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LampkinsMateSteve posted:Probably quite a personal thing. I keep justifying not buying the footswitch because I don't gig, but your points have just about swayed me.
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Nov 13, 2017 16:31
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For what I play, it is a lot of quiet, quiet, loud, loud, quiet, quiet, insane overdrive. Nirvana and the like. But just noodling around, playing the same riff using up to 9 different press/tones, and switching between them is a lot of fun for me. I hadn't realised how much taking my hands of the guitar disrupts the flow for me.
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This makes me feel like a dickhead to say, but every once in a while the right tone can make or break a riff, sometimes just adding some fuzz or octaver instead of distortion can make a big difference. -goes back to using the same Amplitube preset as the last 8 months-
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Nov 13, 2017 19:15
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AlphaDog posted:How was the foot controller the game changer? Asking because I'm constantly nearly buying one and then going "nah, I don't need it" and then nearly buyin it anyway and then... Spatulater bro! posted:I keep justifying not buying the footswitch because I don't gig, but your points have just about swayed me. It has a patch mode + an effects mode, so you can jump to different "pedalboards" while you're playing and turn things on and off as you would in a normal rig. Plus you can add an expression pedal for volume or effects control. It's good! I don't even really twiddle knobs on mine at this point.
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Nov 13, 2017 22:03
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I'm impressed with the OCD. Not just the great tone, but the build quality of the pedal is stunning.
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Nov 14, 2017 03:23
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Is riffcityguitaroutlet.com a reputable place to buy a guitar? Anyone bought anything from them before?
Krustic fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Nov 14, 2017 |
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Nov 14, 2017 17:05
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Krustic posted:Is riffcityguitaroutlet.com a reputable place to buy a guitar? Anyone bought anything from them before? I stumbled on these guys when I was looking for a Squier Deluxe Jazzmaster. I live in MN, so I actually went to their store, and I was thrilled. Private demo room, good deal on the Squier, and definitely people who care about what they’re doing.
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Nov 15, 2017 02:31
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I'm getting a ton of loud hiss when I connect my OCD into the fx loop of my Katana. No hiss when I go straight in. Amp's gain is at zero. Clean amp mode. Is this normal?
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Nov 15, 2017 21:22
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Spatulater bro! posted:I'm getting a ton of loud hiss when I connect my OCD into the fx loop of my Katana. No hiss when I go straight in. Amp's gain is at zero. Clean amp mode. Is this normal? My guess is that the signal sent from the effects loop is at a higher level than the one your guitar puts out. You want to plug that straight into the front of the amp because when it's in the effects loop it's basically in between the pre-amp and the power amp, so you put time based effects (chorus, delay, reverb) in the loop and anything that effects the gain (OD, distortion) or the EQ (wah, eq) in front of the amp. This isn't a hard fact, do whatever you want, but this is the general rule of thumb.
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Nov 15, 2017 21:30
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Spanish Manlove posted:My guess is that the signal sent from the effects loop is at a higher level than the one your guitar puts out. Yeah. The reason I'm trying it in the loop is so I can use the amp's tube screamer effect before the OCD. I guess I should just get a real tube screamer.
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Nov 15, 2017 22:02
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Spatulater bro! posted:I'm getting a ton of loud hiss when I connect my OCD into the fx loop of my Katana. No hiss when I go straight in. Amp's gain is at zero. Clean amp mode. Is this normal? If you use Tone Studio, have you tried playing around with the signal chain?  There is also a noise gate available. https://static.roland.com/assets/media/pdf/BTS_KATANA_e01_W.pdf
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Nov 15, 2017 22:24
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Spatulater bro! posted:I guess I should just get a real tube screamer. (do not actually buy this soundtanks are incredibly cheap and nasty) Edit: I used to have a flanger Soundtank (I technically still do but it's at my parents' house and that's 3000 miles away). You could make some cool noises with it because it would self-oscillate with the feedback up all the way, but hooooly poo poo the casing was awful - just the cheapest, thinnest plastic ever. BDA fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Nov 15, 2017 |
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Nov 15, 2017 22:34
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LampkinsMateSteve posted:If you use Tone Studio, have you tried playing around with the signal chain? Yep I use Tone Studio a lot. But as is noted on that image, the FX loop is always after the pre-amp.
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Nov 15, 2017 22:36
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Anime Reference posted:https://reverb.com/p/ibanez-ts5-tube-screamer Man, tube screamers are expensive, I expected them to be like $40 used on ebay and they're all $65+ and I forget which model is the supposed best. TS808?
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Nov 15, 2017 22:46
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Spanish Manlove posted:Man, tube screamers are expensive, I expected them to be like $40 used on ebay and they're all $65+ and I forget which model is the supposed best. TS808? Maxon (holds true for either the OD9 or the OD808)
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Nov 15, 2017 23:15
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Schpyder posted:Maxon OD8, OD808, OD9?
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Nov 15, 2017 23:16
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I have a cheap as dirt Joyo tube screamer clone and I love it. I think I paid around 20 bucks on reverb.
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Nov 15, 2017 23:47
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Just ordered a cheap DIY Tele kit from eBay. I've never soldered anything, have minimal woodworking experience and can't paint for poo poo, so it should be a nice adventure, and if I completely gently caress it up, at least it was only $60. Anybody ever done one of these before? Any tips or things you wish you'd known beforehand? I'm spending my time watching wiring, soldering, painting and fretwork tutorials before it arrives, but I imagine most of that knowledge will go out the window once I have a box of assorted parts in my hands.
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Nov 16, 2017 00:34
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good soldering technique is pretty easy to get the hang of. extra clips and clamps to hold wires and pots help tremendously most finish work involves a ton of patience and testing things on scrap wood first
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Nov 16, 2017 01:42
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I have a student that I sold one of my guitars to and it was her first electric so she needed an amp too. After some discussion about different kinds, she decided to get a 50-watt katana even though I didn’t have any experience with it since I have heard good things. She brought it to her lesson this week and it was interesting to see it after hearing so much about it, particularly in comparison to the Mustang GT Amos since I have a lot of experience with the GT100. One thing I was surprised by with the Katana was the lack of options on the amp. I expected to not see everything usable because of needing to plug it into a computer to set things up but compared to the GT100 they really make it harder to get to all of the features, and for someone like her I don’t think she will be using anything other than what is already available on the amp since she has no experience with amps and setting stuff up on a pc would be too confusing. That is kind of good since she will have fewer options when trying things out and be getting used to what an amplifier can do but I was imagining something like the GT where you can just flip through all of the different effects to experiment with all of the different sounds that are possible. Having the knob for different amp types is probably more useful for her since there are so many different amp models readily available on the GT and having on acoustic, clean, lead etc. is more straightforward for a beginner. Since it was my old guitar I was also curious how it would sound with rue stock clean sounds on the Katana and I think the cleans are better on the GT, at least out of the box. It was also kind of confusing that it had the standard gain/volume as well as a dedicated knob, I think it was boost, to control overdrive. I am guessing this is to simulate having a booster pedal but it seemed odd to dedicate one knob to that when there could have been another effects knob or something else that would keep you from having to go to your PC as often. Overall it was a good amp and I am tempted to get one to play with it and news around with the PC program. The main thing I was considering though was leaving it at the conservatory I teach at and I don't think it would work so well there because I wouldn't be able to use everything the amp can offer without a computer to plug it into. Ironically if it were just sold as is without a program for 150 bucks I think it would be great and wouldn’t be complaining but I don’t like how inaccessible the features are after having used the GT100, where I can not only do everything I want to with just the amp but also make it even easier by using the phone app.
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Nov 16, 2017 03:47
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If I could put my amplitube tone into an amp I would be very happy. Edit: then again, I could accomplish the same thing with a 6505
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Nov 16, 2017 04:03
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Spanish Manlove posted:If I could put my amplitube tone into an amp I would be very happy. Does anyone make a legit 5150 amp in a can besides the Dunn Effects stuff? That seems really weird there isn’t one. I think I bought his last board, too 😢 
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Nov 16, 2017 04:50
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I imagine peavy and fender furiously file C&Ds on anyone who does make tiny little 5150 clones. If they weren't so expensive I would totally have one of the lunchbox versions but oh well.
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Nov 16, 2017 04:53
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Spanish Manlove posted:I imagine peavy and fender furiously file C&Ds on anyone who does make tiny little 5150 clones. If they weren't so expensive I would totally have one of the lunchbox versions but oh well. Matt Dunn will make you one. http://www.dunneffects.com
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Nov 16, 2017 04:58
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Dang It Bhabhi! posted:Matt Dunn will make you one. http://www.dunneffects.com Remind me in like a few months when I have money because that looks cool.
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Nov 16, 2017 05:01
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Spanish Manlove posted:I imagine peavy and fender furiously file C&Ds on anyone who does make tiny little 5150 clones. If they weren't so expensive I would totally have one of the lunchbox versions but oh well. amt's been selling 5150 fet clones for ages https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thQX0DoLEuw
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Nov 16, 2017 05:08
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Spanish Manlove posted:I imagine peavy and fender furiously file C&Ds on anyone who does make tiny little 5150 clones. If they weren't so expensive I would totally have one of the lunchbox versions but oh well. $600 isn’t bad for the 15 watt 5150. Everyone seems to like them. I wouldn’t mind owning one but I don’t know if I’d want the 5150 or 6505 or what the differences are anyway.
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Nov 16, 2017 05:14
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Kilometers Davis posted:$600 isn’t bad for the 15 watt 5150. Everyone seems to like them. just get a peavey jsx off reverb for like $500 more versatile and they can be dialed in to the old 5150 crunch channel sound pretty easily
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Nov 16, 2017 05:34
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Dang It Bhabhi! posted:Does anyone make a legit 5150 amp in a can besides the Dunn Effects stuff? That seems really weird there isn’t one. I think I bought his last board, too 😢 I play through an AMT P1, which is JFET recreation of the 5150 preamp section, into a power amp 90% of the time and it sounds balls to the wall amazing. I actually got rid of a mini 6505 head because this thing sounds better to my ears, especially at a volume low enough to not annoy people in my apartment building at 3am. Apparently the Amptweaker Tightmetal series is heavily based on the 5150 too (and I think designed by the same guy who designed the 5150?), but I haven't played one.
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Nov 16, 2017 07:38
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Gnumonic posted:I play through an AMT P1, which is JFET recreation of the 5150 preamp section, into a power amp 90% of the time and it sounds balls to the wall amazing. I actually got rid of a mini 6505 head because this thing sounds better to my ears, especially at a volume low enough to not annoy people in my apartment building at 3am. Of course, I had a brain fart. Amptweaker is James Brown he who designed the 5150. Those pedals are legit. TIGHTMETULZ KVLT!!!
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Nov 16, 2017 07:40
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There's also the MXR 5150 preamp pedal, which sounds great to me.
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Nov 16, 2017 08:29
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Lester Shy posted:Just ordered a cheap DIY Tele kit from eBay. I've never soldered anything, have minimal woodworking experience and can't paint for poo poo, so it should be a nice adventure, and if I completely gently caress it up, at least it was only $60. PM me if you need specific advice. Can't guarantee I can help (I'm definitely amateur level at this) but I've completed 4 kits so far, including converting a bass kit to fretless. I started with the ability to identify some woodworking tools, and an hour's soldering experience from ~15 years ago. General advice: You'll be doing a whole bunch of sanding. Get good sandpaper, it'll probably end up cheaper in the long run because it probably won't clog up after 2 minutes. Measure everything twice, then measure it again, then check that those measurements are right. Then dry fit it and/or clamp it in place and measure it again. Then again. Then check if you got it right. Then start drilling. You probably want some kind of grain filler to help you get the body smooth. Hope you like sanding. Sand it more, trust me. Soldering's easy, just watch a youtube video and you can do it. Guitar wiring's super simple as far as electronics go, and a tele's about the easiest thing you could do with two pickups. Don't sweat it. You're still not done sanding. Shield the pickup and control cavities and the back of the pickguard where the neck pickup goes through with copper tape or something. All the copper taped pieces should connect to each other somehow (a wire's the easiest), and don't forget the bridge ground. You think you've finished sanding now, but you're wrong. Test everything on a spare piece of wood first. If possible, use the same kind of wood as the guitar. For real though, it's not smooth yet, keep sanding. Finishing is 39% prep work (did I mention sanding), 1% applying thin coats, and 60% DON'T TOUCH IT YET IT''S NOT CURED. Haha, did you think you were finished sanding? You waited 3 weeks for the final coat to cure and then tried to polish it, which is like sanding but more painstaking. It was not cured, and the finish is now ruined. This is salvageable with enough careful sanding. edit: Is it a "flamed maple" top or anything? On kits those are usually really really thin veneers, and you shouldn't sand them very much at all or you'll sand right through. Start with 320 grit and go really really slowly and carefully. edit 2: With a bolt-on neck there's not much you can irrepairably gently caress up that will leave you with an unplayable guitar, but plenty you could do that'll leave you with a paintjob or stain that looks Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 09:30 on Nov 16, 2017 |
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Nov 16, 2017 09:22
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Gnumonic posted:
i have the big fancypants version. james brown himself said the eq curve is based on the ampeg vh-140 rather than the 5150 and it definitely sounds closer to the former Dang It Bhabhi! posted:Of course, I had a brain fart. Amptweaker is James Brown he who designed the 5150. Those pedals are legit. TIGHTMETULZ KVLT!!! my favorite ridiculous yet kinda neat feature of his pedals is the opamps are plugged into ic sockets The Muppets On PCP fucked around with this message at 11:06 on Nov 16, 2017 |
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Nov 16, 2017 10:57
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AlphaDog posted:PM me if you need specific advice. Can't guarantee I can help (I'm definitely amateur level at this) but I've completed 4 kits so far, including converting a bass kit to fretless. I started with the ability to identify some woodworking tools, and an hour's soldering experience from ~15 years ago. But how do I make the wood smooth?
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Nov 16, 2017 16:36
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Spatulater bro! posted:But how do I make the wood smooth? I've been sanding for months, and if it ever gets there, I'll let you know. Lester Shy posted:Just ordered a cheap DIY Tele kit from eBay. I've never soldered anything, have minimal woodworking experience and can't paint for poo poo, so it should be a nice adventure, and if I completely gently caress it up, at least it was only $60. A tele was my first kit, and I'm on my 4th right now (should be done in the next week!) and the loooong post with the frequent references to sanding is a good one. Just take your time; the only real way to gently caress up a tele bolt on kit is rushing to get it done. Enjoy the process, and post pics! Lumpy fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Nov 16, 2017 |
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Nov 16, 2017 17:54
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Lester Shy posted:Just ordered a cheap DIY Tele kit from eBay. I've never soldered anything, have minimal woodworking experience and can't paint for poo poo, so it should be a nice adventure, and if I completely gently caress it up, at least it was only $60. There are some YouTube vids on how to make something good out of a cheap kit like that. Usually it requires a bit of work since the kits are fairly "off" at times but with some time on your hands and patience you'll be able to put together a decent guitar.
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Nov 16, 2017 21:19
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My Zoom G9.2tt board is getting old, and a bunch of the buttons and switch don't really work. What's a good multi-FX board to replace it with, that's max 500€?
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Nov 17, 2017 15:36
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Boz0r posted:My Zoom G9.2tt board is getting old, and a bunch of the buttons and switch don't really work. What's a good multi-FX board to replace it with, that's max 500€? I recently purchased the zoom g3xn and am very happy with that because the new interface Zoom introduced is pretty slick and sounds great. The premium version of that is the G5n and something you may want to look into if you liked Zoom. The other raving reviews I've seen are for the Boss GT-100 which is near your max.
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Nov 17, 2017 16:34
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Boss GT-1?
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Nov 17, 2017 19:53
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Sanity Checks! Sanity check #1: I have had a couple 12" speakers laying around for a while, and since I just ordered a Katana head, I figured I would put them in a cabinet! The cabinet in question came pre-wired in parallel. Due to the impedance of the speakers (they are 8 ohms) and that of the head (it's output jack is 8 ohms), using that parallel wiring would be a Bad Idea™ because it would give me a 4 ohm cabinet, and cabinet less than amp is a no-no from what I have read. So, I will wire in serial, which will make cabinet 16 ohms, and, while not optimal, will not be an awful idea. Does this sound correct? Sanity check #2: To make the cabinet series, I can connect one of the Jack positive (JP1) leads to my first speaker positive (SP1) then connect that negative (SN1) to the positive of the other speaker (SP2) with a new wire (not pictured!), then connect the negative of that speaker (SN2) to one of the jack negative leads (JN1). I make sure the unused leads (JN2, JP2) don't touching anything. Does this sound correct? Bonus sanity check: If later in life I get two 4 ohm speakers, I just connect JP1->SP1, SN1->JN1 and JP2->SP2, SN2->JN2 and I get an 8 ohm parallel cabinet, yes? I'm sure this is super basic stuff, but I'm a big baby and don't want to explode my amp when it comes in on Tuesday!
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Nov 17, 2017 22:17
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Depends on the power amp circuit. Some amps can run a higher ohm load no problem while others expect a specific load.
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Nov 17, 2017 22:36
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