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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:... fair point, but I'd figure "roadside rescue" would also be carrying some basic tools, a booster pack, a compressor, a gas can... https://www.forbes.com/sites/peterhigh/2017/10/23/allstate-technology-chief-develops-the-uber-of-roadside-assistance/#2653b82348b7 8 digit revenue lift.
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Oct 25, 2017 11:29
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A 2-inch flake of paint came off my W124's valve cover and it is irritating the poo poo out of me as the rest is perfect. I can't find a matching high temp paint. Can I get away with a splash of regular paint or is that stupid? If i have to I'll take it off and repaint it, but 
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Oct 25, 2017 15:03
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:... fair point, but I'd figure "roadside rescue" would also be carrying some basic tools, a booster pack, a compressor, a gas can... I'm betting you can carefully fit all of that in the trunk of a Miata, especially if you stick to the smaller jacks.
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Oct 25, 2017 16:01
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Jan 6, 2020 |
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Oct 26, 2017 00:06
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If it's old, hard gunk, you might have your work cut out for you. But small spiral gun-cleaning brushes and good degreaser are probably a good place to start. I've found a basic domestic steamcleaner with a narrow nozzle can be very good for blowing through small nooks and crannies, too.
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Oct 26, 2017 00:11
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Jan 6, 2020 |
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Oct 26, 2017 00:21
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 2004 Scion xB. Front lower ball joints. I pick up new ones tomorrow AM. Any tips for getting them free from the control arm? I have a ball joint separator, which got it loose at the top but not sure if that will work for the control arm housing.
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Oct 26, 2017 02:21
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Any recommendations for a low profile jack stand? I bought two from Harbor Freight and it seems too high (even at the lowest) setting for my two Toyotas. The other thing is the car jack stand points are pinch welds. Any jackstands exist which will account for these so they dont get bent?
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Oct 26, 2017 02:27
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Revvik posted:
You need a ball joint press. Its a different tool.
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Oct 26, 2017 02:31
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Revvik posted:
Can't really tell from the picture, but is the axle right above the ball joint or is there a straight shot between upper and lower?
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Oct 26, 2017 02:36
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It’s right above. There’s very little room between the joint and the castle nut. E: when the top half is pressed out, that leaves way more room to maneuver though, and with the separator I can do that much.
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Oct 26, 2017 02:38
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It may be easier to just replace the control arms. That way you're getting new bushings and new ball joints, and everything just bolts on instead of having to press poo poo in/out. Costs a bit more, but you save a lot of time, and if you don't already have a tool to remove the ball joint....
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Oct 26, 2017 02:42
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Revvik posted:It’s right above. There’s very little room between the joint and the castle nut. Ah poo poo, I think I misread. It's already broke free of the taper in the knuckle and you're asking about getting the joint pressed out of the arm, yeah? I'll second Yugi on this one. Have you priced out the whole arm?
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Oct 26, 2017 02:51
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Jan 6, 2020 |
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Oct 26, 2017 02:52
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Ah poo poo, I think I misread. It's already broke free of the taper in the knuckle and you're asking about getting the joint pressed out of the arm, yeah? I'll second Yugi on this one. Have you priced out the whole arm? Well the bushing is $17. The control arm with bushing is $115-145, I forget.
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Oct 26, 2017 02:53
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rdb posted:You need a ball joint press. Its a different tool. And a vastly superior tool.
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Oct 26, 2017 03:35
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Ball joint press: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9O_cOB2MTI
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Oct 26, 2017 04:30
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Ball joint press: Oh boy I had a good time with one of those a couple months ago. Male sure to ise the right size cup I bent the poo poo out of the tool cranking down on a too small/adapter
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Oct 26, 2017 04:57
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87 Mazda B2000 with a Weber carb and brand new battery -- last night it started stalling out when I had the headlights on and pushed in the clutch to come to a stop, usually when the brakes were depressed. Sometimes it wouldn't stall but I could hear it struggling to maintain idle, like it would go up and down until I gave it some more gas. I've never had this issue before and definitely not without the headlights on. Unfortunately work has me coming in really early and staying late so I'm out of daylight and can't drive it without the headlights until this weekend. Looking over some stuff last night some things I've found to check are: 1. Making sure it has proper pressure from the fuel pump, not too high (>3.5psi apparently) or low (I've got a new one I might toss in since I think I've got the original on it and the level in the filter seems low) 2. Cleaning the idle circuit (probably will be done regardless since the truck is a filthy filthy truck) 3. Checking the brake booster for leaks Anyone else have any ideas? Any advice for the fuel pump pressure thing on gauges or regulators? The alternator checks out on voltage (checked it the other day during daylight and it was reading 14.4V at idle and last night with the headlights on it was 13.9v) but it's also probably original so is there any chance it could not be supplying enough current or something draining it and causing a problem? I don't know what happens in that situation.
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Oct 26, 2017 11:38
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Parts Kit posted:87 Mazda B2000 with a Weber carb and brand new battery -- last night it started stalling out when I had the headlights on and pushed in the clutch to come to a stop, usually when the brakes were depressed... Sometimes, there's a check valve on the brake booster vacuum hose, at either end. If it goes bad, your symptoms arise.
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Oct 26, 2017 13:52
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2008 Pontiac G6 GT convertible 3.8L Leaking something orange, and seems to only happen after running the A/C. It almost looks like just regular water condensation, but it's a tad oily and orange-ish (see pictures below). Recent work done: a) Replaced the entire oil gasket system in February ($3,000) - this was both front and rear main seals, head cover gasket, oil pan gasket, and more! b) Replaced the transmission in June ($3,000) c) Replaced Power Steering Pump d) Replaced o-ring thing on some pipe dealing w/ the air conditioner (leaking)    How much will this poo poo cost?
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Oct 26, 2017 14:37
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That looks like antifreeze. Were they still using dexcool? That's orange.
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Oct 26, 2017 15:12
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Godholio posted:That looks like antifreeze. Were they still using dexcool? That's orange. I *think* it's coolant (and the coolant level is low), but I'm an idiot so I wanted to be sure (and am still nervous after having so much work done on the car this year). Hopefully it's just a hose replacement and not a complete radiator replacement 
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Oct 26, 2017 15:23
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What does it smell like
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Oct 26, 2017 18:02
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BlackMK4 posted:What does it smell like kind of like burnt or dirty? I don't know - it smells like the way the engine bay smells after the car has been running. big trivia FAIL fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Oct 26, 2017 |
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Oct 26, 2017 19:04
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Those resevoirs like to crack where sensors and hoses enter especially if its been moved around a lot. In some cars the sensors leak and then water travels down the wire into the harness or around it so it kinda obscures where its coming from. I dont know if that whats going on but its easy to check just by feeling around and wiggling stuff.
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Oct 26, 2017 19:13
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Dexcool usually leaves orange goo poo poo everywhere, so it's worth a look underneath.
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Oct 26, 2017 19:30
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BlackMK4 posted:Dexcool usually leaves orange goo poo poo everywhere, so it's worth a look underneath. I took it to a shop this afternoon. Hopefully it's something inexpensive.
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Oct 26, 2017 20:26
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Is upgrading my 2012 accord's lovely headlights to this a terrible coffee-can-exhaust-tier idea? Is there a better choice? I have OEM HIDs on my Odyssey now and they're great. Driving the accord at night feels like I'm using my iphone flashlight to see on unlit county roads. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgRmdkJuKXM
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Oct 26, 2017 20:46
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So I've got a 2008 Ford Fusion with about 85,000 miles on it, Check Engine light comes on, I take it to Pep Boys. Pep Boys has reported back that it had error codes PO841 (transmission is hosed up) and PO128 (thermostat is hosed up), quoted me an estimate of $900 to fix the thermostat thing, and said they don't do transmissions and I'd need to find someplace that does to even get an estimate. My response was to tell them to do nothing and that it's new car time; the Fusion's only worth $3000 or so and if that $900 is fair it's already bumping the limits of what I'm willing to spend before declaring it throwing good money after bad, and transmissions aren't cheap. I just wanted to run that decision by people who aren't car morons: New Car Time is the right call here, right?
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Oct 26, 2017 21:19
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Take it somewhere else, it's probably just a thermostat and a transmission sensor.
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Oct 26, 2017 21:29
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CapnAndy posted:So I've got a 2008 Ford Fusion with about 85,000 miles on it, Check Engine light comes on, I take it to Pep Boys. Pep Boys has reported back that it had error codes PO841 (transmission is hosed up) and PO128 (thermostat is hosed up), quoted me an estimate of $900 to fix the thermostat thing, and said they don't do transmissions and I'd need to find someplace that does to even get an estimate. My response was to tell them to do nothing and that it's new car time; the Fusion's only worth $3000 or so and if that $900 is fair it's already bumping the limits of what I'm willing to spend before declaring it throwing good money after bad, and transmissions aren't cheap. $900 to replace a thermostat seems absurdly high. Just what were they going to do for that? Replacing a thermostat should run about $200-250. There has to be a lot more than a thermostat going on. The transmission code could be due to low or dirty fluid. It would be worthwhile to get it checked out. I guess if you don't like the car and want to get a new one, this is a good excuse to do it. Personally, I'd fix it and dump it at the next round of big repairs but that's me.
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Oct 26, 2017 21:34
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Followed thread advice. Rented a ball joint press. Was successful. Thanks thread! Rides much better now.
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Oct 27, 2017 00:59
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PainterofCrap posted:Sometimes, there's a check valve on the brake booster vacuum hose, at either end. If it goes bad, your symptoms arise.
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Oct 27, 2017 01:49
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Deteriorata posted:$900 to replace a thermostat seems absurdly high. Just what were they going to do for that? Replacing a thermostat should run about $200-250. There has to be a lot more than a thermostat going on. $250  The most expensive thermostat I've ever purchased was $25 and took almost 5 whole minutes to replace, requiring a single socket, a screwdriver, and a pair of pliers.
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Oct 27, 2017 02:06
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Depending on your engine the 08 fusion thermostat can be as low as like $4 and that is not an $896 job to replace.
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Oct 27, 2017 03:15
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Parts Kit posted:Thanks! Forgot about that possibility. Do you think if the vehicle was stationary and I pumped the brakes hard it might be enough to help confirm that possibility? If you're sitting still, in Neutral, with a decent idle, and you pump the brakes repeatedly & the idle goes wonky & the engine is like to die...then, yeah. That would do it.
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Oct 27, 2017 05:02
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Godholio posted:$250 Mine was $20 (AutoZone; OEM was $80, which even made the dealer parts counter guy say "WHY THE gently caress IS IT SO EXPENSIVE?"), and took about an hour... mostly because it was nowhere near where it was supposed to be, and I didn't have a wobble adapter. One of those bolts was an absolute bitch to get at with a wrench, and there was no getting a socket on it. I have a feeling that's where I'm losing coolant from now (I really couldn't snug that bolt down very well), but I still don't have a wobble joint, and it's leaking little enough that I don't care a whole lot yet.
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Oct 27, 2017 05:58
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PuTTY riot posted:Is upgrading my 2012 accord's lovely headlights to this a terrible coffee-can-exhaust-tier idea? Is there a better choice? I have OEM HIDs on my Odyssey now and they're great. Driving the accord at night feels like I'm using my iphone flashlight to see on unlit county roads. They're not road legal, i think, and you can get them for like 50 bucks on amazon
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Oct 27, 2017 06:17
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I always laugh when those guys show off how great their headlights are by shining them point blank on a wall. Cause that's where you need to see, right, up close? Most if not all aftermarket headlight "upgrade" kits have lovely beam patterns that spray tons of light up in the air (blinding oncoming drivers), down onto the road (lighting up the grey asphalt and ruining your night vision) and off to the sides (where your car isn't about to be), without actually lighting up directly ahead (you know, where the obstacles are?) any better than stock headlights. Without rigorous testing under identical conditions, photographed with identical exposure settings, I wouldn't dare trust any makers' claims about "10x better illumination" or whatever. Get a set of high-performance halogens, like Phillips Extreme Power, and be done with it. Side note: "DOT APPROVED" just means the physical bulbs meet the size/connector specification to be labeled 9006 or whatever, it absolutely does not mean any regulatory agency has approved the kit for road use.
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Oct 27, 2017 08:48
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