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I'm not a financial adivsor or even all that knowledgeable but if you're planning on buying a car and don't know if you're going to keep it in ~3 years my first instinct would be to buy a used car in 4-6k range in a model that keeps its value locally and then resell it if your life takes a turn.
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Oct 29, 2017 20:07
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If he's shopping new Challengers, the 4-6k used market is not going to hold his interest. In that ^ example, compare to a car that's a year or two old, or an off-lease Challenger. After the bullshit I've been going through with my Jeep, the bullshit my coworker dealt with on his Challenger, and a friend with his Dart, gently caress Chrysler squarely in the rear end. I don't think I know anyone IRL who's bought a new one in the last decade that hasn't regretted it. For probably the first time ever, I vote lease just because it'll probably last that long.
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Oct 29, 2017 20:15
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Essentially, yeah. I have a 4-6k used car already. I know Challengers have some issues, but I just have a boner for muscle cars that they very specifically scratch because I'm 24. I figure I'd get one, be able to take it in and get mechanical issues settled on it for pretty much free (at least, supposedly) and then re-evaluate in a few years when I'm not as young or stupid. If I'm still young and stupid, I'll lease another one or buy off the residual; if not, I'll go get a Toyota.
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Oct 29, 2017 20:53
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Godholio posted:I don't think I know anyone IRL who's bought a new one in the last decade that hasn't regretted it. Only in the last decade?  Seriously though from what I hear about the current CEO of Chrysler and his cost cutting if you want one I would lease it too.
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Oct 29, 2017 20:53
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I thought Michael Scott was asking another, similar question. Don't buy a 4-6k Charger. I'd never recommend that.
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Oct 29, 2017 21:18
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Autoexec.bat posted:Only in the last decade? I've always though it hilarious that in the 90s the most reliable cars with a Chrysler badge were actually made by Mitsubishi.
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Oct 29, 2017 22:03
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Does a socket size converter exist? If so what would it be called? I have a socket set which has up to 19mm sockets I believe. I bought an extra socket separately 23mm but I can't use my ratchet on it because the square head is too small?
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Oct 29, 2017 23:48
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Yeah they exist, just search for "whatever size to whatever size socket adapter" you likely want 3/8 to 1/2 with those sockets. Here's a full set of them but I'm sure you can find them cheaper.
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Oct 29, 2017 23:54
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Just replaced my front brake pads. Now there's a very faint squeaking noise when I drive. It gets slightly louder as I go faster, but if I turn on the radio or have the window down, I can't hear it. It only happens when I drive. When I press the brakes, the noise disappears. The pads are ceramic, Akebono ACT914. Didn't come with new hardware, so I'm still using the old abutment clips, but I greased the metal-to-metal contact points. Maybe I should have cleaned them? Rotors are in good shape, so I'm sure it's not that. Only other thing I can think of is that I had a hell of a time getting the spring clips back in place. They kept pulling the pads out and making it difficult to close the caliper. There's a chance I could have screwed something up, but I don't think the caliper would even close if the pads weren't aligned. Please advise so I won't die when my brakes fail going down the interstate. EDIT: abutment clips, not shims. Sk8ers4Christ fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Oct 30, 2017 |
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Oct 30, 2017 03:06
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I know without even looking it up that ACT914 fits a Honda Accord. Those pads have these two wire clip things - they go in holes on the sides of the pad to keep them spread apart when the brakes aren't on. Were those still there? You can reuse them if they are, but they often go missing.  If it's not that - make sure the "abutment clips" - the ones on the caliper brakets that the pads slide on aren't touching the rim of the rotor. Common issue.
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Oct 30, 2017 03:25
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Blade Runner posted:I'm wary of buying something that big in cash because then the liability is pretty much on me, with minimum insurance, and I don't really want to take the risk of something happening to the car real shortly after I get it, no fault of my own, and just being out 30k. This doesn't make sense to me. Why would you buy a new car but not put comprehensive and collision insurance on it? You'd be required to do that as part of either financing or leasing anyway, but there's nothing stopping you from doing it on an owned car.
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Oct 30, 2017 03:32
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0toShifty posted:I know without even looking it up that ACT914 fits a Honda Accord. Good guess! I drive a 2014 Civic. Yep, those wires were still there. Those were the spring clips I had trouble getting back into place. I'll double check the abutment clips, thanks! Actually I think I might as well buy new ones while I'm at it. They're going to be in there for at least three more years anyway.
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Oct 30, 2017 05:31
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IOwnCalculus posted:This doesn't make sense to me. Why would you buy a new car but not put comprehensive and collision insurance on it? You'd be required to do that as part of either financing or leasing anyway, but there's nothing stopping you from doing it on an owned car. Maybe he's exaggerating but where I am with ~public insurance~ you will never, ever get your full money back on a used high value car like that one. The only time people get back to par or even make more money is if they got a mechanic's special.
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Oct 30, 2017 12:46
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lol internet. posted:Does a socket size converter exist? If so what would it be called? Sounds like you need a 1/2" ratchet. I don't like to use adapters on bigger sockets because the bigger sockets usually require a lot more torque on them. If you use a 3/8 ratchet and an adapter with a 23mm you're likely going to spin the little 3/8" nub clear around if you're trying to loosen it or tighten it to spec.
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Oct 30, 2017 14:40
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Jake Snake posted:Good guess! I drive a 2014 Civic. Even though your rotors are fine, there is still slight surface irregularities that the new pads haven't matched yet. Akebono itself recommends 400-500 miles of moderate driving for bedding the pads in to the rotors. The procedure I used when I was a mechanic was the 30/30/30 bedding - find a big empty parking lot. Do 30 stops from 30mph to 0 with 30 seconds of cooling in between each. It sounds stupid, but it worked so well that I started doing it for every single brake job I got on certain known problematic cars (Nissan Altima looking at you)
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Oct 30, 2017 15:05
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I do repeated (say 5 times) 60-10 hard braking without actually coming to a stop.
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Oct 30, 2017 15:35
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Hi AI, I hope I'm in the right place for my dumb question I am not good at car  I have a 2014 Nissan Altima S (the four cylinder one). As of three days ago it's engine has started to emit a distinct "melting plastic" smell. At first I thought it wasn't my car (they're painting the apartment complex where I live so weird chemically smells aren't unusual) but this morning I smelled it at work too and finally popped the hood. There's no smoke so I don't think anything is actively on fire, and I can't see anything warping or melting (though most of the engine isn't really visible from the top down) but there's definitely a distinct "fresh off the injection molding" melting plastic smell coming from the engine compartment. I need to take it in to the mechanic soon anyway for the usual scheduled maintenance, and was gonna do that on Friday since I can easily get that day off. Do you think this can wait or is this a "Jesus gently caress go to the mechanic right now or you'll be on fire" situation?
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Oct 30, 2017 15:58
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CornHolio posted:Sounds like you need a 1/2" ratchet. 3/4” is where it’s at.
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Oct 30, 2017 16:09
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ate all the Oreos posted:Hi AI, I hope I'm in the right place for my dumb question I am not good at car
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Oct 30, 2017 16:12
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InitialDave posted:Have a look underneath, it could be you've hit a plastic bag and it's stuck to the exhaust. I thought that at first, but there doesn't appear to be anything hanging down or visibly stuck to the bottom. I'll try and get a better look during my lunch break. The other thing I thought of is it's gotten cold just recently and I've had animals build little nests in my engine before, and around here there's a lot of random plastic debris that they love to incorporate into their nest so it might just be that some rodent dragged a plastic straw into the engine compartment and left it there. e: Oh one other thing, the battery is on its last legs - starting the car is getting longer and sounds like it's struggling a bit, and during the particularly cold night last night it seems the voltage dropped low enough to reset all my settings in the center information screen thing (though not the clock, weirdly enough). The battery doesn't appear to be bulging or leaking or anything but maybe it's that? Shame Boy fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Oct 30, 2017 |
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Oct 30, 2017 16:32
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It could be your accessory belt slipping, though I'd expect there to be some noise to go along with that.
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Oct 30, 2017 17:12
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InitialDave posted:It could be your accessory belt slipping, though I'd expect there to be some noise to go along with that. Yeah I'm not hearing anything out of the ordinary, car's otherwise running fine, temperature is smack dab in the middle of the "normal" range where it always is, no warnings or lights or beeps or boops. I guess I'll wait until Friday unless the smell starts suddenly getting worse - it's been pretty constant so far...
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Oct 30, 2017 17:29
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IOwnCalculus posted:This doesn't make sense to me. Why would you buy a new car but not put comprehensive and collision insurance on it? You'd be required to do that as part of either financing or leasing anyway, but there's nothing stopping you from doing it on an owned car. The insurance is the vast majority of the price here, is the thing. The lease would be around 200, the insurance would be 3-400 a month. So relative to that, leasing or buying isn't really a huge distinction money-wise, for me. I would probably get comprehensive if I bought it new with cash regardless, but that just means I'm still paying the major cost every month while also having thrown a lot of money into it up front.
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Oct 30, 2017 17:39
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ate all the Oreos posted:I thought that at first, but there doesn't appear to be anything hanging down or visibly stuck to the bottom. I'll try and get a better look during my lunch break. It's amazing how much smell you can get from a tiny bit of plastic melting.
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Oct 30, 2017 18:07
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spog posted:It's amazing how much smell you can get from a tiny bit of plastic melting. Oh yeah totally, I do hobby electronics and quickly learned that "pointing the heat gun absentmindedly at the wrong thing for a few seconds" is a great way to make my whole apartment reek
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Oct 30, 2017 18:17
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Blade Runner posted:The insurance is the vast majority of the price here, is the thing. The lease would be around 200, the insurance would be 3-400 a month. So relative to that, leasing or buying isn't really a huge distinction money-wise, for me. I would probably get comprehensive if I bought it new with cash regardless, but that just means I'm still paying the major cost every month while also having thrown a lot of money into it up front. 3-400 a month seems like a rather expensive insurance policy. I have two fully insured cars that cost me about $150/mo combined.
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Oct 30, 2017 18:22
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Auto insurance is stupid expensive in the NYC metro area and surroundings. My brother was until recently stationed at West Point, and while Progressive allowed him to use our parents' address as his garage address if he would have had to use his address at West Point his premium would have been over $100 more per month.
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Oct 30, 2017 18:32
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Deteriorata posted:3-400 a month seems like a rather expensive insurance policy. I have two fully insured cars that cost me about $150/mo combined. Yep. A Challenger is a car that automatically gets a higher premium, I'm under 25, and I live in NYC. This combination is generally one that costs a lot of money. I might just wait until I turn 25 next year for the lower insurance alone.
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Oct 30, 2017 19:09
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Blade Runner posted:Yep. A Challenger is a car that automatically gets a higher premium, I'm under 25, and I live in NYC. This combination is generally one that costs a lot of money. I might just wait until I turn 25 next year for the lower insurance alone. Not really a thing. Actuarial tables don’t have a cutoff at 25.
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Oct 30, 2017 19:10
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My rates sure as gently caress didn't drop when I turned 21/25/whatever (with no claims or tickets).
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Oct 30, 2017 19:12
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Blade Runner posted:Yep. A Challenger is a car that automatically gets a higher premium, I'm under 25, and I live in NYC. This combination is generally one that costs a lot of money. I might just wait until I turn 25 next year for the lower insurance alone. The incentive would seem to be to stick with a cheapo car until you can afford the TCO on a better one. The overall picture I'm getting is that you can't actually afford the Challenger.
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Oct 30, 2017 19:14
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Time for new brakes on my '15 Civic EX sedan. But surfing Prime Choice (Canada), man its hard to touch all the bases. I can get rear rotors sure, but no front ones. Front pads, but none for the rear. If I broaden the search to just 15 Civic and remove the trim, they are there for other trims. I cant see there being too much difference from an EX to an EX-L, or is there? I could see the SI being different. Help?Dagen H posted:My rates sure as gently caress didn't drop when I turned 21/25/whatever (with no claims or tickets). This wont happen automatically. Shop around. I've cut my premiums in half this way. codo27 fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Oct 30, 2017 |
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Oct 30, 2017 19:33
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Deteriorata posted:The incentive would seem to be to stick with a cheapo car until you can afford the TCO on a better one. The overall picture I'm getting is that you can't actually afford the Challenger. Yeah, I'm still not following the logic. "I pay $X on insurance so it doesn't matter that I spend $Y on the lease or $Z on a payment".
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Oct 30, 2017 19:36
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Deteriorata posted:The incentive would seem to be to stick with a cheapo car until you can afford the TCO on a better one. The overall picture I'm getting is that you can't actually afford the Challenger. I can entirely afford it in budgetary terms. Even right now, I could afford both the lease and the insurance, I just wanted to see if there was something I was missing about leases just being a bad idea. My point was more that the insurance premium would probably be a lot more than the car payment itself, and that's just an sort of an inevitability unless I buy it in cash and don't put full insurance on it, which would be a dumb thing to do. If the rates going down at 25 thing is a myth then whoops, guess I'm an idiot, I didn't know that. (Not being sarcastic.) An insurance agent told me they would, and I don't know why he'd tell me a lie that would make me wait to buy insurance, but I can accept that I either misheard him or he was misleading me.
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Oct 30, 2017 19:53
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What is your living situation? Do you really want to flush that much money down the toilet on a lease for a disposable car you can buy any day of the week? I mean I'm usually of the "only live once" belief but the older I get man it just gets more obvious what a poor investment cars are (unless you're this guy), for a "cool" feeling that will only last temporarily.
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Oct 30, 2017 19:57
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codo27 posted:What is your living situation? Do you really want to flush that much money down the toilet on a lease for a disposable car you can buy any day of the week? I mean I'm usually of the "only live once" belief but the older I get man it just gets more obvious what a poor investment cars are (unless you're this guy), for a "cool" feeling that will only last temporarily. Pretty good. I wouldn't have to live any tighter than I already do, it would just be an opportunity cost of saving 500 or so less a month. That is a legitimate cost, though. As for whether I want to dump that money in the garbage for a cool car, I mean, that's the age old question. The answer is "yes, of course I want to, I'm in my twenties" but I can acknowledge it's far more sensible to just put the money in a savings account, or something.
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Oct 30, 2017 20:44
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So I'm at a bit of a crossroads and I'm not sure what to do. My 2002 Lexus IS300 (170k miles, auto) has treated me more or less pretty well over the almost 9 years I've had it. I've been sold on Toyota reliability. Thing though is it's got some pretty bad rust on both side's rocker panels, and some starting on the front right fender. I figure if/while I have it at the body shop they could fix some damage to the front bumper, too. All of this was quoted about $1,500. My gut tells me that I'm not going to make that back from the sale of the car after getting the work done. KBB private party Fair condition = $3,345. Good = $3,984. Very Good = $4,595. Excellent = $4,977. Besides the rust/body and the stock navigation no longer working, everything else in the car is great. Runs great, a pleasure to drive. I just highly doubt getting this body work done is going to be worth the $1,500. So if that's true, then that means I should either keep it till it dies or sell it as it is, and the sooner the better, right? I'm not super thrilled about the idea of keeping it till it dies because I want it to be worth something, even if just a couple thousand, when I'm ready to afford the car I want. I want to stick with Lexus but the best I can afford is 06-13 models, and I'm not a huge fan of the body style. I would love to find a 2014 IS250 for around $15 or $16k right now but that seems pretty unlikely. So what do you guys think? Should I actually get the body work done? Should I skip the body work and just keep driving it as it is until I can afford a nice 2014 IS250 and hope it doesn't 'die' (or lose too much more of its value) by then? (Maybe it's already lost most/all of the value it's going to lose?) Should I do something else? I'm all ears, and appreciate any advice!
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Oct 30, 2017 20:50
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Do odometers work in reverse? Best I can find are that digital odometers definitely work in reverse, and in very old cars they actually roll back. But in, say, a generic mid-nineties car that doesn't yet have a digital odometer, would it roll back? Just something I was mulling over in my head.
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Oct 30, 2017 20:50
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CornHolio posted:Do odometers work in reverse? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=louFRE4vwHY
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Oct 30, 2017 20:53
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yamdankee posted:So I'm at a bit of a crossroads and I'm not sure what to do. My 2002 Lexus IS300 (170k miles, auto) has treated me more or less pretty well over the almost 9 years I've had it. I've been sold on Toyota reliability. Thing though is it's got some pretty bad rust on both side's rocker panels, and some starting on the front right fender. I figure if/while I have it at the body shop they could fix some damage to the front bumper, too. All of this was quoted about $1,500. Fix it, drive it until it dies, and start putting money in a savings account for a new one in the meantime. Every $5000 you borrow costs about $100 per month. So at best it's worth $4k, or $80 per month on a five year loan. If you can save $100 per month and it lasts another three or four years, you're money ahead.
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Oct 30, 2017 20:58
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