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W. D. Basterd posted:Advice? Eat more fiber and possibly flush twice.
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Nov 13, 2017 00:43
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W. D. Basterd posted:Advice? Don’t post Half-Life 3 spoilers
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Nov 13, 2017 02:11
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W. D. Basterd posted:Advice? Clean the lint trap after every load.
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Nov 13, 2017 03:06
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W. D. Basterd posted:Advice?
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Nov 13, 2017 05:45
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My water heater is located in the attic (a dumb loving place for a tank of water to be) and it was leaking so I needed a replacement. I just had to put a new roof on the house, funds were tight, so I shopped around for a bargain and ended up hiring a plumber that offered a crazy low estimate. You get what you pay for, etc. but the water was nice and hot and I had no complaints. To access my attic, you have to use a ladder through the master bedroom closet - I don't go up there often. Now that it's getting cold, I went up there to flip the damper on my aquatherm heating unit, and saw the water heater job for the first time. It looks like my dude didn't bother connecting the vent to the water heater.    I don't know much of anything, but I'm pretty certain that my tank needs atmospheric venting, and that this is an unfinished job? This plumber has 5 stars on Yelp, Angie's List and the BBB... What do you guys think?
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Nov 13, 2017 20:06
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Consider yourself lucky that CO is marginally lighter than air
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Nov 14, 2017 00:24
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DustyNuts posted:My water heater is located in the attic (a dumb loving place for a tank of water to be) and it was leaking so I needed a replacement. I just had to put a new roof on the house, funds were tight, so I shopped around for a bargain and ended up hiring a plumber that offered a crazy low estimate. You get what you pay for, etc. but the water was nice and hot and I had no complaints. To access my attic, you have to use a ladder through the master bedroom closet - I don't go up there often. Now that it's getting cold, I went up there to flip the damper on my aquatherm heating unit, and saw the water heater job for the first time. I'd call him back for that. That is horrible. Minor note the shark bite is pretty bad also.
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Nov 14, 2017 02:32
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DustyNuts posted:... Have you, by any chance, noticed a sudden increase in the vermin population in your home?
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Nov 14, 2017 02:38
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DustyNuts posted:My water heater is located in the attic (a dumb loving place for a tank of water to be) and it was leaking so I needed a replacement. I just had to put a new roof on the house, funds were tight, so I shopped around for a bargain and ended up hiring a plumber that offered a crazy low estimate. You get what you pay for, etc. but the water was nice and hot and I had no complaints. To access my attic, you have to use a ladder through the master bedroom closet - I don't go up there often. Now that it's getting cold, I went up there to flip the damper on my aquatherm heating unit, and saw the water heater job for the first time. Does where you live not require permits for water heater replacements? We had to pull one when I got mine replaced...
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Nov 14, 2017 02:52
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Someone test this. TIA https://toilet-guru.com/snorkel.php
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Nov 14, 2017 02:53
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Today, I had an HVAC guy come by from the company that replaced my old Apollo heater and A/C to do a quick check to make sure my heating was working properly, and he was pretty appalled by the water heater situation. The plumber re-used pretty much every fitting. HVAC guy advised me to turn off the water heater until the vent was fixed. Also, he said an inspector was supposed to come by to make sure the job was up to code (I'm in Virginia), which was never mentioned to me and certainly never happened. I sent those same photos to the plumber, he said that the wind must have blown the vent pipe enough to cause this to happen. He'll be here tomorrow, I guess I'll mention all of that. devicenull posted:Does where you live not require permits for water heater replacements? We had to pull one when I got mine replaced... Yeah, I'll be asking the plumber about that. Everyone loves the guy on social media though! Double edit: I now own a CO detector. DustyNuts fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Nov 14, 2017 |
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Nov 14, 2017 02:57
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DustyNuts posted:Today, I had an HVAC guy come by from the company that replaced my old Apollo heater and A/C to do a quick check to make sure my heating was working properly, and he was pretty appalled by the water heater situation. The plumber re-used pretty much every fitting. HVAC guy advised me to turn off the water heater until the vent was fixed. Also, he said an inspector was supposed to come by to make sure the job was up to code (I'm in Virginia), which was never mentioned to me and certainly never happened. Uh, wind would probably not knock it that far out of alignment, especially if you just got your roof replaced. Our vent before our roof was replaced was very, very loose. The wind would move it a bit if it got above 60MPH (we knew to go check it, and that disturbed vent usually meant it blew the pilot light out too), but it never got to "guy forgot the rest of the pipe levels." And, after the roof was replaced, the vent was flashed in all nice & sturdy. Do not believe this plumber's lies. I am glad we got our half-in-the-attic hot water tank sorted out. I am definitely just sticking it on the ground when it gets fully replaced next.
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Nov 14, 2017 04:24
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DustyNuts posted:
Lying sack 'o' poo poo. He works like a Philadelphia roofer: figures no one will ever go up there to see/check his work. The worst part is that hooking up the vent there is a bit of a tight job, but not difficult. He would have had to go get the proper reducer - it's a bit of an odd duck for a water heater flue . My guess is that he didn't have one on hand, and couldn't be bothered to make the trip. When he shows up, ask for a copy of the permit. If he pulls the wind story, ask him to produce the reducer & bits that got 'blown off.' When they are installed (eventually), he should lock them in with a couple of self-tapping sheetmetal screws anyway. If he wants to try & charge you for this 'repair," remind him of your photo. It may not budge the needle on Angie's List much, but the township would be thrilled to see that. (edit) Looking at your photos again...is that rust on top of the water heater? How long ago was it installed? There shouldn't be rust on it...if it's a brand-new unit. if it is new, and there was water leaking in from the flue pipe...I'd check your vent from the roof side to be sure it's weather-protected. I see no sign that the pipe jack is leaking where it goes through the roof, or anything...but if rainwater can make its way in, you need to deal with that. It could also be cumulative moisture from mild humidity from the flue venting. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Nov 14, 2017 |
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Nov 14, 2017 15:06
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Not sure if this is the best place to ask but it involves water moving through pipes so here goes. I bought a house this summer and now that it's cold we've had the heat on. It's a steam radiator system. This piece in the basement has been spurting water when the heat's going: I understand it's a vent to let air escape the system. You can see the wood around it is wet from all the water getting out. I went to the local hardware store and they didn't have a replacement for it. My thinking is that it's probably gunked up from hard water. Would it work to pop it off and soak it in CLR to clean it out? If not, anyone know where to buy a replacement? Amazon wasn't much help. For scale, the base of the silver threading is 1" (so the inside is something smaller). And yes I've been keeping an eye on the water levels in the system, the view glass is about a quarter full.
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Nov 18, 2017 17:25
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Clanpot Shake posted:Not sure if this is the best place to ask but it involves water moving through pipes so here goes. I bought a house this summer and now that it's cold we've had the heat on. It's a steam radiator system. This piece in the basement has been spurting water when the heat's going: You may be able to get away with cleaning it but depends on the age and how it was made. Here is a 1/2 air vent on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Taco-Hy-Vent...L70_&dpSrc=srch
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Nov 18, 2017 18:50
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Clanpot Shake posted:Not sure if this is the best place to ask but it involves water moving through pipes so here goes. I bought a house this summer and now that it's cold we've had the heat on. It's a steam radiator system. This piece in the basement has been spurting water when the heat's going: I say take it off, apart, clean it and replace the seals if they're replaceable. If that doesn't work, then you might have to replace it. Is there any maker's mark on it? You may have to get one with the same specs. The problem there is that the largest I've seen for those is 3/4" male... That would involve either using a 3/4" coupler, or unscrewing that bushing off the end and putting a 1/2" female vent directly onto the pipe. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Nov 18, 2017 |
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Nov 18, 2017 23:28
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Two quick newbie questions: 1: What's the practical difference between a $200 shower head and a $20 shower head. I can find what looks like pretty much the same thing at both price points. 2: I need to replace just the shower head. Before I unscrew the old one, do I need to find where the main water shutoff is and shut it off, or can I simply leave the tap switched off and go for it?
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Nov 19, 2017 11:41
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Hyperlynx posted:Two quick newbie questions: The connection on the back of the $20 shower head is plastic. Now compare that to the $200 shower head, which is metal or plastic painted to look like metal. Replacing the shower head would not normally require shutting off the water main because your shower valves should be shutting off the water locally.
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Nov 19, 2017 20:09
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The Gardenator posted:The connection on the back of the $20 shower head is plastic. Now compare that to the $200 shower head, which is metal or plastic painted to look like metal. Cool. Thanks!
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Nov 19, 2017 22:50
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PainterofCrap posted:Lying sack 'o' poo poo. First, thank you for this post. He came back and I posed some questions, and he stuck with his original story. He brought a new reducer with him this time. He didn't use screws the first time around. He also never brought up the idea of me paying him for any of this "extra" work, and it was all free of charge. The water heater was installed in September, and it is a new unit. He thinks the rust developed from water leaking in when the flue pipe was sitting all cockeyed, which may have happened the day after he installed the water heater. I went up there and checked everything out, it's definitely solid now, if a little ugly looking. I got three quotes for this job, $4500, $2800, and his quote was for $1450. So yeah, you get what you pay for, and I'm happy we didn't die of CO poisoning!
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Nov 23, 2017 00:16
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How's this thing look, to the trained eye? It's made of "dezincification resistent brass" which sounds pretty good to me.
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Nov 25, 2017 06:06
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Hyperlynx posted:How's this thing look, to the trained eye? It's made of "dezincification resistent brass" which sounds pretty good to me. I don't recognize the brand but it looks like its a Australlian brand.
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Nov 26, 2017 18:37
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So I've got a couple problems with my toilet. First off, let me say that I rent, but my landlord is old and slow so if I don't do this myself it's going to be a long while. The toilet was leaking from the bottom, and also was not flushing, like there was a clog. I went out and got a replacement wax thing and did that. While the toilet was off I ran a snake through it to make sure it was clear. It was. I put the toilet back on and still whenever I flush it doesn't drain, just starts to overfill. What am I missing here? Clogged sewer/septic line? Picture of wax replacement thingy- 
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Nov 26, 2017 21:19
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Did you make sure there's no clog in the toilet trap?
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Nov 27, 2017 00:07
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glynnenstein posted:Did you make sure there's no clog in the toilet trap? Well put the toilet up on something and looked underneath, and also ran an auger through it with the toilet off, and it went through no problem, so I think I'm as sure as I can be.
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Nov 27, 2017 01:11
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I think you have 2 problems, bad wax ring and a clog. Is the toilet still off? I'd try just pouring water down the drain and see if it rises. That would let you know if the toilet is the problem or not. I do think that the toilet is fine though if you can snake it.
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Nov 27, 2017 04:41
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So, I have a clog situation with the drain for my dishwasher. The dishwasher drains into an small diameter copper pipe under the neighboring sink. I've determined that the dishwasher drains fine through that flexible white hose. The clog is somewhere in the pipe in the wall. I got a skinny snake and snaked as far as I could, which was about 3-4 feet, but that didn't clear it. I imagine I'm hitting a second right-angle bend, and cant get past it. This seems to be a pretty odd drain configuration - the PO remodeled the kitchen, so I don't know how this is plumbed. As the drain pipe is so small, it seems I'm pretty limited on what I can do. Any thoughts? I figure the options are: 1. Get a plumber 2. Get another length of hose to connect to the stub drain and try some chemical method to clear it. 3. Try to connect the dishwasher drain to the sink drain (which drains fine). 4. ??? Here is a picture. Ignore the electrical - I had opened it to see what was in there - Just a junction probably for a previously installed disposal. 
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Nov 27, 2017 18:37
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Nostalgic Cashew posted:So, I have a clog situation with the drain for my dishwasher. The dishwasher drains into an small diameter copper pipe under the neighboring sink. I've determined that the dishwasher drains fine through that flexible white hose. The clog is somewhere in the pipe in the wall. I got a skinny snake and snaked as far as I could, which was about 3-4 feet, but that didn't clear it. I imagine I'm hitting a second right-angle bend, and cant get past it. This seems to be a pretty odd drain configuration - the PO remodeled the kitchen, so I don't know how this is plumbed. You might try a pneumatic plunger type thing. Depending on what is open vs what you can cover up it might work. You're likely to have repeats with small lines like that, though.
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Nov 27, 2017 18:46
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glynnenstein posted:You might try a pneumatic plunger type thing. Depending on what is open vs what you can cover up it might work. You're likely to have repeats with small lines like that, though. You mean something like this?  Yeah, I think this has happened before - I thought it was the impeller pump in the dishwasher, but it somehow cleared itself at the same time, so I thought I fixed it with the new pump.....
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Nov 27, 2017 18:53
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Nostalgic Cashew posted:You mean something like this? Yeah, though they also make small ones that use CO2 cartridges for HVAC guys to clear condensate lines that might be sized (and maybe priced) better for your needs.
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Nov 27, 2017 19:03
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glynnenstein posted:Yeah, though they also make small ones that use CO2 cartridges for HVAC guys to clear condensate lines that might be sized (and maybe priced) better for your needs. Thanks for this - I actually just used a bike pump and a big rubber washer to make the seal between it and the pipe, and that cleared it! Woot!
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Nov 27, 2017 19:34
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Does your dishwasher smell? I would be really worried about that drain connection not being properly trapped the way it disappears into the wall like that. If it were my house I would cut and cap the existing drain where it goes into the wall and use one of these http://a.co/eCWs4Xx to connect the dishwasher to the pipe directly under your sink.
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Nov 27, 2017 22:09
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PremiumSupport posted:Does your dishwasher smell? No, no smell. I recall that there is a trap on the dishwasher before it goes into the hose (and maybe one in the wall?) I did have that exact thought (thanks for the right part link) of connecting to the sink drain. I think if it gives me more trouble, that's exactly what I'll do.
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Nov 27, 2017 23:09
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Do the bulbs used in residential UV water purifiers emit visible light when on? Or only invisible UV?
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Dec 2, 2017 01:26
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Seven Round Things posted:Do the bulbs used in residential UV water purifiers emit visible light when on? Or only invisible UV? I thought it was visible. But its been many years since i've dealt with one.
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Dec 2, 2017 02:43
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Seven Round Things posted:Do the bulbs used in residential UV water purifiers emit visible light when on? Or only invisible UV? My friend's house had a UV purifier...IIRC it was six 8' flourescent tubes arranged around a glass tube. The apparatus did emit a bluish light. e: his system was installed around 1991. A brief search shows that UV purification systems are entirely enclosed now. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Dec 2, 2017 |
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Dec 2, 2017 03:20
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I can't figure out how this was attached so I can't figure out how to put it back. What happened? I assume I can't use anything permanent to fix it, like epoxy, because it has to be removable if I ever have to work on the sink, right?
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Dec 2, 2017 06:09
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jackpot posted:I can't figure out how this was attached so I can't figure out how to put it back. What happened? I assume I can't use anything permanent to fix it, like epoxy, because it has to be removable if I ever have to work on the sink, right? Probably just slides on to the stick and then is held in place with a tiny set screw. Is there a small hole anywhere on the handle that is missing its set screw?
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Dec 2, 2017 06:41
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Messadiah posted:Probably just slides on to the stick and then is held in place with a tiny set screw. Is there a small hole anywhere on the handle that is missing its set screw? He's right on that delta Faucet.
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Dec 3, 2017 16:28
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Ah, thanks. It's pretty clever, the little hot/cold symbol actually pops out and it's inside that.
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Dec 4, 2017 02:34
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