|
Powershift posted:If i saw non-stock hemi badging on a mopar, i would immediately assume it's the 2.7 liter. The C badge is still on the trunk, but I decided I'd try a little something on the fender to see how it worked. I'm loving the look without the side trim, I just want a way to put a few badges back on it. When my cnc gets finished, I'm probably making a badge similar to the stock one with Hemi on it somewhere, since my trim actually doesn't say Hemi on the car anywhere.
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2017 02:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 09:44 |
|
|
Powershift posted:If i saw non-stock hemi badging on a mopar, i would immediately assume it's the 2.7 liter.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2017 02:50
|
|
|
Powershift posted:If i saw non-stock hemi badging on a mopar, i would immediately assume it's the 2.7 liter. This only is true if you cannot hear evidence otherwise
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2017 07:00
|
|
|
Took the FXT to stage 2. 3” catted DP and a reflash. Side-by-side you can really see how restrictive the stock downpipe is, and I lucked out and got this divorced wastegate pipe for less than 1/3 of the price of a new catted pipe.   
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2017 21:20
|
|
|
Figured out a way to solve my no charge at idle issue: move the idle screw until it charges. If the truck makes it to summer I'll have to find a real solution but I'm kicking myself for not thinking of this sooner.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2017 01:43
|
|
|
Oil Change, removed engine beauty cover and wiped it down and then a bath.  
Mr-Spain fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Nov 27, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2017 03:59
|
|
|
Is that Some Like It Hot Red or the other red?
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2017 04:22
|
|
|
Breakfast Feud posted:Figured out a way to solve my no charge at idle issue: move the idle screw until it charges. Another fun solution is a smaller pulley for the alternator.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2017 04:39
|
|
|
Boaz MacPhereson posted:Is that Some Like It Hot Red or the other red? Some Like it Hot. In bright light it's a real coppery color, overcast its almost burgundy. Edit: higher rez https://i.imgur.com/0KbwjxY.jpg
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2017 04:50
|
|
|
Mr-Spain posted:Some Like it Hot. In bright light it's a real coppery color, overcast its almost burgundy. I think I really like that color, but I've never seen it look the same in more than one picture. I've been stalking local dealerships to see if they ever get one in because I really want to see that color in person. If it looks the way I think it does, I may end up using it on my car eventually. Nice ride, man.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2017 14:44
|
|
|
Boaz MacPhereson posted:I think I really like that color, but I've never seen it look the same in more than one picture. I've been stalking local dealerships to see if they ever get one in because I really want to see that color in person. If it looks the way I think it does, I may end up using it on my car eventually. Thanks! I've been looking at rebuilt LSA blowers on ZZP but it's gotta stay someone stock for now w/ a warranty and dailying it and all.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2017 14:58
|
|
|
Took the F150 back to the shop because it barfed a bunch of oil on my driveway after a long ride. Looks like the valve cover gaskets they put on after they replaced my timing chain were poo poo and failed after 10,000 miles. Luckily the service writer is gonna cover them under warranty even after he was explicitly told that he is not allowed to warranty gaskets.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2017 20:44
|
|
|
I just want to say, gently caress ethanol. I like it, my liver hates it, and so does my mom's lawnmower that has been sitting for awhile.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2017 21:00
|
|
C-Bangin' it
|
Swapped out the O2 sensor. The check engine light came on after a day of driving. Hopefully this fixes it, since I grounded the plug and the OBD reader showed 0.0V, meaning the wiring is good. If this doesn't fix the issue, I either have a bad pcm or catalytic converter on bank 2 (the passenger side). It's only 30 bucks and took me less than 15 minutes, so I went ahead and did the 98% fix and I'm crossing my fingers.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2017 21:07
|
|
|
Broke 190k. Also today, heard a bang and the car got a bit louder, and I heard something banging around under the car. Pulled over, and... uh.... the rear o2 sensor is just gone. The wires are still there. Sensor is gone. Threads are intact on the bung.  Also noticed it's pissing oil now; when I changed the oil a week ago, it was pretty dry. Front and rear crank seals are leaking, so is the oil pan gasket, and there's oil pooled in the intake resonator. There's no PCV valve, but there is a PCV orifice in the intake manifold that clogs up over time - first symptom is the rear seal puking and oil pooling in the resonator. Guess I get to pull the intake and clean it out (supposedly it'll stop puking once the PCV is working again).Got a new O2 sensor ordered, should be here Wednesday (could have gone to AutoZone, but it would have been $20 more.. and a Bosch sensor, which I'm not a fan of). Someone's gonna be pretty confused when they get a flat tire and find an O2 sensor jammed in their tire. No idea where it went, just heard it banging around under the car before I could pull over. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Nov 28, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2017 06:34
|
|
|
Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Broke 190k. lol maybe it exploded?
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2017 21:22
|
|
|
Twisted wire on install and it backed out?
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2017 21:25
|
|
|
Metal Geir Skogul posted:Twisted wire on install and it backed out? That was more or less my guess.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2017 21:33
|
|
|
It was the original sensor, but it was in a spacer.  I'm tempted to put a little loctite on the new one before I install it. I'll be replacing the cat+downpipe if I wind up keeping the car more than another year, so I'm not too worried about the new one getting stuck in there. The upside is.. the sensor was dead anyway, and was unplugged (it was popping the emissions fuse when plugged in). The downside that I discovered today is I had tied the cable around another cable so I'd be able to find it easily when I got around to replacing it (was going to use it to pull the new cable into place)... when it escaped, it yanked pretty good on the wires it was tied to.  No broken wires that I've found, but the split loom is destroyed on the part of the harness it was tied to. At the least, I'm going to have to replace a decent chunk of split loom, but I have some laying around. Good thing I'm not good at tying knots; I have no idea where the plug itself went, but it's definitely not where I left it.Metal Geir Skogul posted:Twisted wire on install and it backed out? Possibly. I'll be sure to keep the new one untwisted when I install it tomorrow. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:06 on Nov 29, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2017 09:57
|
|
|
Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Possibly. I'll be sure to keep the new one untwisted when I install it tomorrow. Yeah. Screw it before you plug it. Wait...
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2017 00:02
|
|
|
Think you got it backwards there, chief.  (wait, you mean the sensor...)Anyway.. new one is installed. Cleared the CEL, went for a drive. The eye of sauron came back. Pulled codes... wait, O2 sensor heater circuit? Looked under the hood.. drat plug popped off. Grr. Okay. Plug it back in, thought I felt it click in. Started driving home... Sauron is back! GODDAMNIT, O2 heater circuit code again. Check the plug.. loving thing came out AGAIN. Plug it back in, and it's got a zip tie around it now. It DEFINITELY snapped into place this time, and a good tug  didn't pop it out. Drove the rest of the way home... Sauron seems to be gone. For now.It's been 3 years since I've gone more than a few days without the CEL. I suspect it'll be back sporadically for the MAF, it's been throwing a MAF out of range code occasionally. Meh, I have a month left before I have to get it inspected, a new MAF is only $35 anyway. Also uh I need to get a good wrench.. my socket set + ratchet seems to have disappeared when my old roommates moved out, so it's cranked in there as hard as I could with pliers for now.  Going to get a new socket set Friday, and snug it down further.Given the readings from the new sensor.. maybe the old sensor was in fact the cause of P0420 after all. Even with the spacer, the old sensor was following the primary pretty closely (just with some lag thanks to the spacer, seemed to be enough to trick the ECU); the new one is generally pretty stable until I stomp it. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:35 on Nov 30, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2017 00:47
|
|
|
At least get yourself a medium-sized adjustable wrench. Better than pliers.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2017 17:47
|
|
|
Looooooong overdue oil change. I suspect a lot of what came out was diesel, but any oil change where less than a liter hits the ground and none of it makes it past the wrist is a good oil change. Even got it dead on the full line on the first pour out of the pail. That 0w40 looks so delicious you just want to taste it, but you know you shouldn't, but a little can't hurt, right?
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 04:37
|
|
|
What's a bucket of that set you back? I cringe with my 9L of Mobil 1. I'm fairly good with catching the oil and not making a mess. It's when I'm dumping it into containers for recycling is where I invariably gently caress things up and make a mess. Worst one I did an oil change and had a hell of a time getting the oil filter off. Put the new one on and didn't notice the o-ring from the old was stuck on the block. What a drat mess that was when I fired it up. Bonus points since I had no cat litter and it started to rain.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 16:59
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:What's a bucket of that set you back? I cringe with my 9L of Mobil 1. $127 canadian for 18.9 liter pail, The truck only takes about 15.5 liters, so i almost have enough to do the car, too.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 17:09
|
|
|
Not bad, around $5USD a qt.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 17:16
|
|
|
I bought 90L of T6 in 5L jugs for $90CAD. No, no typos, 1$/L.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 22:46
|
|
|
That Turtle Wax trim restorer is great, just spent 4 hours or so restoring all the trim in the Tracker that's been baking in the Florida sun since 1991. Going to need to go over it again tomorrow though because that plastic and rubber is thirsty.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 23:21
|
|
|
Swapped out the 10+ yr old 30x10.5x15 Michelin LTXs with 235/75R15 Falken Wildpeakes on my 88 Toyota 4x4. So nice to actually have traction in the rain again. Plus, being roughly 1" smaller, the truck felt peppier with the stock 4.10 gearing.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2017 03:45
|
|
|
So I kinda bullied myself into dropping my front bumper because I thought I could get around VWs repair guide, but they failed to mention the water and power lines for convenience features, so all my working around dropping the bumper lead to me having to drop the bumper NOW. Really made me appreciate how much quality design goes into good cars, the fact that you can just throw the whole bumper back onto the car and it almost completely locates on it's own is loving amazing. I really appreciate every time screwholes just line up by design with huge flexible parts like this.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2017 22:25
|
|
|
Before After  Need to tar remover that ghost of the stickers left over. Next it is replacing the one rotted out rocker, grinding out the other surface rust and primering it, fix the electric windows and figure out the issue with the heat that seems to happen with these things. Picked it up for $2k this week as a winter beater and for hauling crap about. Going to be closer to $4k by the time it is road worthy I expect.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 00:41
|
|
|
BigPaddy posted:Before your window issue is 98% gonna be the master switch in the drivers door. Those things fail like the rest of the interior electronics.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 00:50
|
|
|
I am going to replace the door controls anyway since the mirrors don't work either and it is likely the same issue. The passenger window works sometimes and you can hear the motor running in the drivers so it might just have detached from the runner. The no heat problem sounds a lot like this one https://sparkys-answers.com/2012/08/2003-chevrolet-silverado-blower-does.html so that is going to be fun.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 01:08
|
|
|
Paid it off. Been acting like it was paid off for awhile here (sorry). But it's legit paid off now. Don't do 5 year loans guys, at least not on stuff you put a shitload of miles on. And especially don't do them with double digit APRs.  I don't want to do the math on what I actually wound up paying.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 12:50
|
|
|
Ouch, yeah the finance charge must have sucked but it is yours now.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 12:52
|
|
|
Yeah... 13.55%..... and that was with a $1500 down payment (the loan rate was the same for $0 down, but they offered me $1200 for my Altima that I had listed on Craigslist for $1500, and I had $300 cash on me, so I threw that at them). At least it was simple interest, so no capitalization involved. First car loan I ever took out. I don't regret buying the car, or even financing it - it's been incredibly reliable, and still runs and drives great even at nearly 200k (got it with a little over 60k) - I just regret doing a 5 year loan. Needed a reliable car, was in a tight spot, Carmax offered me financing at half the APR of the buy here pay here places, gave me a 90 day bumper to bumper warranty, and the car was pretty much showroom fresh. Nuff said. But.. now it's a Saturn with almost 200k. So uh... not so proud of that.  Still a reliable car, but it's doing one of two typical GM things. #! GM thing is drivetrain fails before the car hits 50k, but the interior already looks like it had 200k by then anyway. #2 GM thing is car slowly falls apart around drivetrain, with everything else looking good. Mine has (thank gently caress) opted for #2. Interior still looks pretty decent, except for the drivers seat (not torn, but it's very visibly obvious that all of the foam is gone). Body still looks pretty good, aside from peeling paint on the side skirts and a lot more curb rash on the alloys than I'd like to admit. I mean poo poo, it has almost 191k and the CEL isn't even on! (... for now)e: I'd buy and finance through Carmax again - even when I fell behind they were generally decent to work with. But their cars are at the top end of the KBB value (usually in good enough condition to warrant that, but they have a couple of Kias on the lot near me going for the MSRP of a brand new one... when they're 1-2 years old.. granted, only a few thousand miles, but still  )
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:08 on Dec 3, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 12:55
|
|
|
Added more miles to the turd
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 15:45
|
|
|
Trying to smoke out my taillights a bit and blacking out the emblem in the back. I might just remove the emblem altogether, but I'm just playing around for now. 
EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Dec 3, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 17:51
|
|
|
My unsolicited opinion: keep the smoked emblem, remove the smoked tails and advert for the dealership. I’ve never seen tails that are well executed, and doesn’t flow well with the silver paint in my opinion.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 19:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 09:44 |
|
|
You need to wet sand those taillights, spray several coats of clear, wet sand some more and then cut/buff them and they will look 600% better.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 19:17
|
|
