a very long life (months), but it is still finite. You don't want to pull out a tube like 2 whole years after you used it last and put down a new line of it, only to discover that it won't cure and you have to clean it out of that crack all by hand. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Oct 22, 2017 |
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Oct 22, 2017 16:52
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Stupid double post
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Oct 22, 2017 16:59
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Wow, triple post
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Oct 22, 2017 17:00
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codo27 posted:I have an outlet on the back of my house that I'd like to run a set of string lights from to the corner of my garage, its pretty close. What I would like is some kind of setup where the things turn themselves on and off when it gets dark/light. Suggestions? We use this one, I liked that it had a way to easily keep things off the ground. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H7VXXV2/
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Oct 22, 2017 17:19
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KillHour posted:I'm doing some demo to open up my dining room to my kitchen, and in an attempt to not end up in the Crappy Construction Tales thread (or the obituaries when my house inevitably collapses on me), I've come looking for advice. Why do you think a 10x2 across 6.5 feet is a bad idea? Am I missing something?
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Oct 22, 2017 18:52
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It's an internal load bearing wall (the floor above it is on it) and I'm not sure a single 2x10 is enough. If it is, awesome.
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Oct 22, 2017 19:24
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codo27 posted:I have an outlet on the back of my house that I'd like to run a set of string lights from to the corner of my garage, its pretty close. What I would like is some kind of setup where the things turn themselves on and off when it gets dark/light. Suggestions? That's going to run up your power bills while you're sleeping. I suggest one with a timer ability built in like some people already linked.
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Oct 22, 2017 20:28
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codo27 posted:I have an outlet on the back of my house that I'd like to run a set of string lights from to the corner of my garage, its pretty close. What I would like is some kind of setup where the things turn themselves on and off when it gets dark/light. Suggestions? There are landscape light transformers that will do this for you, if you are running 12v lights. The one I have is on an outlet that I have on a timer inside, so I set it to turn on at like 3 PM and off at 11 PM. The transformer has a light sensor and several settings. Mine is set to "on" all the time when it's dark enough. This means my lights turn on when it gets dark (no messing with them as it gets dark earlier in the day) and always off at 11. It and many others has another mode where light will turn on at dark and then off again in 2, 4 or 6 hours. At least I think that's what mine does. You might want to use something like that, since it won't require you to do any rewiring to put a timer on the outlet. Although, I'm pretty sure I've seen weatherproof/outdoor plug-through timers.
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Oct 22, 2017 22:38
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Motronic posted:It and many others has another mode where light will turn on at dark and then off again in 2, 4 or 6 hours. At least I think that's what mine does. You might want to use something like that, since it won't require you to do any rewiring to put a timer on the outlet. That's what the one I linked does. It's allegedly UL rated for outdoor use, light sensor turns it on at dusk then off N hours later or at dawn. It got rained on and the house didn't burn down nor did the gfci outlet trip. It's 120vac with 3 outlets for plugging in Christmas lights.
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Oct 22, 2017 22:57
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H110Hawk posted:That's what the one I linked does. It's allegedly UL rated for outdoor use, light sensor turns it on at dusk then off N hours later or at dawn. It got rained on and the house didn't burn down nor did the gfci outlet trip. Oh nice. Didn't see your post. That should do the trick.
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Oct 23, 2017 00:18
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Not sure if this is the best place to ask... But I've got a latex gorilla mask for Halloween and I was wondering if there was a good way to fill it out a little, like with expanding foam, so it doesn't crumple in and look so limp and sad. I know, I should have just stuck with the horse mask...
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Oct 23, 2017 02:59
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OSU_Matthew posted:Not sure if this is the best place to ask... But I've got a latex gorilla mask for Halloween and I was wondering if there was a good way to fill it out a little, like with expanding foam, so it doesn't crumple in and look so limp and sad. Go to a craft store like joann and buy foam or something you can cut out and pack in. Bring the mask and they might be able to help you pick something.
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Oct 23, 2017 03:28
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kid sinister posted:another thing about caulks! Caulk very much has a shelf life! Once you open a tube, the clock is ticking. Now it is a very long life (months), but it is still finite. You don't want to pull out a tube like 2 whole years after you used it last and put down a new line of it, only to discover that it won't cure and you have to clean it out of that crack all by hand. Pro-tip. If you do this with a full tube of black silicone and cut the tube open to see what it looks like and your mother in law comes over at that exact moment to see you studiously examining a 13" length of floppy black rubber you'll have some great questions to answer.
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Oct 23, 2017 10:39
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OSU_Matthew posted:Not sure if this is the best place to ask... But I've got a latex gorilla mask for Halloween and I was wondering if there was a good way to fill it out a little, like with expanding foam, so it doesn't crumple in and look so limp and sad. If you're not wearing it? Use a balloon.
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Oct 23, 2017 14:09
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I have some dumbbells that I want to hang on some drywall. My plan is to screw a strip of plywood (blue) to the studs and hang the dumbbells (red) by pegs/hooks (green) screwed into the plywood. There will probably be ~100lbs worth of dumbbells hanging off the plywood that should be fastened to 4-5 studs. I assume this won't be anywhere heavy enough to really worry that it would rip the board off the wall, right?
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Oct 23, 2017 15:08
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OSU_Matthew posted:Not sure if this is the best place to ask... But I've got a latex gorilla mask for Halloween and I was wondering if there was a good way to fill it out a little, like with expanding foam, so it doesn't crumple in and look so limp and sad. I've heard positive things about Cialis
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Oct 23, 2017 15:26
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OSU_Matthew posted:Not sure if this is the best place to ask... But I've got a latex gorilla mask for Halloween and I was wondering if there was a good way to fill it out a little, like with expanding foam, so it doesn't crumple in and look so limp and sad. There's a cosplay thread that may be able to help with this kind of question https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3473045 Also, I have a latex chestpiece for a costume that I wanted to fill out and I used pillow foam from the craft store and contact cement. Worked great for the most part. I did have some area that were wavy, and the foam didn't work so well in making it flat, so on those I glued foam paper on just to give a little extra stiffness. So it's still flexible but is now shaped right.
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Oct 23, 2017 15:36
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| # ? May 28, 2024 00:39 |
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Mr Executive posted:I have some dumbbells that I want to hang on some drywall. My plan is to screw a strip of plywood (blue) to the studs and hang the dumbbells (red) by pegs/hooks (green) screwed into the plywood. There will probably be ~100lbs worth of dumbbells hanging off the plywood that should be fastened to 4-5 studs. I assume this won't be anywhere heavy enough to really worry that it would rip the board off the wall, right? As long as you're using good quality wood screws (not cheap drywall screws) your design should work just fine for the amount of weight you intend to put on it. 
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Oct 23, 2017 15:48
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