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Hypnolobster posted:Also, if you're having feeding problems it helps a giant amount to wax the bed. Holy gently caress this worked like goddamned WIZARDRY. How often do you find you need to reapply the wax? Not that it matters, that took like five minutes, even if I have to do it weekly it's worth it.
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Oct 21, 2017 06:53
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Javid posted:Holy gently caress this worked like goddamned WIZARDRY. Haha, it really is unexpectedly amazing. I usually throw a little wax on the bed relatively half-assedly before I plane any kind of significant volume. Wax everything that wood slides on. It makes such a dramatic difference. Tablesaws, bandsaws, jointers, hand planes and anything else you can think of. I have cheap Johnsons paste wax for most machines (or Blaster advanced dry lube) and little chunks of beeswax for handtools all over my shop.
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Oct 21, 2017 15:06
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 I'm using a 12" disc sander an all my miters have about a 1/32 high spot in the center. I have never mitered something this tall on a disc sander, this normal? Im going to flat them down with a block.
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Oct 21, 2017 18:13
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Does the miter have a cupped shape? If your disc is beveled it will remove more material at the center by a small amount and won't sand an actual totally flat shape. Here's an explanation- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PgZogasa13Q&t=167s
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Oct 21, 2017 19:28
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The disc surface travels further (and thus abrades more) the further away it is from the center of the disc.
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Oct 22, 2017 02:29
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I got a new garage, so I built a workbench Also managed to pick up and restore some nice tools over the past couple months  Full Album: https://imgur.com/a/qkdXP
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Oct 22, 2017 14:47
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What do you do when there's no time to make a planned birthday gift for someone because of other giant projects? Make a tiny model placeholder gift instead! e: it should really be easier to get pictures linked on mobile. Good lord. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Oct 22, 2017 |
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Oct 22, 2017 15:34
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Amazon has a lightning deal on the Makita track saw right now, not sure how long the deal will last, but $60 off was enough to get me to finally pull the trigger.
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Oct 22, 2017 15:55
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GEMorris posted:Amazon has a lightning deal on the Makita track saw right now, not sure how long the deal will last, but $60 off was enough to get me to finally pull the trigger. Same here. Woke up to a notification on my phone that it was on sale and grabbed it. I am pretty excited about it. With cooler weather and work slowing down it is a great time to knock out some projects.
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Oct 22, 2017 16:13
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I have my miters dialed, round overs added, and biscuit slots cut. My plan is to do the first heavy coat of waterlox before assembly and glue up, then do the successive lighter coats with the boards in place. I have never finished miters like this and I'm concerned I will get a dark strip at the corner of the miter where there is end grain as the waterlox wicks in. I have a few things I can treat the end grain with (pre stain conditioner, spar varnish, titebond 1 and 2 ...) but it occurred to me that anything I use will limit glue absorption into the fibers. Suggestions? Maybe mask a 1/4" strip around all the visible edges, seal the end grain there, and then leave most of the miter naked wood for glue up? The mahogany was pricey so I'm trying not to gently caress up on the last step  
asmasm fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Oct 22, 2017 |
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Oct 22, 2017 18:05
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asmasm posted:I have my miters dialed, round overs added, and biscuit slots cut. My plan is to do the first heavy coat of waterlox before assembly and glue up, then do the successive lighter coats with the boards in place. I have never finished miters like this and I'm concerned I will get a dark strip at the corner of the miter where there is end grain as the waterlox wicks in. I have a few things I can treat the end grain with (pre stain conditioner, spar varnish, titebond 1 and 2 ...) but it occurred to me that anything I use will limit glue absorption into the fibers. Suggestions? Maybe mask a 1/4" strip around all the visible edges, seal the end grain there, and then leave most of the miter naked wood for glue up? The mahogany was pricey so I'm trying not to gently caress up on the last step The only place where the glue will matter will be the biscuits. You can't expect glue to do anything on a mitered joint (like that) that will get any stress beyond looking at it sideways.
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Oct 22, 2017 18:48
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If you glue the miter, let it soak in a bit, then reapply glue and clamp you will have a stronger joint than if you just glued the biscuit, will try to find the study later, but it's not "nothing"
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Oct 22, 2017 19:04
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FYI, I just learned that you can get one on one training at Rockler for $25/hour on whatever you want to learn about.
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Oct 22, 2017 23:19
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Slowly working my way to getting the joinery done for a big 8' dining table.  Legs (vertical) are 3 7/16" square, the horizontal legs/trestle are 3 3/4" for a little reveal. Felt weird doing one giant square tenon, so I worked out a double tenon (3/4 x 2 7/8!) today.
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Oct 23, 2017 00:55
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GEMorris posted:If you glue the miter, let it soak in a bit, then reapply glue and clamp you will have a stronger joint than if you just glued the biscuit, will try to find the study later, but it's not "nothing" Thanks, I took this advice and applied a very thin smear of titebond 2 on the miters. I'll lightly rough them again before assembly and glue up.
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Oct 23, 2017 01:04
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I don’t think he meant for you to let it fully dry.
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Oct 23, 2017 01:28
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Hypnolobster posted:Slowly working my way to getting the joinery done for a big 8' dining table. That's pretty awesome.
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Oct 23, 2017 02:28
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Bad Munki posted:I don’t think he meant for you to let it fully dry. Yeah, I didn't, just that you let the first coat seep in, and then add some more once it starts to set a bit. Although I've never tested letting it fully dry, so let us know how it goes!
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Oct 23, 2017 04:27
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Anyone have experience constructing a cutting board? I took a 6 month carpentry vocational course 2 years ago. It was 6 hours a day, so I learned a lot, and I have experience with furniture building. The plan is to cut the board into the shape of Texas...
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Oct 23, 2017 15:39
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The basics of cutting boards aren't terribly complicated. Cut boards into strips, rotate those strips to expose the end grain, then glue them together. There's tons of videos / howtos showing different neat patterns you can assemble this way. The main thing is to be as precise as possible while cutting your strips and doing the glue-up. Any irregularities in the surface are gonna take a long time to sand down; forget using a hand planer.
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Oct 23, 2017 15:51
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I'm making a table out of mahogany strips 1 1/2" thick and about 2" wide. I got the 4 top sections glued up (2 halves and 2 leafs). I was so proud of myself for using biscuits to align them. Then realized how long sanding was going to take to level even the small misalignments so decided to build a router planing sled. Good thing I did because it turns out I got some twist in the table segments somehow so I'll be routing that out tonight I guess. Building that router sled was an excuse to buy a 1 1/2" straight cut router bit at least. Man, that thing's big.
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Oct 23, 2017 15:58
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Gounads posted:I got a new garage, so I built a workbench Nice work, and good tool finds! Where'd you get them? I think my No 8 is my favorite plane. Big beast that makes stuff dead flat. It's usually the last plane to hit my boards before joinery, so it's associated with that "loving done, finally" feeling. My first frame-and-panel glue-up. Square joinery is super important when twelve joints, plus all the panel T&Gs, have to fit at once. I'm pretty pleased this came together with only a little fussing on the bottom rail. 
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Oct 23, 2017 23:06
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Dennis McClaren posted:Anyone have experience constructing a cutting board? Texas will result in a large amount of scrap wood. I would suggest making Colorado or Wyoming.
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Oct 23, 2017 23:34
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I cheat on my cutting boards and run them through the thickness planer after they're fully glued to eliminate any uneven rows. Fucks up the edges but if you're cutting it down anyway, that works.
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Oct 23, 2017 23:41
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lwoodio posted:Texas will result in a large amount of scrap wood. I would suggest making Colorado or Wyoming. Thread title
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Oct 23, 2017 23:56
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Any timber frame nerds out there should check out "Secrets of the Forbidden City" on PBS (http://www.pbs.org/video/secrets-of-the-forbidden-city-1o8igy/). Pretty amazing video of a model timber frame resisting huge earthquake forces, thanks to a friction-fit-but-still-technically-floating bracket to join timbers with the roof structure (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dougong).
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Oct 24, 2017 01:18
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What's the name for the non-lego version of this type of hinge? Where it's entirely flat and hinges along that plane rather than perpendicular to the parts that get screwed into the door and frame. I've SEEN them, but have no idea what to call them, and they're not called what the Lego one is ("Hinge plate") so that was a dead end.
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Oct 24, 2017 06:06
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Those are knife hinges.
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Oct 24, 2017 06:09
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Javid posted:I cheat on my cutting boards and run them through the thickness planer after they're fully glued to eliminate any uneven rows. Fucks up the edges but if you're cutting it down anyway, that works. Sounds like it’s not an issue for you but you can prevent the hosed up/chipped edged by having some kind of throw away framing buffer, I think I read...
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Oct 24, 2017 06:23
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Yeah, you could glue some crap wood to the ends for that purpose. I just shaved a kerf off each edge to eliminate the worst of it and the corners got routed regardless so problem solved.
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Oct 24, 2017 06:31
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Javid posted:I cheat on my cutting boards and run them through the thickness planer after they're fully glued to eliminate any uneven rows. Fucks up the edges but if you're cutting it down anyway, that works. Yeah, I'm not sure why you'd fuss with any other way... I run it through the planer and then square the edges at the table saw. I'm not sure what you mean by screwed up edges though. I rout the edges with a roundover bit.
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Oct 24, 2017 13:34
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ColdPie posted:Nice work, and good tool finds! Where'd you get them? I think my No 8 is my favorite plane. Big beast that makes stuff dead flat. It's usually the last plane to hit my boards before joinery, so it's associated with that "loving done, finally" feeling. Mostly here: https://brimfieldantiquefleamarket.com/ I was amazed by how much I found. Got a bunch of other random stuff too. If anyone lives in NE, it's a great source, next one in May.
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Oct 24, 2017 15:12
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xwing posted:Yeah, I'm not sure why you'd fuss with any other way... I run it through the planer and then square the edges at the table saw. I'm not sure what you mean by screwed up edges though. I rout the edges with a roundover bit. The trailing edge will get chips further down the side than the router bit will clean up so I have to shave a little bit off.
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Oct 24, 2017 18:35
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I have a question about screws, specifically what do you use and where do you get them? Personally I can't stand phillips so I try and stick to either robertson or star drive. I'm also in agreement with John Heisz that drywall screws should be left to holding up drywall, not being used in woodworking. So that means I usually end up springing for smaller containers of more expensive screws (like the Power Pro/GRK knockoffs at Lowes). Still, I feel like there's got to be a better/cheaper place to get decent screws but... 
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Oct 24, 2017 19:41
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I'm frequently at odds with my boss who wants to use cheap drywall screws for everything and I want to use literally anything else. He hates impact drivers, hates any kind of torque setting for driving screws, and thinks pilot holes are a waste of time, so he's constantly splitting boards or leaving little philips-shaped divots in things when that lovely bit cams out and gouges the wood he's working on, while my and my impact gun and square-head screws are just brrt brrt brrt done. I use the little boxes of Kreg pocket screws Home Depot sells for most things I can. Would love to find something cheaper, though.
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Oct 24, 2017 19:58
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I order star- or square-drive screws off of Amazon. They're still not as cheap as Phillips-head, but they're cheaper than I've seen at my local Home Depot, and the selection is far greater.
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Oct 24, 2017 20:06
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My go-to everything screw is these, in a few different sizes: https://www.lowes.com/pd/5-lb-9-x-2-5-in-Countersinking-Head-Polymer-Coated-Star-Drive-Deck-Screws/3240874 Self tapping, star drive, good for inside and outside, good strong grip. Also the bulk boxes of kreg screws I have around, but I prefer the above for the general purpose "make these tubafors stick together" type work.
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Oct 24, 2017 20:09
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Bad Munki posted:My go-to everything screw is these, in a few different sizes: https://www.lowes.com/pd/5-lb-9-x-2-5-in-Countersinking-Head-Polymer-Coated-Star-Drive-Deck-Screws/3240874 Same. Torx for life.
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Oct 24, 2017 20:52
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If the screw is going to be visible I use flat drive screws, properly countersunk. Otherwise I use GRK or Spax screws.
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Oct 25, 2017 01:17
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Nothing fancy, but I finished my first box joint... box. Lots of gaps, crudely filled with sawdust and glue, but I'm satisfied enough for the first time out. Next one will be dovetails, and less rushed.
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Oct 25, 2017 05:23
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