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Geoj posted:Are you completely unable to shift into reverse or will it go into gear after the car sits still for a few seconds/when shifting into reverse from a full stop?  0toShifty posted:Doesn't the manual elantra have a reverse lockout thing - like a ring just below the shift knob that you have to lift to get it into reverse? Is it going up all the way? Perhaps just this part of the linkage is screwy spankmeister posted:Watch this to get an idea:
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Nov 17, 2017 06:29
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Recommendations for a battery to last 3-5 years at most? This thing is very old, but desperately needs a replacement for its almost 10 year old battery. The one with a 3-year guarantee or the one with a 5 year guarantee.
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Nov 17, 2017 09:54
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2001 Probably needs an alternator. I charged the battery, started it, volt meter across the terminals and it was slowly drawing down. Unplugged the two terminals and unbolted the cable off the back, connections look clean. Is there any way to further test the alternator? Can I put volt meter or test light on the cable terminal at the back, and measure output or anything? Or is this a case for gently caress it, new alternator? Battery is brand loving new. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Nov 17, 2017 |
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Nov 17, 2017 15:22
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wesleywillis posted:2001 What sort of voltage did you measure? Most batteries will sit between 12.3v and 12.7v. If you just charged it it'll be higher - this is called a surface charge. Turn the headlights on for a minute with the engine off to bleed it off and measure again. Most alternators will put out above 13.5v to 14.5v DC with the engine running. If it measures okay, turn on all the loads you can think of, heater, lights, etc. Make sure the voltage doesn't dip below 13. You can test the diodes easily with a voltmeter too. Put the meter in AC volts, put the + lead on the alternators big + terminal, and the black on ground. You should be measuring less than 0.5v, ideally less. Anything more means diode problems. 0toShifty fucked around with this message at 16:38 on Nov 17, 2017 |
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Nov 17, 2017 16:35
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spog posted:The one with a 3-year guarantee or the one with a 5 year guarantee. Fair enough. Second question: the guy at Autozone said sometimes people torque down the retaining bar on the battery too hard and it cracks the battery eventually. Is that true? Is there any risk to the battery if it isn’t torqued down hard enough? 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Nov 17, 2017 |
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Nov 17, 2017 17:20
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Fair enough. I worked at Sears for three years and never saw a failure like that. Just use common sense and don't use the shop gorilla "Tighten til it loosens then back off a quarter turn" method and you'll be fine.
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Nov 17, 2017 17:35
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Fair enough. Just snug it up. It's just to keep the battery from flying if you do something like this: https://i.imgur.com/y8YmwGb.mp4
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Nov 17, 2017 18:02
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0toShifty posted:What sort of voltage did you measure? 11 point something. The truck has been sitting for a few weeks, I've been keeping the battery topped up about once a week, including two days ago. so it wasn't right at 12 point whatever.
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Nov 17, 2017 18:35
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Another trick is to measure battery voltage while you're cranking the engine. Might need a friend, but most batteries should show 9-10v even while the starter is turning the engine over. A dead battery might show 12.5v with no load after a charge, but will only deliver 6 or so when you load it up. Sometimes less; I've seen one that would show 12.5v, but went to 4v when you actually loaded it up.
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Nov 17, 2017 18:52
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MrYenko posted:Another trick is to measure battery voltage while you're cranking the engine. Might need a friend, but most batteries should show 9-10v even while the starter is turning the engine over. A dead battery might show 12.5v with no load after a charge, but will only deliver 6 or so when you load it up. Sometimes less; I've seen one that would show 12.5v, but went to 4v when you actually loaded it up. This. If anything, cranking voltage is more important than resting voltage.
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Nov 17, 2017 19:41
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2002 Saturn SC2, ~50k miles. Last week I had water pump and thermostat replaced to fix a coolant leak. The water pump replacement also fixed a lot of rattling noise. Now there is one more noise I'm trying to figure out - this noise existed prior to the water pump replacement, but now I can hear it better. Sometimes I turn on the car and don't hear it until I accelerate. Sometimes I hear it right away when just idling, but it's always more pronounced when accelerating. I'm describing it as a "fluttering" "bird-like" high-pitch noise. Tried to record it here, is this enough to make any guesses? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uG0CXxNZ7ak
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Nov 17, 2017 21:08
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Enourmo posted:This. If anything, cranking voltage is more important than resting voltage. Resting voltage tells you basically how many cells you have charged up, not anything about the remaining surface area on those cells.
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Nov 17, 2017 21:10
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Hey guys, hoping I havn't made a dumb choice. I've just bought a '09 Ford Ranger 6cyl 2WD, it's everything I wanted so I can camp and tool around and have fun, but the ride is pretty stiff. I drive busted Silverados at work, so i'm used to driving trucks, but the ride in my Ranger is just... agh. I'm feeling every tiny bump. It's got nice fat tires already and it's not lifted. I'm willing to put some money into fixing this, and I dont mind lowering the truck a scootch for a better ride. What shocks do you recommend? Would air bags be a good investment?
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Nov 17, 2017 23:30
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Neither lowering nor adding airbags to the existing leaves are going to improve ride quality. I'd double check the tire pressure and probably put some new shocks on it.
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Nov 18, 2017 00:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:Neither lowering nor adding airbags to the existing leaves are going to improve ride quality. I'd double check the tire pressure and probably put some new shocks on it. Ok, awesome, good I asked because other sources on the internet were throwing those ideas around. Can you recommend a particular brand of shock? I dont know diddly with regards to that.
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Nov 18, 2017 00:10
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Monroes are really nice... For 500 miles. Don't be tempted by the price! I don't know what's better because I just ran the clapped out Monroes for the next five years 
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Nov 18, 2017 00:12
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I ran some cheap as gently caress Monroes on my Ranger and they seemed fine. Ride quality on it seemed exactly what it should be. It's never going to be compliant, but it wasn't absurdly rough either. Solidly in between my lowered C10 (the leaf-spring rear of which rides like rear end) and my WJ with the new springs (which is firm but much better at soaking up bumps than either of those trucks).
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Nov 18, 2017 00:27
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Are the springs looking badly rusted up or anything? Are there different load/duty options for the ranger, and you've got the heavier setup? Like 4 or 5 leaf springs when it should be 3? Cheap option is, of course, to just leave a couple of hundred pounds of stuff in the back.
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Nov 18, 2017 00:54
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InitialDave posted:Are the springs looking badly rusted up or anything? I was just looking at the leaf spring option actually. Once it's light out i'll crawl under there and see what the situation is. While i'm here, what's the economical choice for a fiberglass truck topper? I'd be modifying it for truck camping so I'll be cutting holes in it and probably painting it some garish color, so I'm not thinking I should go for a shiny new LEER or A.R.E. Does anyone sell new bare-bones shells, or should I just keep an eye on the used market?
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Nov 18, 2017 01:02
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Car: 2004 Hyundai Sonata - 120k miles - Excellent condition - Serviced regularly After I start my car, the engine rumbles and shakes very forcibly for about 10 seconds before calming down. But if I put it in drive/reverse before the rumbling ceases, it goes away. I've had it for 4 years and it's only been doing this regularly for the last month or so. I had all the motor mounts replaced three years ago.
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Nov 18, 2017 01:27
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Suspect Bucket posted:I was just looking at the leaf spring option actually. Once it's light out i'll crawl under there and see what the situation is. Unless you've got a stepside it should be reasonably easy to find a used topper, especially if you look at classifieds in the nearest rural areas.
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Nov 18, 2017 04:53
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Where would the MAP sensor be on a chevy 350? How would I identify it? Mine is throwing a map sensor code and has been showing all the signs of a bad one so it's time to change it.
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Nov 19, 2017 15:04
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What year, what vehicle is the 350 in?
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Nov 19, 2017 16:23
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Karma Comedian posted:Where would the MAP sensor be on a chevy 350? How would I identify it? Mine is throwing a map sensor code and has been showing all the signs of a bad one so it's time to change it. 
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Nov 19, 2017 16:30
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I was going to ask the same thing but a quick search makes it look like the MAP on most fuel injected 350s (TBI, TPI, and L31 Vortec) is stuck somewhere on the back of the intake manifold. Occasionally it might be remotely mounted on the firewall. The LT1 seems to be the only one with the sensor mounted towards the front of the intake.
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Nov 19, 2017 16:31
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rdb posted:What year, what vehicle is the 350 in? A 1997 Jeep Wrangler with an aftermarket FAST EFI system. So this guy? 
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Nov 19, 2017 16:41
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If' it's got aftermarket EFI, then look for something like this: It's pretty universal, and can be mounted in various places, so it might not be where it's supposed to be. I worked on a VW 16v that had one of these mounted up in the windshield cowl connected with a long vacuum line to the manifold.
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Nov 19, 2017 16:46
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I need to make two bends in a piece of 2" x 3/16" steel stock. Is
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Nov 19, 2017 16:57
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Boys who love boys
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Karma Comedian posted:A 1997 Jeep Wrangler with an aftermarket FAST EFI system. That looks more like a coolant temperature sensor. Everything goes out the window with aftermarket. If this is the same one as on your Jeep, looks like the MAP is internal to the throttle body: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXiX3EBT9dE&t=534s
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Nov 19, 2017 17:07
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0toShifty posted:If' it's got aftermarket EFI, then look for something like this: Mine looks like this one and it came from a Buick Roadmaster. monsterzero posted:I need to make two bends in a piece of 2" x 3/16" steel stock. Is I've just been clamping that size in a vice and using a 3lb hammer.
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Nov 19, 2017 18:31
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Start at the air filter and follow the tube to the intake manifold. There is ONE sensor somewhere along that path.
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Nov 19, 2017 19:11
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0toShifty posted:If' it's got aftermarket EFI, then look for something like this: Thanks for this. IOwnCalculus posted:That looks more like a coolant temperature sensor. Everything goes out the window with aftermarket. This video helped me make sense of the forums posts about it, thanks!
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Nov 19, 2017 21:06
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95 Jeep followup. I ended up ordering a small ball joint kit. I mean it came with only a few adapters. It said one was for a Jeep Dana 34. As near as I could tell the setup is the same for that and the 30. When it arrives hopefully it'll all come apart. It's not rusty or anything so it should be all good. Is it possible to remove the top ball joint without damaging it? It's in perfect condition so I want to save it as a spare.
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Nov 20, 2017 04:28
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General_Failure posted:95 Jeep followup. You should be able to press it out without hurting it, just make sure the adapters are pressing against the nice solid parts.
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Nov 20, 2017 05:06
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I've got a 2011 Chevrolet Equinox LT with 18" wheels. I'm looking to get new tires, but I don't have any clue what I should or shouldn't be looking for and everything always says it's the best. I have little knowledge of cars and their maintenance but follow standard service protocols with the dealer. I don't live where there's snow or ice any significant (at all?) time of the year, but I do go camping where it does snow. Occasionally we'll be camping when there's at most a foot or so on the ground, but I'm not driving over it, just on the cleared roads and other roads related to state park camping sites. Probably driving about 10,000 miles a year, primarily city roads and highway. I would like the tires to be okay with the occasional gravel road journey. I have no idea if any of this is relevant.
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Nov 20, 2017 23:03
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HelloSailorSign posted:I've got a 2011 Chevrolet Equinox LT with 18" wheels. How old are the tires you've got? If you didn't have any problems, you could just get the same ones. Take a look at Tire rack, discount tire etc. and read reviews. Even if you don't buy tires from there, the reviews are valuable. Check your tire size, it should be on a sticker inside the driver's door jamb. It'll have a number like P 205 75 R18 or similar. That same number should be on thje sidewall of your tire as well. Don't get too concerned if the number isn't EXACTLY the same. The first number could be 215 or maybe 195 on your actual tire. A minor variance in width isn't a huge concern. Check out tires in that size on tire rack/discount tire for review. I'm a snow tire nazi myself, but if you only camp in snow for a few days or whatever, and the rest of the time you're in mild climes, all seasons should be fine.
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Nov 20, 2017 23:39
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Awesome, thanks! I’ve got some kind of Michelen tires. They’ve done well.
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Nov 21, 2017 00:13
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Dielectric / silicon grease doesn't seem to exist in this universe. Never found any. Tried again today. Was looking for some for the NSS on the XJ Cherokee auto transmission. I pulled it and am cleaning it to fix inoperative reverse lights and occasional no crank situation. Definitely the cause. The sprung contacts were all gummed up and one couldn't even extend. So far the only things that have come to mind are: *Silicon lubricant spray. This is thin of course. * Hydr-o-seal tap lubricant (Even the MSDS is vague on what it is). Boil temperature, lubrication, and compatible materials seem okay but I don't know about electrical conductivity. Last thing I want. * PC heatsink stuff. Probably silicon grease. I have a big syringe of it. No idea of it's lubricant qualities. Should I go for one of these ro something else again?
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Nov 21, 2017 04:48
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General_Failure posted:Dielectric / silicon grease doesn't seem to exist in this universe. Never found any. Tried again today. Was looking for some for the NSS on the XJ Cherokee auto transmission. I pulled it and am cleaning it to fix inoperative reverse lights and occasional no crank situation. Definitely the cause. The sprung contacts were all gummed up and one couldn't even extend. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2
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Nov 21, 2017 05:00
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Well, now I have a product number at least. Out of the ones listed on Amazon I found one that ships to Austraia, but I kind of need it in the next few days instead of a month from now. Thanks anyway. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-6PK-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B01JE904F8
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Nov 21, 2017 05:08
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