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That makes sense I guess. Either way, theyre a lot easier than shim and bucket valves. As for the end result, no noticeable difference in performance, but its a bear to kickstart now.
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Nov 12, 2017 16:23
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It finally stopped raining these past two days so I was able to bolt some stuff on. Givi engine guards and skid plate, barkbusters, rear and side racks, and a center stand. I just need some new tires because these stock dunlops blow in anything other than gravel. Also the bike is surprisingly easy to pick up on its side  .
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Nov 12, 2017 18:46
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Finallay got my dim headlight sorted. The starter switch is a "clever" design that disconnects the headlight circuit when starting the motor. 100% of the headlight current runs through this small switch 100% of the time (unless the starter is turning). The contacts were dulled, so I burnished them. Better, but not great. I then went through the wiring one wire at a time, starting from the lamp and working backwards. I hooked my 12V 4A power supply directly to ground and to the suspected wire. At the lamp: bright. At the lamp disconnect: bright. At the hi/lo switch: bright. At the reserve lighting unit (don't even get me started): bright. At the fuse: bright. At the starter switch: bright. At the input to the starter switch: waitaminit, why are there two black wires here? There should be a black and a black/brown! Apparently the brown tape denoting the black/brown wire fell off, and I hooked these up wrong last time. The black/brown runs from the engine stop switch through a diode to the starter. With the two wires swapped, 100% of the headlight current was running through this 1976 diode, with the headlight acting as a current-limiting resistor for the thing. It explains why "hi" and "lo" were the same brightness, I guess. So now the headlight is as bright as a sealed-beam incandescent with a 1982 manufacture date gets. I also deleted the reserve lighting unit and associated resistor assembly. $50 on ebay, here I come.
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Nov 12, 2017 20:26
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FAT CURES MUSCLES posted:It finally stopped raining these past two days so I was able to bolt some stuff on. Givi engine guards and skid plate, barkbusters, rear and side racks, and a center stand. my dad used motoz tractionators for his TAT trip, liked them well enough
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Nov 12, 2017 21:11
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FAT CURES MUSCLES posted:It finally stopped raining these past two days so I was able to bolt some stuff on. Givi engine guards and skid plate, barkbusters, rear and side racks, and a center stand. Sup AT buddy. My spouse has one too. He just bought some E07 (non Dakars) for his. (I'm running the dakar version) I have no interest in one, but the DCT is decent in sport mode My 950 shredded a tractionator desert in about 3kmi. Not today, but Friday I spent 4-5 hours spooning said E07s on. gently caress you PO for not lubing the rear axle, and overtorquing it till it cracked the slider block.  PO's Home depot bolts vs 316 stainless. They're for the crashbars on this bike which I hate so much. Where they go:  AT got cases and centerstand. Now we can haul our machineshop on our bikes   
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Nov 12, 2017 23:36
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Took it to a new place for winter storage, since my usual place isn't doing it this year apparently. Time to clean and treat all my gear and put stuff away at home.
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Nov 13, 2017 22:44
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Every race or 2:    Looks like I need some new sprockets too..
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Nov 16, 2017 01:31
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I powder coated parts! Took the radiator guards, swingarm endcaps and rear pillion pegs off and sand blasted them The finished product looks pretty ok to me. All wrinkle coat  [timg]https://i.imgur.com/HZxV3nB.jpg[/url][/timg]  Better than rattlecan IMO Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Nov 17, 2017 |
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Nov 17, 2017 07:22
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are the grip characteristics changed at all for the pegs?
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Nov 17, 2017 17:21
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Not sure, I haven’t reinstalled them (or ridden on the back of my own bike). Based on the fact that I did my bar protectors in the same wrinkle coat, I’d say that they will be slightly more grippy due to the extra texture, but only a bit. It’s not like grip tape or anything like that. This is 100% ~AESTHETICS~ driven, honestly. I’ll do the fronts too eventually, but they have rubber grips that screw onto them.
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Nov 17, 2017 18:16
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I think it looks pretty rad. Are you doing the baking in something in your garage? I rolled over 10k on the DRZ today  Thanks to the 2 P.O., the bike has averaged less than 1000 miles a year.
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Nov 20, 2017 02:25
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Yeah I have a toaster oven I use. You can see my whole process here: https://youtu.be/wd5cKyJuoHw
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Nov 20, 2017 03:35
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Wee: Up on centerstand, filled tank with ethanol-free and stabil, ran for five minutes, yanked the battery. Rex: Yanked the battery. (Same one as the Wee, which is neat.) Yanked the K&N filter, cleaned it, put it downstairs to dry. Stuffed the hole with rags. Pulled off the tank. Had to cut the fuel line to get it off the petcock. Will replace later.Opened the carb drains, didn't close them up again cause it got too dark. Will close later this week. The portmost drain screw is a right bastard to get an allen key onto. Noted a little more damage courtesy of Sleepy Magoo the DL650, namely it bent one of the kickass golden ZRX badges. Noted some grime and oil stain at the valve cover gasket, hope to gently caress it's just a slightly lovely seal there. Covers back on both, Rex tank is outside for right now until I can shnab a spare gas can or something to drain the leftover gas into. Rex will need new brake lines next year, vibration and frame contact have eaten through the outer rubber cover on the front lines close to where they leave the banjo bolt.
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Nov 20, 2017 21:39
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Changed the oil. Went with 10w40 instead of 20w50 because it's supposed to be in the 20s-50s for the next four months. Chased down (?) another corroded connection in the ignition system. It is now Officially Time to get some modern ignition for this thing. How do I go about selecting a replacement coil and plug solution? Can I just pull out some other bike's wasted spark electronic ignition and use the Dyna-S to fire it?
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Nov 21, 2017 02:23
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 Welp there go my hopes of an easy fix on the tractor. That key is perfectly in place which either means the throttle linkages were hosed and I hopefully fixed them, or a pushrod is slightly bent.
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Nov 21, 2017 04:27
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:
You were posting about this in the AI thread, not CA.
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Nov 21, 2017 15:30
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I was wondering what was going on. I was like, "throttle linkages?? What is that in the image? That must be one heavy duty throttle tube. Woodruff key??"
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Nov 21, 2017 16:50
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When he said tractor I assumed he bought a klr 
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Nov 21, 2017 17:58
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Dagen H posted:You were posting about this in the AI thread, not CA. lol whoops! Well for content - I shuffled a couple bikes around the garage and moved about 40 bi-fold bins of CB, Goldwing, and VFR parts to be able to work on that tractor... so there's that.
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Nov 21, 2017 17:58
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Dagen H posted:You were posting about this in the AI thread, not CA. Still better than a GROM
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Nov 21, 2017 20:30
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pretty wennie stuff, but I'm pretty proud of myself right now - my EX250 was running lovely and thought it was the carb and have managed to successfully remove, clean, and replace it without seeming to have caused permanent damage to my motorcycle. Now I have (somewhat) of an idea of how a carb works, and am going to invest heavily in fuel stabilizer in the future
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Nov 25, 2017 19:27
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Laminator posted:pretty wennie stuff, but I'm pretty proud of myself right now - my EX250 was running lovely and thought it was the carb and have managed to successfully remove, clean, and replace it without seeming to have caused permanent damage to my motorcycle. Now I have (somewhat) of an idea of how a carb works, and am going to invest heavily in fuel stabilizer in the future Carb work is so satisfying when done right. Doesn't the EX250 have two though?
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Nov 25, 2017 20:06
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Carb work is so satisfying when done right. Doesn't the EX250 have two though? It does. They're not too easy to pull, either. Congrats, Laminator.
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Nov 26, 2017 17:50
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 I finally had time to change the tube on the the rear tire. I also discovered the magic of heating the tire you're spooning on/off in a tub of warm water. It was so much easier to work with. I had to raise the front fender to have more room for the slightly bigger front tire, 120/80 vs stock 90/100, to get M+S rating and studded.  It stands a little bit taller in the rear with a 17 inch wheel compared to the stock 16 inch. Swapped rear sprockets from 41 to 49 teeth and added some links to make the chain fit. That gearing commander site wasn't correct about the number of rollers I needed to add, it suggested 4, I actually needed 8. Which is why I added 12 to be sure and then shortened it. Gonna try 1.25 bar instead of stock 1.5 for tire pressures.
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Nov 26, 2017 19:19
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Got it started https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u43En4N8O3I Now to clean the carbon out of it 
Fievel Goes Bi fucked around with this message at 08:57 on Nov 27, 2017 |
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Nov 27, 2017 08:53
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Two stroke? Either throw it on top of a wood fire or start some flames inside with a propane torch then push oxygen through it until it stops breathing fire. You should also probably run an old chain through it a couple times to break up the majority of it. I've never seen a pipe that coked up, drat.
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Nov 27, 2017 09:33
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What causes that - too much oil in the premix, not hitting WOT enough?
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Nov 27, 2017 17:24
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Jazzzzz posted:What causes that - too much oil in the premix, not hitting WOT enough? Too rich, which can ironically be caused by not enough oil.
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Nov 27, 2017 17:34
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That looks like a loving diesel holy poo poo.
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Nov 27, 2017 19:02
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Yeah I just decided to just get a new manifold and muffler. It’s cheap and the Solex manual even lists the muffler as a wear item because it gets coked up. Also got the stuff for a top end rebuild it runs but compression is a little low.
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Nov 27, 2017 23:24
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I powder coated it! Got the front and passenger rearsets done, put new rod-ends on the shift rod as well, as the old ones were getting sloppy.  
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Dec 2, 2017 18:41
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Did a mid-interval oil change and rear diff oil change, put on a new center tank panel, fitted a different set of crash bars. Holy poo poo, I forgot how bad gear oil stinks. Tomorrow I get to make a wiring harness for some aux lights, hook them into a Canbus switch, get everything wired up and tucked away, and then put the bike under a dust cover for the winter because it looks like we're going to get enough slush/snow this week that the roads will get salted.
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Dec 4, 2017 02:32
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I got 80k mile old gear oil in my mouth while changing the fluid on my 350Z, and it strangely wasn't as traumatizing as I thought it would be. Smelled loving horrible though. Dumb question, but why would any non-trike have a rear diff?
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Dec 4, 2017 18:43
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Shaft drive. It's not really a diff but close enough.
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Dec 4, 2017 19:00
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 Installed a knock-off HD fairing. Cost me around $160 as opposed to the $600 or so it would have ran me if I bought the official one.
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Dec 6, 2017 00:44
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Fuckin' Guzzi story. I was having a little oil leak from under the stator cover, which is the front of the bike on a V7. I guess it's common for the bolts on that thing to loosen up over time. No big deal... I got out a little 6" driver and allen sockets to tighten all those bolts down & managed to strip one and snap another. I was really not putting that much pressure on those things. Drilled out the snapped one pretty easily as just the head broke off and it was flush with the cover. The stripped one was still under pressure and I broke my bolt extractor trying to drill & remove it the same way. I ended up taking a chisel & making a gouge in the head & then pounded on it until it broke loose. I'd already purchased the replacement bolt, but I had installed the new one on the other side of the cover so what I had in my hand was an original bolt. I took that original bolt and put it in there & was tightening it down (again, 6" driver that I'm not putting a ton of pressure on) and right as I start thinking that it's weird that this bolt is still turning pretty easily... it snaps. This time about a third of the way down and with a somewhat uneven surface so getting this one out is going to be a pain in the rear end. gently caress.
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Dec 6, 2017 18:23
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Put some Skene P3 brake lights on the STriple. After riding some in the rain, I realized that 90% of the road grime sticks directly to the stock rear light, so I wanted some auxiliaries. They look dorky, but they're bright.Jim Silly-Balls posted:I powder coated it! Got the front and passenger rearsets done, put new rod-ends on the shift rod as well, as the old ones were getting sloppy. The heel guard/passenger pegs look so much better in black. Nice work.
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Dec 9, 2017 03:42
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Slavvy posted:Shaft drive. I thought shaft bevels had grease rather than oil?
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Dec 9, 2017 15:12
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Only on terrible European bikes afaik.
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Dec 9, 2017 19:42
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This is a terrible European bike (R1200GSw). 75w90 gear oil in the final drive. If I was smart I would've dropped the final drive and lubed the shaft splines with moly while I had the oil drained, but it was cold and I am not smart, so it's going to wait until spring when I have to take the wheel off to get new tires. It only takes 180mL of oil so I have plenty left and draining/refilling takes maybe 10 minutes including fumbling around trying to find the right bits (Torx for the drain plug, hex for the fill plug, because Teutonic engineering über alles) Jazzzzz fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Dec 9, 2017 |
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Dec 9, 2017 20:30
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