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What would be a good technique to do temporary assembly of resin parts? Blue tak is my go-to, but for this model, it's just not strong enough. Maybe PVA? I'm not sure if there's an easy way to remove PVA from resin (aside from just scraping it off) though...
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Oct 26, 2017 08:18
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wdarkk posted:Can you put Tamiya masking tape over paint as soon as it's dry to the touch, or should I wait longer? I'm feeling behind on my Oath. Some paints, especially vallejo, can be dry to touch in minutes but still not fully cured, so its best to give it a few hours. There shouldn’t be any need to varnish if you’re using tamiya tape. Avenging Dentist posted:What would be a good technique to do temporary assembly of resin parts? Blue tak is my go-to, but for this model, it's just not strong enough. Maybe PVA? I'm not sure if there's an easy way to remove PVA from resin (aside from just scraping it off) though... Use a small dot of thin super glue sprayed with accelerant, it’ll dry almost instantly but will have a weak bond so should be easy to separate.
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Oct 26, 2017 08:36
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I also use super glue. After you break the bond all you need to do is scrape off the old glue before bonding it again. Another option that I sometimes do is pinning- glue one end of the pin and leave the other without. This is great for things like ball joints where you want to see what your poses will be before 'locking them in'. Unless the part is very heavy pins usually hold the pose pretty well too.
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Oct 26, 2017 08:39
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Hmm, super glue might work. I was hoping for something with a longer setting time so I can futz with the positioning. I'm making this guy and I'm not 100% sure what position I need/want the legs to be in (especially since the front left leg will partly determine the position of his gun arm): I'm also definitely pinning this guy (I pin everything that's not plastic - I literally ran pins through those antennae you can see in the pic), but I want to figure out the right position before I insert the pins.
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Oct 26, 2017 08:41
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For those sorts of projects I use greenstuff + super glue. This sets in about an hour, but you have plenty of time to experiment with positioning before it hardens.
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Oct 26, 2017 09:09
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Putty's actually not a bad idea, although I do want to take it apart to pin it after I figure out the positioning. If my tests with PVA fail, that'd be a good backup option.
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Oct 26, 2017 09:17
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There’s also the two-part epoxies with 5/15/30 minute drying times but once it’s set, you’re not going to separate those parts.
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Oct 26, 2017 12:58
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ijyt posted:There’s also the two-part epoxies with 5/15/30 minute drying times but once it’s set, you’re not going to separate those parts. I might be worried about the heat of the epoxy. Would it cause any issues?
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Oct 26, 2017 15:00
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I don't understand.
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Oct 26, 2017 17:06
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Epoxy curing generates heat. Although in the small amount for a flush part join it'd be pretty negligible.
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Oct 26, 2017 17:11
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I'm looking to find a miniature that can fit a specific type of character without having to use HeroForge to make it (due to expense and previous purchases not being too fantastic). I'm playing in a Pokemon RPG and we're looking for a mini for one of the players. He's playing a 14 year old fixated on speed and athletics as well as being the best trainer he can be. I'm thinking of a young man in some sort of running action-y pose, but without any sorts of weapons or anything like that. Does anyone have any ideas for what might work? Searching on my own hasn't really turned up anything.
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Oct 27, 2017 00:29
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Hasslefree has lots of regular human type minis. They do mostly have weapons though, but it wouldn’t be too hard to get rid of the usual kinds they have.
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Oct 27, 2017 02:04
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Sanity check please. I want to put some of my minis on clear acrylic bases, to which I'm gonna glue fields of vision and the like underneath, so I'm afraid any pins etc. would be visible as shadows. The minis are pre-painted plastic, similar stuff to X-Wing ships IIRC. Is decent scoring (of the minis' feet and the acrylic base in the joint area) and two-part epoxy glue (to avoid frosting from CA glue) strong enough, or should I try to pin them anyway and try to hide it somehow?
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Oct 27, 2017 03:18
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Irate Tree posted:Thread, meet Harnold, the Wizard's Apprentice.   That's trippy. I just did this guy (well, I painted him a few months ago but finished basing him a week or so ago). I'm using him for a DnD Character I'm playing at the moment. I found his face REALLY hard to do.
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Oct 27, 2017 11:34
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I was planning on using cheap acrylic craft paint for airbrushing terrain pieces. Am I ok just thinning it with water, or do I still need to use some kind of actual thinner? Also, can I use glaze medium with inks? can I even use the old GW inks as glazes?
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Oct 27, 2017 15:43
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Do we have a FAQ on "how to photograph your minis (maybe with an iPhone even) and make them not look like poo poo" 
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Oct 27, 2017 17:28
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Funzo posted:I was planning on using cheap acrylic craft paint for airbrushing terrain pieces. Am I ok just thinning it with water, or do I still need to use some kind of actual thinner? Jesus, would that stuff even go through an airbrush?
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Oct 27, 2017 17:42
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Maybe? Ive done it before painting a crib, but it was definitely touch and go. I would for sure recommend thinner and some flow improver
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Oct 27, 2017 17:44
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Did a bit more work on Garreks Reavers last night. I'd say they're all about 90% complete. Just gotta pick out some more details and go over more stuff. I debated for a while about whether or not to add blood to them, but i'm glad I did. Blood for the Blood God is actually pretty great if you layer it in multiple coats and leave it on a little thick. I did some splatter too, which you can kinda see. I didn't want to overdo it.  
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Oct 27, 2017 17:54
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Quidthulhu posted:Do we have a FAQ on "how to photograph your minis (maybe with an iPhone even) and make them not look like poo poo" More light. Even more light than that. Also light tents are like 10 bucks on eBay
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Oct 27, 2017 18:08
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Funzo posted:I was planning on using cheap acrylic craft paint for airbrushing terrain pieces. Am I ok just thinning it with water, or do I still need to use some kind of actual thinner? I use Vallejo and Scale inks mixed with glaze medium, thinner medium, flow improver and water and they make awesome flow-y washes. Or I don't use the flow improver and maybe less water and use as glaze.
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Oct 27, 2017 18:29
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TTerrible posted:Have you aerosolised any cooking oil recently? This seems pretty unlikely, but I guess technically possible. You would have to be some kind of deranged maniac to let that happen though. Be safe Frobbe 
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Oct 27, 2017 19:15
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Quidthulhu posted:Do we have a FAQ on "how to photograph your minis (maybe with an iPhone even) and make them not look like poo poo" https://www.warhammer-community.com/2016/11/13/the-model-photo-how-to-photograph-models-for-display/ Or the less technical more angry version:  In other news: painted some X-wing ships:    I enjoy the irony of me posting photography guides while doing such bad photoing here, just wanted some quick snaps.
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Oct 28, 2017 04:48
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Agata, Queen of Carnage from the new WarmaHordes Company of Iron.
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Oct 28, 2017 19:11
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Thanks to a loving 3 week long eye infection swapping eyes every week my painting backlog has built up. I can almost see again now so next week I'm trying to decide what to paint from the following: a) Genestealer Cult Neophytes b) Garek's Reavers (Blood blooders warband from Shadespire) to pad out my murder bois c) The Sigmarine warband from shadespire to pad out my pastel gals. d) Kharadron Overlords squad. Can't decide which I want to do first. Don't have a colour scheme in mind for a) yet (thinking oranges/blues possibly). b) will be more of:  and c/d will be more of: 
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Oct 28, 2017 20:29
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Overlords. And stop rubbing your eyes on things. Jees.
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Oct 28, 2017 20:32
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:Stop rubbing your eyes on things. Jees. It's more the nurgle's rot bearing child that keeps shoving slobbery hands in my face.
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Oct 28, 2017 20:33
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Paint your minis blind to become Zatoichi
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Oct 28, 2017 20:37
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Phi230 posted:Paint your minis blind to become Zatoichi I'm usually painting blind drunk if that counts.
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Oct 28, 2017 20:42
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Has the guy who bought that reaver offed himself yet?
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Oct 29, 2017 00:14
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Pierzak posted:Sanity check please. I do this using CA glue, and just use small amounts and put them in a ventilated area. Works pretty well, check out my infinity models some time (when I remember to post them)
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Oct 29, 2017 00:57
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Pierzak posted:Sanity check please. I've never actually had problems with frosting when sticking my models to clear acrylic with CA glue. Since they're plastic, a really small dot of glue will hold them.
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Oct 29, 2017 01:04
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I only ever have frosting problems when I'm using superglue near the end of its lifespan. Fresh superglue usually has several months after being opened before it starts losing adhesion and going to poo poo.
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Oct 29, 2017 01:47
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Cross post from 40k thread:Major Spag posted:Finished a hot set of shiny mans for a painting comp somewhere else. Posting them here for people to ignore:
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Oct 29, 2017 02:18
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I have finished my AdMech just in time for Armies on Parade.           The Fluffstory for those of you who are into that kind of thing: Back during the Horus Heresy, Archmagos Brackmann of Forgeworld Draupnir was the Mechanicum envoy to the War Hounds, and later as they became World Eaters. "Fortunately", the Forgeworld suffered extreme "communications difficulties" when every Astropath mysteriously came down with an abrupt case of radiation poisoning and Draupnir spent most of the Heresy sitting at home shooting any envoys, scouts or warfleets out of the sky until the whole thing blew over. Once the Archmagos had confirmed that the Imperial side had won, she swiftly re-established communications and paid the Imperium their complete back-tithe which did a lot to stifle any forthcoming questions. Forgeworld Draupnir is a ringworld. A proper one - a vast mechanical orbital band around a sun. It's one of the true relics of the Dark Age of Technology and its output is comparable to an entire subsector. Accordingly, the Imperium has been taxing the poo poo out of it - Draupnir has been churning out starships relentlessly and is the backbone of the entire sector's Imperial Navy. However, to meet this tithe while also defending against constant invasions from everyone who rightly identifies the worth of Draupnir, huge sections of the ringworld's superstructure have been cannibalized to fuel the dockyards. By the 41st millennium fully 25% of the Ringword's mass has been harvested, leaving Draupnir in the shape of a gigantic C and on the brink of critical systems failure. The Mechanicum lacks the knowledge to repair the ringworld and so Draupnir is on the brink. The Archmagos, in response, has declared a crusade: The armies of Forgeworld Draupnir are to go forth into the galaxy, find every starship the Forgeworld has ever made, reclaim it - by force if necessary - and then bring it back to Draupnir for re-integration with the homeworld. It's the galaxy's largest and most violent product recall and no one is safe. Thanqol fucked around with this message at 08:23 on Oct 29, 2017 |
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Oct 29, 2017 07:07
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Also, here's my test mini for the Eldar army I'm now starting
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Oct 29, 2017 08:04
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Looks like I was right about the secret weapon pigments. I found where they get them (the big pot costs 50 cents less )
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Oct 29, 2017 08:15
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Oath thread cross post as usual:Electric Hobo posted:Oath complete!
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Oct 29, 2017 09:01
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 Attention all AusGoons!I've scheduled an eBay listing to begin this Monday morning for a lot of 75 used Citadel paints and washes. They're in decent condition and if you want to save some kind of money it'll be there.
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Oct 29, 2017 14:29
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BULBASAUR posted:Looks like I was right about the secret weapon pigments. I found where they get them (the big pot costs 50 cents less What are those used for? Making your own paint?
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Oct 29, 2017 15:22
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