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Dagen H posted:Yep. Ford used cork intake end gaskets, which tended to push out from under the manifold and leak. In particular, use The Right Stuff. SBCs have a similar setup and the rubber end gaskets are loving useless. A big bead of Right Stuff seals it up good.
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Nov 23, 2017 15:23
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IOwnCalculus posted:In particular, use The Right Stuff. SBCs have a similar setup and the rubber end gaskets are loving useless. A big bead of Right Stuff seals it up good. Ah yes the rear China wall. I've fought that bastard for years on my 283. Last attack was Indian head glued the cork gasket to the wall and set the intake on it overnight to dry. Then Indian head on the intake side and again overnight to dry them I torqued it down. Nothing before worked, dry gasket, rtved gasket, just rtv, nothing. It would always blow out when I would open the secondaries so I haven't done that either since then. I bet that's what it is on sinisters truck since it only leaks under acceleration. Can't believe I didn't think of that before after my years long battle with that fucker on mine.
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Nov 23, 2017 15:48
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Wezlar posted:I've been having trouble with my battery dying, tested my battery and got the alternator tested and both are checking out fine. Tested the draw with a multimeter and I got .6. I consider 0.15A to be absolute maximum, and even that is gonna drain the battery. A lot of cars will use more power for up to 5 minutes after the vehicle is turned off and the doors are closed as different modules transition into a low power mode. Stuff like alarms, body control module, etc. So wait a bit before diving in. If it's still draining, then yes, start pulling fuses. Start with aftermarket stuff like the radio and any amps. go for power locks and windows next.
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Nov 23, 2017 17:18
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shy boy from chess club posted:Ah yes the rear China wall. I've fought that bastard for years on my 283. Last attack was Indian head glued the cork gasket to the wall and set the intake on it overnight to dry. Then Indian head on the intake side and again overnight to dry them I torqued it down. Nothing before worked, dry gasket, rtved gasket, just rtv, nothing. It would always blow out when I would open the secondaries so I haven't done that either since then. Turns out Indian Head shellac doesn't work on ACVWs though. They just run too hot and cook the sealant into charcoal dust. I wouldn't use it on hot areas. The Right Stuff did work for me.
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Nov 23, 2017 17:52
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kid sinister posted:What size is the radio opening? You may need to get an adapter plate since most radios come in single DIN. If you're getting bluetooth, then you'll pretty much be getting hands free calling too, which might involve threading a microphone wire through your dash and finding a location to mount the mike. ExecuDork posted:I dunno if you're still checking this thread, but I second Crutchfield, at least to find what you want. Your requirements should be pretty easy to satisfy, by my guess. Just went to Canadian Tire and looked at this JVC kd-x240bt (which is actually on-sale in store, but isn't showing that online, for $90CAD), and then checked crutchfield.com for whether it would fit/what I would need for it. Haven't picked it up yet but I probably will. Thanks for the advice
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Nov 23, 2017 20:00
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I had the KD-X50BT, the 2-generations-prior of that, and it was a solid unit. Thumped my car pretty hard (for a head unit, everything is relative) when I wanted to. Of course, that car was a 72 Beetle, so take that into consideration.
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Nov 24, 2017 01:32
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My 1995 Toyota Camry has a Prestige security system with a nice little key fob, model number on the back is APS2k4. The fob's completely hosed; it's gone into the ocean one too many times and no longer works. Apparently they don't make these things anymore so the price on Amazon/Ebay/elsewhere is exorbitant, like $50 for one of these pieces of poo poo when I don't think that the entire alarm system even costed that much when it was new. Googling around I've seen hints that you can replace this transmitter with a newer model that's still in production, and presumably cheaper, but I haven't been able to unveil any definitive answers. Does anyone here have any ideas? For reference the keyfob looks like this: https://www.amazon.com/Prestige-APS2K4CF50CS-Replacement-Transmitter/dp/B00E1SDOBY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511502133&sr=8-1&keywords=aps2k4 lol yeah right I'm not paying $60 for a new fob. Get bent, Discount Mobile Video!
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Nov 24, 2017 06:43
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Re:Alarm Keyfob... I think $50 seems like a worthwhile cost for something that, if it fails, could leave you stranded literally anywhere. I’d either pay up or not use it, rather than try something with less than 100% reliability.
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Nov 24, 2017 16:31
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So it sounds like that alarm is either an APS800 or APS885. Looks like this might work. I can't vouch for this company, i just googled APS885 remote. This is the same remote on ebay (looks like the same seller too). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Nov 24, 2017 |
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Nov 24, 2017 16:55
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I'm trying to figure out if I should get new winter tires, or if the older studded tires I have are fine. Disclaimer: I know next to nothing about cars (or tires). Car: 2006 Pontiac Vibe (2wd). It's not a car that really inspires confidence in poor road conditions. Usage: 95% of the winter will be just wet and non-freezing temps (Portland, Oregon). I do want to drive into the mountains this winter for snowshoeing and other winter sports, so occasional snowy/icy plowed highways and snowpacked parking lots. Hopefully not much snowy side roads. I currently have a set of Nokian Hakkapelliitta 2 (studded) that my dad gave me a long while back. They're at least 10 years old (I'm estimating, could be older), but the tread still looks good to my amateur eyes. They've been used very infrequently, some seasons not at all. I understand that modern winter tires have improvements in rubber technology and other fancy poo poo that makes them as good or better than studded tires. I've also read that studded tires can possibly have worse stopping and traction on non-freezing wet pavement than regular winter tires. I'm also aware that studded tires are terrible for road surfaces, which makes me feel a bit guilty when they're on. With all that in mind, would it be wise to just buy a brand new set of winter tires? Or would they even make any practical difference versus the older studded set I currently have? Related question: Is it wise to carry chains in these sort of conditions, despite having good winter tires? Or is that redundant or even counterproductive to the winter tire's work? A lot of people around here carry chains in the winter, but I wonder if it's a holdover from the days when winter tires weren't as good. incogneato fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Nov 24, 2017 |
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Nov 24, 2017 18:07
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incogneato posted:I'm trying to figure out if I should get new winter tires, or if the older studded tires I have are fine. Disclaimer: I know next to nothing about cars (or tires). Whether you buy new tires or not - dump the 10 year old tires. They're dead, even if they look good. You're going to have issues with flat spots, dry rot, and tread separation. A good tire shop won't even mount them if they know they're that old.
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Nov 24, 2017 18:14
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Double check the date codes on those tires first: But yes if they're legit 10 years old, they're done. Any shop should check the age of a tire before they mount it, and any shop I've ever worked with would absolutely refuse to touch a 10 year old tire for any purpose other than disposal.
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Nov 24, 2017 18:18
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Cool, thanks all! New tires it is. I'll do some research on winter tires, but if anyone has recommendations I'm happy to start there. I'm assuming the current recommendation is non-studded? I'd rather not rip up the local roads with studs, unless they're just objectively way better or something.
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Nov 24, 2017 18:28
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Studs are a lot better in certain icy conditions - you're guaranteed to always have at least some grip on studs, which isn't always the case without them. On most frozen surfaces it's pretty much a wash compared to studless tires of comparable quality. They're worse that studless in every other conceivable way; road wear, noise, fuel efficiency, ride comfort, traction on dry road etc.
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Nov 24, 2017 19:23
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incogneato posted:Cool, thanks all! New tires it is. Tirerack.com has generally excellent reviews and they do a whole series of tests on winter tires every year. Burn some time watching their videos and reading their opinions.
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Nov 24, 2017 22:52
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Studs have super limited usage in places where roads are plowed. From my experience pretty much any midrange winter tire is good, and even Hankooks offer a discernible advantage over all seasons. If you've got money to spare get a well reviewed brand name tire, otherwise you should be fine with a lesser winter tire but you might get fewer seasons out of them.
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Nov 25, 2017 01:47
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I've had a few sets of Firestone Winterforces and they are cheap and fantastic in the snow. Never tried them on ice but I love them, they work awesome.
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Nov 25, 2017 02:31
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Breakfast Feud posted:If you've got money to spare get a well reviewed brand name tire, otherwise you should be fine with a lesser winter tire but you might get fewer seasons out of them. I don't mind spending a bit more for the peace of mind that I'm less likely to get stuck up on the mountain outside cell service. Or slide off the mountain. After reading reviews, I've narrowed it down to Michelin X-Ice Xi3 or Nokian Hakkapeliitta R2. The Nokians seem to be widely considered the better tire, but they're a full $200+ more for a set ($185 per tire, Michelins are $127 each). That's a big jump, and it's hard to tell with the reviews if it's really that significant of a difference. I'm leaning toward the "second place" Michelins, given our relatively light usage. Discount Tire has a $100 rebate going on right now, which takes away the sting a bit either way.
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Nov 25, 2017 05:35
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incogneato posted:I don't mind spending a bit more for the peace of mind that I'm less likely to get stuck up on the mountain outside cell service. Or slide off the mountain. The Michelin tires finished 4-5th in most of the yearly big magazine tests of winter tires in Sweden. The Nokian tire finished 1st (joint with Continental Viking Contact 6)-3rd in the same magazines. There isn't a massive difference between the top tires though. The main difference seems to be that the Michelin tire handles a bit worse in wet / snow. I can't view the specifics since it's behind a paywall. Winter tires are serious business in Sweden. Much because we are required by law to have them on in winter condition, which usually means dec-march. Winter conditions range from pretty much snow being on the roads 100% of the winter in the north to constant thawing, freezing and generally treacherous conditions in the middle / south.
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Nov 25, 2017 10:10
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MrOnBicycle posted:The Michelin tires finished 4-5th in most of the yearly big magazine tests of winter tires in Sweden. The Nokian tire finished 1st (joint with Continental Viking Contact 6)-3rd in the same magazines. There isn't a massive difference between the top tires though. The main difference seems to be that the Michelin tire handles a bit worse in wet / snow. I can't view the specifics since it's behind a paywall. Interesting, what were the others between the Nokians and the Michelins? Most things I found (granted in English) indicated Nokian > Michelin > Bridgestone. What other ones should I be looking at?
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Nov 25, 2017 16:45
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incogneato posted:Interesting, what were the others between the Nokians and the Michelins? Most things I found (granted in English) indicated Nokian > Michelin > Bridgestone. What other ones should I be looking at? Friction tires: Goodyear UltraGrip Ice 2 Continental WinterContact TS860 Continental VikingContact 6 ... and in case you are interested in studded tires: Continental ContiIceContact 2 (1st / 2nd in tests) Nokian Hakkapeliitta 8 (1st / 4 th) Pirelli Winter Ice Zero (3rd / 4th) I'd say bottom line is that they are all very good tires, and I'd probably pick the cheapest one of them. As a comparison, a tire that's often raved about in the US, the Blizzak, finishes behind all of the above, in all the tests. The tests are made by (usually) 4 big players. One of them is usually "Teknikens Värld", the magazine that do the (in)famous moose tests. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgVue72wqnI MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Nov 25, 2017 |
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Nov 25, 2017 18:35
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MrOnBicycle posted:Friction tires: It looks like all of those are only available in Europe for some reason. I even found an auto website discussing how good the UltraGrip Ice 2 are compared to the Goodyears in the United States, and bemoaning Goodyear's apparent lack of interest to bring them here. I appreciate the detailed response though. I may just bite the bullet and shell out for the Nokians.
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Nov 26, 2017 00:07
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1988 F150 oil leak update: Holy gently caress was this truck dirty! I took me 2 whole days to get the lower intake manifold off and everything inside cleaned up. There was SO much grime inside and out. 2 bolts had so much gunk on the outsides, I had to pull intake off with them still in their holes because they couldn't fit out. The fuel injectors were so clogged, I don't know how it even ran. I used a grand total of 11 razor blades to scrape all of the old gaskets off the heads and intake. The good news is that I think I found the leak! The back seal just fell apart in my hands and it sure was oily on that little shelf behind it. I still need to put it back together in the morning. I swear, my truck must have lost a full 20 pounds in gunk since I started fixing all of the leaks this year. That counts for weight reduction, right? edit: the intake gaskets down there were Ford, so they're probably original. The front and back seals were indeed cork, which is a natural product, on a 29 year old truck. Leak found? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Nov 26, 2017 |
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Nov 26, 2017 00:28
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It sounds like it. Because it didnt make any sense for the bottom end to lose oil like that otherwise even if it wasnt sealed well. Those passageways can get nasty over time you might want to run some seafoam in the oil for a 100 miles or so before oil changes a couple times, or check the pressure. How long did the valves tic after you put oil back in it after you fully lost pressure, or am i remembering that wrong?
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Nov 26, 2017 02:33
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I haven't heard them since, but I did notice that my truck didn't sound normal. Of course, I've swapped so many parts recently that I'm not sure what "normal" sounds like now. It does have an exhaust leak at the left manifold-pipe connection so I'm sure that's changing the sound. How do I fix that one anyway? The slide flange is rusty and bent to hell now, so the pipe flare doesn't match up well now. How do I fix that by the way?
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Nov 26, 2017 03:06
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2004 Scion xB, bagged. I did my own alignment after redoing a ton of suspension items. Car tracks straight, but the steering wheel is off at an angle. Sometimes, the VSC (not trac control) starts going haywire, beeping at me and trying to alter the car’s braking, accelerating, etc. Won’t turn back off until I drop below 20mph, ish. Is this the result of the crooked steering wheel after the alignment? (Probably.) If it is, is this correctable by removing the steering wheel and re-orienting it so it is straight, instead of putting the car back on stands and changing the specs of the tie rods yet again?
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Nov 26, 2017 03:54
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Revvik posted:2004 Scion xB, bagged. It looks like that vehicle does use a steering angle sensor, so yes, having the wheel off like that may gently caress it up. You will need to figure out how to recalibrate its zero point.
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Nov 26, 2017 04:13
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kid sinister posted:I haven't heard them since, but I did notice that my truck didn't sound normal. Of course, I've swapped so many parts recently that I'm not sure what "normal" sounds like now. It does have an exhaust leak at the left manifold-pipe connection so I'm sure that's changing the sound. How do I fix that one anyway? The slide flange is rusty and bent to hell now, so the pipe flare doesn't match up well now. How do I fix that by the way? Oh i was wondering if it lasted a minute or two or 10 mins but if you dont remember its cool i was just curious. Oil has to work its way back up. Lots of stuff can cause it like timing issues, fuel, exhaust manifold leaks etc so i wouldnt worry because all your other issues could cause it too. With all thats sludge your engine probably looks gross all over so id just keep an eye on it and treat the sludge for awhile personally. At the end of the day a 302 can handle a good amount of sludge you just dont want it to get out of hand because they are prone to it imo. To be honest ive never worked on a good example though its always been beaters so i could be wrong about them but it all sounds familiar.
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Nov 26, 2017 04:28
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rdb posted:It looks like that vehicle does use a steering angle sensor, so yes, having the wheel off like that may gently caress it up. You will need to figure out how to recalibrate its zero point. Yeah I figured but there’s not a lot of information out there on the reset procedure. Which is why I’m wondering if I can fake it out by taking the steering wheel off and putting it back on centered. Going to try that later today I guess. The only information I could find is that yes, the car will check the angle of the steering wheel against the angle of the wheels and go “holy poo poo you’re gonna die” and try to fix things.
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Nov 26, 2017 21:10
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Revvik posted:Yeah I figured but there’s not a lot of information out there on the reset procedure. Which is why I’m wondering if I can fake it out by taking the steering wheel off and putting it back on centered. Going to try that later today I guess. You probably need a bi directional scan tool, TIS/mongoose cable etc. I don’t think you will be able to fake it. You can buy a counterfeit mongoose cable and copy of techstream for $20 but you will need a 32 bit windows computer to run it from what I gather.
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Nov 26, 2017 22:52
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I know that regional differences play a big role in pricing, but how much (ballpark) should I be expecting to pay a shop to regear my front end? 97 Jeep Wrangler with a stock d30
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Nov 26, 2017 23:10
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Revvik posted:Yeah I figured but there’s not a lot of information out there on the reset procedure. Which is why I’m wondering if I can fake it out by taking the steering wheel off and putting it back on centered. Going to try that later today I guess. Isn't there a wider tooth on the steering-shaft spline that indicates the centerline?
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Nov 27, 2017 01:16
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Karma Comedian posted:I know that regional differences play a big role in pricing, but how much (ballpark) should I be expecting to pay a shop to regear my front end? I just looked into this for my jeep. Theres a local dude with a shop that does it as a hobby, he charges 300 per axle, labor only. The shop nearby charges closer to 450 per axle. A rebuild kit runs a little over 100 I think, with gears on top of that.
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Nov 27, 2017 01:54
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Astonishing Wang posted:I just looked into this for my jeep. Theres a local dude with a shop that does it as a hobby, he charges 300 per axle, labor only. The shop nearby charges closer to 450 per axle. A rebuild kit runs a little over 100 I think, with gears on top of that. Oh that's not bad at all. Gotta get mine into the shop for some unrelated things too. I finally got it running, then I went trail riding today with a group of friends and it started acting weird. It just doesn't sound quite right? A lot rougher than it should. And I don't know dick about aftermarket efis and chevy v8s so 
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Nov 27, 2017 03:03
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Karma Comedian posted:Oh that's not bad at all. Has it been sitting for a while? Maybe just bad gas?
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Nov 27, 2017 03:43
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0toShifty posted:Has it been sitting for a while? Maybe just bad gas? I mean, maybe at least in part, but I topped it off and then went trail riding and added 5 more gallons after. Its throwing a map sensor voltage code, but again I've got no experience with aftermarket efi systems so I'm not about to tear into it unsupervised
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Nov 27, 2017 03:47
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I am going to replace the plugs and some other maintenance on my 2011 Ford Edge 3.5L V6. Is this anti-seize acceptable for my plugs? The guide I found recommended another but I had the first one left over from brakes; I don't really know why it wouldn't work given the temperature and other ratings but the recommended stuff is nickel and this is aluminum. Plugs I'm going to use are the OE, which are platinum.
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Nov 28, 2017 00:21
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2006 Honda SI coupe Car has been draining its battery over long weekends without driving. I got out my multimeter and started doing a parasitic draw check. Got a 0.37 amp draw with the vehicle shut off. Since my stereo is aftermarket and the previous owner did some dumbfuck things to the wiring it was my first pull, but that didn't do poo poo. But pulling the "Back Up" fuse in the under hood fuse box dropped the drawn down to zero. Keeping in mind the stereo is still unhooked what sort of places should I be looking for? I did notice there is some intermittent drops in the audio on the way home today, like maybe one or more of the passenger side speakers dropped out briefly. If I can't track this down tonight can I just pull that fuse and keep going? Looks like it might also give the ECU its backup, but would it really matter since my other option is to pull the battery cut off from my truck and use it until I can do this during daylight? I'm trying to hunt down my Haynes manual or an online wiring diagram so I can confirm/deny that bit. edit: Oookay, can't pull that one because it sends power to something that controls a lot of important poo poo. But it looks like it also sends power into the interior fuse box for some accessory poo poo so off I go pulling those fuses! Parts Kit fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Nov 28, 2017 |
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Nov 28, 2017 02:17
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Parts Kit posted:2006 Honda SI coupe You're on the right track here. If you can rustle up a wiring diagram you'd be in even better shape.
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Nov 28, 2017 02:34
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I found it. It is possibly the most single retarded car thing I have ever seen, previous owners not withstanding. It's the god drat driver's power door lock button. Yes, the button. The button is pulling over one third of one amp. The spring return for it broke some time ago so it gets stuck on the "lock" side and when it's not in the middle it draws loving 0.37 amps. Get it in the middle (which I did totally by accident while reaching for something else) and the drain immediately drops to zero. The unlock side drains a lot too, but not nearly as much. As to how much poo poo I've got to remove to get at the thing? Basically all the plastic on the god drat door! And it's got a single wiring harness for the locks and the power windows so yay for that! Imagine a  slowly growing to fit your entire screen, that's me right now.
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Nov 28, 2017 03:17
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