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InitialDave posted:Is this not the brand new car you have that's still under warranty? DIY sounds like a fun option, and I never thought about how irritating it could be to have a loud exhaust for motorway drives. Glad you made me think of raising that as a valid concern. And yeah, this is the brand new car that's still under warranty, but I'm pretty much stuck with it for the next 3 years minimum. I can't sell it or anything, I've got it on a PCP contract. I highly doubt anyone would take it on, if that's even possible. I called way back when the car was under 500 miles and VW told me I'm poo poo outta luck and if I were to pull out of the contract, I'd be liable for loads of money that I can't afford. I told them about the issues I was having, no dice. I'm taking the car in again this Wednesday and I'm not taking no for an answer. If the technician tells me the car feels fine, I'll pull the "I want to speak to a manager" card, cause using this as a daily driver, I definitely notice the engine losing power and juddering. I would love to get it wrapped for sure, especially since you mentioned DIY option is cheap. Exhaust is just a pipe dream (heh) that I was curious about, but probably not something I'd do.
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Nov 4, 2017 02:09
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Try cycling the key off and on a couple of times before your next cold start (leaving it on long enough for the glow plug light to shut off each time). If it improves somewhat, you may have a dead glow plug. Sent the video to the dealership, they said to drop by Monday at 8 if at all possible. Guess they think something significant is wrong. They'll be providing a replacement car at no cost so I don't feel too bad about leading them to the wrong diagnosis initially anymore given that it now seems like they are trying to make up for not fixing the 'please dont drive anywhere if you can avoid it' issue thanks for the input, same to the others chiming in Old Binsby fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Nov 4, 2017 |
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Nov 4, 2017 02:12
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I've never seen this adequately covered by anyone. Why shouldn't you cut out, say, half a coil of a suspension spring with an angle grinder or similar?
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Nov 4, 2017 02:26
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Wrar posted:I've never seen this adequately covered by anyone. Why shouldn't you cut out, say, half a coil of a suspension spring with an angle grinder or similar? I would assume it would generate a bunch of heat, which would ruin the tempering of the steel.
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Nov 4, 2017 02:34
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Wrar posted:I've never seen this adequately covered by anyone. Why shouldn't you cut out, say, half a coil of a suspension spring with an angle grinder or similar? I don’t like to cut them like that because they are generally wound tighter/narrower and ground flat at the end so they sit in the perch properly. I have had decent luck using a big rosebud and heating a section until it collapses, but my sample size is only 2, an 88 CRX Si and a late 80s RX7 FC. Both were rusty beaters. Either method fucks with the spring rate, especially on a progressive spring.
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Nov 4, 2017 03:10
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Wrar posted:I've never seen this adequately covered by anyone. Why shouldn't you cut out, say, half a coil of a suspension spring with an angle grinder or similar? I wanted to do this to my first car and a buddy told me that it was a great idea if I liked springs falling out of their perches all the time. Another friend did it for shits and giggles much later in life to a beater rx-7 and yeah, the springs fall out of their perches and you hit the bump stops a lot. If the roads where you are happen to be flat and it's not a daily I think you'll be fine though.
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Nov 4, 2017 03:23
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A few months ago my fiance bought her mom a 2006 Chrysler Pacifica with 102k miles on it for $4000. On the fifty mile drive home the check engine light came on. We took it to our local garage and they found a few wrong spark plugs and some gunk in the spark plug connectors causing a misfire. After they fixed it, they couldn't get it to start again. We gave the small town dealership a ton of poo poo and they towed it back to their shop, had something with the electronic key reset (apparently a common problem with contemporaneous Chryslers?). They also paid Chrysler's mechanics to replace the transverse fuel pump (?) which was causing fuel tank issues apparently. They call us, tell us it's good to go. It drives the fifty miles home just fine, and the check engine light comes on the next day. It started idling hard, and shut off at a stop sign. It still will start and drive just fine, but still idles hard occasionally. Meanwhile, her mom got a new car, so now we want to get rid of this thing. The check engine light is still on, we spent 4,000 on the car and another 500 on repairs. What's the best course of action here? Sell it to a used car lot for less than we paid? Roll the dice trying to get it repaired and sell it privately for 4,000? What a loving mess.
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Nov 4, 2017 04:46
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Is there no warranty or return period? I'd be tempted to go to the media, honestly. Small town papers love this kind of thing.
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Nov 4, 2017 05:06
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Yeah, check the lemon laws in your state. There may be a free return period or implied warranty that they have to get it right in so many tries or take it back. Exact details vary from state to state, though, so you'll have to do some digging. It may be worth it to pay for an hour with a lawyer to get straight on exactly what the laws and your rights are. Without that, lean on the dealer to make it right as long as you can. You're never going to get your $4k back in another sale with the CEL on. KBB rates it at about 2700-3000 in a private sale, so the $4k was overpriced to begin with unless it's in remarkably good condition. Get it fixed to the point of being stable, at least, then unload it for $2k before the CEL comes on again. It was a bad buy. Own it rather than deny it and get past it and out of your life asap.
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Nov 4, 2017 05:16
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tactlessbastard posted:I'm about an hour and a half into a two hour drive away from home in my 2005 civic 5 speed. I stopped for fuel just now and when I pressed the clutch in it went to the floor with almost no resistance. It did go into neutral fine, and when I exited, it went into first and took off, but the pedal travel was infinitesimal before it bit and I launched it a little inadvertently. I was able to get up through the gears to third and back down as I pulled into this gas station. Is this a stop immediately problem or can I press on to my destination, where there will be tools? Your clutch master cylinder and/or clutch slave cylinder is probably failing. It's going to be difficult to get into gear at a stop and a bit difficult to shift, but you can keep going. You can bleed the clutch and it'll probably firm up for a day or two, but that's a 2 person job without a pressure or vacuum bleeder of some sort. The good news is both of those are easy to get to on your car - on my 95 (which had almost the same drivetrain), it was about a 30 minute job for each, plus bleeding. Worst case, if it won't completely disengage the clutch, you can put it into 1st gear with the engine off, then start the engine (with the clutch depressed obviously, but it may not do much to actually disengage). It's not great for the starter, and the car will lurch forward, but you can keep going until you get to your tools, and rev match to shift without the clutch (also not great for the car, but doing it on one trip won't hurt it much). Also, uh, double check the clutch fluid level. If it's low, it'll also cause that (you'll need to find the leak, which would likely be either the slave cylinder or a hose).
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Nov 4, 2017 08:51
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Q8ee posted:DIY sounds like a fun option, and I never thought about how irritating it could be to have a loud exhaust for motorway drives. Glad you made me think of raising that as a valid concern. For wrapping, buy decent material, make sure the car is totally spotless and smooth on the paint (full clean and claybar job), and take your time with plenty of lubricant (  ). Watch a load of Youtube videos for guidance, and be prepared to screw up a few times on complex sections.I'd be careful of cheap "pro" jobs, as you really don't want them playing it fast and loose with things like how they trim it - if they cut the vinyl on the car, or use something to stick down uncooperative edges, it'll look like poo poo when it's removed later. I'd never buy a wrapped car unless cheap/didn't care, and again, it'd need to be standard for handing back to VW. For the hassle over the way the car runs etc, I'd suggest registering on PistonHeads and asking there, as it's much more UK-centric, and while there are a lot of bellends, there are also people who really know their stuff legally. Wrar posted:I've never seen this adequately covered by anyone. Why shouldn't you cut out, say, half a coil of a suspension spring with an angle grinder or similar? rdb posted:Either method fucks with the spring rate, especially on a progressive spring. You see, a coil spring is actually kind of a torsion bar just packaged differently. When you compress it, you're not so much "bending" the material, you're twisting it across its cross-section between the two ends, as if you unrolled the coil and tried to twist the end with some pliers. If you cut it, you're making the torsion bar shorter, which does actually make it slightly stiffer... but no way near as stiff as it needs to me to properly handle the mass of the car with a shorter distance between normal ride height and bottoming out. You can sometimes get away with it, to a certain extent, but it's always going to be a bodge, even if it seems "ok". Plus, as people mentioned, the spring might no longer be properly captive in its seating, and a progressive spring was designed around the full original length to work as intended.
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Nov 4, 2017 13:23
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Breakfast Feud posted:Is there no warranty or return period? I'd be tempted to go to the media, honestly. Small town papers love this kind of thing. On a used car? Very, very few states have anything of the sort. It was probably sold "as is".
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Nov 4, 2017 14:41
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Your clutch master cylinder and/or clutch slave cylinder is probably failing. Thanks. I made it to my destination last night, I'll be able to verify my transmission has fluid later today. How do you check the clutch fluid? I've never heard of such a thing, and I'm way out in the boonies (repairing a fence) and internet service is extremely spotty so I can't go trawling youtubes.
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Nov 4, 2017 16:34
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tactlessbastard posted:Thanks. I made it to my destination last night, I'll be able to verify my transmission has fluid later today. How do you check the clutch fluid? I've never heard of such a thing, and I'm way out in the boonies (repairing a fence) and internet service is extremely spotty so I can't go trawling youtubes. Both should have brake fluid in them up to between the two marks.
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Nov 4, 2017 16:43
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InitialDave posted:Look for two plastic tubs on the back of the engine bay in line with the driver's seat. They'll probably be clear(ish) plastic with max and min marked on them. One for brakes, one for clutch. Clutch one is usually smaller. Will do, thank you! Edit: yep, clutch bowl is bone dry The lid says use DOT3 or DOT4, which is preferable? tactlessbastard fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Nov 4, 2017 |
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Nov 4, 2017 17:30
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This is for the Civic? Either is fine for daily driving, but DOT 4 handles higher temperatures. Whether you think it's worth the higher cost is up to your wallet and your driving habits to decide.
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Nov 4, 2017 18:13
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Godholio posted:This is for the Civic? Either is fine for daily driving, but DOT 4 handles higher temperatures. Whether you think it's worth the higher cost is up to your wallet and your driving habits to decide. Yes, the 05 civic. Ok I'll get into town this afternoon and pick some fluid up next time I run out of fencing supplies.
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Nov 4, 2017 18:18
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Keep in mind that it won't just be empty for the hell of it. You've got a leak somewhere in that system.
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Nov 4, 2017 18:21
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tactlessbastard posted:Yes, the 05 civic. Ok I'll get into town this afternoon and pick some fluid up next time I run out of fencing supplies. You're probably going to have to replace the master cylinder, too. That fluid is going someplace. It may be leaking slowly enough that you can avoid it for a while, though.
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Nov 4, 2017 18:21
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Do you guys think I should make a new thread for my Turismo? I'm fine just continually posting here forever too if people prefer but I discovered a mystery switch hanging from the column today while I was removing both of the steering wheel covers. Good news though is it is registered and legal to drive in Georgia now even though the brakes don't work at all and the inner tie rods are ready to run for it if I even think about making them actually do their job. Another note, titles are optional in GA if the car is between 1963 and 1985 apparently, so I didn't even have to pay tax on it. I had previously mentioned you can get a title in GA without the actual title thing in those years but it was 1986 and newer cars that can be transferred without the actual title with a title bond, police inspection, and bill of sale. Pre-63 titles will not be issued at all. 
Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Nov 4, 2017 |
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Nov 4, 2017 18:25
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Godholio posted:This is for the Civic? Either is fine for daily driving, but DOT 4 handles higher temperatures. Whether you think it's worth the higher cost is up to your wallet and your driving habits to decide. IOwnCalculus posted:Keep in mind that it won't just be empty for the hell of it. You've got a leak somewhere in that system.
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Nov 4, 2017 18:29
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Y'all are awesome
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Nov 4, 2017 19:10
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If the reservoir is totally empty, you need to bleed the system after adding fluid. Lots of youtube videos on it, should be pretty easy on that era civic.
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Nov 4, 2017 19:43
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Autoexec.bat posted:Do you guys think I should make a new thread for my Turismo? I'm fine just continually posting here forever too if people prefer but I discovered a mystery switch hanging from the column today while I was removing both of the steering wheel covers. Good news though is it is registered and legal to drive in Georgia now even though the brakes don't work at all and the inner tie rods are ready to run for it if I even think about making them actually do their job. Did it ever have an aftermarket alarm? Also wasnt this car used for something then slapped back together? Might have been a battery disconnect or something thats been removed. Also may have been a killswitch thats lost its connection to ground so it just doesnt work. In most cars its pretty easy to at least trace it to the ignition or accessory circuit bundles under the dash if you dont want to gamble on grounding it. The 80's had dumb poo poo too like putting a seat switch that wont let you start without your butt being in the seat. I doubt its that but id look into annoying features the car might have had that someone would want to defeat. Ive also seen dumb poo poo where people use a switch to trigger the ac clutch. I mean i think it works but a trinary switch is pretty drat cheap and easy to install too so i dunno why its so common. Also id totally read your thread, you should probably come here for headscratchers though because there are more people on it. I mean a car thats put together wrong tends to be edge case after edge case and its an entirely different animal from typical mechanical failures. After its back to correct a thread would make more sense.
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Nov 4, 2017 21:01
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I tried in the "what car to buy" a/t thread, but got no response. I'm considering going to check this car out. It's listed at $6900 on their website, $7400 on this craigslist ad. Title is clean, no accidents, but not a lot of maintenance records showing (then again it's only 58k miles, unlikely anything crazy has been needed, but might if it's sat). KBB puts a "good condition" (and looking at the paint that's what i'd call it at least from a visual standpoint) MR2 of this year/mileage at $6k on the dot. So I'd have to get to that. It's a small dealership, but they've got solid google reviews. I'd be getting a prepurchase inspection done by the local toyota dealer who's always been fair to me. Anything I should look for? Common problems? Is there a good MR2 forum out there? I'm reading through MR2.com, but I figured I'd ask goons. I like goons. For those who have driven one, is it smaller inside than a miata? Because I only baaarely fit comfortably in an ND Miata RF. https://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/d/2001-toyota-mr2-spyder/6355521934.html 
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Nov 5, 2017 02:04
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Dyscrasia posted:Yea, I have everything exposed, there is no access from the back. The replacement motors threads don't spin, the one I'm trying to remove is just corroded and broken. I should be able to safely dremmel the nut, and use cardboard to block sparks hitting the glass. Incase anyone was wondering, I ended up using my dremmel to cut the nut in three places. I was then able to remove and replace the wiper motor. Since I took so long to get it done, it was a 2008 mercury mariner rear wiper motor. I had not found anything online about this particular vehicle.
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Nov 5, 2017 02:24
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Find a forum for that car and post your process and be a hero to someone else. Also, did you cut all the way through or notch it and then break it apart?
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Nov 5, 2017 02:38
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Deteriorata posted:Yeah, check the lemon laws in your state. There may be a free return period or implied warranty that they have to get it right in so many tries or take it back. Wound up going to a proper dealership and traded it in for $2500 toward a 2014 Versa. The dealer heard our sob story and bumped it up to that from $1000. Not a bad ending to that godforsaken car, and we got the Versa (with only 19k miles) for $7500 (after the trade)
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Nov 5, 2017 03:11
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Naylenas posted:Wound up going to a proper dealership and traded it in for $2500 toward a 2014 Versa. The dealer heard our sob story and bumped it up to that from $1000. Not a bad ending to that godforsaken car, and we got the Versa (with only 19k miles) for $7500 (after the trade) You got out of that about as cheaply as you could have. Good job. Enjoy the car!
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Nov 5, 2017 03:19
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Is it possible to wrap a car during the winter in an area with four seasons? I store my mustang in a garage next door for the winter, and I imagine I could do a decent vinyl wrap if I had 5 months or so to work on it.
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Nov 5, 2017 05:18
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DogonCrook posted:Did it ever have an aftermarket alarm? Also wasnt this car used for something then slapped back together? Might have been a battery disconnect or something thats been removed. Also may have been a killswitch thats lost its connection to ground so it just doesnt work. In most cars its pretty easy to at least trace it to the ignition or accessory circuit bundles under the dash if you dont want to gamble on grounding it. Fair enough, it never had any aftermarket alarm thank god, and by switch it looks factory but it's just dangling there. The car has AC but no power steering, they were supposed to come together in a package but the dealer installed the A/C after it arrived in their lot. Also the horn doesn't work but this seems unrelated. This car wasn't used for anything that I'm aware of, that was my '89 Golf that was used as a movie car. Here's a picture of the switch in question.  The reason I suggested a thread is if anyone wants to follow all the dumb poo poo the last owner/Chrysler did that I didn't need help with. Like finding out the OEM rear bearing cages are made of plastic. However I am happy to just include that junk in my posts here too so I'll do that for now. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Nov 5, 2017 |
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Nov 5, 2017 15:05
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Can/should I use my 15" winter tires/wheels from my CR-V on my new Civic Si? The winter tires are 205/70/R15 and the all-seasons from the Civic are P235/40WR18. I bought the tires just last year so it'd be nice to keep using them and not have to buy a new set but I'm guessing going down 3 inches in diameter has some downsides?
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Nov 5, 2017 17:51
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prom candy posted:Can/should I use my 15" winter tires/wheels from my CR-V on my new Civic Si? The winter tires are 205/70/R15 and the all-seasons from the Civic are P235/40WR18. I bought the tires just last year so it'd be nice to keep using them and not have to buy a new set but I'm guessing going down 3 inches in diameter has some downsides?
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Nov 5, 2017 18:03
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Cage posted:Is it possible to wrap a car during the winter in an area with four seasons? I store my mustang in a garage next door for the winter, and I imagine I could do a decent vinyl wrap if I had 5 months or so to work on it. If your garage is heated I don't see why not. I don't know about car vinyl but I know stuff like linoleum and just plastics generally are impossible work with when they're cold. I'm gonna assume you'd lose a lot of flexibility if the temperature is below freezing.
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Nov 5, 2017 18:19
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prom candy posted:Can/should I use my 15" winter tires/wheels from my CR-V on my new Civic Si? The winter tires are 205/70/R15 and the all-seasons from the Civic are P235/40WR18. I bought the tires just last year so it'd be nice to keep using them and not have to buy a new set but I'm guessing going down 3 inches in diameter has some downsides? Google to make sure the bolt pattern is the same.
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Nov 5, 2017 18:22
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Godholio posted:Google to make sure the bolt pattern is the same. I believe it is. 5x114.3 refers to the bolt pattern, right? I guess fitting over the brakes might be the kicker, I know the Si has bigger brakes than the standard Civic. I also live in Southern Ontario so it's not like the road is covered with snow all winter. This is my first ever fun car, is going down to skinny 15s going to ruin the driving dynamics for half the year?
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Nov 5, 2017 18:47
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prom candy posted:I believe it is. 5x114.3 refers to the bolt pattern, right?
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Nov 5, 2017 19:07
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I know when I went from 18" summers to 16" winters with my MS3 it completely ruined the handling in terms of sharpness and initial turn in. Super mushy feeling.
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Nov 5, 2017 19:23
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I went from a 17 245 to a 15 205 without feeling much difference, I never pushed the mustang hard in the winter though. Guess it all depends on the tire.
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Nov 5, 2017 21:20
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prom candy posted:I also live in Southern Ontario so it's not like the road is covered with snow all winter.
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Nov 5, 2017 23:25
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