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kid sinister posted:Best selling vehicle in America since forever, plus Ford used that engine for like 40 years. Options are many and varied. Depending on if anything actually got FUBAR'd and what it was, you might be able to get some new bearings in it or other various replacement parts and just do a quick rebuild and put it back into service. Or if you decide to get something else for the truck *cough*351*cough*, you can still do a quick rebuild on the 302 and sell that for a little bit of coin. Or if somehow the block is totally fuxored, sell any viable parts on craigslist, clean the block up, and turn it into a coffee table.
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Nov 10, 2017 00:42
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Old Binsby posted:This is what it sounds like two weeks later Ok so after a few days at the shop this is fixed. Nothing came up structurally wrong, no error codes in the engine management but after a few hours standing still VW reproduced the issue, they went with a dirty cylinder for a likely cause. Which they cleaned out using a certain fuel additive and taking it out for a long drive. The next morning it turned out that this did nothing noticable, heads were scratched, my service rep was basically  at this point. They kept it for a bit more and the solution they ended up with was to repeat that procedure and drive it around longer. This worked ?? I'm glad they figured it out but I'm going to miss my loaner car. It struck me as boring and bland looking compared to the hatchback when I got the keys to that Golf 7 Variant (-- which I realized is a silly name for 'station' because  'what variant??'). Also, a sub-Polo sized 1.0 L TSI block in a car that's noticeably longer, wider and heavier did not inspire confidence but apparently the performance/displacement ratio is through the roof in modern petrol engines. It's absolutely no slog to drive, not fast exactly but I was impressed by it. Plus it's as comfortable and silent as I remember my dad's early 2000's Audi A6 to be though sadly lacking the Nokia car phone brick that thing had.
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Nov 10, 2017 00:48
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flightless greeb posted:I'm trying to sell my old Pontiac G8 GT from 2008 with 132k miles on it right now and I'm having a really tough time on craigslist and cargurus. Lots of low ballers and people ghosting me and stuff, problems I havent had selling the last 3 cars I've owned on craigslist. It might be very location-dependent but try the facebook marketplace. I know some people who only check FB for buying stuff
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Nov 10, 2017 02:38
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flightless greeb posted:I'm trying to sell my old Pontiac G8 GT from 2008 with 132k miles on it right now and I'm having a really tough time on craigslist and cargurus. Lots of low ballers and people ghosting me and stuff, problems I havent had selling the last 3 cars I've owned on craigslist. Throw a For Sale sign in the window and hit up Cars & Coffee and any other car-related events locally. Those cars have a following. kid sinister posted:Best selling vehicle in America since forever, plus Ford used that engine for like 40 years. Part out the undamaged bits, or slowly build it into a loving beast.
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Nov 10, 2017 05:00
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Had some clutch issues in my manual 2009 mazda bt-50/ford ranger today, on my way home from work. It's at about 270,000 km on the original clutch and transmission (as far as I know anyway) and it was a fleet car for the first 200k~ of that, and then both myself and my brother in law learned to drive manual in it, so it's definitely had some abuse. The pedal started sticking, but let itself out a few seconds later the 2 or 3 times it happened, clutch pressure was all over the place, and it felt like I was slipping the clutch like crazy when I released the pedal. When it was in gear and the clutch all the way out it felt normal. Luckily I was only a few km from my in-laws place so I didn't drive it like that for long at all. From a quick google it sounds like it's probably the slave/master clutch cylinder, air in the lines, or the clutch release bearing? Brake/clutch fluid was normal, and I changed the trans fluid about 20,000km ago. Once I stopped and turned the engine off the clutch felt completely normal and didn't show any signs of sticking or anything. Any ideas?
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Nov 10, 2017 08:42
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wesleywillis posted:How bad is it to weld a sway bar? I already know the answer to that: don't do it. I dunno, worst that happens is the repair fails and the end disconnects, which isn't the end of the world. Is it a pain in the rear end to replace? Could probably get a non-dicked one from a junkyard for cheap.
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Nov 10, 2017 08:55
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Does anybody have any opinions on Nokian Nordman 5 snow tires? My local guy wants to sell me those. I can get Blizzak WS80 or Michelin X-Ice XI3 from tirerack for the same price. I know Hakkapaliitas are the best snow tire ever but I can't find much on Nordman 5's.
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Nov 10, 2017 16:19
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i own every Bionicle posted:Does anybody have any opinions on Nokian Nordman 5 snow tires? My local guy wants to sell me those. I can get Blizzak WS80 or Michelin X-Ice XI3 from tirerack for the same price. I know Hakkapaliitas are the best snow tire ever but I can't find much on Nordman 5's. The Nordmans are studdable winter tires. They are a lower end, older technology design tire than the Hakkapaliitas. It's like getting a Firestone Winterforce instead of a Blizzak. I really prefer studless snow tires. I have put Michelin Xi3s on 3 cars now, and I really love them. More than the Blizzaks I used to have. More than the studded winterforces. The Michelins are quiet, they won't slip on the ice, and they get surprisingly good mileage for winter tires. They actually do better MPG than the Bridgestone Ecopias do in the summer on my Prius. (the ecopias are freaking garbage. They're not good at anything)
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Nov 10, 2017 16:55
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kid sinister posted:Let's say I did bork the engine and need a new one. ...What do I do with the old one?
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Nov 10, 2017 17:01
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0toShifty posted:The Nordmans are studdable winter tires. They are a lower end, older technology design tire than the Hakkapaliitas. Thanks! Ordered the Michelins. I have Pilot Super Sports on my summer car and love them.
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Nov 10, 2017 17:47
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shy boy from chess club posted:Just refill it with oil and see what happens, it might be fine. My first car had a 289 and I was a poor teenager and ran it out of oil tons of times enough so the lifters were clacking (That's the sound you heard) and it was always fine when I put oil back in. Windsors can take massive abuse and keep going. So I should fill it up again even with the oil leak, put a shitload of cardboard underneath to catch all the leaks, run it awhile in the driveway, then if the noise goes away, turn it off, drain it and get to fixing the leak? Does that sound right? Godholio posted:Part out the undamaged bits, or slowly build it into a loving beast. You haven't seen this truck. It's a rusty, bent mess. Dents and scratches everywhere. The cab is pushed in on the driver's side enough that a replacement door doesn't want to close properly. The speedometer only goes up to 85, which I've gone beyond with just the 29 year old stock engine. Somehow I feel a "loving beast" wouldn't belong in this truck. Speaking of rebuilds, how do I determine if it needs one? Now it is a manual, and according to the previous owner, the mileage only rolled over once, which would put it at 160k miles, which I believed because it was a farm truck. It does have the 6 round trailer socket that agricultural stuff uses. So at only 160k, it should still be on the original clutch, right? Well I had to fix another previous leak in the bellhousing a few months ago and I noticed that the clutch needed replacing, and that the one I took out was 3rd party. So this thing has a bit more than 160k miles on it. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Nov 10, 2017 |
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Nov 10, 2017 18:27
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:Could it have cracked or sprung a leak in a hose or clamp somewhere and is steaming off while driving, also keeping the tank pressure down? I'd consider getting one of those UV contrast kits from Amazon and chasing it down if the cap doesn't work. So I went ahead and ordered a new cap, it showed up today. Removed the old cap. The o-ring on it was.... well, some of it was there. The inside of the cap was also cracked. New cap screwed right on (as it should, it's the OEM GM part). I'll top it off before I go to work tonight and see if it drops over the next few days, but I think that was probably the problem. And if it wasn't the main problem, it was at least part of the problem (and I'm only out  for the cap anyway).
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Nov 10, 2017 |
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Nov 10, 2017 21:41
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kid sinister posted:So I should fill it up again even with the oil leak, put a shitload of cardboard underneath to catch all the leaks, run it awhile in the driveway, then if the noise goes away, turn it off, drain it and get to fixing the leak? Does that sound right? How fast is it coming out? As fast as it goes in? If it holds any for some amount of time just see if it makes bad noises while it has enough oil in it. If it sounds ok it's worth fixing the leaks at least except maybe the rear main seal since it's a bitch to do. Also check the PCV valve since those engines like to leak mad oil if it's clogged.
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Nov 10, 2017 22:00
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kid sinister posted:So I should fill it up again even with the oil leak, put a shitload of cardboard underneath to catch all the leaks, run it awhile in the driveway, then if the noise goes away, turn it off, drain it and get to fixing the leak? Does that sound right? Yeah basically. With luck, the noise you heard wasn't causing actual significant damage yet. If the noise goes away, you may have dodged a bullet or you may have caused minor damage that will get worse over time. If the noise doesn't go away, poo poo's hosed. quote:You haven't seen this truck. It's a rusty, bent mess. Dents and scratches everywhere. The cab is pushed in on the driver's side enough that a replacement door doesn't want to close properly. The speedometer only goes up to 85, which I've gone beyond with just the 29 year old stock engine. Somehow I feel a "loving beast" wouldn't belong in this truck. I'd be glad to take it off your hands to (after a few months) show just how wrong you are. A good sleeper is a wonderful thing. quote:Speaking of rebuilds, how do I determine if it needs one? Now it is a manual, and according to the previous owner, the mileage only rolled over once, which would put it at 160k miles, which I believed because it was a farm truck. It does have the 6 round trailer socket that agricultural stuff uses. So at only 160k, it should still be on the original clutch, right? Well I had to fix another previous leak in the bellhousing a few months ago and I noticed that the clutch needed replacing, and that the one I took out was 3rd party. So this thing has a bit more than 160k miles on it. There are probably three areas worth checking for damage, none of which are a 5-minute task. Camshaft, crankshaft, and bearings. You might be able to pull the cam without yanking the engine, it depends on how the engine bay is set up; basically it'll come out through the front of the engine. At a minimum, you'd probably need to remove the fan, shroud, and radiator. Maybe the grille, if it lines up right. For the crank and bearings, the oil pan will have to come off. Not sure if you need to pull the engine for this either. Having the whole engine on a stand would make all of this much easier and since it's an older truck, pulling it is probably not as complicated as you're thinking. Edit: Yeah, I'm assuming it's a reasonable "normal" oil leak, not something ridiculous.
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Nov 10, 2017 22:08
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Depending how it was treated, 160k could easily be time for its 3rd clutch. Especially if it was regularly used for pulling really heavy poo poo at low speeds with a lot of stops and starts... like you'd expect on a farm. Or of course it could really have 260k. No way to tell, really. I had a friend who went through clutches pretty reliably every 60-70k... in a Civic. And he'd been driving manual his entire life. Whereas I've never replaced a clutch due to being worn out; it's always been a "poo poo's already apart, it shows some wear, may as well swap it now while it's easy" job. I'm at almost 190k on the original in my car, but it's showing its age and getting grumpy. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Nov 10, 2017 |
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Nov 10, 2017 22:26
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shy boy from chess club posted:How fast is it coming out? As fast as it goes in? If it holds any for some amount of time just see if it makes bad noises while it has enough oil in it. If it sounds ok it's worth fixing the leaks at least except maybe the rear main seal since it's a bitch to do. Also check the PCV valve since those engines like to leak mad oil if it's clogged. No, not that bad. I'll try that. Godholio posted:Yeah basically. With luck, the noise you heard wasn't causing actual significant damage yet. If the noise goes away, you may have dodged a bullet or you may have caused minor damage that will get worse over time. If the noise doesn't go away, poo poo's hosed. I replaced basically all the seals touching the crankshaft earlier this year: timing chain cover, oil pan, front and rear crankshaft covers. Apparently I did a lovely job, at least on the back ones. It looks like the leak is coming out the back, so I probably need to do the rear main seal and maybe the oil pan again. I know I did a bad job with the oil pan seal. The good news is that I cracked the rust on all the bolts and poo poo I'd have to remove, so that should all come out easily. Yeah it looks like the engine would come right out, but I don't have a garage, so I'd be doing this in my driveway. If this is on your dime, you're more than welcome to take it away for awhile!
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Nov 10, 2017 23:06
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1994 XJ Cherokee 4.0 auto. Bolded because I'm an idiot. VIN plate is 95. mfg plate is Sept 94. I'm going to dump the oil anyway but I'm after some theories here. I've been getting the Jeep back to register-able condition after it was declined an unspecified amount of time ago. Not sure if it's been some months or a year +. A lot's happened. Anyway a couple of the reasons it was knocked back were bad rear main and transmission leaks. This was surprising to me because it had only done a couple of thousand km in the year previous and I'd noticed no such issues. I finished doing the transmission pan yesterday. Lots of old silicon, a squashed gasket and random finger tight bolts (?!?). I also checked the oil. I just want to state clearly here after it failed inspection I parked it and walked away. Didn't have the time or cash. Unless there's some weirdness with XJs I don't know about, the oil level is really, really over full. I've had the motor running on a few occasions to move it around, and the last couple of days it's been left running for a while to look for leaks. There's no sign of emulsion on the dipstick. It's not thin and fuel smelling, so WTF? The oil level is why I'm going to dump it and refill. It's suspicious as all hell. While I'm here. People who know XJs, if I grab the lower arms on the front suspension and really twist, there's nothing abnormal about a tiny bit of deflection, right? Those bushings were another failure item. I can't feel any free play and they look fine. I'm definitely straining against the rubber. For better or worse I've got it booked in at another place to see which things they decide to pick on.
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Nov 11, 2017 00:14
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September 94 would be a MY95 vehicle. It doesn't follow the calendar year.
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Nov 11, 2017 05:04
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Check the upper arms too. On my WJ the upper bushings were completely thrashed while the ones in the lower arms were still serviceable.
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Nov 11, 2017 15:23
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Hey all. I have a 2008 Subaru Forester that I'm having some trouble with, at around 80,000 miles. My wife was driving the car when suddenly the check engine light went on and the car began to vibrate and lose power. I came to take a look and I turned the car on, the car would idle and then putter out. Insurance covered roadside so it's sitting my driveway now. Based on advice from my friend the first place I'm checking is the intake air filter and the mass air flow sensor. I checked the air filter- it's a bit dirty, so I'm going to go ahead and replace. I found a random youtube video that claims that if you unplug the MAF sensor while the car is running and it continues to run, that means the sensor is bad... I'm currently waiting on a ride to the auto parts store. Should I go ahead and plan on cleaning the MAF sensor? Or should I take it to mean the sensor is flat-out dead and needs replaced? Is the unplugging of the MAF sensor actually useful? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Nov 11, 2017 17:11
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You need to pull codes, otherwise you're just shooting the parts cannon at it.
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Nov 11, 2017 17:24
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IOwnCalculus posted:You need to pull codes, otherwise you're just shooting the parts cannon at it. Fair enough. At this point in my life maybe I should just get a code reader? Any suggestions for something that would cover a novice DIYer?
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Nov 11, 2017 18:13
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Code readers are cheap as heck. You can get a Bluetooth one from Amazon for $15 or a WiFi one for $20ish.
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Nov 11, 2017 18:23
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Zarikov posted:Fair enough. At this point in my life maybe I should just get a code reader? Any suggestions for something that would cover a novice DIYer? If you have an android phone, you can get a cheapo bluetooth reader that uses an app named Torque from the play store. Probably like $15 total. Or you can call around to the auto part chain stores and see if any of them have readers on their tool rental program.
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Nov 11, 2017 18:27
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Wrar posted:Code readers are cheap as heck. You can get a Bluetooth one from Amazon for $15 or a WiFi one for $20ish. Wow I had no idea. Got one on the way from amazon, eta monday... In the meantime I went ahead and replaced the intake air filter and cleaned up the MAF sensor. After letting it dry I started the car- it started like normal, but after a few seconds went back to shaking at idle. Went ahead and cleaned it again and I guess I'll just wait this out and see what happens... going to try to borrow or rent a code reader in the meantime. Oh well.
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Nov 11, 2017 18:54
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Zarikov posted:Wow I had no idea. Got one on the way from amazon, eta monday... If you're feeling frisky, go pull the ignition coil (mark the spark plug wires, and take pics so you know which way they go when you reinstall) and take it to an autozone or whatever, they should be able to test it.
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Nov 11, 2017 19:05
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kid sinister posted:No, not that bad. I'll try that. You can rebuild it without dropping it if you just do rings and bearings. Well as long as nothing is actually damaged. If you clear everything out you can stand in there and work or sit on the fenders so its not that bad.
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Nov 11, 2017 19:19
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Zarikov posted:Wow I had no idea. Got one on the way from amazon, eta monday... Cheap OBDII dongles are pretty much the best automotive development of the 21st century thus far.
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Nov 11, 2017 20:42
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MrYenko posted:Cheap OBDII dongles are pretty much the best automotive development of the 21st century thus far. Ain't that the truth. Torque is so worth it at only $5. Anyway, back to my oil woes on my 88 F150 302. To sum up, I had to run an errand for my wife and knew that my truck leaked oil, so I topped it off, drove 40 minutes there and back, but 10 minutes from home, it started making a clattering sound. I got home and it was dry. So I put in all the oil I had left (~2 qt) and let it sit for 2 days. Today however, I went out with another car and bought more oil. I crawled underneath my truck and wiped down all of the oil and drips hanging down that I could find all the way back to the diff. I also put down brand new cardboard to catch any new drips. I filled it up, started it up again as recommended here and let it idle for 20 minutes. The clattering sound is gone BTW. During this time, only one drip formed on the bottom drain hole of the bellhousing on the tranny side, but it wasn't enough to drip. I don't know if this oil was either from the previous leak or after I filled it up again. I looked in the inspection port as best I could, but I didn't see any oil in there, but that hole is higher than the bottom drain hole anyway. I can't figure this out. How can my truck puke out all of its oil in a half hour on the road, yet not even spill enough to make one drip in 20 minutes in the driveway? edit: slight update. I just checked and there is one drop on the cardboard, not 5-6 quarts that it puked out on the road. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Nov 12, 2017 |
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Nov 11, 2017 23:09
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I have a 09 Corolla LE 1.8L with 107K miles I took my car in for an oil change. The car has been with standard oil it's entire life. The mechanic put in synthetic. I had them change the oil to standard. As I understand it, introducing a new oil this far into the life of the car is a bad thing. Did I do the right thing? Is there anything else I should do? Am I now exposed to future problems?
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Nov 12, 2017 00:35
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Blinkman987 posted:I have a 09 Corolla LE 1.8L with 107K miles Changing to synthetic causing problems is an old wive's tale.
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Nov 12, 2017 00:43
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kid sinister posted:Ain't that the truth. Torque is so worth it at only $5. Perhaps it sucked it all through the PCV and burned it or maybe the leak only shows up while its under load at an RPM above idle with oil sloshing around.
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Nov 12, 2017 01:09
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rdb posted:Perhaps it sucked it all through the PCV and burned it or maybe the leak only shows up while its under load at an RPM above idle with oil sloshing around. The man makes a good point. I haven't been following your quest, but have you checked out the air intake? Old Chrysler 2.2l engines were notorious for the
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Nov 12, 2017 01:48
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If that much oil is burning it would fill a city block with smoke. If the pcv fails pressure builds though and that will do it.
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Nov 12, 2017 05:03
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DogonCrook posted:If that much oil is burning it would fill a city block with smoke. If the pcv fails pressure builds though and that will do it. I saw a little smoke coming out the engine bay. I figured that it was from little bit of oil I spilled and made its way onto the exhaust manifold while I was filling it up. Also, after idling it for those 20 minutes, I saw a little smoke come out the dipstick tube when I checked the oil level afterward. It was the same level as before I started.
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Nov 12, 2017 06:57
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kid sinister posted:I saw a little smoke coming out the engine bay. I figured that it was from little bit of oil I spilled and made its way onto the exhaust manifold while I was filling it up. Also, after idling it for those 20 minutes, I saw a little smoke come out the dipstick tube when I checked the oil level afterward. It was the same level as before I started. That smoke should have been sucked into the engine. It sound like the pcv is failed shut.
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Nov 12, 2017 07:43
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Also in this situation losing that much oil that fast is not surprising. If you hear it happen outside the car it sometimes comes out with so much force it shrieks. If nothing is in the way of that stream i guess there wont be much evidence. If it happens under the hood holy poo poo its a mess, my buddy still has oil in one of his headlights from a stream that shot out the front. It will also sometimes launch your dipstick out of there if there are no leaks to relieve the pressure.
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Nov 12, 2017 07:56
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DogonCrook posted:That smoke should have been sucked into the engine. It sound like the pcv is failed shut. I've had a little smoke come out if I check the oil immediately after a long drive, on most of the cars I've owned. However, I agree that the PCV valve is probably stuck closed - combine that with a leaking rear main seal and you get one hell of a mess (OP you said there was quite a mess on the bottom of the truck, right?). OR, the engine may have so much blowby that the PCV just can't keep up anymore. Either way, I'd shoot a new PCV valve at it and make sure the vacuum line to the PCV valve isn't blocked.
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Nov 12, 2017 08:02
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I've had a little smoke come out if I check the oil immediately after a long drive, on most of the cars I've owned. Oh how I hope it's just a $10 PCV valve. I got one and all the grommets and stuff to go with it. Yes, there was one hell of a mess. The engine puked itself empty of 5-6 quarts of oil in 30 minutes of driving. I wiped it all off back to the rear axle. But I don't know if it is the rear main seal. I checked the inspection port in the bell housing and the clutch pressure plate was bone dry. After that I idled it for 20 minutes in my driveway. There was one single drip of oil onto the fresh cardboard I laid out. edit: oh god drat it. I took off the PCV, and sure enough, I could rock the plastic elbow on top of it back and forth. A vacuum leak! After replacing that, starting it up again and watching underneath, I noticed 2 oil drips forming on the bell housing drain and plate. So the rear main seal is bad. So I think I have all the pieces of what happened: 1. There was a vacuum leak at the PCV, forcing it to stick closed 2. exhaust gas in the crankcase couldn't escape 3. the pressure got so high that it forced all the oil out of the apparently weakest seal: the rear main seal. Does that sound right? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Nov 12, 2017 |
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Nov 12, 2017 19:23
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Yes and odds are the rear main has been bad for a long time. Drive it again and see if its still losing a lot of oil.
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Nov 12, 2017 23:18
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