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Stumbled on an article regarding Harry Potter themed adoptions. Thought it was too cute not to post. I in no way need another dog but would probably fall for this gimmick and would somehow have a second dog now. https://www.bustle.com/p/this-orlando-pet-shelter-sorts-their-animals-into-hogwarts-houses-to-help-them-find-forever-homes-3094294 Here's a picture of my current majestic dog. She would probably a "Hufflefluff" as she just wants to be everyone's bestfriend and is good at the game "Find it".
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# ? Nov 14, 2017 05:00 |
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# ? May 26, 2024 07:34 |
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Does anyone have any experience with a mini schnauzer shitzuh mix they can share?thoughts or impressions
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# ? Nov 14, 2017 05:06 |
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We just got a 9 week old puppy from a lab rescue. Mix of some sort, but not clear what that might be. She's great, mostly. Seems to be 'getting it' with potty training, as we can take her out to the fenced yard very frequently throughout the day. Getting crated next to the bed at night (pretty good with it, lets us know what she has to potty, etc.) and some during the day for short trips out (doesn't like it, we need to be more positive and gentler getting her to love the crate). One thing is driving us nuts and making us really nervous though, and that is incessant whining. She mostly follows us around, but whines and puppy-eyes us constantly unless she is eating, actively playing (or outside), asleep, or being held. With the rest of her needs being met (are they??), she just seems to be angsty or something? There must be a reason for it, but nothing we have been able to isolate or figure out how to deal with (praise her for being calm in the rare moments she is, not giving her attention while whining, trying to get her playing and stimulated as much as possible to tire her out and keep her un-bored, etc.). We have had her just about a week and a half, and she has become more confident around the house and stuff, but whining hasn't ceased. When we ignore her, she paces around the house and whines, doesn't settle unless she is engaged in the aforementioned activities. She was just at the vet yesterday and had no health issues problems, just got a checkup and her second round of shots. Has been eating and sleeping and seems to do normal puppy stuff. So, is there anything to be worried about? To try? Or is there even a problem at all?
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# ? Nov 14, 2017 15:55 |
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My dog is a licker, but he only licks me really. I think my girlfriend is good at telling him no My mum and dad's dog also knows I am the one who will play fetch with him so as soon as I visit he fetches all his toys.... I guess I'm the soft one
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 15:47 |
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As long as she's eating pooping and drinking all is well. Some pups can be very whiny and needy but it sounds like you are doing all the right things, I'm sure she'll grow out of it over time.
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 15:55 |
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One of my 4 week old puppies is very aggressive with the rest of his litter. He growls and often yanks very hard on the most passive one even when she continues to squeal. Is this behavior that I should start to police now, and what is the recommended deterrent?
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 15:55 |
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Waroduce posted:Does anyone have any experience with a mini schnauzer shitzuh mix they can share?thoughts or impressions Not direct experience with that cross, but I've just got a mini schnauzer / king charles spaniel mix as an eight week old pup and she is a lovely thing. Pretty chill, playful with my older dog but listens to her when she gets growled at for hanging off her face too long. She's got the beginnings of the Schnauzer beard and the rest of her coat looks to be fairly wiry so hoping she won't shed much.
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 15:57 |
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The dog training thread is pretty slow, so I have a question here about a new rescue pup we have. She's 7months old and not very well potty trained due to her being moved to a bunch of different places with different potty situations. I know she can hold it for at least 7 hours, as she'll sleep through the night without even attempting to go out. We're doing the wake up and instantly take her out + tons of praise method in the morning, and walking her as much as we can. The other thing we've read is to take them out about 5-15 minutes after they eat since it stimulates them to go to the bathroom again. This may seem like a basic question, but what if food time is 20 minutes after walk time? Do we still do that? We're still working out the timing. She's not crate trained, which is something we're probably going to do, but for now we're leaving her gated in the kitchen during the day. We're in an apartment so its hard to do the whole "immediately interrupt them and rush them outside to finish" since we're on the second floor, no balcony, and all have to get bundled up for winter weather. We've had random piddles on the carpet, and are still learning her cues. It's also been literally 3 nights so I'm not to worried. She actually seems pretty smart, and can already learn to sit on command. She's super loving cute and sweet though, we love her a ton already!
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# ? Nov 17, 2017 16:58 |
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As someone who has never housetrained anything, I can only refer to this document from the OP: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1u53Bw5jWag--ZqjooOa14Fv7XzNyVZ9IpqLGbxQWnxc/edit I think the important thing here is to feed consistently at the same times every day, and using a timer. Time how long it takes for the dog from eating to defecating, then make sure to always take the dog outside at that point. Give a treat when he does it outside as well. I am 2 days away from my puppy, and am not really looking forward to this bit. I am in an apartment as well, so I will have to carry her to the door, put on some shoes, get through the hall and outside into the (now) snow, whenever I see her starting to squat. vOv
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# ? Nov 18, 2017 21:51 |
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There Bias Two posted:One of my 4 week old puppies is very aggressive with the rest of his litter. He growls and often yanks very hard on the most passive one even when she continues to squeal. Is this behavior that I should start to police now, and what is the recommended deterrent? You should get his hearing checked by a vet. Deaf dogs can have a hard time learning bite inhibition since they can't hear their littermates squeal in pain.
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# ? Nov 19, 2017 07:49 |
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Cerebral Mayhem posted:You should get his hearing checked by a vet. Deaf dogs can have a hard time learning bite inhibition since they can't hear their littermates squeal in pain. Thanks for mentioning this! It hadn't occurred to me that it might be a sensory problem.
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# ? Nov 19, 2017 13:09 |
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When I was house training my puppy, I kept a pair of crocs or slip on shoes by the door and the leash hanging from the door knob. I also slept in shorts and a tee shirt (versus just boxers) so that i didn't need to put clothes on in the middle of the night. We just made it habit to go out every 30-40 minutes and we didn't have many issues. Our dog had maybe 4 indoor accidents total and was mostly good in 2-3 weeks. It was very easy compared to what I expected but every dog is different.
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# ? Nov 19, 2017 21:41 |
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Appreciate the link above, it's pretty helpful! The confusing part is that everywhere you read has conflicting advice. Some say to scold, some say to ignore. I'm frustrated, but honestly just need to change our expectations because we're basically need to treat her like a new puppy at this point when it comes to the house training part, not the holding it part. We went 24 hours without an accident in the house and were super excited, and just now she peed right in front of me an hour after taking a big pee outside during her walk. God drat it, she is absolutely the cutest sweetest pup though. She spent most of the afternoon sleeping on my head yesterday! Love this little terror. She just loves to be bad 😈 and i don't blame her, it's fun.
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# ? Nov 19, 2017 23:17 |
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It’s all about celebrating the little victories when training. You just move on from being excited for having no accidents for an afternoon, to a day, then and week and eventually you look back and realize that nothing wrong has happened for a month or two.
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# ? Nov 20, 2017 00:14 |
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Some little dogs can be the worst to housebreak. One of mine has a bladder the size of a dime and insists on going out every hour or so in the evening, as well as any time of stress or additional excitement. The other one is fine going out twice a day.
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# ? Nov 20, 2017 00:42 |
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I had to run down 5 flights of stairs with a Great Dane puppy...thing is, those things hit 30lbs in hurry! Best thing we did, was to keep a pee/poop log next to the crate. It made it very easy to track time between breaks.
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# ? Nov 20, 2017 09:31 |
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Goon Hive Mind! I come begging assistance once again! The holidays are upon us and this is our first year with a pupper - we're already a massive step ahead thanks to the fact that we both hate poinsettias but I'm trying to mentally prepare for the christmas tree arriving tomorrow. I'm not terribly concerned about him using it as a toilet (he's fully toilet trained and, more importantly, he's an NYC puppy - why would he bother peeing on a tree when there's a whole CITY of trash bags covered in rat and homeless urine right outside his door?), and I figure that we'll make sure the light power cords are safely stowed and all hanging baubles and ornaments are safely hung far above "play time" reach. However, I can guarantee right now that he'll make it his life's mission to drink the tree's water -is this going to be dangerous for him like poinsettia water is? Should I try to jury-rig some kind of tree stand cover? Any other tips for surviving the holiday season without frantic vet visits? (If it helps, Theo is a rat terrier - just past six months (god help us), neutered, and just under 10 pounds. He's a chewing machine and well behaved (so long as it fits into what he feels like doing at the moment). Fortunately, not a food thief (yet), though he's learned how to turn on the anime eyes and convince visitors that we never feed him ever. I include a photo as my offering for assistance - he was basically the whole reason the Thanksgiving Day Parade was a success [because he stayed at home and helped my partner fix dinner by sitting on his feet the entire time] )
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# ? Nov 26, 2017 17:48 |
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We are just past the first week with the puppy, and I think it's going relatively fine. She is 10 weeks old, so I was standing up twice each night to go pee, but on Sunday I didn't hear the alarm go off, and the pupper slept for 6 hours without peeing. During the last couple of days she has only peed inside once, and she has not pooped. So I cut down my night time toilet visits to only once now. Benefits of having a large breed I guess? Which is great because it is 'freeze my balls off' degrees outside right now. She was deathly afraid of cars at first, but after some work, she can now walk along the road without running every time there is a car. We even went and took the bus today. However, I have 2 problems when I am walking her. One is that she is pulling hard on the leash at times, especially when we are returning back to the apartment she can be really pulling all she can, and I am holding the leash with both hands to reduce her pace (and this is with a normal neck collar, haven't bought a harness yet because she will outgrow it so fast). It's kinda scary because it is so icy outside, and I don't always have a good grip with my feet. She is just a puppy, and I don't know if this is something she will eventually grow out of? Is there anything I can or should do to start training her not to pull on the leash? The problem will be unbearable when she is 35kg's adult, I am not going to be able to hold her back in the same way, and I am not sure what to do about it. Second problem is that if I just stand still outside and wait, she goes mental. She has! to go somewhere, if I stand still she goes crazy on the leash. Tries to get out of the leash, pulls, and cries. Again, is this something that a puppy will grow out of on its own? Everything is new, and staying still is boring, and there is always something interesting to smell, so I get she doesn't want to stand still, but she gets really agitated about it. A last issue, which I think I can fix though, is crate training. I tried putting her in the travel crate, which is not an open crate, but I do not think that is an issue. She is not afraid of it, and she goes in there to eat a treat if I put one there, however if I close the door to the cage she immediately get's really anxious, cries and tries to find the exit. I guess I have to just force her to stay in there for longer and longer with the door closed? I need to get her ready for the 1 hour flight we will be doing in less than a month. I don't want her to hate the crate though, so I don't like forcing her to stay in there against her will. Thank you for any help.
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# ? Nov 28, 2017 22:55 |
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you sound like you are doing everything ok. but yeah just wrap a sheet or towel around the tree thingy if you you dont have a tree skirt, i mean i dont think its harmful but a dry tree is a bad thing. Acidian posted:lots of words cold person. durable leash and maybe walk on the grass or hell throw some boots on if you have snow but you are teaching your puppo to walk you currently. if you can get a puppy to heel youll be a magical dog trainer but you can usually get em to stop struggling with you with some positive initial reinforcement. your puppy is a babby. this is all normal.
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# ? Nov 28, 2017 23:09 |
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sneakyfrog posted:cold person. Yes, at first the dog was walking me, I was not walking her. I now take more charge and decide where to go, but also trying to let her stop and sniff things on the way. However, when we go home, when she meets other dogs, sometimes she will smell something and want to follow it, or people, then she really starts pulling on the leash. She wont even look at a treat at that point. I tried giving her some treats when walking, but the problem is that she is usually way to distracted to even notice I am there. I am currently teaching my puppy to sit using a clicker and treats, she doesn't have a full grasp on it yet, and it feels like she doesn't "sit" on command, she has just learned that if I am dangling a treat, she can sit to get it. I assume it takes a few weeks to train a command, and even then I don't think she will respond to it outside, because there is just way too much going on. Yes, she is a baby, which is why I don't know if I am suppose to just tolerate it until she grows up, then be more strict, or if this will teach her now that pulling is ok, and it will be harder to train her later. I read that in a group of adult dogs, the adults will be very patient and tolerate most of puppy behavior until they are grown up?
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# ? Nov 29, 2017 12:08 |
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Acidian, here's some links to youtubers I trust and articles by them on dog walking. http://www.simpawtico-training.com/loose-leash-walking-101/#prettyPhoto https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjBg5Nlx1HM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YcJEQ8p7uNs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFgtqgiAKoQ <---this Kikopup one is really useful As for puppy behavior - I'm of the opinion that you should try to instill good habits into your dogs early, with more tolerance for learning mistakes because, well, puppy. But I'm not a professional, so watch the videos and listen to sneakyfrog.
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# ? Nov 29, 2017 12:30 |
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Acidian posted:Yes, at first the dog was walking me, I was not walking her. I now take more charge and decide where to go, but also trying to let her stop and sniff things on the way. However, when we go home, when she meets other dogs, sometimes she will smell something and want to follow it, or people, then she really starts pulling on the leash. She wont even look at a treat at that point. That said, puppies don't have the attention span to learn this properly, so you'll have to allow some pulling sometimes. But get a harness to prevent her from ruining her neck (I have no idea why people are still using collars anyway, beyond 'it's what we've used for hundreds of years'). You can still give her treats when she's walking along nicely though, or maybe call her name every now and then and give here a treat when she looks. Acidian posted:I am currently teaching my puppy to sit using a clicker and treats, she doesn't have a full grasp on it yet, and it feels like she doesn't "sit" on command, she has just learned that if I am dangling a treat, she can sit to get it. I assume it takes a few weeks to train a command, and even then I don't think she will respond to it outside, because there is just way too much going on. Acidian posted:I read that in a group of adult dogs, the adults will be very patient and tolerate most of puppy behavior until they are grown up? Honestly I'd advice you to take some training classes, get one from a properly trained instructor (behavioral expert or something). It's fun and you'll freak out less.
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# ? Nov 29, 2017 12:39 |
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Martian Manfucker posted:Gonna talk about this anyway and hope a someone can sympathize. Quoting from a few pages back to give an update on my dog. I took the threads advice and stressed to my vet that I wanted to get her spayed ASAP to see if the that had any effect on her blood sugars. She wasn't comfortable doing the surgery herself, or even sure if we should that soon, but said she would call some specialists and get their opinions. Got a call the next day that the internist she spoke to recommended an immediate spay, and that she had a vet on staff who had done lots of emergency/high risk surgeries and was very comfortable doing Roxy's. The day of the surgery, even after a 12 hour fast, her blood glucose was still 20+ mmol/L. Left her at the vets and when I went back later that afternoon to pick her up she had dropped to 12! I had never ever seen her below 20 since starting this whole thing so that was a huge win. Granted she spiked back up to 20+ that night after getting some food in her, but still. She recovered slow from surgery, but never had any trouble eating or drinking, thankfully. It's been about 3 weeks since the spay and I'm actually seeing single digits in some of her readings, now. I'm still working with the vet(s) to find the right amount of insulin and feeding schedule that'll keep her sugar spikes in the teens, but we're getting there. The vet who did her surgery was so great, and has kept in touch with me to see how she is doing. He even thinks that she has a good chance of resolving this whole diabetes thing on her own, which would be amazing. The only thing I'm having trouble with right now is keeping Roxy out of the cat's food. We have some mousers in the barn who get fed outside and she's finding a new way to get at their food every few days, messing up her blood sugar. Anyway, thanks for the advice, thread! Things are looking way more hopeful for Roxy these days.
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# ? Nov 29, 2017 20:48 |
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# ? Nov 29, 2017 20:53 |
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amotea posted:Get a harness and just stand still and hold the leash tight when she's pulling. The idea is that she must learn that pulling doesn't get here anywhere (how it works is that they essentially reward themselves by getting to where they want to go, e.g. the tree or interesting scent is the reward). Thanks, I will try this. She can get really distressed though, and devolves into her fighting to get the harness off. I bought a harness after work, I was stressing out about her neck and the long term effects of going full speed and force stopped at the neck. It doesn't fit as well as I would have liked, but it's adjustable so she can grow in it. I feel alot more confident on fighting her leash pulling now. I have been showing her the treat, she doesn't seem to want to sit unless she knows the reward is ready, I will work on getting her to do it without seeing it, thanks. I want to get some training classes in January, when they start up. I think it's a good idea. I did watch some videos from sympawtico and Zak George, and I bought some books too. It's alot to learn. Thanks goons!
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# ? Nov 29, 2017 23:54 |
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Martian Manfucker posted:The only thing I'm having trouble with right now is keeping Roxy out of the cat's food. We have some mousers in the barn who get fed outside and she's finding a new way to get at their food every few days, messing up her blood sugar. Anyway, thanks for the advice, thread! Things are looking way more hopeful for Roxy these days. Awesome!
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# ? Nov 30, 2017 01:07 |
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Sorry if this has been covered recently but our puppy (rat terrier dachshund mix) is reaching adulthood and we were looking for a chew that she would like. She doesn’t seem to care for rawhide much and my wife thinks she has too hard a bite for antlers, any suggestions?
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# ? Dec 1, 2017 00:49 |
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numerrik posted:Sorry if this has been covered recently but our puppy (rat terrier dachshund mix) is reaching adulthood and we were looking for a chew that she would like. She doesn’t seem to care for rawhide much and my wife thinks she has too hard a bite for antlers, any suggestions? Have you looked at nylabone stuff? I got one of their textured rings for my 40lb husky/gsd mix and it's perfect. I know that's a different size from yours, but nylabone's a good brand, look at what they got. Also kong!
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# ? Dec 1, 2017 00:51 |
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seconded with nylabone, but keep in mind you have to keep an eye on that stuff for wear and for your doggos teeth
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# ? Dec 1, 2017 00:58 |
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My terrier mix (maybe rat terrier/whippet?) also loves the nylabones. PetCo had a buy 2 get one free sale this week and I got my dogs 3 different shapes to chew on. I'm convinced their favorite is whichever one the other dog is currently playing with. They do seem to like the ones with more texture better than the smooth ones.
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# ? Dec 1, 2017 01:23 |
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Hi dog goons - my partner and I are trying to acclimate our two dogs with her sister's dog. Our little schnauzer/pug mix (Melvin) is totally fine, and couldn't care less if sister's dog (Hodor) is around. The problem is our hound mix (Tasha). It's not necessarily that they're aggressive toward each other, it just seems like the process is 1) Tasha tries to play by barking and moving forward, 2) Hodor sees that as aggression and freaks out, 3) everybody's freaking out. One time this led to a small fight we had to break up, though I think that was over some food. My question is - what are some tips for getting two dogs to just... chill around each other? There's a chance we're all going to be living in the same house soon, so our plan is to work on Tasha's place training, and try a sleepover or two at sister's house so the dogs can sleep and wake up in the same area and hopefully get used to being in the same space. Count Thrashula fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Dec 1, 2017 |
# ? Dec 1, 2017 19:54 |
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amotea posted:Get a harness and just stand still and hold the leash tight when she's pulling. The idea is that she must learn that pulling doesn't get here anywhere (how it works is that they essentially reward themselves by getting to where they want to go, e.g. the tree or interesting scent is the reward). Been doing this for 2 days, and I am already noticing a good change in her leash behavior. Whenever she starts pulling, I stop and walk the opposite direction. She is definitely not pulling as much now, and I also notice that she glances towards me from time to time when walking to see where I am. Being more assertive in where we are walking has also helped allot. Thanks! Realizing that leash pulling is a self reinforcing behavior was a big help. I have also been giving treats when she looks at me when I say her name outside, and I have been doing it in situations where she is a bit unsure and distracted too. Seems to work well, I think she is a pretty smart, if nervous, doggo. Everything is going pretty well right now. My only pressing issue currently is that she barks allot when meeting other dogs, so far the ones I have met have been extremely well behaved and tolerant towards her barking, but she is clearly afraid and unsure of herself, and the barking is a response to fear. When she gets to smell the other dogs, she is usually fine pretty fast, but when they leave she starts crying and pulling on the leash because she wants to play. Is this behavior that will solve itself when she grows older and becomes more sure of herself? I feel I need to socialize her more with other dogs, but I am not sure how. We are going to a puppy meet tomorrow, which is organized by my veterinary, and I hope that will help a little.
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# ? Dec 2, 2017 00:05 |
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numerrik posted:Sorry if this has been covered recently but our puppy (rat terrier dachshund mix) is reaching adulthood and we were looking for a chew that she would like. She doesn’t seem to care for rawhide much and my wife thinks she has too hard a bite for antlers, any suggestions? Kongs are pretty great. Nylabone kills dogs so don't get that trash. Don't do rawhide either. Does the pup like ice? Because you can make some really cool ice bars for dogs. Carrots are a huge popular thing too.
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# ? Dec 2, 2017 00:23 |
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Acidian posted:My only pressing issue currently is that she barks allot when meeting other dogs, so far the ones I have met have been extremely well behaved and tolerant towards her barking, but she is clearly afraid and unsure of herself, and the barking is a response to fear. When she gets to smell the other dogs, she is usually fine pretty fast, but when they leave she starts crying and pulling on the leash because she wants to play. Is this behavior that will solve itself when she grows older and becomes more sure of herself? I feel I need to socialize her more with other dogs, but I am not sure how. We are going to a puppy meet tomorrow, which is organized by my veterinary, and I hope that will help a little. But yeah you definitely want your dog to socialize with a couple of dogs off-leash every day. I guess ask the local dog owners where they're allowed off-leash and play and stuff. This will also help to build confidence. The barking thing is self-rewarding as well btw, the reward is that the other dogs will inevitably walk away (because their owners are passing you with their dog) and your dog will think it's because he barked them away. However, I'm not sure puppies think this way yet, perhaps he just wants their attention or is unsure how to behave.
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# ? Dec 2, 2017 00:39 |
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Fluffy Bunnies posted:Kongs are pretty great. Nylabone kills dogs so don't get that trash. Don't do rawhide either. Does the pup like ice? Because you can make some really cool ice bars for dogs. Carrots are a huge popular thing too. bunnies i dont want to give out poo poo advice whats the deal with nylabones?
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# ? Dec 2, 2017 00:48 |
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sneakyfrog posted:bunnies i dont want to give out poo poo advice whats the deal with nylabones? Echoing this - Apollo loves his nylabone and I don't want to accidentally hurt him
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# ? Dec 2, 2017 00:55 |
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http://abcnews.go.com/GMA/AmazingAnimals/dog-proof-good-bad-toys-pooch/story?id=126161 "dogs with sharp teeth" so like, all dogs basically. they're basically plexiglass for your dog's intestines when they start shucking off bits of it so I never suggest them just because I've seen too many dogs get sick.
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# ? Dec 2, 2017 00:59 |
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Fluffy Bunnies posted:http://abcnews.go.com/GMA/AmazingAnimals/dog-proof-good-bad-toys-pooch/story?id=126161 "dogs with sharp teeth" so like, all dogs basically. they're basically plexiglass for your dog's intestines when they start shucking off bits of it so I never suggest them just because I've seen too many dogs get sick. oh, i really havent had a problem with them if you pay attention and promptly replace them when they start loving em up. not much else holds up to the heavy chewers for long.
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# ? Dec 2, 2017 01:03 |
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sneakyfrog posted:oh, i really havent had a problem with them if you pay attention and promptly replace them when they start loving em up. not much else holds up to the heavy chewers for long. yeah the problem is that they can find a cleavage point and destroy themselves out of nowhere. I don't give a poo poo what ya do, but they ain't good.
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# ? Dec 2, 2017 01:37 |
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# ? May 26, 2024 07:34 |
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Fluffy Bunnies posted:yeah the problem is that they can find a cleavage point and destroy themselves out of nowhere. I don't give a poo poo what ya do, but they ain't good. do you have a good suggestion for heavy chewing big dogs maybe oh charming helpful pet poster?
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# ? Dec 2, 2017 01:40 |