Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Boz0r
Sep 7, 2006
The Rocketship in action.
I'm trying to sell some winter tires, and the dude has asked for the dot code, which should be a four digit code, but all I can find on the tire is this "DOT XH MO N247". What does that mean?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

They're basically asking how old the tires are.

If that's the actual DOT code, those tires are at least 20 years old. 247 is week 24 of the year ending in xxx7 (likely 1997) - in 2000, they switched to a 2 digit year.

This may help.

Boz0r
Sep 7, 2006
The Rocketship in action.
That sucks, as I bought them new from the dealer last year :(

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Then you're very likely misreading the code, or your tires are following a nonstandard date code format.

Boz0r
Sep 7, 2006
The Rocketship in action.
I took a bunch of pictures of them: https://imgur.com/a/G6Umn

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

That's not the complete DOT code.

There's a set of 4 numbers a bit past the end of that code, they may look recessed or stamped differently. Sometimes the complete code is on the other side of the tire - look at the other sidewall and you'll probably find the rest.

If it's still not there, time to call Pirelli - (800) 747-3554

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:55 on Oct 27, 2017

spog
Aug 7, 2004

It's your own bloody fault.
Have you checked the other side of the tyre?

Boz0r
Sep 7, 2006
The Rocketship in action.
Of course they were on the other side. Thanks.

PuTTY riot
Nov 16, 2002

Enourmo posted:

I always laugh when those guys show off how great their headlights are by shining them point blank on a wall. Cause that's where you need to see, right, up close?

Most if not all aftermarket headlight "upgrade" kits have lovely beam patterns that spray tons of light up in the air (blinding oncoming drivers), down onto the road (lighting up the grey asphalt and ruining your night vision) and off to the sides (where your car isn't about to be), without actually lighting up directly ahead (you know, where the obstacles are?) any better than stock headlights. Without rigorous testing under identical conditions, photographed with identical exposure settings, I wouldn't dare trust any makers' claims about "10x better illumination" or whatever.

Get a set of high-performance halogens, like Phillips Extreme Power, and be done with it.

Side note: "DOT APPROVED" just means the physical bulbs meet the size/connector specification to be labeled 9006 or whatever, it absolutely does not mean any regulatory agency has approved the kit for road use.

Thanks. I’ll go this route. I live in a state with no inspections anymore so I’m familiar with the ugly aftermarket HIDs. Was hoping the LEDs would be less lovely.

spog
Aug 7, 2004

It's your own bloody fault.

Boz0r posted:

Of course they were on the other side. Thanks.

Don;t keep us in suspense: how old were they?

Boz0r
Sep 7, 2006
The Rocketship in action.

spog posted:

Don;t keep us in suspense: how old were they?

5115

Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat
Why does my 04 ford taurus develop a noticeable shudder at idle?

  • It doesn't start as soon as the car is started, it takes a few seconds to begin.
  • It doesn't change when I rev the engine
  • Also, the car has started to either move forward a tiny bit or just sort of give a shake (I can't tell which) when it comes to a stop.

It's the transmission isn't it?

spog
Aug 7, 2004

It's your own bloody fault.

Bet you feel a lot better now.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





PuTTY riot posted:

Thanks. I’ll go this route. I live in a state with no inspections anymore so I’m familiar with the ugly aftermarket HIDs. Was hoping the LEDs would be less lovely.

The only other viable options would be:

*If there was a factory HID option, install that
*Buy an actual known good projector housing and retrofit it into your existing headlights. Done properly you'd end up with the same results as an OE set.

Neither of these are cheap or easy on most cars, though.

BitBasher
Jun 6, 2004

You've got to know the rules before you can break 'em. Otherwise, it's no fun.


IOwnCalculus posted:

The only other viable options would be:

*If there was a factory HID option, install that
*Buy an actual known good projector housing and retrofit it into your existing headlights. Done properly you'd end up with the same results as an OE set.

Neither of these are cheap or easy on most cars, though.

What would your advice be for an old car with no headlights, say a 66 Chevelle. I bought a set with halos but it turns out they are not DOT compliant/for off road use only so I likely won't want to use them, and OEM originals suck.

autism ZX spectrum
Feb 8, 2007

by Lowtax
Fun Shoe

Jack B Nimble posted:

Why does my 04 ford taurus develop a noticeable shudder at idle?

  • It doesn't start as soon as the car is started, it takes a few seconds to begin.
  • It doesn't change when I rev the engine
  • Also, the car has started to either move forward a tiny bit or just sort of give a shake (I can't tell which) when it comes to a stop.

It's the transmission isn't it?

If you have a tach you can determine if it's moving forward or if it's dropping revs. The way you're describing it, sounds like a rough idle. Is the CEL on? Also, is it sort of like, inconsistent with revs? Does it rev up, then down slowly? Might have to pop the hood to listen for it. My first guess would be when you come to a stop it's got issues coming to idle so it under revs then catches itself which can feel pretty rough. Also, try putting it in neutral at idle and see if anything changes.


NOW a stupid question of my own! (for a friend)

So, MY FRIEND can only afford one pair of winter tires at a time. They are going to go on a RWD pickup, an '85 d100 to be exact. MY FRIEND thinks he'll be best served with the tires in the front, as that's where most of the braking comes from and since there is no ABS in the vehicle front-wheel traction seems pretty important. It seems easier to correct a back end that's slid out then it is to save the truck from sliding everywhere and not being able to brake properly. Thoughts?

Geoj
May 28, 2008

BITTER POOR PERSON

PuTTY riot posted:

Is upgrading my 2012 accord's lovely headlights to this a terrible coffee-can-exhaust-tier idea? Is there a better choice? I have OEM HIDs on my Odyssey now and they're great. Driving the accord at night feels like I'm using my iphone flashlight to see on unlit county roads.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgRmdkJuKXM

Could be mistaken, but a cursory Google search seems to indicate the lowbeam bulbs are H11s, in which case you can do a H9 swap.

They're essentially the same bulb with higher draw (trades shorter lifetime for higher output) so beam pattern will stay the same as the OEM bulbs but you can nearly double your light output. Base of the bulb will need slight modification (need to trim a mm or so of metal off the key so it will fit in the H11 housing) which can be done with a dremel tool or good pair of side cutters.

spog
Aug 7, 2004

It's your own bloody fault.

Breakfast Feud posted:

So, MY FRIEND can only afford one pair of winter tires at a time. They are going to go on a RWD pickup, an '85 d100 to be exact. MY FRIEND thinks he'll be best served with the tires in the front, as that's where most of the braking comes from and since there is no ABS in the vehicle front-wheel traction seems pretty important. It seems easier to correct a back end that's slid out then it is to save the truck from sliding everywhere and not being able to brake properly. Thoughts?

Your friend is wrong:

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=52

"When tires are replaced in pairs...the new tires should always be installed on the rear axle and the partially worn tires moved to the front."

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a3121/6-common-tire-myths-debunked-10031440/

"There is no "even if" to this one. Whether you own a front-, rear- or all-wheel-drive car, truck, or SUV, the tires with the most tread go on the rear. Don't believe it? Watch this."

http://kumhotyre.co.uk/kumho-news/should-you-fit-new-tyres-to-the-front-or-rear/

"To give the best possibilities of a vehicle handling safely when fitting new tyres to a vehicle in pairs, it is advisable to fit the new tyres to the rear axle."

(note that this are all authoritative sources)

autism ZX spectrum
Feb 8, 2007

by Lowtax
Fun Shoe
Thanks!

Geoj
May 28, 2008

BITTER POOR PERSON
That being said, mismatched tires like that are a recipe for disaster. The truck will respond unpredictability in snowy conditions with that configuration - with seasonal tires replace all four or none at all.

spog
Aug 7, 2004

It's your own bloody fault.

Geoj posted:

That being said, mismatched tires like that are a recipe for disaster. The truck will respond unpredictability in snowy conditions with that configuration - with seasonal tires replace all four or none at all.

Good catch - I misread it as 2 new winter tyres, assuming that they were paired with two old winter tyres.

Mixing is just wrong and I'd rather get 4 part-worns or lovely Chinese brands than do that.

autism ZX spectrum
Feb 8, 2007

by Lowtax
Fun Shoe
What about mixing snow/winter tires?

CapnAndy
Feb 27, 2004

Some teeth long for ripping, gleaming wet from black dog gums. So you keep your eyes closed at the end. You don't want to see such a mouth up close. before the bite, before its oblivion in the goring of your soft parts, the speckled lips will curl back in a whinny of excitement. You just know it.
So I picked my car up from Pep Boys and with it came a detailed breakdown of that $900 thermostat quote:

$207 for the thermostat, $175 for the labor to replace it, $135 for a "complete tune up package", $90 for a "3 step pro fuel package", and $97 for a complete coolant exchange. Which doesn't add up to $913 even with the $90 the bastards charged me for just doing the engine diagnostic (you plugged a little thing in and read error codes off it! I'm not that ignorant!), but what loving ever.

So for those of you who wanted to know where they were getting that number, there you go.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

BitBasher posted:

What would your advice be for an old car with no headlights, say a 66 Chevelle. I bought a set with halos but it turns out they are not DOT compliant/for off road use only so I likely won't want to use them, and OEM originals suck.

Are they just round sealed beams? Two things, put in a relay so they can get the most power from the battery, instead of routing the power through the switch. Also known as a bright lights kit, but I just bought the parts loose and put it together. Second, buy some Hella housings that take modern bulbs. They have DOT patterns and Euro (not DOT) patterns and most people prefer the euro ones. It’s more of technically breaking the law than blinding people, as it’s a different light pattern but still a pattern approved by authority, but the choice is available. I suspect that’s why your current ones are for “off-road only”.

Also I think halo lights are dumb and ugly on old iron.

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...

CapnAndy posted:

So I picked my car up from Pep Boys and with it came a detailed breakdown of that $900 thermostat quote:

$207 for the thermostat, $175 for the labor to replace it, $135 for a "complete tune up package", $90 for a "3 step pro fuel package", and $97 for a complete coolant exchange. Which doesn't add up to $913 even with the $90 the bastards charged me for just doing the engine diagnostic (you plugged a little thing in and read error codes off it! I'm not that ignorant!), but what loving ever.

So for those of you who wanted to know where they were getting that number, there you go.

That's still all $100 less than the original quote! :psyduck: Depending on the engine (I4 or V6), RockAuto.com has thermostats ranging from $4 (cheap V6) to $108 (crazy-balls I4 version w/ sensor). Tell those pricks to eat an rear end and go somewhere else.

BitBasher
Jun 6, 2004

You've got to know the rules before you can break 'em. Otherwise, it's no fun.


StormDrain posted:

Also I think halo lights are dumb and ugly on old iron.

Eh, daytime running lights actually reduce incidence of accidents. They would have had a separate toggle to turn them off.

Also, according to the sales page, Hella headlamps are not DOT approved either. Off road use only in 5.75 inches.

BitBasher fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Oct 27, 2017

Geoj
May 28, 2008

BITTER POOR PERSON

Breakfast Feud posted:

What about mixing snow/winter tires?

Less dangerous on dry or wet roads but similar issues on snow-covered roads. Snow tires will have greater traction in snowy conditions, he'd be better off replacing the two worn tires with winter or all four with snow.

big trivia FAIL
May 9, 2003

"Jorge wants to be hardcore,
but his mom won't let him"

big trivia FAIL posted:

2008 Pontiac G6 GT convertible 3.8L

Leaking something orange, and seems to only happen after running the A/C. It almost looks like just regular water condensation, but it's a tad oily and orange-ish (see pictures below).

Recent work done:
a) Replaced the entire oil gasket system in February ($3,000) - this was both front and rear main seals, head cover gasket, oil pan gasket, and more!
b) Replaced the transmission in June ($3,000)
c) Replaced Power Steering Pump
d) Replaced o-ring thing on some pipe dealing w/ the air conditioner (leaking)



How much will this poo poo cost?

Circling back to this - I took it to a shop. They cannot find a leak anywhere, they say the coolant reservoir isn't low, and the entire system passed the pressure test. wtf.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





BitBasher posted:

Eh, daytime running lights actually reduce incidence of accidents. They would have had a separate toggle to turn them off.

Also, according to the sales page, Hella headlamps are not DOT approved either. Off road use only in 5.75 inches.

Those of us with the superior quad-5.75" sealed beams don't have all the options that everyone with 7" sealed beams have, since the Wrangler market has kept 7" sealed beam replacements a hot seller.

I have a relay kit and some Autopal 5.75" H4 housings all sitting on the shelf to go into my truck.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

big trivia FAIL posted:

Circling back to this - I took it to a shop. They cannot find a leak anywhere, they say the coolant reservoir isn't low, and the entire system passed the pressure test. wtf.

Find the location of the condenser for your A/C unit, and figure out what filthy stuff the condensation is dripping into before it drips under your car. The condenser looks like a radiator, and may be built into your car's regular radiator, or it might be separate, often located in front of or just behind the radiator.

Alternatively, give your engine compartment a good thorough cleaning with some Simple Green and pressure water, let it dry, and then give your A/C a run and see if the water that drops out is now clean instead of yellow.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

BitBasher posted:

Eh, daytime running lights actually reduce incidence of accidents. They would have had a separate toggle to turn them off.

Also, according to the sales page, Hella headlamps are not DOT approved either. Off road use only in 5.75 inches.

Bummer! I thought the smaller ones got the same love from Hella on design. If nothing else a relay and good quality new bulbs should help. Personally I’d swap them to the ECE housings. I understand why you may not want to. Check out images of the different lighting patterns.

I agree with you on DRLs being safe and that’s a good goal on an old, unsafe car that’s your baby.

Godholio
Aug 28, 2002

Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?

BitBasher posted:

Eh, daytime running lights actually reduce incidence of accidents. They would have had a separate toggle to turn them off.

Also, according to the sales page, Hella headlamps are not DOT approved either. Off road use only in 5.75 inches.

You can have DRLs that aren't halos and thus don't look stupid as hell.

Enourmo posted:

Side note: "DOT APPROVED" just means the physical bulbs meet the size/connector specification to be labeled 9006 or whatever, it absolutely does not mean any regulatory agency has approved the kit for road use.

No.

There's no such thing as DOT Approved. DOT doesn't approve anything (you're right on that bit). The DOT stamp on a light indicates that the manufacturer certifies it meets FMVSS Part 108 requirements, which includes a hell of a lot more than the socket design. I'm not sure what it takes to get an investigation going if someone's fraudulently stamping their products, but the NHTSA has and will levy fines/prosecute.

In general, you're not supposed to replace one bulb type with another unless you replace the housing as well. Often the new bulb's light is emitted from a different position on the thing, which changes the pattern of light reflected by the housing.

So who cares about all that crap, right? Well yeah it's not likely you're going to get in trouble unless your lights are just throwing light everywhere and it's painfully obvious to a cop, but if you're out there blinding everybody in the opposite lane you're an rear end in a top hat and you bought a lovely product. Some states that have vehicle inspections will give you crap about it and might fail your vehicle...Pennsylvania has a bad reputation for this, and Utah to a lesser degree. It's a common complaint with Jeeps in particular, since there are a thousand 7" lights on the market that are vastly brighter than the garbage OE headlights, but only a dozen or so have DOT markings and they all cost 3-10x as much as the ebay garbage.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
To add a bit to that, the DOT, as mentioned doesn't approve anything, it just sets out regulations that manufacturers are expected to adhere to. But they don't actually test poo poo, approve anything or otherwise tell you (a manufacturer) "yes this is approved".

BitBasher
Jun 6, 2004

You've got to know the rules before you can break 'em. Otherwise, it's no fun.


Godholio posted:

You can have DRLs that aren't halos and thus don't look stupid as hell.

I'm good with that too. I'm not married to the idea. I'll go with whatever works best.

Godholio posted:

So who cares about all that crap, right? Well yeah it's not likely you're going to get in trouble unless your lights are just throwing light everywhere and it's painfully obvious to a cop, but if you're out there blinding everybody in the opposite lane you're an rear end in a top hat and you bought a lovely product. Some states that have vehicle inspections will give you crap about it and might fail your vehicle...Pennsylvania has a bad reputation for this, and Utah to a lesser degree. It's a common complaint with Jeeps in particular, since there are a thousand 7" lights on the market that are vastly brighter than the garbage OE headlights, but only a dozen or so have DOT markings and they all cost 3-10x as much as the ebay garbage.

I care about this poo poo, this is why I asked. I want headlights that work right and don't gently caress over other people. Unfortunately the vast majority of people that rebuild cars seem to give zero fucks, and neither do a lot of the people that make headlights for them. I had pretty much written off using the lights I had bought as soon As I saw they were not DOT compliant. My state has no inspections like this but people on the highway that have lovely blinding headlights piss me off and I don't want to be one of them.

Spagghentleman
Jan 1, 2013
I had my car sprayed with Krown Rustproofing for the winter yesterday morning...

Of course... I hit a skunk with the front driver side tire tonight and the car now smells horrible both inside and outside. I *have* to wash my car. Most likely the smell is coming from underneath because of how I hit the skunk.

How much am I wasting the Krown spray treatment by getting the car washed *including* an under spray?

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Spagghentleman posted:

I had my car sprayed with Krown Rustproofing for the winter yesterday morning...

Of course... I hit a skunk with the front driver side tire tonight and the car now smells horrible both inside and outside. I *have* to wash my car. Most likely the smell is coming from underneath because of how I hit the skunk.

How much am I wasting the Krown spray treatment by getting the car washed *including* an under spray?

You could try crawling under the car and spraying just the stinky areas with a dilute bleach solution. Skunk smell comes from mercaptans, which bleach will oxidize pretty readily.

Godholio
Aug 28, 2002

Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?

BitBasher posted:

I care about this poo poo, this is why I asked. I want headlights that work right and don't gently caress over other people. Unfortunately the vast majority of people that rebuild cars seem to give zero fucks, and neither do a lot of the people that make headlights for them. I had pretty much written off using the lights I had bought as soon As I saw they were not DOT compliant. My state has no inspections like this but people on the highway that have lovely blinding headlights piss me off and I don't want to be one of them.

The question wasn't aimed at you, it was a rhetorical rant kind of thing.

You can always install them and see if they're good or not. I don't know how much labor it is to swap the housing on your car.

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
Another update on the Turismo, after retiming the belt from scratch it finally runs and idles. Highlights include discovering the flywheel is installed 180 out making the timing mark useless, missing AC mount bushing, worst motor mount I've ever seen (It was basically two bits of metal pretending to be a mount, I didn't dare look at the others), big flames out the exhaust and carb, and distributor off wrong year car causing me to have to rotate the wires one to the right and set the adjustment at the far end of the range.

Starting the car requires pumping the gas a couple times but once it's going it sounds good, no knocking so far. So now that it runs I need to set the carb since it idles high and find a replacement coolant temp sensor harness connector since the last owner cut it off.

I don't know why I do this to myself.

BitBasher
Jun 6, 2004

You've got to know the rules before you can break 'em. Otherwise, it's no fun.


Godholio posted:

The question wasn't aimed at you, it was a rhetorical rant kind of thing.

You can always install them and see if they're good or not. I don't know how much labor it is to swap the housing on your car.

I have all the time in the world. And it's not a major job either way. It's only a pain in the rear end because some lights that are the right size don't have the same geometry around the plug and would require me to cut a part that's not manufactured any longer and would be a legitimate pain to fabricate. I'm not fond of that idea, but we will see what happens when it is back in my garage. Ultimately what I will end up with is what works best and is safest.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Autoexec.bat posted:

Another update on the Turismo, after retiming the belt from scratch it finally runs and idles. Highlights include discovering the flywheel is installed 180 out making the timing mark useless,

I’m not saying that’s impossible since I don’t know that engine, it does sound incredible though, how exactly did you determine this?

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply