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Blade Runner posted:Pretty good. I wouldn't have to live any tighter than I already do, it would just be an opportunity cost of saving 500 or so less a month. That is a legitimate cost, though. As for whether I want to dump that money in the garbage for a cool car, I mean, that's the age old question. The answer is "yes, of course I want to, I'm in my twenties" but I can acknowledge it's far more sensible to just put the money in a savings account, or something. I suggest you do the math on what saving that $500/mo for an extra year will mean for your retirement. Not in a savings account, open a loving Roth IRA if you don't have one. Right the hell now.
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Oct 30, 2017 21:03
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Deteriorata posted:Fix it, drive it until it dies, and start putting money in a savings account for a new one in the meantime. This is a really smart way of looking at it. Thank you for the kind advice!
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Oct 30, 2017 21:08
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InitialDave posted:Have a look underneath, it could be you've hit a plastic bag and it's stuck to the exhaust. I was able to take a closer look once I got home from work and... It was exactly this. There's a big blob of melted plastic bag, smack dab in the middle of the exhaust. Great call, thanks!
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Oct 30, 2017 23:11
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0toShifty posted:Even though your rotors are fine, there is still slight surface irregularities that the new pads haven't matched yet. That's probably exactly what it is. Driving around today, I noticed the squeaking was much quieter. I can barely hear it even with no radio or traffic noise. Going to double check the brakes anyway when I flush the brake fluid tomorrow (ran out of time yesterday).
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Oct 31, 2017 00:13
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yamdankee posted:
Fix it, trade it in for whatever when you decide to get a new one and like the other guy said start a savings account. You'll never get a significant amount for it when you sell, and you're already taking a $1500 chunk out of potential profit. There's no telling what you'll get yourself into with another car and as long as this one keeps running then stick with it. ate all the Oreos posted:Yeah I'm not hearing anything out of the ordinary, car's otherwise running fine, temperature is smack dab in the middle of the "normal" range where it always is, no warnings or lights or beeps or boops. I guess I'll wait until Friday unless the smell starts suddenly getting worse - it's been pretty constant so far... Can you try and track down where the smell is coming from? check under the hood and in the cabin with the fan on and off and see if there's a place where it smells strongest.
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Oct 31, 2017 00:19
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I just bought a nice set of new tires for my car, and had them installed and balanced, and they are great--they are quieter and more grippy than my previous stock tires. However, now I am noticing a slight rocking in the car whose frequency at low speeds < 25 mph seems to be proportional to the car's speed. At higher speeds, the rocking sometimes disappears and sometimes appears but doesn't go at the same rate as the car's speed. I don't feel the rocking in the steering wheel or the brake pedal, and it is very slight. It isn't really a vibration, just a slight rocking, like as if you were on a boat. It isn't particularly intense or really a safety issue, but it is a little annoying. What could be the issue here? Did the shop improperly balance the tires or slightly bend a wheel when putting on the new tires? The new tires pressure is 3-4 lbs greater than the pressure listed inside my door jam. silence_kit fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Oct 31, 2017 |
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Oct 31, 2017 01:05
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Set the tire pressure according to the door jamb and check the torque of the lug nuts. If your not feeling it in the wheel the problem is most likely a rear tire, if you can’t find anything wrong take it back to the shop. Have them do a ride along if necessary.
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Oct 31, 2017 01:24
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New question on my 2004 Scion xB (although the car make doesn’t matter much here). It came to me with an aftermarket Viair air ride system that was leaky as gently caress. I’ve plugged most of the leaks already, and plan on going over the rest in the next couple days. The PO put the air pressure gauges behind the shifter with some LED strip taped above it to “illuminate” the gauges. No pics, I yanked that poo poo out immediately. It was stuck into the fuse box. The gauges are now neatly installed on the steering column where I can glance at them at any time. My question comes with lighting them. I want to wire it into the headlight switch so it lights up with the running lights and headlights. I have no bulbs or sockets for the gauges, though there is a spot for them. How?
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Oct 31, 2017 04:55
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Figure out who made the gauges, then find the appropriate bulbs and sockets to match. There's probably a wire on the gauge itself that should be connected to a power source that goes live with the rest of the gauges.
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Oct 31, 2017 05:05
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There isn’t a wire, there’s just an empty space that fits some of the bulbs I happen to have on hand. I’ll see if I can’t grab some pics tomorrow, the gauges are pretty accessible now. The mounting kit was from FastScions.com (loving lol at that name), but the access holes were so close the air lines kinked if I tried to line them through there. Ended up having to drill holes in the dash to feed them through. Also, Awful App is being awful about posting pics.
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Oct 31, 2017 05:10
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codo27 posted:Time for new brakes on my '15 Civic EX sedan. But surfing Prime Choice (Canada), man its hard to touch all the bases. I can get rear rotors sure, but no front ones. Front pads, but none for the rear. If I broaden the search to just 15 Civic and remove the trim, they are there for other trims. I cant see there being too much difference from an EX to an EX-L, or is there? I could see the SI being different. Help? Why are you replacing the rotors? And why are you replacing all the pads at once? Generally rear pads, even if disc, will outlast front brakes significantly. At least when I had my 96 Civic, the pads were different depending on EX, LX, HX, DX, CX, GX... coupe or 4 door.. or hatch... ABS or non-ABS... and also varied depending on the transmission you had (the HX added a 3rd transmission option - a CVT) I had a 96 2 door manual transmission without ABS. Getting pads was a pain in the rear end, most parts stores would give me pads that were a lot smaller. I assumed they were for an LX or for some kind of sedan (Civic sedans are a good bit lighter than coupes.. or used to be). CornHolio posted:Do odometers work in reverse? If the car has a VSS and electric driven odometer, yes, the odometer will still register. If not, it'll probably just stay at its current reading. Most, if not all, cars by then had gone to electronic speedometers/electric odometers by then, despite appearing "analog". I can think of a couple of early 90s Hondas that still used speedometer cables; those probably wouldn't roll the odometer in reverse (they had a VSS, but it was mounted to the back of the speedometer, and the odometer was driven by the speedo cable/speedometer).
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Oct 31, 2017 06:08
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Revvik posted:New question on my 2004 Scion xB (although the car make doesn’t matter much here). If you absolutely want bulbs and sockets you could probably get a set from a junkyard scion. Not sure how you'd actually get power because they use a circuit board thing they clip into. I'd go with LEDs wired with an inline fuse to the headlight circuit. You could snag it just out of the fuse box and it would look reasonably neat. Regular output LEDs can be hot glued into place no problem with the benefit of being removable if you come up with a better plan.
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Oct 31, 2017 12:44
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Anybody have any luck using cheap ground loop isolator things to get the buzz out of their radio's aux input? 2004 honda accord, stock radio using the thing turns the cd changer input into an aux. Oh, and a 10 dollar aukey ground loop isolator.
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Oct 31, 2017 13:28
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Why are you replacing the rotors? And why are you replacing all the pads at once? Generally rear pads, even if disc, will outlast front brakes significantly. I've got a bad rotor, major vibration when braking at higher speeds. I've got 80k km almost, figure its just as well to do them all or at least buy em all. If any of it is salvageable, at least I'll have the parts when I need to replace them
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Oct 31, 2017 14:46
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violentlycitrus posted:Anybody have any luck using cheap ground loop isolator things to get the buzz out of their radio's aux input? 2004 honda accord, stock radio using the thing turns the cd changer input into an aux. Oh, and a 10 dollar aukey ground loop isolator. When my wife had a Mazda 6 we used an Auxmod for line in tied into a ground loop isolator. Never had a problem with buzz or coil whine, and it was less than $10 from Amazon.
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Oct 31, 2017 16:40
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big trivia FAIL posted:2008 Pontiac G6 GT convertible 3.8L Coming back to this from pages ago: I took it to a mechanic Friday. He had the car all day and could not get it to leak at all. Passed pressure tests and all. He told me to take it home and just watch it. Today, my wife was coming home from running errands, and when pulling into the driveway, the car exploded and caught fire. Had the FD and PD out here and everything. Guess that's a total loss...
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Oct 31, 2017 21:56
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Well that’s a sudden change. Post the pics. Everything else safe?
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Oct 31, 2017 22:00
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big trivia FAIL posted:Coming back to this from pages ago: I hope you punched him in the face. and hugged wifey.
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Oct 31, 2017 22:01
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jesus, lol. glad no one's hurt
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Oct 31, 2017 22:05
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Yeah, wife and son are fine. She got him out of there in a hurry. All that wet is brake fluid or something. 3rd pic is engine bay, passenger side, you can see all the burnt up poo poo.   
big trivia FAIL fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Oct 31, 2017 |
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Oct 31, 2017 22:14
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KBB puts the value between 4 - 7K, so maybe I'll get a decent payout from it drat
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Oct 31, 2017 22:26
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Steering rack? WTF?
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Oct 31, 2017 22:29
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Dagen H posted:Steering rack? WTF? I can only guess it leaked fluid and dripped onto the exhaust.
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Oct 31, 2017 22:31
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She said as she was turning into the garage there was a loud snap and bang. She got out and saw the passenger wheel well on fire. I don't know anything about the mechanics of a car (aside from engine make go), so I don't know. edit: and there is some kind of fluid (brake fluid?) all over the garage and driveway big trivia FAIL fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Oct 31, 2017 |
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Oct 31, 2017 22:34
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Hydraulic fluid from the power steering would be my bet, brake fluid isn't flammable iirc
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Oct 31, 2017 22:46
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spankmeister posted:Hydraulic fluid from the power steering would be my bet, brake fluid isn't flammable iirc heh this is wrong. It doesn't have the flashpoint of something like gasoline, but it'll burn just like canola oil. I think it's ignition point is somewhere in the neighborhood of 500 degrees which makes leaking on the exhaust and catching fire unlikely but, I guess, possible... However, you'd probably make a fuckton of smoke before that happened. e: oh hey Google! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EMGuh0njJE GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Oct 31, 2017 |
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Oct 31, 2017 22:49
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Given the empty hose barb there, I'm thinking return line from the power steering popped off and soaked the exhaust in either ATF or power steering fluid, both of which are flammable.
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Oct 31, 2017 23:11
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:heh this is wrong. It doesn't have the flashpoint of something like gasoline, but it'll burn just like canola oil. Neat, good to know. Still think it's power steering fluid tho!
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Oct 31, 2017 23:12
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IOwnCalculus posted:Given the empty hose barb there, Totally missed that 
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Oct 31, 2017 23:13
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big trivia FAIL posted:c) Replaced Power Steering Pump  That paper towel doesn't look soaked with brake fluid or any ATF I've used.
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Oct 31, 2017 23:31
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I bought a 2002 F150 and the PO put HIDs in the stock housings. I'm going to put them back to stock since that's the cheapest way of fixing the problem. The HIDs are wired up correctly with power coming right from the battery and a relay in the middle. Is there any reason why I should take the whole wiring setup out and go back to 100% stock wiring? I'd prefer to use the current setup (direct from battery w/ relay) to power the stock lights just for ease of re-installation of the old stuff.
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Nov 1, 2017 01:10
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I don't see a problem with adding the extra relay. Assuming it's all wired correctly it should be no less safe than stock.
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Nov 1, 2017 01:29
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Breakfast Feud posted:I don't see a problem with adding the extra relay. Assuming it's all wired correctly it should be no less safe than stock. That was my thinking too, thanks.
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Nov 1, 2017 02:04
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The stats: 2004 Toyota Solara SE 4cyl automatic transmission. Problem is as follows. Driving on the freeway- all power dies, check engine light comes on naturally, engine is still running, however accelerating does nothing much. Brings overall RPM to about 2000 when flooring it. Pulled over. Turned car off, waited a minute or two, turned back on. Drives like normal- got back on freeway. When I hit freeway speed problem repeats. Get off freeway, seem to be able to drive ok at speeds of 30-40mph. Take surface streets with no problem. Eventually have to get back on Freeway. I add a bit of gas to my car just in case that's the issue, then resume driving. Get on the freeway, no problems. Get to my exit, as I'm pulling into my driveway, hear a thump, problem repeats. Thankfully at idle speed, can get to my house and get parked. Further development, when I shift car into reverse to back into my garage, a rather loud and discomforting bang occurs. Does not repeat when I shift back to drive, then back to reverse again. Drives at idle speed in drive and reverse both. One final note. When I would have the car parked but running, when this problem was occurring it would idle at about 1000rpm, then pulse up to 1500 at a steady rate, and back down. Car in reasonably good shape, 131000 miles. Only real internal work done was replacement of throttle body a few years back. No issues since. Thanks ahead of time.
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Nov 1, 2017 05:04
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Twiggles posted:The stats: Check transmission fluid level, and pull the codes. Definitely sounds transmission related though.
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Nov 1, 2017 06:54
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codo27 posted:I've got a bad rotor, major vibration when braking at higher speeds. I've got 80k km almost, figure its just as well to do them all or at least buy em all. If any of it is salvageable, at least I'll have the parts when I need to replace them Gotcha. Front rotors and pads for sure then, but I'd personally hold off on the rears unless you've already visually confirmed that they need to be replaced. The fronts do most of the work. You might try Rockauto to get part numbers, then check Amazon Canada, but I don't know how the trim levels differ between US and Canada market Hondas (I know at one point, the US EX was sold as an Si in Canada, and the US Si was sold as the SiR up there - not sure how much of that has changed). IOwnCalculus posted:Given the empty hose barb there, I'm thinking return line from the power steering popped off and soaked the exhaust in either ATF or power steering fluid, both of which are flammable. I'm gonna guess, given the proximity to that half shaft, that it hit the brake rotor and went FWOOM. Those get plenty hot enough to ignite power steering fluid. Either way, it sucks, but nobody was hurt, house wasn't damaged, and it sounds like the car was insured; as far as car fires go, OP (and wife+kid) came out very lucky. Looks like the FD got there real quick too, that damage is extremely minor for a car fire. If no wiring was nearby, it may not get written off, assuming insurance values it at the higher end of KBB. Even if it does, steering rack + lines, those AC lines right above it, and the brake line to that wheel may be all it needs for someone to get it back on the road. That's still very concerning that the line popped off like that; that's the low pressure return line isn't it? Those don't see a whole lot of pressure, just a decent amount of volume. Definitely something to report to the NHTSA as well. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:18 on Nov 1, 2017 |
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Nov 1, 2017 08:15
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I've got a tiny bit of squeal at the very end of braking to a complete stop. Pads look like they have at least half an inch left on all 4 sides. Rotors seem to look good. Of course my indie shop is recommending new pads and rotors for both axles, $1200 (my car sucks). Anything else it could be? Should I just not worry about it until they really need replacement? Braking power is good. This is anytime after driving for a while so it's not flash rust.
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Nov 1, 2017 16:57
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Michael Scott posted:I've got a tiny bit of squeal at the very end of braking to a complete stop. Pads look like they have at least half an inch left on all 4 sides. Rotors seem to look good. Could be noisy pads. I had that problem when I had about the same amount of pad left and I just said gently caress it and put new pads on. Not rotors. $70 from https://www.rockauto.com
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Nov 1, 2017 16:59
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Michael Scott posted:I've got a tiny bit of squeal at the very end of braking to a complete stop. Pads look like they have at least half an inch left on all 4 sides. Rotors seem to look good. I'm getting the same thing with brand new pads, but they are admittedly $20 AutoZone jobbies
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Nov 1, 2017 18:33
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1997 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0L V6 4x4 The windshield wipers work fine, the intermittent settings all seem OK and there are no scary noises or weird delays or anything. What doesn't work well is the sprayer. I replaced the pump when I bought this truck in May 2015, and it *will* spray, sometimes. It won't spray if the wipers are set to anything other than OFF, and I have to hold the button (the end of the stalk) in for a few seconds before it starts going; sometimes I have to hold it, release it, hold it again to get it to work. All of this rules out the fuse and the pump, but the "sometimes it works" nature of the problem suggests the relay or switch is damaged. There's a bunch of corrosion around the battery and some other electrical components, so I wouldn't be surprised if it's something like that. How do I know if a relay is bad? I can pull it and look at it, is there anything besides nastry grime and corrosion I should look for? How would I figure out the part number to replace it? NAPA has something in stock locally for $15, but it might be for the wiper motors rather than the sprayer. Do relays have unique part numbers written on them? This is something that's causing my truck to fail out-of-province inspection and I'd like to register it here in Quebec before my Ontario insurance expires November 19. Sidenote, Quebec car insurance is amazingly cheap (because Socialism, basically).
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Nov 1, 2017 21:17
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