|
quote:Hope my paintingtisms are helpful. It was, thanks a tonne! I shall repay the thread with some converted Exodite Rangers as soon as the bases dry.
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2017 08:46
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 13:20 |
|
|
So here are my space elfs. Sorry about the cell phone camera footage. The Farseer variations are made using the spare Yncarne bits and a Sister of Silence head. I got three of 'em from the Start Collecting boxes I'm using as the core of my force and I didn't want three dudes looking exactly the same. I think they turned out really well - even the one I unbelievably hosed up and barely managed to salvage after hours of additional work!   And here are the Exodite Rangers! Someone on these forums mentioned converting some Shadow Warriors from Fantasy to use as Rangers and it works amazingly. I used spare AdMech galvanic rifles because that's what I had but I think they look really sweet.     A preview picture of my upcoming Wraithknight. I swore like a sailor while assembling this bastard, particularly at a point when I realized I'd completely hosed up the torso joining and basically needed to pull the entire thing apart and start over. But in the end I wrestled her into the pose I wanted and I'm really looking forwards to spending my Christmas break just slogging away at this monster.   Bonus image of my Emperor's Children test model. What's really cool about this model is that from a tabletop distance it looks really smooth and clean, pure white and gold. It's only when you hold it up to your eyes you realize what a loving mess it is and the effect is amazing and perfect for what I want for the EC. Sadly that's pretty much where that army's going to stay until/unless they release new Noise Marines. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2017 10:27
|
|
|
Those blends 
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2017 10:41
|
|
|
Dr. Gargunza posted:Those blends For the capes, Screamer Pink as a base, then Wild Rider red from 1/3 to the left and Xerxes Purple from 1/3 to the right, followed up with Trollslayer Orange 1/5 to the left and Genestealer Purple 1/5 to the right. Then wash over everything EXCEPT the Trollslayer Orange with Druchii violet and it comes out perfectly. I love blending, by the way, I can't get enough of doing it. It's awesome fun.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2017 10:48
|
|
|
dexefiend posted:Not trying to be a dick: have you tried VMC Vermilion + Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver? I haven't yet, but I will! I haven't tried any VMA paints before so wanted to see how they work through the airbrush compared to my thinned stuff. By the way how much flow improver and/or thinner do you typically use?
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2017 11:04
|
|
|
Booyah- posted:I haven't yet, but I will! I haven't tried any VMA paints before so wanted to see how they work through the airbrush compared to my thinned stuff. By the way how much flow improver and/or thinner do you typically use? The Vallejo airbrush flow improver is concentrated magic in a bottle; it only takes a drop for every 5-10 drops of paint. You want your consistency to be close to that of skim milk after adding the improver.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2017 21:35
|
|
|
BULBASAUR posted:bonds0097 has basically got this covered. First you prime, then do your rust layer, then seal it with matte varnish. Then hit it with chipping medium, let it dry, and then your top layer. After that use a damp brush to chip away the layers. After you're happy seal it with matte varnish again and apply another chipping layer, let it dry, and do another top layer. Repeat as many times as you like. This post is OP worthy. Some good poo poo right here.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2017 21:45
|
|
|
Thanks dude. I couldn't help myself and kept going with the panel. Here's how it looked when I started: I then applied an oil filter and pin wash:  Here's where it ran away from me. I overdid the highlights and it drowned out my weathering:  Then I did a layer of pigments which, on a large flat panel, didn't do anything except for muddy the colors and drown out the weathering even more:  I think for my next attempt I'm going to try sponging my chipping layers to bring them back after the oils
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 01:54
|
|
|
I just ordered some chipping fluid to use on my astraeus after your posts. I haven't delved into the world of oil washes and stuff, but hopefully I'll still be able to do something cool
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 01:58
|
|
|
Need some advice on a Fire Dragon I'm working on. I'm loving the scheme that I'm working here but I don't know what to do with the head. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 05:52
|
|
|
Bone that fades to the orange at the crest would look pretty great.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 05:53
|
|
|
Vallejo washes suck balls. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 07:10
|
|
|
Irate Tree posted:Vallejo washes suck balls. Please elaborate. I mostly use them for bases and prefer to make my own washes with flow improver and glaze medium from their inks but the washes work well enough for what i use them for.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 15:09
|
|
|
My experience is actually only minor. I tried using the red wash on a mini and it came up with a really chalky looking effect, which looks like garbage. Especially on a mostly black surface. It's just; i spent a stack of money making the switch from citadel to vallejo, because everyone i spoke to made them sound amazing. You can't control how much paint you want, because half the paints are too fluid to hold tension in the nozzle and end up coating the inside of the cap; i now have to be wary of any wash that i use, because that chalky crap might happen with no reason i know of as to why and there's not even a purple in there! Only in the inks and those act more like a glaze than a wash so they're no use to me and what i'm doing at the moment. /whinge
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 15:35
|
|
|
MasterSlowPoke posted:Bone that fades to the orange at the crest would look pretty great. Are you thinking that the bone fades into the red/orange? Im torn a bit, I thought perhaps I could do the helmet in bone, but I think it'll be too jarring. Also I don't do the gems over bone. The face plate I think can be bone while the rest fades to the crest. Though I'm a bit worried that it'll just be too much. The purple line of gems should help break that a bit...
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 15:39
|
|
|
Irate Tree posted:You can't control how much paint you want, because half the paints are too fluid to hold tension in the nozzle and end up coating the inside of the cap.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 16:20
|
|
|
Ilor posted:You...you know you have to shake them, right? Wow... way to treat me like a dunce. Of course i've been shaking them!
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 16:23
|
|
|
Irate Tree posted:Wow... way to treat me like a dunce. Of course i've been shaking them! When you say, "coats the inside of the cap," what are we talking here? I'm asking stupid questions because I've been using Vallejo paints for a couple of years now and I've literally never seen the problem of not being able to control the dropper flow. As such, I'm having a hard time understanding the issue.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 16:30
|
|
|
That they're leaking out of the nozzle when shaken so paint is getting into the cap. Easiest solution is to shake side to side rather than up and down.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 16:51
|
|
|
At a guess you're screwing the cap on too tight and it's enlarging/splitting the nozzle. Leading to the leakage.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 16:53
|
|
|
I get some paint spooge on the outside of the nozzle on my vallejos. I just hit it with a paper towel. It's rarely enough to mess with the seal but sometimes I have to spear a clog out with a straight pin.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 18:49
|
|
|
I'm trying to do OSL for the first time, but I am really struggling. Any advice on how to make this better?
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 19:23
|
|
|
Mugaaz posted:I'm trying to do OSL for the first time, but I am really struggling. Any advice on how to make this better? Ideally, you want the surface that's being lit to be darker than the light source, so for this guy that would mean darker skin. Paint the area normally, with maybe slightly muted highlights; then build up the lightened area in multiple thin, translucent layers, getting more intense and brighter the closer you get to the light source.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 19:53
|
|
|
Went with a slight compromise MSP, collar and mask bone, helmet is blended. Next step is to accent the helmet gems, eyes, then clean up the mistakes on the black and anywhere the gems bled into the armor plates, wash and touch up the bone areas, then dot the gems and finish. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 20:11
|
|
|
bonds0097 posted:Please elaborate. I mostly use them for bases and prefer to make my own washes with flow improver and glaze medium from their inks but the washes work well enough for what i use them for. My problem with Vallejo washes is that they seem really prone to pooling if you get them on a flat surface.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 20:38
|
|
|
Finished pieces from the last two weeks: Scibor's Snowman Slayer   Reaper's Logan, Dwarf Warlord  
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 21:39
|
|
|
wdarkk posted:My problem with Vallejo washes is that they seem really prone to pooling if you get them on a flat surface.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 22:00
|
|
|
DiHK posted:I get some paint spooge on the outside of the nozzle on my vallejos. I just hit it with a paper towel. It's rarely enough to mess with the seal but sometimes I have to spear a clog out with a straight pin. This is basically whats been happening. I shake the bottle as much as i can, open it up and find a layer of paint on the nozzle and inside the cap. I don't know how you can screw the cap on too tight, since there's not much give to it when it's secure. My only paint experience has been with Citadel and i've never had to shake the ever loving poo poo out of them to get them to work. (and even then, vallejo is still fairly fluid)
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 01:03
|
|
|
I've had the same thing happen with my vallejo paints. At first I just shrugged at it, but then I had the nozzle get stuck inside the cap and pull off of the bottle without me noticing, so when I went to drop out some paint I dumped a third of the bottle on my palette. I don't know if that's a vallejo specific problem, I seem to recall it happening with other dropper bottle brands... Anyway, be sure to wipe off the nozzle and inside of the cap if they start getting to slimy/crusty, fwiw it's usually several months of use before it gets to that point for me.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 01:21
|
|
|
After graduating school last December and having a parent die and my cheap place to live in Denver being sold in less than a month of finishing my undergrad and putting me in a position that I had to move back to Wyoming...I finally got my hobby station made and look forward to making space men and bugs again.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 03:24
|
|
|
I am re-basing everything after finally settling on a theme. Swamp Inquisitors - up next on the Heresy Channel! I am not super happy with the grass, and I think I need to fan it out more, make it less regular, but I'm not entirely sure how to do that.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 05:08
|
|
|
I would consider a black rim. The blue doesn't really do anything for your model, in my opinion. The grass is fine, but I'd cut it much shorter and have each tuft a different height. Just something to consider.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 06:23
|
|
|
Irate Tree posted:This is basically whats been happening. I shake the bottle as much as i can, open it up and find a layer of paint on the nozzle and inside the cap. I don't know how you can screw the cap on too tight, since there's not much give to it when it's secure.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 06:31
|
|
|
BULBASAUR posted:I would consider a black rim. The blue doesn't really do anything for your model, in my opinion. The grass is fine, but I'd cut it much shorter and have each tuft a different height. Just something to consider. Agreed, the blue clashes way too hard.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 06:52
|
|
|
I am surprised at the backlash over the blue, duly noted! At least that's easy enough to fix.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 07:07
|
|
|
Giant Isopod posted:I am re-basing everything after finally settling on a theme. The model is looking dope. What type of grass are you using? It looks like flock. I'm a much bigger fan of static grass and pre-made tufts when I'm lazy.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 07:33
|
|
|
Yellow Can Get hosed. These guys took way longer than I thought. But, I finally got my lightbox set up so figured i'd make a contribution! 
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 10:32
|
|
|
Texmo posted:Yellow Can Get hosed.  Nice lines on them boyz.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 10:48
|
|
|
I participated, but sadly didn't place in a local painting competition. I did however take pictures of all the entries. Here are the winning entries! https://imgur.com/gallery/WEhHL  This knight is one of my favourites and fully deserves its spot  This filthy boi is the one i voted for, out of respect for the painters skills considering he's only 12 years old. full size images are in the linked album.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 13:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 13:20 |
|
|
Texmo posted:Yellow Can Get hosed. These guys took way longer than I thought. Texmo posted:
We're not supposed to see the box. Fantastic models tho. You got the yellow solid. Philthy fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Dec 4, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 16:15
|
|
