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you're like a broken clock of head up the rear end opinions
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Nov 20, 2017 21:01
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| # ? May 17, 2024 07:05 |
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:you're like a broken clock of head up the rear end opinions It's like those comedians who insist all guys are like [my specific situation]. If a guy tells you he's not, he's lying! HAHA. All relationships are horrible! Whoever claims they're not is deluding either us or themselves!
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Nov 20, 2017 21:06
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"I mean, were all thinking it, I'm just saying it out loud, right guys?!" *cue applause*
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Nov 20, 2017 21:35
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:you're like a broken clock of head up the rear end opinions I like this post
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Nov 20, 2017 21:37
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I never said any of that stuff but ok.
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Nov 21, 2017 00:12
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Slavvy posted:I never said any of that stuff but ok. Don't they have analogies in South Pacific Correctional?
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Nov 21, 2017 18:33
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You couldn't be hosed understanding what I'm saying so why should I bother?
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Nov 21, 2017 18:55
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I understood your post and thought it was both insightful and true in a lot of cases.
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Nov 21, 2017 20:01
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please do not argue in the newbie thread, this is a safe space
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Nov 21, 2017 20:59
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Sagebrush posted:please do not argue in the newbie thread, this is a safe space Shut up mom!
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Nov 21, 2017 21:45
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I'm starting to see why there are a lot of shitbikes on craigslist right at big maintenance intervals. I'm 8 months and nearly 10k miles into my ex-500, and now it needs a new rear rotor (warped over time, now pulses when braking), definitely needs a brake bleed, probably a new chain (original chain from 10 years ago, I clean it a lot but it's getting to the end of it's stretchability), new sprocket, a valve check and maybe adjustment, air filter, and the freeplay in the clutch lever is still annoying. I bought as a noob, and now that I know what I'm looking at after doing my own maintenance all this time and reading ex-500.com's wiki like a bible, I know it wasn't very well cared for. I still haven't resprung it/swapped the rear shock because I haven't had time... and yet.... Dealer near me has a ton of sales on the bikes I wanted all along, most of them brand new, both the fast ones I shouldn't buy, and the more beginner-y ones I think are purdy. '17 Ninja 650's, FZ07, and to a lesser extent the CBR650F. And I got a promotion 3 months ago, making better money, could easily work this in, AND the newbike financing is 0% forever and ever more or less... Maaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaan.
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Nov 22, 2017 18:07
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spouse posted:I'm starting to see why there are a lot of shitbikes on craigslist right at big maintenance intervals. I'm 8 months and nearly 10k miles into my ex-500, and now it needs a new rear rotor (warped over time, now pulses when braking), definitely needs a brake bleed, probably a new chain (original chain from 10 years ago, I clean it a lot but it's getting to the end of it's stretchability), new sprocket, a valve check and maybe adjustment, air filter, and the freeplay in the clutch lever is still annoying. I bought as a noob, and now that I know what I'm looking at after doing my own maintenance all this time and reading ex-500.com's wiki like a bible, I know it wasn't very well cared for. This is how I have 3 bikes. Possibly 4 by the end of today.
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Nov 22, 2017 18:26
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Do all of these in one shot, because you'll save a bunch of time disassembling the rear end: bleed brakes and install speed bleeders (massively improves the experience) rear brake rotor (and pads) new sprockets (do both if you're replacing one) new chain (get a chain tool or find a friend with one) Should take about one solid afternoon. Valves are another good afternoon project if you're getting started. Most of the time is spent disassembling the bike to get to the head. The actual process is not that complicated. Air filter is a twenty-minute job, if that. Adjusting the clutch slack takes like thirty seconds.
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Nov 22, 2017 18:33
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Sagebrush posted:Do all of these in one shot, because you'll save a bunch of time disassembling the rear end: Yeah, that's what I'll do. I'm frugal to a fault, but purdy newbike is tempting regardless. I'd keep the 500 anyway, I love this thing just because it's my first bike, and it's brought me such joy thusfar. Related question: Is this an ok kit or should I be spending more? I see chain and sprocket prices all over the place, I'm assuming the $20 chains are a bad idea, but I also see chains that cost as much as this full kit, and those in between. Same question regarding rotors: What's the advantage of a $120 EBC rotor vs a $50 Volar? The clutch is more frustrating. I've got the actual pull and placement of the friction zone where I want it, it's just that there's so much looseness in the clutch lever itself, even after tightening bolts to limit vertical wiggle. I may just buy some chinesium shorty levers and see if that feels any better than the stock ones (I want to be able to do 2/3 fingers on clutch and brake instead of 4 fingers anyway).
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Nov 22, 2017 18:57
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That chain kit is fine. For your rear disc, which does sweet gently caress all work, I'd get the cheapest one that fits. To set your cable play properly, loosen it off completely at the lever, then set them adjustment at the perch to have a little bit of slack, then at the lever. The knurled knob at the lever is just for fine tuning the slop, the main adjustment is down on the case.
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Nov 22, 2017 19:02
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That kit looks fine. As long as it's not bargain-basement price and it comes with steel sprockets (not aluminum) and a rivet-style master link (not a clip) it'll work well for the sort of power levels and performance you get on an EX500. If you're racing then yeah, sure, get the $200 chain and forged sprockets and whatnot. I tend to buy brand-name stuff rather than chinese mystery for the brakes just because I'm squeamish about cheaping out on brakes (or tires) in any way. EBC is good. Maybe the other brands are fine too, I dunno -- I decided that that's one area I wouldn't try to save every dollar. e: slavvy is correct that your rear brake is not as critical as your front one but eh, still, I say don't get cheap on brakes. The clutch lever needs to have some slack at the start of its travel so that it doesn't start to disengage when you turn the bars and the cable tightens up. You can dial it down until that point, but don't go further. If the lever is wobbling up-and-down, though, that's probably just that the mounting point is worn. Cut a couple of plastic washers out of the bottom of a yogurt tub or similar thin, flat, slippery plastic and add them to the mounting bolt stack. One or two should be plenty. If you're a big spender you can buy nylon or fiber washers that are made for that purpose but I've had some plastic shims made out of a sushi container stuck in my bike's controls for years now with no issues, so
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Nov 22, 2017 19:10
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Yeah that's a good point I forgot to mention, you absolutely need some wobbly slack at the end of the travel or your poo poo will slip. People use clip master links all the time and no disasters happen, it's not exactly a powerful bike. I'm basing my judgment pretty much exclusively on DID stuff though.
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Nov 22, 2017 19:24
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My mechanic called DID the least expensive of the good chains, so that's what I go with. Glad to hear you like them. Regarding rotors, I usually change them every other time I change the pads? So while it may be costly you shouldn't have to do it all that often. Regardless Spouse, you're doing the right thing with this maintenance, so don't get discouraged.
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Nov 22, 2017 20:09
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DID chains like what you'd buy for a 600SS are what they use in motogp so I dunno about cheap. Good value more like.
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Nov 22, 2017 20:56
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Jack B Nimble posted:Regardless Spouse, you're doing the right thing with this maintenance, so don't get discouraged. Thanks!  I'm not discouraged, just figuring it all out. I've just been riding the piss out of the thing, and all of a sudden, i'm at 15k miles and it's time for the big service.Sagebrush posted:If the lever is wobbling up-and-down, though, that's probably just that the mounting point is worn. Cut a couple of plastic washers out of the bottom of a yogurt tub or similar thin, flat, slippery plastic and add them to the mounting bolt stack. This is the issue, it just feels generally loose vertically. I'll give it a try. spouse fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Nov 23, 2017 |
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Nov 23, 2017 03:44
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spouse posted:This is the issue, it just feels generally loose vertically. I'll give it a try. With my first bike I noticed this same thing and thought it must be because the bike was old, but this is pretty much par for the course.
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Nov 23, 2017 10:46
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Hey everyone, quick question...I am a cruiser rider and looking for a decent pair of boots; any opinions on the AlpineStars Ridge-2 Air? I assume it's not as warm as their goretex ones in cold weather (and likely given price isn't as fancy either) but appears to be a good boot at a decent price... any thoughts? Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving!
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Nov 23, 2017 18:01
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Chinese stuff bought on ebay will not be as good a fit as OEM parts. I have found this true for levers. If you bought the bike used, and there's a chance that the levers have been replaced at some point, and if you wanna spend, like, $15, then you could probably get a better-fitting lever at the dealer.
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Nov 24, 2017 02:52
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Slippery posted:Hey everyone, quick question...I am a cruiser rider and looking for a decent pair of boots; any opinions on the AlpineStars Ridge-2 Air? I assume it's not as warm as their goretex ones in cold weather (and likely given price isn't as fancy either) but appears to be a good boot at a decent price... any thoughts? Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving! I think I had the waterproof version of those and while they seemed decent they did not inspire much confidence in regards to protection. They are just held in place with like 2 Velcro straps. I ended up getting the alpinestars smx5s to replace them.
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Nov 24, 2017 03:39
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What usually happens, especially on learner bikes, is the lever isn't the problem but rather the perch is all splayed out and worn from being dropped and having the lever...lever at the sides. Cheap to replace a perch if you have a cable clutch, agonizingly terrible if you have a hydraulic.
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Nov 24, 2017 03:45
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what is a good unbreakable newbie bike? i had a ninja 250 that was totalled when i fell down at a stop sign (the worst possible outcome, i didn't even get a good story out of it) and i'd love to not have to buy another bike when i gently caress up again.
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Nov 26, 2017 03:16
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busa fake edit: any newer 300 is fine, i dont understand how you total a bike dropping it but maybe dont do whatever you did last time
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Nov 26, 2017 03:18
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WR250r/x or a DRZ. Unbreakable and you get a cooler bike.
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Nov 26, 2017 03:40
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Yeah we're gonna need to hear a little more about how you totalled a bike dropping it at a stop sign. Do you mean like, insurance-totalled because you cracked all the fairings, or totalled-totalled because the stop sign was on the edge of a cliff and the bike rolled off the edge of the road into the ocean? And yes a dual-sport like the DRZ or WR is the correct move if you want something you can drop without busting it up.
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Nov 26, 2017 03:44
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My first bike was a European 650 dual sport.  I eventually moved on to more fun things and a bit more sense (still have a euro naked though)Doing it all over again I’d pickup a small dual sport, Wr250 r or x or a DRZ. Ninja/Honda/Yamaha 250/300 standard/sport/nakeds are also a great choice. Get any of these, drop them, love them, then buy a dream bike. I just got a WR250R and I’m enjoying it as much or more than my bike that cost 3-4 times as much.
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Nov 26, 2017 04:18
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it was insurance totalled but it wouldn't turn on and there was something wrong with the shifter/maybe transmission so it may have been properly broken. i was in the hospital for unrelated stuff at the time and got a check for more than i paid for the bike so i didn't ask too many questions.
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Nov 26, 2017 04:24
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And here I was thinking you let it fall over onto a landmine. EX250 are pretty durable but I wouldn't have asked questions either. Nthing the recommendations for the WRx/r or the DRZ. Perhaps even a DR650. Dualsports and supermotos own, are the best bieks, and are also extremely indestructable by design.
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Nov 26, 2017 05:37
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Coydog posted:And here I was thinking you let it fall over onto a landmine. EX250 are pretty durable but I wouldn't have asked questions either. What he said. Unless you have some compelling reasons for needing long distance highway capability, small dualsports are simply the best learning bikes there are. They're very rugged, simple, incredibly forgiving and easy to ride whilst also giving you a very good understanding of bike dynamics that bikes with 'good' suspension and tyres often put out of reach of learners.
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Nov 26, 2017 06:54
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hit the bricks pal! posted:I think I had the waterproof version of those and while they seemed decent they did not inspire much confidence in regards to protection. They are just held in place with like 2 Velcro straps. I ended up getting the alpinestars smx5s to replace them. Really sorry for the delayed response but thanks very much for the insight! I will look into getting a pair of the smx5s. I gotta admit the big white logo turns me off a bit, not that I'm Cayce Pollard but I was hoping for just a black pair with maybe a subdued logo. Nice to know they're likely better boots though.
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Dec 18, 2017 01:48
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Slippery posted:Really sorry for the delayed response but thanks very much for the insight! I will look into getting a pair of the smx5s. I gotta admit the big white logo turns me off a bit, not that I'm Cayce Pollard but I was hoping for just a black pair with maybe a subdued logo. Nice to know they're likely better boots though. Good reference. Sadly, moto gear is the opposite and you just have to embrace it so hard that attain nirvana and realize MX gear is the one true style. 
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Dec 18, 2017 02:57
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Out of curiosity, is there any subdued mx/dirt gear out there at all? Seems like the massive splashy logos have been standard since mx became a thing.
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Dec 18, 2017 03:04
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Out of curiosity, is there any subdued mx/dirt gear out there at all? Seems like the massive splashy logos have been standard since mx became a thing. Klim stuff can be pretty toned down. Ex. https://www.atomic-moto.com/collections/jerseys I have a black and white fox jersey that says fox down one sleeve but it’s so stylized it’s tough to read.
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Dec 18, 2017 03:13
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Slippery posted:Really sorry for the delayed response but thanks very much for the insight! I will look into getting a pair of the smx5s. I gotta admit the big white logo turns me off a bit, not that I'm Cayce Pollard but I was hoping for just a black pair with maybe a subdued logo. Nice to know they're likely better boots though. Just take a sharpie to the logo.
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Dec 18, 2017 13:33
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Keket posted:Just take a sharpie to the logo. I was going to say exactly this. Then again: these are the boots that I want. 
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Dec 18, 2017 19:20
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Those boots radiate maximum freedom. Need to look up USSR-era Russian MX boots now to heal my soul from the burn.
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Dec 19, 2017 15:41
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