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Can someone help me out? I’m adding a Lyric Round. I think I have it setup correctly (see images) but the loving thing is running the heat, so clearly I am a stupid. The split view of the diagrams shows the old system on the right, and the Lyric on the left. Just in case I inadvertently chose the wrong type (2stage heat/cool), I’ve added the other lyric options. https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0xGFssfGGr9A1s I could contact my apartment complex but they’d probably bitch and moan and/or charge me. I think the issue is the black wire...unsure where it’s supposed to go since orange/white are in the other spots. He;lp? (Edit: changed the config to 2stage heat,1stage cool - same) (Edit 2: if it helps, in my fuse box I have separate furnace and ac breakers) pipebomb fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Oct 26, 2017 |
# ? Oct 26, 2017 20:29 |
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# ? May 9, 2024 23:06 |
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edit: oops nm looks like you guys already mentioned the smart things shield addon Tacos Al Pastor fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Oct 27, 2017 |
# ? Oct 27, 2017 00:58 |
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pipebomb posted:Can someone help me out? http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/replace-braeburn-1200nc-honeywell-lyric-426513/
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# ? Oct 27, 2017 01:38 |
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I literally never even considered just putting the two model numbers together into the google. Now I am double stupid. Thanks for the link.
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# ? Oct 27, 2017 03:41 |
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Don't feel bad--I fought with your pictures for like 20 minutes before it dawned on me that there had to be others that climbed your hill first.
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# ? Oct 27, 2017 04:02 |
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For those of you using Home Assistant.. Version .56 added Google Assistant support. (https://home-assistant.io/components/google_assistant/) This means you can control Home Assistant entities anywhere you can interact with Google Assistant, such as AndroidTV boxen, Google Home devices, etc.. It does require some manual setup work still. Nowhere near as much as before though. One big requirement is that your Home Assistant installation is internet accessible and with a valid SSL cert. This can be accomplished with DuckDNS and LetsEncrypt.
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# ? Oct 27, 2017 14:34 |
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stevewm posted:For those of you using Home Assistant.. Finally! Been waiting for this. One thing I'm not clear on from the instructions is whether or not the gactions CLI has to be run from the home assistant host, which would be a problem for me since I'm running hassio and it doesn't look like there's a plugin yet. It looks like maybe it can be run from anywhere, though. e: yep it's just a one time thing you can run from anywhere. already up and running, this is awesome. CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Oct 28, 2017 |
# ? Oct 28, 2017 01:21 |
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n.. posted:Finally! Been waiting for this. One thing I'm not clear on from the instructions is whether or not the gactions CLI has to be run from the home assistant host, which would be a problem for me since I'm running hassio and it doesn't look like there's a plugin yet. It looks like maybe it can be run from anywhere, though. You can install SSH on Hass.io.... Its in the addon store. But yes it works well.. I really only use it from Assistant on my Shield Android TV box. Still married to my fleet of Amazon Echos.
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# ? Oct 28, 2017 01:53 |
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stevewm posted:You can install SSH on Hass.io.... Its in the addon store. Oh I know I use it all the time, but installing poo poo at the host level sort of defeats the purpose of using hassio... I thought gactions might need to tie into HA somehow but it doesn't so, non-issue anyways. I'm just happy to be able to control poo poo from assistant on my phone and Google Home's now without jumping through all the hoops that was required before. The most annoying part about this method is having to fill out all the app information despite the fact that it's never going to be published. That whole process could use a lot of streamlining
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# ? Oct 28, 2017 02:01 |
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Any recommendations for 3-way, SmartThings-compatible dimmer switches?
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# ? Nov 2, 2017 01:02 |
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Thermopyle posted:Any recommendations for 3-way, SmartThings-compatible dimmer switches? Is Smartthings z-wave? I really like the Linear (now GoControl) switches. 3-way modules available.
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# ? Nov 2, 2017 03:08 |
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Thermopyle posted:Any recommendations for 3-way, SmartThings-compatible dimmer switches? I've got a HomeSeer WD100+ Dimmer and a WA100+ Companion. Reason: Double Tap and Triple Tap events are supported on SmartThings. If ordering from HomeSeer.com, create account, add all the items you wish to your cart then close the site for a bit. A stackable 5% off coupon was emailed to me when I did that.
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# ? Nov 2, 2017 11:09 |
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I’m assuming all of these require a neutral wire, yes?
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# ? Nov 2, 2017 20:54 |
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Heners_UK posted:I've got a HomeSeer WD100+ Dimmer and a WA100+ Companion. Reason: Double Tap and Triple Tap events are supported on SmartThings. I like the idea of the multi-tap controls. I guess that I'm supposed to use this community-created device type for these HomeSeer devices?
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# ? Nov 2, 2017 20:58 |
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housefly posted:I’m assuming all of these require a neutral wire, yes? Yep
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# ? Nov 2, 2017 21:37 |
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Is the best answer for both dimming and speed control on a single-switched ceiling fan still to buy one of the IR or RF remote control boxes and strap some transmitters to a Raspberry Pi? I haven't had any luck finding any standalone fan speed controllers that speak any kind of open home automation protocol. There seem to be a few built in to wall switches, but mine's just a single wire install so that would mean that fan speed changes also affected the lights which obviously doesn't work. It's a rental house, and while they're fine with me installing low voltage stuff like ethernet I'm not going to get involved with the mains wiring beyond replacing a few switches, outlets, and fixtures. wolrah fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Nov 2, 2017 |
# ? Nov 2, 2017 22:08 |
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housefly posted:I’m assuming all of these require a neutral wire, yes? No smart switch that claims to work without a neutral is worth a poo poo with LED bulbs, so I wouldn't really consider it an option. They worked by leeching a small current through the filament of incandescent bulbs to power the switch.
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# ? Nov 2, 2017 22:19 |
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eddiewalker posted:No smart switch that claims to work without a neutral is worth a poo poo with LED bulbs, so I wouldn't really consider it an option. They worked by leeching a small current through the filament of incandescent bulbs to power the switch. Gotcha. I just bought a house and really only want dimmers in two rooms. One room has the neutral but the other I’m not seeing it in the box behind the existing switch. It may be there and just not a white wire.
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# ? Nov 2, 2017 22:36 |
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Thermopyle posted:I like the idea of the multi-tap controls. Yep. I think without it you only get the double tap events, but with it you get all of them (including single tap).
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# ? Nov 2, 2017 22:44 |
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housefly posted:Gotcha. I just bought a house and really only want dimmers in two rooms. One room has the neutral but the other I’m not seeing it in the box behind the existing switch. It may be there and just not a white wire. I got a few Philips Hue bulbs for $15 each and some Lutron connected dimmers for $20 each: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ With this you just hold the dimmer a few inches from the bulb and hold down a button to pair it up, then you can stick the dimmer to any wall to turn the bulb off/on/dim with no wiring needed. You don't need the philips hub either. My house had no wall switches at all and the ceiling bulbs were pull-strings so this turned out to be a simple, reliable and cost effective combo.
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# ? Nov 3, 2017 02:56 |
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Zero VGS posted:I got a few Philips Hue bulbs for $15 each and some Lutron connected dimmers for $20 each: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ I’ve got hue bulbs in my table and floor lamps, but for the actual ceiling sockets I’ll get the neutral run to do it up the right way. There are 6 can lights in the living room alone and I’d rather just drop the neutral from the light if possible and have a new wire pulled from the breaker to the switch. It might cost a couple hundred but it will be worth it for ease for guests, etc.
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# ? Nov 3, 2017 11:24 |
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housefly posted:I’ve got hue bulbs in my table and floor lamps, but for the actual ceiling sockets I’ll get the neutral run to do it up the right way. There are 6 can lights in the living room alone and I’d rather just drop the neutral from the light if possible and have a new wire pulled from the breaker to the switch. It might cost a couple hundred but it will be worth it for ease for guests, etc. Your other option is something like the Lutron Caseta dimmer switch starter kit (P-BDG-PKG1W on amazon) and then you could add another dimmer and/or pico for the second room if you wanted it. The Caseta 6WCL dimmers don't need a neutral.
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# ? Nov 3, 2017 11:45 |
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eddiewalker posted:Is Smartthings z-wave? I really like the Linear (now GoControl) switches. 3-way modules available. Yeah. I like the idea of the multitap commands, and got the Homeseer switches, but with Echo I hardly touch switches anyway. It also makes the switch less responsive because it has to wait for the multitap timeout to expire before acting on a single press. I bet I can solve that with a zwave programmer though, hmm. Subjunctive fucked around with this message at 11:58 on Nov 3, 2017 |
# ? Nov 3, 2017 11:55 |
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I’m using the GE dimmer switches and they work great. They don’t do anything fancy but they work.
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# ? Nov 3, 2017 15:50 |
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I think I really want dimmers with the leds indicating level.
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# ? Nov 3, 2017 16:04 |
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eddiewalker posted:No smart switch that claims to work without a neutral is worth a poo poo with LED bulbs, so I wouldn't really consider it an option. They worked by leeching a small current through the filament of incandescent bulbs to power the switch. Lutron Caseta isn't bad, just do some research on the LED bulbs before you buy them.
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# ? Nov 3, 2017 16:15 |
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paternity suitor posted:I’m using the GE dimmer switches and they work great. They don’t do anything fancy but they work. A neighbor has GE switches and likes them a lot as well. Product range here. I've personally got the outdoor module for the deck lights (note: linked to z wave version, if you buy it now, get the Z-wave plus version). Works well but occasionally has to be rejoined to ST, perhaps twice in ~1 year after I turned the power on and off a few times (installing the dimmers in other parts of the house). The Wirecutter also likes both the Homeseer and GE switches. Rooted Vegetable fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Nov 3, 2017 |
# ? Nov 3, 2017 16:50 |
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Thermopyle posted:I think I really want dimmers with the leds indicating level. The Homeseer ones do have a brightness indicator. I won't lie, I can't give a reason why I care that they have it, but I do look at it when I wonder if I can get the lights lower.
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# ? Nov 3, 2017 18:29 |
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housefly posted:There are 6 can lights in the living room https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halo-RL...ZHA69/302569279
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# ? Nov 3, 2017 18:47 |
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TacoHavoc posted:Your other option is something like the Lutron Caseta dimmer switch starter kit (P-BDG-PKG1W on amazon) and then you could add another dimmer and/or pico for the second room if you wanted it. The Caseta 6WCL dimmers don't need a neutral. If these didn't require yet another hub and have some sort of design to them, I'd be all over them. I know it's just a light switch, but I've got a particular design sense I'm trying to go with in the house. Do any other single pole z-wave dimmers exist? I honestly don't care at this point if I can't use LED bulbs. Edit: I suppose I could fish up a neutral from the wall plug that's in the same wall. That's "legal" to do without breaking electrical code, right? Edit part deux: If I had the amazon expert setup, it says they'll install up to three smart switches and it's a licensed electrician. That seems reasonable for the money and they would have to fish a line, right? That might be my cheapest option. Anyone done this? housefly fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Nov 3, 2017 |
# ? Nov 3, 2017 23:30 |
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Heners_UK posted:A neighbor has GE switches and likes them a lot as well. Product range here. I've personally got the outdoor module for the deck lights (note: linked to z wave version, if you buy it now, get the Z-wave plus version). Works well but occasionally has to be rejoined to ST, perhaps twice in ~1 year after I turned the power on and off a few times (installing the dimmers in other parts of the house). Yeah, the range is pretty impressive. I have a three story row home with switches up on the third floor and the hub on the first floor, and I've never had a connection issue, ever. I plan on getting the outdoor one for my roof deck next summer too.
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# ? Nov 4, 2017 16:53 |
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Thermopyle posted:I think I really want dimmers with the leds indicating level. Insteon do that.
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# ? Nov 4, 2017 16:57 |
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Having a problem where a lot of the Zigbee lights stop responding to my Smarter Things 2 hub. To the point where there's 2 lights in a room, one works the other doesn't. There's 5 lights in a hallway, 4 does 1 doesn't. I just yanked the battery, and power for 45 minutes and plugged it back in with having all lights in the house on, but after an hour there doesn't seem to be a change. Any thoughts as to what to do next? Are there better Zigbee hubs? I don't think it's a mesh issue because one of the hallway lights is probably literally the closest bulb to the hub.
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# ? Nov 4, 2017 19:38 |
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Hughlander posted:Having a problem where a lot of the Zigbee lights stop responding to my Smarter Things 2 hub. To the point where there's 2 lights in a room, one works the other doesn't. There's 5 lights in a hallway, 4 does 1 doesn't. I just yanked the battery, and power for 45 minutes and plugged it back in with having all lights in the house on, but after an hour there doesn't seem to be a change. Any thoughts as to what to do next? Are there better Zigbee hubs? I don't think it's a mesh issue because one of the hallway lights is probably literally the closest bulb to the hub. Homeautomation.txt Everyone has these problems in some small or larger way. What bulbs are they?
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# ? Nov 4, 2017 20:15 |
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Hughlander posted:Having a problem where a lot of the Zigbee lights stop responding to my Smarter Things 2 hub. To the point where there's 2 lights in a room, one works the other doesn't. There's 5 lights in a hallway, 4 does 1 doesn't. I just yanked the battery, and power for 45 minutes and plugged it back in with having all lights in the house on, but after an hour there doesn't seem to be a change. Any thoughts as to what to do next? Are there better Zigbee hubs? I don't think it's a mesh issue because one of the hallway lights is probably literally the closest bulb to the hub. I have the same issue with the hub a GE Link bulb in one corner of the house. Everything else seems to work fine, including other Zigbee devices. Personally, I just think the bulb isn't that great. All the Z-wave stuff I have is rock-solid, though.
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# ? Nov 5, 2017 00:30 |
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paternity suitor posted:I have a three story row home with switches up on the third floor and the hub on the first floor, and I've never had a connection issue, ever. Most z wave devices that can expect constant power availability (E. G. Switches, plug/outlets, indoor or outdoor modules) will act as repeaters for the mesh network. I believe Z wave allows 5 hops and Zigbee allows 15 (or around that for both numbers). It's not unlimited range but no need to sweat it in most homes.
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# ? Nov 5, 2017 03:49 |
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housefly posted:Edit part deux: If I had the amazon expert setup, it says they'll install up to three smart switches and it's a licensed electrician. That seems reasonable for the money and they would have to fish a line, right? That might be my cheapest option. Anyone done this? I really doubt those quotes include pulling new lines, but I'd be curious to see what you find out.
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# ? Nov 5, 2017 03:55 |
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I just bought/built one of the Google Raspberry Pi "AIY" kits and I'm kind of disappointed in what it can do. A lot of the time it seems like commands that exist on Google Home don't apply to this, with either no error message or a misleading one. Is there any list of what the AIY kit isn't allowed to do at this point? I'm not surprised it can't play music from Google Play All Access because DRM or whatever, but the fact that it can't seem to control my Chromecasts seems like a pointless limitation. Hell, to get it to control my Nest I had to trick the Google Home app in to letting me in to the menu it would have otherwise hidden until I had an actual Home device. It seems there's also software to use RPi devices with Amazon's services, would it be worth the time to convert this to be a half-rear end Echo Dot instead of a half-rear end Home Mini?
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# ? Nov 5, 2017 05:32 |
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azurite posted:I have the same issue with the hub a GE Link bulb in one corner of the house. Everything else seems to work fine, including other Zigbee devices. Personally, I just think the bulb isn't that great. All the Z-wave stuff I have is rock-solid, though. Yep It's GE Link bulbs, but as I said one of the troubling ones is literally right next to it. I'm going to play a bit more with it today. Like I see in the web page that at least some of them are getting pings and responding correctly. Just that they're not getting their commands. I may move the hub but I'm worried about my very limited Z-Wave if I do that. I only have two devices that are Z-Wave and 30 that are Zigbee. EDIT: Read a few places that those GE Links don't repeat for anything even themselves. So I ordered a pair of repeaters/plugs that I'll put around the house and see if that improves it. Not sure why 2 key ones dropped off the network still but will figure it out. Hughlander fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Nov 5, 2017 |
# ? Nov 5, 2017 14:56 |
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# ? May 9, 2024 23:06 |
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TacoHavoc posted:I really doubt those quotes include pulling new lines, but I'd be curious to see what you find out. Doesn’t matter. A friend of a friend in my new neighborhood is a retired master electrician who does jobs for cash. He quoted me at $100, $125 at most to do the work, so that’s fine by me.
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# ? Nov 5, 2017 20:42 |