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Pretty good deal at home depot on the ryobi brushless drill kit and a free tool. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Featured-Products-Gift-Center-Tiered-Tool-Offer-Tiered-Tool-Ryobi-Free-Tool/N-5yc1vZcik4 The only hard part is choosing which tool I want to get.
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# ? Nov 10, 2017 20:58 |
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# ? Jun 4, 2024 20:16 |
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Bad Munki posted:Any recommendations on sprayers for putting down stains, dyes, oils & urethane, and paint? I need to do some large format work, like door size or even larger, which is going to involve both water-based dye and then an oil & urethane top coat. And then later, I need to paint some actual doors, and MUCH later, probably going to be painting about a mile of trim. Looking for a good sprayer for the job. You can get by the small stuff with an air-assisted cup gun or hvlp, but knowing you're going to do a big project, I'd recommend an airless. I've got a Graco Magnum ProX9, which will do a mile of trim without having to reload every 10 minutes. Also, it's kind of hard to push paint through a cup gun or hvlp, in my experience.The Amazon price is about twice what I paid for a refurb off eBay, or you might get lucky with an airless off CL if you know what you're looking for. Painters are a funny lot.
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# ? Nov 10, 2017 21:48 |
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Okay, so this is how I'm currently attaching an adapter to my router table so I can get some decent dust collection going: Obviously this is stupid. And it doesn't even work very well, because the dust collection port has a tiny surface area for the tape to adhere to, while the 4" dust collection hose puts a ton of leverage on the whole thing, so eventually it just sort of peels off. The problem is that the small end of the adapter is the same diameter as the port on the dust collector. I searched all over Home Depot for a bit of pipe or something that could fit as a coupler, and no dice. I must be missing something obvious, but short of sticking another length of hose on there, I'm not sure how I can get the adapter securely connected to the port.
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# ? Nov 11, 2017 23:00 |
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What size is the small side?
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# ? Nov 11, 2017 23:04 |
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Send me a decent drawing with dimensions, and I'll print one in ABS. SERIOUSLY. Username at Gmail or a PM.
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# ? Nov 11, 2017 23:29 |
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I knew I forgot something. It's 2.25" inner diameter. The outer diameters are about 2.4" for the adapter and just under 2.5" for the port.sharkytm posted:Send me a decent drawing with dimensions, and I'll print one in ABS. SERIOUSLY. Username at Gmail or a PM. Thanks for the offer, I may well take you up on it. But I find it kind of inconceivable that there isn't an existing product to do this.
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# ? Nov 11, 2017 23:31 |
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What’s better for splitting medium-sized logs for firewood, an axe or a maul? Currently considering these two: Fiskars Iso Core 8 lb Maul, 36 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014M9LQGG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_163bAb8FC8YHX Fiskars X27 Super Splitting Axe, 36-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004M3BAQE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_q73bAbVJES64W Having a fire pit installed in the coming year and I expect to be going through a fair amount.
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# ? Nov 11, 2017 23:51 |
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Re: dust collector You can't just use this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006TWQDG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_o.3bAb8A8RXAM As far as splitting wood, it depends. If it's small pieces, the splitting axe. If you're going to be hitting some larger hardwoods, the maul works better. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Nov 11, 2017 |
# ? Nov 11, 2017 23:56 |
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The Midniter posted:What’s better for splitting medium-sized logs for firewood, an axe or a maul? Currently considering these two: The super splitting axe is awesome. It's far lighter than a maul, and does a great job with splitting. If you need the weight to use a splitting wedge, get a sledgehammer. I've got an 8# maul and the SSA, and the maul gets used like three times a year. TooMuchAbstraction posted:I knew I forgot something. It's 2.25" inner diameter. The outer diameters are about 2.4" for the adapter and just under 2.5" for the port. No problem. Drop me a line if you want one printed.
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# ? Nov 11, 2017 23:58 |
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Bad Munki posted:Any recommendations on sprayers for putting down stains, dyes, oils & urethane, and paint? I need to do some large format work, like door size or even larger, which is going to involve both water-based dye and then an oil & urethane top coat. And then later, I need to paint some actual doors, and MUCH later, probably going to be painting about a mile of trim. Looking for a good sprayer for the job. I don't know about oil based paints, but for latex paints, the harbor freight "klaus and becker" airless sprayer is absolutely tits. I've used mine on four occasions to primer and paint my detached garage, side of my house I replaced some windows on, and front porch, as well as lent it out to my brother to do his shed, and it's been absolutely awesome every time. I know it violates the prime directive of harbor freight, don't buy anything with a plug, but it's seriously saved my butt on more than one occasion and I can't find a single thing I don't like about it. Seriously. I spent an entire day hand painting one side of my garage, and it only took a couple of hours to primer and and paint the entire thing with the airless sprayer I wouldn't buy any paint sprayers off Craigslist by the way. If you don't thoroughly clean it after every single use, without exception, they're toast, and there's no way to test that on a Craigslist buy.
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# ? Nov 12, 2017 00:00 |
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EvilBeard posted:Re: dust collector Hm, that might work. The big question is how thick the walls are; there's very little space between the outside wall of the port and the back of the router table's fence. But that's a much better bet than anything else commercial I've seen so far. Thanks.
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# ? Nov 12, 2017 00:14 |
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OSU_Matthew posted:I don't know about oil based paints, but for latex paints, the harbor freight "klaus and becker" airless sprayer is absolutely tits. OSU_Matthew posted:I wouldn't buy any paint sprayers off Craigslist by the way. If you don't thoroughly clean it after every single use, without exception, they're toast, and there's no way to test that on a Craigslist buy. Disagree. You clean the tip, you're good; you can leave material in the lines for days, or sometimes longer depending. Also, for CL, you go to the person's place and fire the unit up. Granted, buying new removes that headache, and also GREAT GREAT BARGAINS. Painters are the biggest flakes in construction, they'll let their gear go for chump change sometimes.
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# ? Nov 12, 2017 00:36 |
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sharkytm posted:The super splitting axe is awesome. It's far lighter than a maul, and does a great job with splitting. If you need the weight to use a splitting wedge, get a sledgehammer. I've got an 8# maul and the SSA, and the maul gets used like three times a year. I'm the exact opposite. I've got that maul and the estwing 4# fireside friend maul, and between the two of them, my axe and hatchet barely get used. The maul is definitely overkill for anything smaller than like 6in diameter, but I'm lazy and would rather swing that every time than keep track of the axe and use both. For smaller stuff, I can basically just drop the maul on it and let gravity do most of the work. Mind you, I am using it on slices of tree from my woods, not making already split wood smaller.
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# ? Nov 12, 2017 02:32 |
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stealie72 posted:I'm the exact opposite. I've got that maul and the estwing 4# fireside friend maul, and between the two of them, my axe and hatchet barely get used. The maul is definitely overkill for anything smaller than like 6in diameter, but I'm lazy and would rather swing that every time than keep track of the axe and use both. For smaller stuff, I can basically just drop the maul on it and let gravity do most of the work. The SSA isn't a normal axe. It's got a wedge. It works way way better than I expected, and it doesn't tire me out because it's so much lighter. The force comes from speed, not mass. I split rounds too.
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# ? Nov 12, 2017 04:23 |
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sharkytm posted:The SSA isn't a normal axe. It's got a wedge. It works way way better than I expected, and it doesn't tire me out because it's so much lighter. The force comes from speed, not mass. I split rounds too. Well poo poo, the pic with it in the plastic holster thing made it look like it has the same head geometry as the fiskars hatchet, which doesn't have much of a wedge. Carry on. Edit: to clarify, I have the hatchet and it's the best hatchet I've ever used. stealie72 fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Nov 12, 2017 |
# ? Nov 12, 2017 04:40 |
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stealie72 posted:Edit: to clarify, I have the hatchet and it's the best hatchet I've ever used. Hell yeah it is. They're a staple among me and my buddies for camping trips, and we've taken down some seriously impressive standing deadwood trees using nothing but them (and some time.)
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# ? Nov 12, 2017 05:01 |
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I've got the hatchet too, it's taken a huge amount of abuse and hasn't failed me yet. I'm a big Fiskars fan, their post-hole digger is the only one I've ever used that didn't make me want to bury the tool instead of the post.
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# ? Nov 12, 2017 16:18 |
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Okay, so one vote for axe and one for maul. Anyone else have an opinion?
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# ? Nov 12, 2017 17:38 |
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I'll second the Super Splitter. I've used plenty of both mauls and axes, and after I bought an SSA, I bought a second one so my wife and I could both split at the same time. I'll never again pick up a maul as my first option. And if I can't split it with the SSA, I'll probably need to split it with a chainsaw anyway.
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# ? Nov 12, 2017 19:00 |
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One Legged Ninja posted:I'll second the Super Splitter. I've used plenty of both mauls and axes, and after I bought an SSA, I bought a second one so my wife and I could both split at the same time. I'll never again pick up a maul as my first option. And if I can't split it with the SSA, I'll probably need to split it with a chainsaw anyway. I'll fourth it. Amazon informs me I bought the X27 in 2013, so four years of splitting duty and no complaints yet.
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# ? Nov 12, 2017 22:31 |
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Screw it, I'm getting the splitting axe too. It sounds awesome.
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# ? Nov 13, 2017 00:28 |
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stealie72 posted:Screw it, I'm getting the splitting axe too. It sounds awesome. LOL. Yup, it's worth it.
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# ? Nov 13, 2017 01:38 |
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Welp, that decision’s been made. Thanks everyone!
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# ? Nov 13, 2017 01:41 |
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Hm, that might work. The big question is how thick the walls are; there's very little space between the outside wall of the port and the back of the router table's fence. But that's a much better bet than anything else commercial I've seen so far. Thanks. That's what I use, but on miter saw rather than router (so fitting geometry is less of a concern). That's just a flex coupling you should be able to find in a variety of sizes at your local hardware store if you want to check it out and/or have the option of returning it. Hubis fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Nov 13, 2017 |
# ? Nov 13, 2017 02:07 |
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The Midniter posted:Welp, that decision’s been made. Thanks everyone! Probably too late, but forget the axe for splitting wood, use the hammer instead: https://youtu.be/4-RhakR3Hg8 (1:30 for the action ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KKU8Z0Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_G9ycAb4JKADAD
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# ? Nov 13, 2017 13:29 |
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OSU_Matthew posted:Probably too late, but forget the axe for splitting wood, use the hammer instead: For kindling in a fixed location, that looks like a nice tool. I use my Fiskars hatchet for that, but I've certainly gotten closer to my fingers than I'd like before.
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# ? Nov 13, 2017 18:08 |
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OSU_Matthew posted:Probably too late, but forget the axe for splitting wood, use the hammer instead: if you have access to a welder, a large pipe ring, some metal scraps and an old axe head can give you the same thing.
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# ? Nov 13, 2017 18:52 |
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Hubis posted:That's what I use, but on miter saw rather than router (so fitting geometry I'd less of a concern). I've had the issue that 2-1/2" is kind of a hard to find size. I don't know about in every area.
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# ? Nov 13, 2017 18:53 |
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Anyone have a recommendation for a small-ish generator? I would need it to run the fridge and some entertainment, mostly. So I don't think it would need to be a 3k monstrosity. (I don't know how I would hook up the furnace or the water heater, but we have a wood stove so heat wouldn't be the biggest issue. Keeping food from spoiling is.)
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# ? Nov 14, 2017 00:45 |
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Honda. I've got an eu2000i, and it's light enough to carry with one hand and runs for hours on half a gallon.
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# ? Nov 14, 2017 01:01 |
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Thank you for the quick reply. I should have also added that I'm looking for a cheap generator, lol. Eventually down the line I'll definitely invest in a good generator, but I'm busted from moving and just looking to avoid days without electricity. Last week cost us $250 in groceries going bad.
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# ? Nov 14, 2017 01:09 |
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Thank you for the quick reply. I should have also added that I'm looking for a cheap generator, lol. That covered 1/4 the cost of an eu2000. Honda makes generators, everyone else makes toys. If you want cheap, then there are other inverter units that are pretty much knockoffs of the Honda. HF has one for $500. https://www.harborfreight.com/engines-generators/inverter-generators/2000-watt-super-quiet-inverter-generator-62523.html Buy the extended warranty. There are zero parts available AFAIK, so if anything breaks, you're left guessing at what crossreference parts from some actually-supported generator will fit. Here: lots of opinions, mostly agreeing with me. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=373095&highlight=generator&showall=1 sharkytm fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Nov 14, 2017 |
# ? Nov 14, 2017 03:06 |
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Anyone have any recommendations for auto darkening welding goggles? VVVVVVVVVVVVVV E- Well it didn't literally mean goggles, but thanks for that. TheBananaKing fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Nov 24, 2017 |
# ? Nov 24, 2017 04:58 |
Yeah, a mask.
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# ? Nov 24, 2017 05:05 |
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I've been pretty happy with https://store.cyberweld.com/jabasaaudawe.html, but I don't have a lot of experience with other helmets to compare it against
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# ? Nov 24, 2017 05:11 |
I have no complaints about the hobart I bought at tractor supply one weekend when my old mask died. Has all the controls and nice big glass. Worked great for the eclipse, too. e: TheBananaKing posted:VVVVVVVVVVVVVV E- Well it didn't literally mean goggles, but thanks for that. I mean, you say that, but it's really a thing: Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Nov 24, 2017 |
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# ? Nov 24, 2017 05:22 |
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I like this Rhino. It has a large viewing area, which I love. https://www.amazon.com/RHINO-LARGE-...g=weldstarav-20
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# ? Nov 24, 2017 12:38 |
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I want to be able to hang doors in my house (where the frame is already in place). What sort of tool do I need in order to cut out the correct shapes for the hinges in order to attach them to doors? Do handymen use chisels or is there some sort of Dremel attachment that would work better? I have only ever hung doors where the hinges were pre-attached, so this is a new thing for me.
tadashi fucked around with this message at 14:30 on Nov 24, 2017 |
# ? Nov 24, 2017 14:16 |
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If you're doing a whole bunch you need a trim router and to make yourself a template. If you're doing 1 or 2 just sharpen your chisel.
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# ? Nov 24, 2017 14:49 |
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# ? Jun 4, 2024 20:16 |
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tadashi posted:I want to be able to hang doors in my house (where the frame is already in place). What sort of tool do I need in order to cut out the correct shapes for the hinges in order to attach them to doors? Do handymen use chisels or is there some sort of Dremel attachment that would work better? I have only ever hung doors where the hinges were pre-attached, so this is a new thing for me. To expand on the router method, you need specifically a router with a base rub collar (not the collet) attachment and a straight bit. You can make a jig from plywood scrap and you'll want to experiment on scraps. Typically for a straight 1/2" router bit the collar will have something like 3/32" clearance around it. So for 3 1/2" door butts (hinges) you'd have a height on the inside cut area of the jig of 3 11/16". Seeing as the jambs are already there, you'll need to tack on an offset to the jig to allow for the doorstops. edit- then you'll really need to get that sucker centered for each cut where the hinge will go. Eyeballing is not recommended. Some 4d finish nails in the plywood jig to tack to the jamb.
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# ? Nov 24, 2017 17:35 |