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The glass beds that I keep getting for my Monoprice Maker Ultimate keep breaking when I have a large surface area PETG print. Just part of the glass flakes off. Useful for arrowheads, not so much for my prints. Any tips? I came across an article that said to use a screen protector, but I can't find one that covers my whole bed. Any help or pointers would rule.
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Nov 16, 2017 00:03
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What kind of glass are you using? Borosilicate works the best for quite a few reasons.
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Nov 16, 2017 00:15
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NewFatMike posted:The glass beds that I keep getting for my Monoprice Maker Ultimate keep breaking when I have a large surface area PETG print. Just part of the glass flakes off. Useful for arrowheads, not so much for my prints. Is it sticking too hard?
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Nov 16, 2017 00:16
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Dessert Rose posted:What kind of glass are you using? Borosilicate works the best for quite a few reasons. This is what I got most recently, appears to be borosilicate: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LFOI2VS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TYmdAb27389RQ tuyop posted:Is it sticking too hard? I think so, while my print was cooling, I could hear it cracking the glass bed. I feel like I'm right on the edge with build plate adhesion. I guess it's a risk of large surface area builds, but that's also kinda the reason I bought this printer.
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Nov 16, 2017 00:27
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NewFatMike posted:This is what I got most recently, appears to be borosilicate: Put a bit of PVA glue on the glass first. Just a glue stick. It reduces adhesion.
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Nov 16, 2017 00:35
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I've redesigned my extruder mount, so that I may now use my new 360 fan blower mount along with said extruder mount with BLTouch installed. To test, I printed flowalistik's low poly Yoshi at 25% size. Lego hot dog for scale. A good start, but overhang quality is poor. Anyone have experience using a .15mm nozzle? What speed do you print small models at? I did this at 20mm/s (1200mm/m). It took 1 hour, 11 minutes. The bottom layer is messy. That's where I cut off the brim. I used two layers, because I was previously having trouble, and thought maybe a single 80 micron brim layer might not cut it.
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Nov 16, 2017 00:51
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NewFatMike posted:The glass beds that I keep getting for my Monoprice Maker Ultimate keep breaking when I have a large surface area PETG print. Just part of the glass flakes off. Useful for arrowheads, not so much for my prints. The best tip I saw for it was to have an ending gcode that kept the bed heater warm until you removed the print and manually turned the bed off. 45-50C. The problem is that the PETG print holds heat longer than the glass, so when the glass cools it cracks against the still-hot PETG.
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Nov 16, 2017 03:58
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tuyop posted:Put a bit of PVA glue on the glass first. Just a glue stick. It reduces adhesion. I thought it improved adhesion, I had been using it on PLA, but I'll give it a shot on PETG. biracial bear for uncut posted:The best tip I saw for it was to have an ending gcode that kept the bed heater warm until you removed the print and manually turned the bed off. How be would I go about this with Cura?
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Nov 16, 2017 05:46
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NewFatMike posted:I thought it improved adhesion, I had been using it on PLA, but I'll give it a shot on PETG. It creates a layer that sticks to the bed and to the print...but it's much easier to break the bond between the glue layer and the bed than it is to break the bond between the PETG and the bed.
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Nov 16, 2017 09:35
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NewFatMike posted:I thought it improved adhesion, I had been using it on PLA, but I'll give it a shot on PETG. PETG adheres too well in most cases. I know it will literally fuse to a PEI sheet if you don't have something between them like PVA.
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Nov 16, 2017 09:35
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I've also chipped my glass by printing petg naked. Hairspray works well enough for petg to grip without delaminating the glass. I have to print on a raft on my PEI bed, though. Goddam petg is grippy stuff. I'll take it over the warpfest that is ABS, though.
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Nov 16, 2017 13:51
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Trying to catch up on the last two months of this thread so sorry if it's been posted but Aldi the discount supermarket is selling a 3D printer for £300. https://www.aldi.co.uk/3d-printer I know I've seen this printer before, trying to remember what brand it's a copy off. Aiming for a Prusa i3 soon due to the auto leveling but £300 is tempting.
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Nov 16, 2017 18:30
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Afterdark posted:Trying to catch up on the last two months of this thread so sorry if it's been posted but Aldi the discount supermarket is selling a 3D printer for £300. It’s a Wanhao i3 Plus. Same one sold under several brands including Monoprice. It’s a solid choice. Extremely popular with tons of community support, and about as cheap as you can go without being an immediate fire risk.
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Nov 16, 2017 18:34
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Ah cheers! You should see some of the articles the newspapers are putting out "it's £400 cheaper than its nearest rival!" Possibly because it's Black Friday and a 55" 4k TV is being sold next to it on the same day so there's a bit of press about it. I think every uk paper has at least a online article about it, even my crappy local has a piece on it. Although tempting but after dealing with a Delta that could not level correctly I think I might just save up the extra and get the i3.
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Nov 16, 2017 18:49
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The prusa mk2s kit is 470 GBP, feels like if you're going to spend 300 GBP on a printer you might as well spend the extra and get the real thing
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Nov 16, 2017 19:02
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mewse posted:The prusa mk2s kit is 470 GBP, feels like if you're going to spend 300 GBP on a printer you might as well spend the extra and get the real thing Yes, of course lets pay 50% more for a Prusa kit when the Aldi one takes 6 bolts to put together.
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Nov 16, 2017 20:10
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Foxtrot_13 posted:Yes, of course lets pay 50% more for a Prusa kit when the Aldi one takes 6 bolts to put together. I'm glad we agree
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Nov 16, 2017 20:16
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I'd rather buy the prusa and I once *gasp* asked about an Anet...
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Nov 16, 2017 20:27
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It all comes down to what you can afford. If you have the ability to buy a Prusa, then you should do it. If you can't, if you have to go budget, then Wanhao/Monoprice is a great way to go.
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Nov 16, 2017 20:44
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Foxtrot_13 posted:Yes, of course lets pay 50% more for a Prusa kit when the Aldi one takes 6 bolts to put together. I enjoy my house not on fire thank you.
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Nov 16, 2017 22:08
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I am continuing testing on colouring filament through adulterants. I lost the print half way through. Still cool though It appears any sort it colouring impacts the bed adhesion significantly, I feel a raft may be the way forward with this technique, though my bed is warped to hell at the moment. Cr-10- " It needs some fiddling" But it is rather striking and I want to get this working.
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Nov 16, 2017 22:19
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What kind of nozzle/hot-end are you using when doing that?
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Nov 16, 2017 22:41
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Zorro KingOfEngland posted:What kind of nozzle/hot-end are you using when doing that? A good knock off e3d V6 and a 0.8 nozzle. I've only had one clog and it was easily fixed with some tie wire. Edit: There is a little pigment left in the hotend but it clear completely after 10-20cm of filament runs through it. Jestery fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Nov 16, 2017 |
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Nov 16, 2017 22:57
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I'm far from a materials expert, but could it be possible that the pigment is affecting the thermal properties of the plastic, causing adhesion to be lost? Have you tried going slightly hotter (or cooler too, I guess) from your normal temp to see if that affects anything?
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Nov 16, 2017 23:23
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Zorro KingOfEngland posted:I'm far from a materials expert, but could it be possible that the pigment is affecting the thermal properties of the plastic, causing adhesion to be lost? Have you tried going slightly hotter (or cooler too, I guess) from your normal temp to see if that affects anything? That definitely seems the case. Some colours do seem to print "tighter" than others. And that metallic pen absorbs heat almost too well. I think multicoloured printing in this fashion is a big ask but possible. But for larger prints an automated system would have to be necessary and definitely beyond what I can do I'm working my way to a cartridge based colouring system
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Nov 16, 2017 23:33
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XYZprinting made a printer that does that, unfortunately it's XYZprinting.
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Nov 16, 2017 23:40
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BMan posted:XYZprinting made a printer that does that, unfortunately it's XYZprinting. That was kinda my inspiration, imagine an open source filament coloriser that is cartridge based. And uses ubiquitous fountain pen carts. Like ,some of the colouring I've been getting has been on par with coloured filaments I've seen. So for a few weeks work I never need to buy different filament again and a whole.new world of colour opens up to me.
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Nov 16, 2017 23:50
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ImplicitAssembler posted:It does both. Awesome! Luckily I have tons of glue sticks left to play with!
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Nov 16, 2017 23:58
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Does a layer have to have the same speed throughout the same layer? Is there a slicer that can slow down a part of a layer? The idea is that it would slow down during overhangs, but get back up to speed otherwise.
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Nov 17, 2017 04:06
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Revol posted:Does a layer have to have the same speed throughout the same layer? Is there a slicer that can slow down a part of a layer? The idea is that it would slow down during overhangs, but get back up to speed otherwise. Slic3r gives the option of setting a different speed for bridges, but I don't know if just an overhang will trigger that speed.
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Nov 17, 2017 05:24
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The closest thing I can think of is the speed setting for the exterior perimeter.
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Nov 17, 2017 05:49
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Pretty sure that falls under Bridging settings.
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Nov 17, 2017 13:58
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:I enjoy my house not on fire thank you. How much extra QA do you think Prusa/Lulzbot/Ultimaker do on their Chinese made power supplies than Aldi will do? We are not talking about a fly by night Chinese box stuffer trying to make a quick buck via AliExpress. Aldi is a multimillion euro international retailer and while their offer stuff is cheap it does pass the German safety regulations, regulations that are stricter than the USA ones.
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Nov 17, 2017 14:21
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Foxtrot_13 posted:How much extra QA do you think Prusa/Lulzbot/Ultimaker do on their Chinese made power supplies than Aldi will do? Correct, safety regulations in western countries are infallible and nothing unsafe gets sold ever.
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Nov 17, 2017 15:30
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Foxtrot_13 posted:How much extra QA do you think Prusa/Lulzbot/Ultimaker do on their Chinese made power supplies than Aldi will do? Pretty sure the guy you quoted was confusing Aldi with Anet. The Aldi printers are just rebadges of Wanhao machines, where the only flaw you have to worry about on those is the heated bed connection to the control board needing an external mosfet if it's a 12V printer system (the 24V printers are just fine).
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Nov 17, 2017 16:16
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Also the idea that a Monoprice or similar knockoff i3 only has "six bolts" to put together is kind of misdirecting - at least the Monoprice you're going to need to take the entire thing apart anyway to scrape hot glue off the terminals either when you buy it or six months later when it starts shorting out and half the board is charred because you didn't do it when you bought it.
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Nov 17, 2017 16:32
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food court bailiff posted:Also the idea that a Monoprice or similar knockoff i3 only has "six bolts" to put together is kind of misdirecting - at least the Monoprice you're going to need to take the entire thing apart anyway to scrape hot glue off the terminals either when you buy it or six months later when it starts shorting out and half the board is charred because you didn't do it when you bought it. The Monoprice I bought didn't have any hot glue on the connectors when I checked it. I did install the mosfet for the heated bed prior to printing anything that required a heated bed (anything not PLA).
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Nov 17, 2017 16:52
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When did you get yours? I got mine in November of last year and I know they've tweaked their designs quite a few times. To clarify, the glue wasn't on the power supply side, just on the connectors on the Melzi board itself. It basically gets warm enough to melt the hot glue around the power connection, which makes the glue run down into it and create more resistance, which creates more heat, which eventually just chars the glue and socket connector to an unholy mess that you need to cut off with a goddamn chisel before you can solder a new connection in not that I'm bitter or anything e: other than that it's a really great printer considering what I paid for it which makes that one weird and obvious flaw stand out so much more
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Nov 17, 2017 20:23
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food court bailiff posted:When did you get yours? I got mine in November of last year and I know they've tweaked their designs quite a few times. To clarify, the glue wasn't on the power supply side, just on the connectors on the Melzi board itself. It basically gets warm enough to melt the hot glue around the power connection, which makes the glue run down into it and create more resistance, which creates more heat, which eventually just chars the glue and socket connector to an unholy mess that you need to cut off with a goddamn chisel before you can solder a new connection in not that I'm bitter or anything I got mine October of 2016. I know what you meant about the glue on the control board (saw posts about it in other discussions about the printer before I got mine). I think it's more a wildly inconsistent manufacturing practice depending on which batch of rebranded printers you get yours out of.
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Nov 17, 2017 21:18
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So, I'm finding that getting dual extrusion working is more trouble than it's worth, for a few reasons: - poor slicer support for this style of hotend. S3D doesn't play nice with single-nozzle dual extruders, the Prusa version of Slic3r only works with the Prusa type of multi-extrusion, and I've never been happy with Cura. - it's a huge pain to set up right for every print, because trying to do it automatically is asking for a printer jam. Also, getting thermal runaway erros when printing with the "second" extruder. - dual extrusion in general is just gimmicky. Doing soluble support with the second extruder is a nice idea, but the S3D supports work almost as well. Luckily, it's pretty simple to swap back to a single nozzle with this setup. It was a neat experiment, but it's time to get it into a working state.
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Nov 17, 2017 22:36
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