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When I put coolant In my radiator it gives the fluid a sweet taste. Not exactly what I'd call dangerous poison though
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Nov 14, 2017 01:44
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grassy gnoll posted:Yeah, VSP is pretty safe on the lungs. None of my bottles has a strong odor of any sort, and I'm pretty sensitive about that kind of thing. No, I'd just been brushing it on out of the bottle. I guess it doesn't smell fumy but it does have a noticeable odor to it that sticks around a little while as it dries, and other acrylics don't seem to have that. This is pretty good news though and it sounds like I'll be okay with a makeshift spray booth indoors since I'd only been doing vallejo type acrylics.
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Nov 14, 2017 01:51
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Hixson posted:When I put coolant In my radiator it gives the fluid a sweet taste. Not exactly what I'd call dangerous poison though I mean, I'm assuming nobody in this discussion is doing rips right off the business end of their airbrush or dropping thinner straight into their eyes. Then again, TCC exists... Booyah- posted:No, I'd just been brushing it on out of the bottle. I guess it doesn't smell fumy but it does have a noticeable odor to it that sticks around a little while as it dries, and other acrylics don't seem to have that. For what it's worth, there's no harm in indulging in some hypochondria now and then. The real nasty stuff in most paints are solvents, which will actively gently caress up your lungs and other tissues if they're introduced to each other. Acrylics get around this by being water-based. This doesn't mean you should sit there and breathe deep in your overspray cloud, however. Particulates can still do nasty things to your lungs, especially as they accumulate over time. If you want to be as safe as you can realistically get while you're working with vapor clouds of paint, make sure your paint booth has some kind of negative pressure system on it - in my case, a fan to suck air toward the filter, rather than drift toward my face; always work with eye protection, even if it's just a simple pair of open-frame safety glasses; and if you can work up the scratch, buy a replaceable filter respirator mask. You can get 'em for twenty or thirty bucks at your local hardware store or off Amazon. The fabric dust masks are okay in a pinch, but they don't totally seal up against your skin. The CDC page about filter grades is here. For acrylic work, an N95 filter is a solid bet, but if you have the cash and sufficient paranoia, you can find P100 filters pretty easily.
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Nov 14, 2017 02:29
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Reaper Indy mousling painted last week, Dwarf Engineer from Avatars of War painted yesterday. Getting through the old back log of stuff I primed three years ago one tiny figure at a time:     
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Nov 14, 2017 02:33
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That mouse is cute af and both models are incredibly detailed. I am hella jealous at your ability & talent!!
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Nov 14, 2017 03:00
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Schadenboner posted:What would you need to do to turn a disused (wood-burning) fireplace into a vent-hood to do indoor airbrush spraying? Interesting question. You'd want a ducted fan that fit the chimney well - just placing a fan is going to turn the air in the room over rather than force it through the chimney. The chimney would need to be open, too, and a lot of unused ones get sealed. Then you'd need to basically paint in the fireplace, which might be tricky. You'd probably find it way cheaper and easier to just buy a bench set-up, but the chimney thing sounds fun.
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Nov 14, 2017 03:10
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Schadenboner posted:What would you need to do to turn a disused (wood-burning) fireplace into a vent-hood to do indoor airbrush spraying? You have to tear out some of the drywall to get to the duct work, then connect some sort of fume hood to the existing chimney. Tearing out the fireplace and installing a nice access point to plug one in that is easy to repair later on would be ideal, but a fireplace might be an amenity to the house if you ever sell it. At least more than an airbrush station.
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Nov 14, 2017 06:48
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Schadenboner posted:What would you need to do to turn a disused (wood-burning) fireplace into a vent-hood to do indoor airbrush spraying? You'd need to get a airbrush station like I mentioned earlier and run the exhaust hose into it. Otherwise, you'd be wasting a lot of time and money on something that you can get for $80. grassy gnoll posted:NOTE CAREFULLY: this does not apply in the slightest if you're using oil-based paints, shellacs, or anything else with more active chemistry than acrylic paints. Don't mess with that stuff unless you know what you're doing, up to and including relevant safety precautions.
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Nov 14, 2017 17:39
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I am thinking of getting the Maximum 4 gallon quiet air compressor for air brushing purposes as its on sale for $100 off. It's a bit large for airbrushing, but is pretty quiet(~60 dba), and cheap! Does any one have experience using this compressor for air brushing? Is there anything I need to be aware of? Special connections or hoses I may need? I currently own an Iwata Revolution air brush, and a paasche D500 air compressor. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maximum-4-gallon-quiet-air-compressor-0581292p.html#srp
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Nov 14, 2017 19:00
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MrSquarepants posted:I am thinking of getting the Maximum 4 gallon quiet air compressor for air brushing purposes as its on sale for $100 off. It's a bit large for airbrushing, but is pretty quiet(~60 dba), and cheap! Does any one have experience using this compressor for air brushing? Is there anything I need to be aware of? Special connections or hoses I may need? Are you buying this so you can do double duty and run air tools in your garage? If not, why aren't you just buying an airbrush compressor? Even the most expensive Badger compressor is around $200 USD. I mean, unless you're a pro, doing airbrush work as your real job or you get tons of commissions, I don't see the need for a $400 compressor. It's literally a small motor that blows air into a tank. Some are louder than others. That's it.
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Nov 14, 2017 19:27
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Alright, I bit the bullet on a Badger patriot airbrush, along with tank compressor and other equipment (hose, adapter, mask, cleaning supplies, etc.) Here goes nothing...
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Nov 15, 2017 03:35
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Booyah- posted:Alright, I bit the bullet on a Badger patriot airbrush, along with tank compressor and other equipment (hose, adapter, mask, cleaning supplies, etc.) Here goes nothing... Gonna use it on them Kastelans?
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Nov 15, 2017 03:42
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Zuul the Cat posted:Gonna use it on them Kastelans? heck yeah I am, after some practice
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Nov 15, 2017 05:56
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When I was a kid I used to spray paint in my basement. I'd blow my nose afterwards and have black snot. My parents knew about this didn't seem to care. Now I'm more or less a functional adult. Lol.
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Nov 16, 2017 03:25
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When I was a kid, the first time I used spray paint, I sprayed myself in the eye.
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Nov 16, 2017 03:46
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Booyah- posted:Alright, I bit the bullet on a Badger patriot airbrush, along with tank compressor and other equipment (hose, adapter, mask, cleaning supplies, etc.) Here goes nothing... I've spent the last 3 weeks with the 105 and you will be pleased. It deserves the hype it gets on here. Squarepants that compressor is overkill but so is your AV so w/e.
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Nov 16, 2017 03:53
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 Still working on details, but these guys are coming together!
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Nov 16, 2017 06:48
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Avenging Dentist posted:When I was a kid, the first time I used spray paint, I sprayed myself in the eye. I was putting a 40k Chimera track together back in the mid 90s and couldn't get the pegs in the holes so brought it up to eye level. When they went in it shot super glue into both eyes gluing them shut.
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Nov 17, 2017 00:23
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Other than the lung cancer I'm probably going to get in 20 years the worst I ever did was step on a howling Banshee while barefoot
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Nov 17, 2017 02:28
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I was modelling late at night using an xacto chisel. The chisel skipped directly into the meat of my thumb. It was a very deep cut and my blood started to squirt out immediately. I applied pressure and had barely made it to a sink when... I woke up on the cold floor with blood all over, a sore shoulder, and a headache. Apparently I have a blood phobia. I had fainted and concussed myself. Everyone was asleep so nobody could help me. The scar has healed, but I lost some feeling in the tip of my thumb. Miniatures are a dangerous hobby. Don't hobby alone.
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Nov 17, 2017 02:41
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JEEVES420 posted:I was putting a 40k Chimera track together back in the mid 90s and couldn't get the pegs in the holes so brought it up to eye level. When they went in it shot super glue into both eyes gluing them shut. 
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Nov 17, 2017 02:48
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Can anyone tell what is happening with the paint on this? It's a Reaper Bones, I washed it with cold water and a toothbrush before painting it. There's only two thin (??) layers on there from my wet palette.  This is the second Bones mini I'm painting though, is it just the material? Do I need to re-learn proper thinning for their material? Also, not primed, I primed a few and they're all tacky now. Also, Reaper says you don't need to prime them (I believed that was a trap) Farts fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Nov 17, 2017 |
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Nov 17, 2017 02:56
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Farts posted:Can anyone tell what is happening with the paint on this? Did you prime it with a spray can? Bones hate that poo poo, and it will cause all sorts of issues.
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Nov 17, 2017 02:59
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Bones Miniatures are slightly hydrophobic, and thinned paint will bead off. Do a couple layers the paint will start to react normalcy.
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Nov 17, 2017 03:00
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Bones Miniatures are slightly hydrophobic, and thinned paint will bead off. Do a couple layers the paint will start to react normalcy. Would it be better if I switched to paint straight from the bottle? I like the reassurance. OptimusWang posted:Did you prime it with a spray can? Bones hate that poo poo, and it will cause all sorts of issues. The ones that are sticky I primed with a spray can, the spider in the picture is not primed, just a cold water bath and brush. Also, didn't realize all the mold lines until after I painted it, ugh.
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Nov 17, 2017 03:03
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One of my French Grenadiers actually stabbed me with his bayonet. Enough to draw blood
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Nov 17, 2017 03:13
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Farts posted:Can anyone tell what is happening with the paint on this? You have got to prime those bones with serious primer before you can paint them for poo poo. It is the material. You're thinning right but you gotta get it primed before you can paint thin layers on top. I mean you really should prime even like a nice GW model or whatever but you REALLY gotta prime the bones.
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Nov 17, 2017 03:35
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Farts posted:Can anyone tell what is happening with the paint on this? Bones has a layer of weird coating that seems to help paint bond better and not just mold release. I think thats why they say you don't need to prime, and why if you do they get tacky (I prime bones without Washing and they do fine, the tackiness is just unusual, not bad.) Washing that stuff off and not priming was like the worst of both worlds for getting paint to stick.
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Nov 17, 2017 06:31
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Farts posted:Can anyone tell what is happening with the paint on this? I pretty much strictly use Vallejo brush on surface primer with all my minis, including Bones, and have had no issues with it getting tacky or not sticking to the surface. I don't trust that 'don't need to prime' thing one bit.
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Nov 17, 2017 09:01
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BULBASAUR posted:I was modelling late at night using an xacto chisel. The chisel skipped directly into the meat of my thumb. It was a very deep cut and my blood started to squirt out immediately. I applied pressure and had barely made it to a sink when... I woke up on the cold floor with blood all over, a sore shoulder, and a headache. I've done something similar to this but it was my middle finger. For some reason it skipped pass my mini and went through my knuckle meat. Didn't immediately bleed though so I just sat there for 2 minutes trying to figure out if what I did actually happened or if maybe I was okay. But then I chose to put the finger under water "to be safe" and that's when I found out how bad it was. There was more hilarity involved (I was not blood phobic) but long story short I've got a nice big scar to remember it by and a respectable fear of x-acto blades. 
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Nov 17, 2017 14:08
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JEEVES420 posted:I was putting a 40k Chimera track together back in the mid 90s and couldn't get the pegs in the holes so brought it up to eye level. When they went in it shot super glue into both eyes gluing them shut. Same, but it was a Chaos Predator. Good thing I was wearing contacts at the time.
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Nov 17, 2017 14:37
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Vermintide posted:I pretty much strictly use Vallejo brush on surface primer with all my minis, including Bones, and have had no issues with it getting tacky or not sticking to the surface. I don't trust that 'don't need to prime' thing one bit. Same here, vellejo brush on has always worked for me. I haven't tried spraying it on bones since I got an airbrush. Also mold lines on bones are a real son of a bitch, I've mostly given up and just accepted that most bones are only suitable for tabletop play and not for display pieces.
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Nov 17, 2017 15:16
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 Thanks for the advice, I'll deal with sticky Bones for now when I prime them but I was able too get this guy "good enough"
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Nov 17, 2017 15:40
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BULBASAUR posted:I was modelling late at night using an xacto chisel. The chisel skipped directly into the meat of my thumb. A friend was pushing a chisel xacto into a mini directly at his thumb, perpendicular to his thumbnail. Another friend told him not and no sooner did he respond with "its fine", he shoved the blade directly into his thumb, splitting the nail. Instead of putting pressure on it he started to shake his hand wildly getting blood everywhere.
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Nov 17, 2017 15:44
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So, priming models: I have always sprayed black using aerosol cans. I know brush on primer is a thing, and it needs to be, because there are always nooks and crannies the spray doesn’t reach. I have always used black paint to brush over these bits. Is there some special brush on primer I should use? At one point I did have some GW black primer that’s supposed to be for this purpose, but it was diabolically bad. Literally worse coverage than yellow paint over black.
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Nov 17, 2017 16:08
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I use Vallejo paint on exclusively. People also say many good things about Badger Stynylrez.
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Nov 17, 2017 16:38
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What micro pens do folks like to use? Also has anyone found anything that would be good for edging silver? I'm tempted to try the oil-based micro silver pens that Sharpie sells but I'm wondering if there's any other option.Cat Face Joe posted:I use Vallejo paint on exclusively. People also say many good things about Badger Stynylrez. I love the Badger stuff for undercoating. It's amazing.
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Nov 17, 2017 16:58
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:What micro pens do folks like to use? Also has anyone found anything that would be good for edging silver? I'm tempted to try the oil-based micro silver pens that Sharpie sells but I'm wondering if there's any other option. Pigma Micron pens are pretty great, and can get down to a .005 tip. I'm not sure what you're going for with edging silver, but check Amazon for Molotow chrome ink pens. We've discussed them a few months ago in the thread; they're basically like painting with mercury. Scale modelers use them to create realistic chrome effects on classic car bumpers and trim.
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Nov 17, 2017 17:07
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Pigma Micron pens are pretty great, and can get down to a .005 tip. I'm looking for a faster, more consistent way to edge highlight my Primaris marines.
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Nov 17, 2017 17:08
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I'm looking for a faster, more consistent way to edge highlight my Primaris marines. In that case, maybe look for a bright Vallejo silver, like one of their Metal Color line in the 17ml bottles. They're very smooth, with extremely tiny pigment grains and a nice bright finish for all the ones I've tried in that series. I like them better than their alcohol-based Liquid Metal line in terms of ease of use and cleanup.
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Nov 17, 2017 17:57
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