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rdb posted:Yes and odds are the rear main has been bad for a long time. Drive it again and see if its still losing a lot of oil. ...I replaced it in June 
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Nov 13, 2017 00:12
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2009 Gen 1.5 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L I had my winter tires put on on Thursday. The service included "balancing" so I assume my tires are balanced, but whenever I go above 80km/h I get this terrible shimmy in my steering wheel. I don't feel it anywhere else in the car, everything else is still buttery smooth. What is odd about the shimmy is that it is clockwork intermittent. 10-15 seconds PERFECTLY smooth, slow 3-4 second ramp up in jitter and then 10-15 seconds WASHING MACHINE SHIMMY, 3-4 seconds ramp down in jitter and then back to PERFECTLY smooth. I just did a two hour highway drive and this was going on the entire time. I think the only time this doesn't happen is when I was taking wide highway curves but to be perfectly frank at that point I might have just stopped noticing. I can go back and ask them to look at the balancing, and I probably will tomorrow, but if it was a balance thing would that still explain the near clockwork intermittent shimmy? If it was off balance I would just expect it to be a washing machine all the time. edit: To be clear, this was obviously not the case with my summer tires so I'm hoping it's a quick fix and not something wrong with the car itself. I'm just very unsettled by the fact that it comes and goes.
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Nov 13, 2017 02:14
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Check your lug nuts ASAP, it’s possible those dummies didn’t torque them after installing the wheels. Or more likely you’ve got a tire they screwed up balancing.
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Nov 13, 2017 05:01
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kid sinister posted:3. the pressure got so high that it forced all the oil out of the apparently weakest seal: the rear main seal. kid sinister posted:...I replaced it in June 1 billion questions incoming. Did you get it seated evenly (and how did you tap it in)? Any chance you gouged the mating surface? Did you install it spring facing in or out? Did you install it dry, or lube it up before shoving it in?  Was the crank grooved where the old seal was? What brand seal did you use? A lot of it is in the installation. If you install them dry, they're going to leak in a hurry. If the crank has had a ridge formed on it by the seal, it'll leak, but this is a common enough problem on the 302 that you can get a sleeve for the crank (both front and rear). Sleeve itself is $10-15, but if you buy it with the installation tool it's more like $20-50 (depending on front or rear - tool can be replaced with a block of wood and a mallet if you want). And of course.. #3 is the most likely scenario, possibly coupled with a seal that's already failing. For all of this, I'm assuming it uses a 1 piece seal that taps in, instead of the older style 2 piece that requires unbolting a bearing cap (like my 1980 F-150). 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Nov 13, 2017 |
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Nov 13, 2017 07:36
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So as I understand it the power of car engines rose steadily from when they were created until the end of the muscle car era in the 60s and 70s when new emissions regulations were put in place. They took a big drop after that but started rising again steadily in the 80s, 90s, and 2000s. It seems like now in the 2010s the rate of horsepower increase is actually going up, which seems odd to me since the gasoline internal combustion engine is such a mature technology. Could anyone explain to me why engines have been seeing big HP gains lately? I guess the same could apply to diesel engine torque in light trucks which has also gone way up in the past decade or so.
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Nov 13, 2017 08:49
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MaxxBot posted:So as I understand it the power of car engines rose steadily from when they were created until the end of the muscle car era in the 60s and 70s when new emissions regulations were put in place. They took a big drop after that but started rising again steadily in the 80s, 90s, and 2000s. It seems like now in the 2010s the rate of horsepower increase is actually going up, which seems odd to me since the gasoline internal combustion engine is such a mature technology. Could anyone explain to me why engines have been seeing big HP gains lately? I guess the same could apply to diesel engine torque in light trucks which has also gone way up in the past decade or so. Continually improving engine control technology. The ability to control air/fuel mixtures and spark timing (and even valve timing) to such an exceptionally fine degree has allowed vastly greater output while minimizing emissions.
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Nov 13, 2017 12:49
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Direct injection, higher compression ratios, turbos on everything. The auto industry works mostly in incremental changes, so it is probably a more gradual change than you think.
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Nov 13, 2017 13:21
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Any ideas why my d100 with a new alternator, new battery and new regulator only charges when it's at like 2k rpm? It starts off on a high idle which charges around 13.7V rising, ends up sitting at around 2k I think (no tach) and charges at a healthy 14V. When it gets to a more normal sounding idle the battery seems to see a draw instead of a charge. Once the RPMs go up the charging resumes.
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Nov 13, 2017 14:46
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Deteriorata posted:Continually improving engine control technology. The ability to control air/fuel mixtures and spark timing (and even valve timing) to such an exceptionally fine degree has allowed vastly greater output while minimizing emissions. totalnewbie posted:Direct injection, higher compression ratios, turbos on everything. These, combined with a market willing to pay for such things. These continual improvements are not cheap. Direct injection requires a mechanical high pressure fuel pump, special injectors, and new engine tuning. Some engines use both direct and port injection, so they also have the cost of regular injectors, a separate fuel rail, and programmed logic on when to run each fuel system. Stuff like the Demon has been possible for a long time - everything about that car is just a drag racer trick taken to the extreme. What's unusual is that it was done by the factory. The current horsepower war is still impressive. The first time around, you just put good heads and a giant cam in a big block engine. It idled like poo poo and needed valve adjustments on a regular basis, but who cares, it's not like it had to pass emissions. Today the Demon may come with a list of don'ts but you can still idle it around town as long as you like and you won't foul the plugs or anything.
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Nov 13, 2017 15:00
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IOwnCalculus posted:. Direct injection requires a mechanical high pressure fuel pump, special injectors, and new engine tuning. New spark plugs, too! And lots more exhaust components for soot protection in certain markets (depends on emissions requirements) which requires more sensors for component control and OBD. But there's tons of stuff OEMs do to get more power/fuel economy that all have ripped effects. It's honestly a miracle cars are as "cheap" as they are.
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Nov 13, 2017 17:33
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PaintVagrant posted:Check your lug nuts ASAP, it’s possible those dummies didn’t torque them after installing the wheels. Or more likely you’ve got a tire they screwed up balancing. Thanks. Lug nuts seem OK. When you say screwed up you mean they'd just need to re-balance, right? I'd hate for them to have somehow boned my whole tire :|
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Nov 13, 2017 17:37
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:1 billion questions incoming. Yes I tapped it in properly. I even bought the special applicator tool to install it along with the extra ring/sleeve that's supposed to stop these leaks. I don't think that I gouged it. I watched videos on it beforehand and very gently removed it with a small flathead. Spring side in. I gave it a wipe of oil all around with my finger. I didn't notice a groove. Fel-pro for everything: seal, ring and applicator. Yes, the seal is normally a one piece seal, but they do make the extra repair ring. Yes, I got the proper seal designed to work with the ring. You know, I wonder if it's the flywheel bolts. The holes for those bolts go all the way through. I thought I made sure to use blue thread locker liberally and torqued down everything to spec, but who knows?
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Nov 13, 2017 18:37
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Then yup, you did it by the book. Probably just got oil forced out by the pressure. It might seal back up on its own, it might not.  But yeah I've heard, even sleeved, sometimes they just keep on leaking. If it's only a few drops after the PCV is taken care of, I'd just live with it, personally, until the clutch needs some love.
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Nov 13, 2017 19:02
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Between my dad and I we've done the rms on the 5.0 he has now probably 4-5 times before it finally stopped leaking. I owned it for like 4 years and he bought it from me and still has it. I've never had that happen on anything besides that small block Ford. They are sensitive to that seal for some reason. At least by now we can have it torn down to that point in like an hour but it finally stopped leaking the last time he had the trans out.
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Nov 13, 2017 19:09
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So uh how good are you with FWD clutch jobs? The Saturd is gonna need one soon, it might be cheaper to buy you a round trip plane ticket  (was quoted $1200 by one shop, $1500 by another... that's close to what the car is worth, and was very much "gently caress you we don't want this job" pricing)
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Nov 13, 2017 19:14
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shy boy from chess club posted:At least by now we can have it torn down to that point in like an hour Explain your magic, please and thank you.
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Nov 13, 2017 19:18
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It's a manual trans and the exhaust unbolts really easy. That and a lot of practice, haha.
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Nov 13, 2017 19:31
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:So uh how good are you with FWD clutch jobs? The Saturd is gonna need one soon, it might be cheaper to buy you a round trip plane ticket I pretty much stick to VWs and Subarus since they are easy to work on and have a lot of experience with them. American cars only if they are 80s and older and RWD. I did the LIM gaskets on my aunt and uncles 01 Regal GS (supercharged) and it was a loving nightmare and solidified my hatred for working on American cars. Sorry man, I'd probably want a grand or more also, haha.
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Nov 13, 2017 19:35
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Haha. It was mostly a joke, but yeah... it's a subframe-out job on this drat thing. I think TT managed to do his trans swap without dropping the subframe entirely, but he said it was a bitch of a job. LIMs are bad enough without the supercharger in the way. At least my car has a one piece intake without coolant running through it.. though it's been losing coolant with no trace for a few months. Hoping the new surge tank cap I put on took care of that, old one was cracked (please don't be the head gasket...)
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Nov 13, 2017 20:17
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Martytoof posted:Thanks. Lug nuts seem OK. When you say screwed up you mean they'd just need to re-balance, right? I'd hate for them to have somehow boned my whole tire :| Probably just improperly balanced. Either way it’s on their dime.
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Nov 13, 2017 20:21
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shy boy from chess club posted:It's a manual trans and the exhaust unbolts really easy. That and a lot of practice, haha. Very true, but how do you get it out of the way to drop the tranny? The cat won't fit through the transmission crossbeam, you need to remove it to drop the Y pipe, and to remove that, you need to drop the transmission. Or do you just slide back the transmission? I thought about doing that, but the little shifter stub on top of my manual made be rethink that option. In other news, I went on a 20 minute errand with my extra oil this time. It still pukes oil out the RMS. I bet I'd just need to get off the flywheel and push it back in lol
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Nov 13, 2017 21:05
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kid sinister posted:Very true, but how do you get it out of the way to drop the tranny? The cat won't fit through the transmission crossbeam, you need to remove it to drop the Y pipe, and to remove that, you need to drop the transmission. Or do you just slide back the transmission? I thought about doing that, but the little shifter stub on top of my manual made be rethink that option. Oh when I said 5.0 I meant Mustang GT, not in a truck. Way different setup and the exhaust is wicked easy to unbolt on it especially since it was newish and not rusted at all. Im not sure of the details on a truck. You might be able to just sneak the trans back enough without taking it all the way out to get to the seal. I havent done it myself but someone I know claims it can be done though he is also kind of a bullshit artist so I couldnt say for sure. Same rear end in a top hat owes me money for working on his huge piece of poo poo plow truck that I just remembered.
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Nov 13, 2017 22:46
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Haha. It was mostly a joke, but yeah... it's a subframe-out job on this drat thing. I think TT managed to do his trans swap without dropping the subframe entirely, but he said it was a bitch of a job. Oh yea I did do a trans on a Saturn once, I forgot about that. It was like a 95 though and yea we were supposed to drop the subframe but were able to bend it down and sneak it out without dropping the whole thing. Working in my sand driveway in Florida too that blew rear end. The most fun part is when we got the new trans in and it went super easy, had everything bolted back together and giving high fives and poo poo when we found the clutch fork and throwout bearing on the ground since we forgot it. Man that loving sucked and of course the trans was a super bitch to get in the second time. No more Saturns for me, no sir.
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Nov 13, 2017 22:50
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Yeah i dont know about that specific year but up until 2000 or so i think you still have to drop the exhaust and i think the easiest way is to just cut it out. I mean definetly remember doing that but it also needed a new exhaust anyways so i dont remember if i had to.
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Nov 13, 2017 23:20
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1995 Jeep Cherokee 4.0. Do these fit it? I have no faith in compatible model listings having ended up with incompatible parts in the past. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-Lower-Upper-Ball-Joints-for-Jeep-CHEROKEE-XJ-1996-2005/141744434665 e: It's a considerable price hit but I found an upper and lower at a town about 1-1/2 hours away for $65 each. It's only remotely worth it because I was already going there. Given I only have two weeks to perform all the repairs, the wait time for mail ordered parts is a dangerous unknown. General_Failure fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Nov 14, 2017 |
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Nov 14, 2017 02:02
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MaxxBot posted:So as I understand it the power of car engines rose steadily from when they were created until the end of the muscle car era in the 60s and 70s when new emissions regulations were put in place. They took a big drop after that but started rising again steadily in the 80s, 90s, and 2000s. It seems like now in the 2010s the rate of horsepower increase is actually going up, which seems odd to me since the gasoline internal combustion engine is such a mature technology. Could anyone explain to me why engines have been seeing big HP gains lately? I guess the same could apply to diesel engine torque in light trucks which has also gone way up in the past decade or so. It wasn't really emissions regulations that killed power in the early 70s. In 1972 the US auto industry changed the way it quoted engine power. Any horsepower figures from before 1972 are literally complete lies as the manufacturer was essentially allowed to rig the test to get whatever figures they wanted, and the figures would be massively inflated for marketing reasons. They would put the exact same engine in two different models and claim one had 250hp and one had 350hp. When measurement was switched to a more accurate and scientific system in 1972 suddenly all those "400hp" cars turned out to really have ~250hp if they were lucky. Stricter emissions rules didn't come in until a year later, and initially only had a small effect on power - say 250hp down to 235hp. It wasn't until the late 70s and early 80s that engines were really being strangled, and then as others have said, it was gradual improvements in electronics and control technology that got the figures back up again.
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Nov 14, 2017 12:49
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2006 Infiniti M45 Was an idiot and went too fast over a speedbump. Came down hard on a large lane dividing bump (why am I in the center of the road? Again, dumbass in a rush). This shattered a corner of the aluminum oilpan and left 3 decent cracks. Hole is about half an inch and longest crack is maybe 4 inches. I've replaced an oilpan before and it looks really hard to do on this car, so I decide to attempt a repair with fiberglass. This goes as you would expect, it leaks, but I think I have the source of the leak identified. Should have doubled the amount of epoxy used. Drained the oil and planning to cover the area in RTV silicone today. I wager this a 50/50 shot at holding as the suspect area is along a weird edge the crack followed. - If I end up taking it into a shop, do I just pay out of pocket or go through insurance? - Any better sealant than RTV silicone I should reach for? Will post horrorpics this week assuming I don't get flamed too hard.
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Nov 14, 2017 15:21
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Chunjee posted:2006 Infiniti M45 I appreciate your tenacity with that repair. Maybe a JB Weld or similar bonding epoxy will work better? I looked at pictures of the oil pan situation on the VK45DE on the M, that looks....fun? You'll probably have to pay out of pocket, but it may be worth calling your insurance and just see what kind of coverage they have for personal damage coverage?
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Nov 14, 2017 15:31
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Sweevo posted:It wasn't really emissions regulations that killed power in the early 70s. In 1972 the US auto industry changed the way it quoted engine power. Any horsepower figures from before 1972 are literally complete lies as the manufacturer was essentially allowed to rig the test to get whatever figures they wanted, and the figures would be massively inflated for marketing reasons. They would put the exact same engine in two different models and claim one had 250hp and one had 350hp. When measurement was switched to a more accurate and scientific system in 1972 suddenly all those "400hp" cars turned out to really have ~250hp if they were lucky. Stricter emissions rules didn't come in until a year later, and initially only had a small effect on power - say 250hp down to 235hp. It wasn't until the late 70s and early 80s that engines were really being strangled, and then as others have said, it was gradual improvements in electronics and control technology that got the figures back up again. It's both. Those same cars that went from 400 to 250-300 ended up with awful intake/exhaust designs, with ridiculously low compression and found themselves well under 200 hp. You had V8s that couldn't meet emissions requirements getting replaced by 6s and 4s that could, while cranking out 90-120 hp. Emissions controls absolutely contributed to the demise of horsepower, and even though the systems started showing up in 1967, they were in full, lovely swing by the early 70s. A 1970 Corvette had a 300 hp 350. 1971 it was down to 270. 1972, the first year they used SAE Net, it was 200. 1973 was down to a whopping 190 hp. By '75 it was 165. These were driven by emissions requirements. Godholio fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Nov 14, 2017 |
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Nov 14, 2017 16:48
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:I appreciate your tenacity with that repair. Maybe a JB Weld or similar bonding epoxy will work better? I looked at pictures of the oil pan situation on the VK45DE on the M, that looks....fun? You'll probably have to pay out of pocket, but it may be worth calling your insurance and just see what kind of coverage they have for personal damage coverage? It’ll be an at fault collision loss, so you’d be out your deductible and it’ll raise rates on the next renewal. They could also decline to pay for some or all of the damage since they weren’t made aware of loss, which is a duty of the insured in the policy contract. Not very likely, but just something to be aware of.
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Nov 14, 2017 17:05
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:I appreciate your tenacity with that repair. Maybe a JB Weld or similar bonding epoxy will work better? I looked at pictures of the oil pan situation on the VK45DE on the M, that looks....fun? You'll probably have to pay out of pocket, but it may be worth calling your insurance and just see what kind of coverage they have for personal damage coverage? One of the biggest problems with trying to fix an oil pan like this is contamination from the oil itself. It's really hard to keep the joint clear of oil unless you take the pan off, and at that point... put a new pan on. I remember someone on Jalopnik once accomplishing this by some crazy assed setup wherein they basically stuck one patch on to try and slow the flow of oil to where the epoxy was, and then epoxied the actual oil-holding patch in outside of that, in hopes that the epoxy would cure before it gets contaminated.
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Nov 14, 2017 17:10
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Pretty sure I'd put "oil pan" on the list of engine components not to epoxy shut.
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Nov 14, 2017 18:10
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2014 Hyundai Accent, ~38k miles Couple of quick question on changing brake rotors, specifically about the two bolts that hold the caliper assembly in place (not the two that attach the piston to the caliper). 1. They are a bitch to get out. When reassembling, is using anti-seize in the hopes of making any future maintenance easier a good idea or a bad one since you really don't want those bolts even thinking of vibrating off? 2. Any idea what they should be torqued to upon reassembly? Thanks!
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Nov 14, 2017 18:23
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Are mufflers interchangeable / can I use a generic, or does it have to be one specifically designed for my vehicle (C5 Audi A6)?
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Nov 14, 2017 18:24
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I don't really read any other posts in the forum so I'll just leave this here: If someone needs new wiper blades the Bosch Icons are on clearance (at my closest Walmart at least) for $9. They're normally $15 at Walmart or $20 at an auto parts store. Their online site should tell you if they have any close to you.
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Nov 14, 2017 18:29
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:Are mufflers interchangeable / can I use a generic, or does it have to be one specifically designed for my vehicle (C5 Audi A6)? You can adapt/fabricate stuff using universal components, or adapt an exhaust from something else, but if you were in a position to do that, you probably wouldn't be asking. The middle ground is that you can get someone to fabricate one for you, but it's quite likely to cost a lot more than an off the shelf one, unless it's a particularly odd/hard to find one, or the prices are nuts.
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Nov 14, 2017 18:44
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cigaw posted:2014 Hyundai Accent, ~38k miles Use anti seize. I usually run my caliper bolts back in with my cordless impact driver. Tighten them down, slowly then just a half second of holding the trigger down all the way. Your results may vary.... There should be a torque spec for those bolts, but you'd need a shop manual for that. Haynes manual usually has (mostly) correct torque specs in there. Keep in mind that anti-seize will throw that off. Like say if you use anti-seize and then torque to whatever spec, the anti-seize will act as a lube and they will actually be tighter than what your torque wrench tells you.
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Nov 14, 2017 18:47
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:Are mufflers interchangeable / can I use a generic, or does it have to be one specifically designed for my vehicle (C5 Audi A6)? Mufflers tend to be a design afterthought stuck into whatever nook or cranny they can find under the car. While there isn't any particularly unique technology in any of them and they are interchangeable in principle, getting the right size and shape to fit under your particular car can be difficult. So a generic one might fit, but it might not. If it's not the same size as the original, you'll need to do some piping and that can get complicated.
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Nov 14, 2017 18:49
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thylacine posted:I don't really read any other posts in the forum so I'll just leave this here: If someone needs new wiper blades the Bosch Icons are on clearance (at my closest Walmart at least) for $9. They're normally $15 at Walmart or $20 at an auto parts store. Their online site should tell you if they have any close to you. Oh cool, I thought it was just my local store. Unfortunately they didn't have one of the ones I needed last night.  But I can check another store now that I know they're blowing them out everywhere.
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Nov 14, 2017 18:50
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cigaw posted:2014 Hyundai Accent, ~38k miles Those bolts are usually torqued to between 60-75 ft/lbs on Hyundai/Kias. I wouldn't use anti-sieze on them because that alters the torque. These bolts are always tight as hell. Just get bigger wrenches! I sometimes use a 1/2" drive 30" breaker bar to get those off. I also am extremely fond of the Gearwrench Gearbox XL wrenches, they work darn good for these. They are often above 120ft/lbs on some cars. Some manufacturers used stretch bolts. Some used threadlock on them too. Hyundai didn't though.
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Nov 14, 2017 18:52
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