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loving poo poo, I was hoping I was missing something and didn't really have to pull the door off but nope, there are screws holding the panel in on the inside of the door trim. Edit: fixed, finally. Ripped the plastic rocker part off and went on with life. Ebay replacement coming eventually then I get to do it all over again. 
Parts Kit fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Nov 28, 2017 |
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Nov 28, 2017 03:34
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Hed posted:I am going to replace the plugs and some other maintenance on my 2011 Ford Edge 3.5L V6. Is this anti-seize acceptable for my plugs? Don't use anti seize on spark plugs, unless they're old school black plugs (which you'll only find on lawn equipment and low end generators, power washing equipment, etc these days - you shouldn't find them in a car engine). Modern plugs are already coated with an anti-seize plating. Using anti-seize on them will let you put a lot more torque on them than you actually need, which can cause fun issues down the road (like the threads pulling out of the head, a plug deciding to exit on its own, etc). Just make sure you do the plugs with the engine cold, and if the plug isn't threading easily, back it out and start over so you don't cross-thread it. Ideally use a torque wrench, but if you don't have one, the spark plugs that have a crush washer generally need 1/8 to 1/3 of a turn beyond finger tight (CHECK YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL). If they're taper-fit (no crush washer), it's usually 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn past finger tight. They're already something you shouldn't hulk out on, but adding anti-seize makes it a lot easier to hulk smash without trying. If totalnewbie sees this, he's worked for a company that actually makes plugs, and will have much more accurate info as to why you never use anti-seize on plugs. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Nov 28, 2017 |
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Nov 28, 2017 09:38
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I have an eye on a set of steelies/winter tires for my car ('99 avalon). The wheels were on a '06 Mazda 6. The bolt pattern is the same, but the center bore size is different between the Avalon (60.1mm) and the 6 (67.1mm - though I have no idea what the steelies are). Does it matter as long as the hub diameter of the wheel is larger than what I have?
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Nov 28, 2017 14:43
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dreesemonkey posted:I have an eye on a set of steelies/winter tires for my car ('99 avalon). The wheels were on a '06 Mazda 6. The bolt pattern is the same, but the center bore size is different between the Avalon (60.1mm) and the 6 (67.1mm - though I have no idea what the steelies are). Does it matter as long as the hub diameter of the wheel is larger than what I have? Yes it matters, the hub is what centers the wheel not the lugs. You will need hub centering rings.
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Nov 28, 2017 15:02
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rdb posted:Yes it matters, the hub is what centers the wheel not the lugs. You will need hub centering rings. Ok thanks so I'd need rings and lug nuts. Can you/anyone tell what type I'd need from this picture or would I just have to figure that out when I got them? (lug nuts, not rings) 
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Nov 28, 2017 15:57
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They won’t work that easily. Hub centering rings allow you to put a wheel with a center hub that’s too big onto a smaller hub on your car, but you’re trying to go the other way. You can sometimes find adapters that will let that work, but it’d also act as a spacer that pushes your wheels outward.
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Nov 28, 2017 16:33
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smax posted:They won’t work that easily. Hub centering rings allow you to put a wheel with a center hub that’s too big onto a smaller hub on your car, but you’re trying to go the other way. You can sometimes find adapters that will let that work, but it’d also act as a spacer that pushes your wheels outward. I don't think so. My car, '99 avalon has a smaller hub bore (60.1mm). The wheels were on a 06 mazda 6 which had a larger stock hub bore (67.1), and maybe those even had centering rings on it so the steel wheels may have an even larger bore yet.
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Nov 28, 2017 16:52
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Don't use anti seize on spark plugs, unless they're old school black plugs (which you'll only find on lawn equipment and low end generators, power washing equipment, etc these days - you shouldn't find them in a car engine). Modern plugs are already coated with an anti-seize plating. Using anti-seize on them will let you put a lot more torque on them than you actually need, which can cause fun issues down the road (like the threads pulling out of the head, a plug deciding to exit on its own, etc). I still work here! You're absolutely right about not using anti-seize. Thanks! And yes, you're right that it fucks with the tightening torque. What happens is that your tightening torque goes DOWN but your thread engagement stays the same. So in addition to the other things you've mentioned, when you tighten it to the same torque, you could have turned it way more than you should have. This causes the metal shell/threads to elongate and can cause an internal crack in the spark plug (you've literally pulled the spark plug apart along its axis) and misfires. 
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Nov 28, 2017 17:15
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dreesemonkey posted:I don't think so. My car, '99 avalon has a smaller hub bore (60.1mm). The wheels were on a 06 mazda 6 which had a larger stock hub bore (67.1), and maybe those even had centering rings on it so the steel wheels may have an even larger bore yet. Deep, I read it and got the cars mixed up. Something like this should work: https://www.amazon.com/Hubcentric-Rings-Pack-Hubrings-Centerbore/dp/B00AAOEPD4 Be sure to also check wheel width and offset (not sure if you’ll have issues there).
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Nov 28, 2017 20:24
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Can someone help me confirm or deny if a 95 blue Ford Taurus 3L has a starter relay in addition to the solenoid on the actual starter motor? There is a procedure in the Haynes for testing the circuits, but it shows a separate relay on the diagram. I cannot find a starter relay inside the engine compartment. If I follow the S-wire from the starter it just goes into the wiring harness with everything else, not to a relay. So there is no relay right, and it's just the solenoid? I have followed these instructions: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/3.0L-3.8L/how-to-test-the-starter-motor-1 http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/3.0L-3.8L/how-to-test-the-starter-motor-2 In part one I registered like 10.5 volts. In part two I registered around .05 volts. I tried the whole "hit the starter with something hard" method, and sometimes after hitting it a few times with a pipe, it almost turned over. Other than that it just clicks. I think the starter is bad, but the person helping me thinks we need to check the relay but I don't think it has one. Edit: There is also no relay for sale for the 95 3l Taurus.
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Nov 29, 2017 01:07
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thylacine posted:Can someone help me confirm or deny if a 95 blue Ford Taurus 3L has a starter relay in addition to the solenoid on the actual starter motor? Those Taureses (Tauri?) use a Constant Control Relay Module for all the relays, so there is no individual starter relay. The CCRM is just to the right of the battery. It should have a big white label on it. You have to replace the whole thing at once. Edit: Now with picture! 
Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Nov 29, 2017 |
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Nov 29, 2017 01:31
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Thanks for all the spark plug tips guys! I will just put them in dry, using my socket and tightening by hand then finally using my torque wrench to the 15 N-m spec.
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Nov 29, 2017 01:40
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Deteriorata posted:Those Taureses (Tauri?) use a Constant Control Relay Module for all the relays, so there is no individual starter relay. The CCRM is just to the right of the battery. It should have a big white label on it. You have to replace the whole thing at once. Cool, I saw that thing and figured it had too many wires to just be a starter relay. Thanks.
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Nov 29, 2017 02:46
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thylacine posted:Can someone help me confirm or deny if a 95 blue Ford Taurus 3L has a starter relay in addition to the solenoid on the actual starter motor? It does sound like either the starter or relay. However, 10.5 volts... that battery either has been sitting a long time, or is hosed. You want to see at LEAST 12 volts on a car battery that's been sitting a bit, ideally 12.3-12.7 (engine off). Was that measuring at the battery terminals, or grounding to the engine? If it was at the terminals, that battery be d-e-d (might be able to charge it though). If you were grounding to the engine, try re-checking at the battery. If it goes up significantly, you have a bad ground connection to the engine. If you're getting clicking at the starter itself (i.e. the solenoid is clicking - it's a loud click, sometimes almost a clunk), your starter relay is working fine. The starter relay would be barely audible if you had your head under the hood.
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Nov 29, 2017 09:46
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I've looked around a bit on this and it's like a splinter in my brain. I must find out. TL;DR: Why don't we bleed brakes furthest to closest caliper on modern cars anymore? Or rather, what is so special about the ABS/VSC systems that make it different? Okay so I've been bleeding brakes furthest caliper to closest since I've been bleeding brakes. I've also been chasing mushy pedal on my 2011 Honda Fit Sport since I started boiling the fluid and then changing to Wilwoods. I haven't had a chance to try it yet, but apparently I am to bleed this car starting at the LF corner and then go around clockwise. I have a new can of Type 200 on the way now. I'll follow the service manual, Honda engineers are (hopefully) smarter folks than I, but my question is: Why do I need to bleed this way? I'm assuming it's something to do with the ABS/VSC system but I'll be darned if I can puzzle it out on my own and apparently nobody else on the internet shares my nagging curiosity. I'm sure we have some Honda master techs or automotive engineers floating around here. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 09:57 on Nov 29, 2017 |
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Nov 29, 2017 09:49
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Can anyone recommend a Service Manual for a 2014 Hyundai Accent? Hayne's doesn't have one and the only ones I've seen on eBay are digital files of probably dubious provenance.
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Nov 29, 2017 12:36
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:It does sound like either the starter or relay. That 10.5 volts was measured from the S wire terminal on the starter to ground. The battery voltage from the battery terminals is around 12.7.
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Nov 29, 2017 14:34
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thylacine posted:That 10.5 volts was measured from the S wire terminal on the starter to ground. The battery voltage from the battery terminals is around 12.7. So the 10.5 was while cranking? Typically a good battery won't drop below 11 cranking, but it's kinda borderline. If it's drawing enough current to pull the voltage that low, that also means everything in the chain up to and including the solenoid is probably working fine. An induction ammeter would be a good way to verify this but those tend to be pricey. Does the car crank fine if you hook up jump leads to another car? If so it's almost certainly a dying battery, if not it's probably a bad starter.
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Nov 29, 2017 14:50
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Whats the deal with Jalopnik vs AI? I see people posting links every now and then and being all "I know its juhlupnich, but check this out" or whatever. I get their articles in my email, and while occasionally there is one that is kinda crappy or boring I usually learn something, or at least get entertained for 15 minutes or so.
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Nov 29, 2017 20:49
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Jalopnik is why Doug Demuro is popular, and they're even more prone to fetishizing things than the AI Hivemind. I still keep them in feedly because why the gently caress not, though.
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Nov 29, 2017 21:25
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Jalopnik is fine as long as you don't take it seriously. Treat it like a blog, not a serious news source. Same goes for all the associated sites - Gizmodo, Deadspin, and the rest. Generally poor quality as journalism, but sometimes individual articles are interesting.
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Nov 29, 2017 21:30
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Do Toyotas use dexcool? 06 Scion xA and google is telling me either "yes, only dexcool" and "never any dexcool" in about equal numbers
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Nov 29, 2017 21:31
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The Door Frame posted:Do Toyotas use dexcool? 06 Scion xA and google is telling me either "yes, only dexcool" and "never any dexcool" in about equal numbers No, they use toyota red (you dilute) or pink (pre dilute). Zerex asian formula also works. I think its phosphated organic acid where dexcool is just organic acid.
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Nov 29, 2017 21:37
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rdb posted:No, they use toyota red (you dilute) or pink (pre dilute). Zerex asian formula also works. I think its phosphated organic acid where dexcool is just organic acid. Ok, that means put in standard antifreeze?
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Nov 29, 2017 21:40
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No, don’t. I would seek out the zerex asian, I have found it at walmart and O’Reillys. Its not that expensive. E: green is “inorganic acid technology”, dexcool is “organic acid technology” and toyota/honda use “phosphated organic acid technology”. IAT, OAT, and POAT. There is also yellow g-05, and BMW/Hyundai blue, not sure what those are. rdb fucked around with this message at 21:52 on Nov 29, 2017 |
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Nov 29, 2017 21:47
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rdb posted:No, don’t. I would seek out the zerex asian, I have found it at walmart and O’Reillys. Its not that expensive. Ok, thank you. As much as I don't want to turn the coolant into sludge, I don't want to buy a $30-40 bottle jug of coolant from Toyota
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Nov 29, 2017 21:51
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The Door Frame posted:Ok, thank you. As much as I don't want to turn the coolant into sludge, I don't want to buy a $30-40 bottle jug of coolant from Toyota Its $12 a jug from walmart. Looks like they changed the packaging since I last changed coolant. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-Asian-Vehicle-Antifreeze-Ready-To-Use-1-Gallon/49660461
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Nov 29, 2017 21:55
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On the front end, I'll admit I'm a little frustrated and pissed off with this situation. 06 F150 4.2l V6 The "Passenger Airbag Off" LED quit working in my dash (not instrument cluster). I'm not sure what was up with it, it looks fine. Monday I decided to unhook the battery, pull the center dash off and verify that the light and connector look fine. I did not check the other connectors up under the dash (probably should have, but oh well). Looks fine, nothing looks fried. I put it all back together and I wait until my timer says ten minutes have passed. I wanted to have the battery disconnected at least 10 minutes to clear out the airbag code. Why? The airbag light in my instrument cluster has just burned out and I don't want it chiming at me. Well, anyway, I reconnect the battery and start the truck. Well, gently caress the airbag light. I don't know what it's problem is and I don't frankly care. It isn't fixed, but now my truck runs like poo poo. Twice now I've run the relearn idle procedure I found on the internet: 1: Let engine reach operating temp 2: Engage parking brake, let idle 1 minute 3: Turn on AC, let idle 1 minute 4: Release parking brake, put foot on brake, put vehicle in drive, and let idle with the AC on. 5: Some vehicles may need you to drive at least 10 miles, so I did. I've driven it to and from work today in addition to the 10+ miles last night. Idles in park fine, runs fine as long as I'm moving (although I think my gas mileage might be shittier), but if I stop it drops to 500rpm and acts like it's going to die, or dies. Now, I have a hard time believing that the IAC just so happened to die at the same time as I'm doing all of this. In fact, I think that's a lovely theory and refuse to believe it. That being said, I figure it being gunked up or even bad is causing this. That or a MAF/MAP sensor. What's the best way to clean a IAC valve? And, I suppose, a MAF sensor - I know there is a specific cleaner for this one, but don't know how to use it. In the interest of full disclosure, my brake and ABS light are also on. Not sure what's up with the brake light, I think the fluid is just funky and needs changing, which I've not gotten around to. The ABS light is a bad wheel speed sensor, which I was planning to order Monday night until all this other fuckery happened. I only mention these in the event that somehow they're preventing the computer from properly starting the relearn idle process.
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Nov 30, 2017 00:31
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Have you hooked a scanner up to it? You will really need to look at some data pid’s to solve this one. When you disconnected the battery it also reset fuel trims, they may have been compensating for a different problem.
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Nov 30, 2017 00:39
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I had Advance pull codes (CEL came on and I unhooked the battery and did the relearn procedure again yesterday, forgot that). They wouldn't let me walk out with the reader, so I'll have to visit my former store and borrow theirs. What would I be looking for?
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Nov 30, 2017 01:19
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Long term and short term fuel trims bank 1 and 2, any related to idle air valve, commanded idle speed vs actual, pending codes, if its bi directional scanner you may be able to mess with IAC position, maybe cam phaser position (not sure if the V6 has them). Your mainly looking for signs of a vacuum leak or funky sensor signal. Maybe the EGR valve is stuck open. Drivability is the hardest issue to diagnose. Ebay and amazon are full of $10 bluetooth obd2 scanners and there is an app called torque for android. I would purchase both, it will give you plenty of time and a chance to look at data under different conditions. The local O’Reilly uses the same scanner I have, some $350 bosch thing I bought in a pinch, the $10 bluetooth adapter and $5 torque app were hands down better. For cleaning MAF sensors there is a special spray, advance should have it. Regular carb cleaner works for IAC passages.
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Nov 30, 2017 01:32
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Great! I ordered an OBD2 reader from Amazon and have TorquePro on my phone. In the meantime, I'll see about cleaning the IAC and see where that gets me. E: I ordered this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJPHEBO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which states it works with Torque Pro and had decent reviews. briefcasefullof fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Nov 30, 2017 |
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Nov 30, 2017 02:03
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Long story short, I ended up hitting one of those orange circular, empty construction barrels/drums on the right side of my Corvette. All but maybe 10% of the marks just came off when I used my hand to wipe it off, but that last 10% is what I assume is orange paint transfer (although I'm not sure they 'paint' those things?) and it isn't coming off with just water, rag and vigorous rubbing. I've been reading and watching videos online; some people say to get Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and try that, others (on a Corvette forum) say to get bug and tar remover and that it works. Still others say toothpaste would work. I'm not sure which to believe, so I figured I'd ask some fellow goons. Any ideas? MarksMan fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Nov 30, 2017 |
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Nov 30, 2017 02:09
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HOOOO NELLY. So it turned out that my shocks were almost completely squish. So, the Bilsteins might have been overkill, but AINT NO KILL LIKE OVERKILL when it comes to ride comfort and not rattling over poor roads.
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Nov 30, 2017 03:00
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MarksMan posted:Long story short, I ended up hitting one of those orange circular, empty construction barrels/drums on the right side of my Corvette. All but maybe 10% of the marks just came off when I used my hand to wipe it off, but that last 10% is what I assume is orange paint transfer (although I'm not sure they 'paint' those things?) and it isn't coming off with just water, rag and vigorous rubbing. I've been reading and watching videos online; some people say to get Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and try that, others (on a Corvette forum) say to get bug and tar remover and that it works. Still others say toothpaste would work. Bug & Tar remover or WD-40, and some microfiber cloths you don't care about. You'll need to wash and wax it afterwards, as both will strip the wax.
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Nov 30, 2017 04:17
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Suspect Bucket posted:HOOOO NELLY. So it turned out that my shocks were almost completely squish. So, the Bilsteins might have been overkill, but AINT NO KILL LIKE OVERKILL when it comes to ride comfort and not rattling over poor roads. Having finally put Bilsteins on my WJ... Bilsteins are always worth it.
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Nov 30, 2017 04:37
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Hello. 2008 Chevy Cobalt, trying to put the engine fuse box lid back onto the box. The coolant hose from the resevoir tank is in the way, however. I am trying to pry the hose back with a screwdriver, but mixing sharp points with that hose doesn't seem to be a good idea. The lid is almost lined up, but it hits the loving hose. Should I just pry back as hard as I can and slam the lid down?
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Nov 30, 2017 04:42
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I'm getting a new Nissan Rogue S model (base model, no options) as a company car and I'm wondering if there's anything non permanent I can do to make it a nicer place to be? I'm guessing there's nothing I can do about how slow it is without jeopardizing warranties etc. Any little miscellaneous items that can make a car feel less like an appliance?
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Nov 30, 2017 08:49
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Twat McTwatterson posted:2008 Chevy Cobalt, trying to put the engine fuse box lid back onto the box. The coolant hose from the resevoir tank is in the way, however. I am trying to pry the hose back with a screwdriver, but mixing sharp points with that hose doesn't seem to be a good idea. The lid is almost lined up, but it hits the loving hose. Should I just pry back as hard as I can and slam the lid down? That hose should be pretty flexible. But worst case, with a cool engine and the cap removed, just remove the hose from the tank. It's held on by a clamp that you can remove with pliers - pull the clamp back a couple of inches (you should be able to feel when it slips all the way off of the plastic nipple), twist the hose a bit to break it free (may need to use the pliers to do this, if you do, clamp them close to the tank and don't use much pressure, just enough to twist the hose on the nipple), remove it from the tank by hand. The upper hose should be well above the coolant level in the tank.
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Nov 30, 2017 11:19
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Bug & Tar remover or WD-40, and some microfiber cloths you don't care about. Thanks, some Turtle Wax Bug and Tar Remover worked.
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Nov 30, 2017 14:02
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