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kid sinister posted:They do. I just replaced its O ring too. The old one was so brittle I had to break it off. Well there are 3 fronts and 3 rear. Are you still losing massive amounts or just a leak? Have you checked your oil pressure? E: also its been so long i dont remember did you check the oil pressure sending unit and filter housing for leaks? That part is gonna be pressurised and the oil can be tricky on sensors because it can travel down the wire and look like its coming from somewhere else. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Dec 4, 2017 |
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Dec 4, 2017 02:36
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DogonCrook posted:Well there are 3 fronts and 3 rear. Are you still losing massive amounts or just a leak? Have you checked your oil pressure? I have good pressure, but it's still leaking pretty bad. Before all this started, the oil gauge needle was all over the place, but I replaced the sending unit with a Motorcraft one after a cheap one was stuck past high. Now my pressure shows about 2/3 the way to high. I've been keeping up with topping it off. The oil filter is up front along with the the sending unit. Both are bone dry. I went out and got some UV oil dye. I'm going to do that tomorrow after hosing down the engine as recommended last page. BTW, yes, I know that losing oil can make my pressure go down, but I mean it when I say that the gauge needle was all over hell. The sending unit needed to be replaced. Edit: for the record, oil leak dye is hard to find this time of year. It turns out that it's usually lumped in with AC leak dye, which is a seasonal item. It took me 3 stores to find some along with the glasses and light. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Dec 4, 2017 |
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Dec 4, 2017 04:37
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Checked tires, 32, 30, 30, 28. The one that was 28 was involved in a nasty pothole strike a few days ago, couldn't say if that matters. In other news, my local gas station has new, really nice air pumps with the digital readout and auto pressure cutoff. They also cost $3 to run  Edit: filled all to 36. Cold snap coming tomorrow, they'll drop some. `Nemesis fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Dec 4, 2017 |
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Dec 4, 2017 04:56
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kid sinister posted:I have good pressure, but it's still leaking pretty bad. Before all this started, the oil gauge needle was all over the place, but I replaced the sending unit with a Motorcraft one after a cheap one was stuck past high. Now my pressure shows about 2/3 the way to high. I've been keeping up with topping it off. The pressure would tell you if something is up with the system like a missing plug or a galley leak or cracked block etc. or at least give an idea. E: so its probably not a galley plug. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Dec 4, 2017 |
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Dec 4, 2017 05:33
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`Nemesis posted:The fronts are mismatched garbage with about 40% life left That's a good size - a lot of midsizers have 215s, 205s are skinnier. I don't think there's really a reason to get new tires for a small percentage increase in MPG, because you will be spending more than you save. When those tires get below 20% - I'd get some Yokohama Avid Ascends to replace them. The coopers look like really good tires and very long lasting, but aren't eco-focused. Again, no reason to ditch them for a small percentage increase. Th e mastercraft tire is also made by cooper, probably an older design, but an okay tire. The Mirada is actually a discount brand made by yokohama, but it will wear much quicker than the others. $3 for air is crazy!
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Dec 4, 2017 06:17
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kid sinister posted:I have good pressure, but it's still leaking pretty bad. Before all this started, the oil gauge needle was all over the place, but I replaced the sending unit with a Motorcraft one after a cheap one was stuck past high. Now my pressure shows about 2/3 the way to high. I've been keeping up with topping it off. FYI, the gauge on most F-150s is a glorified idiot light. If it just stays in one place (2/3) while running, you have the glorified idiot light. If it actually moves around with RPM, you have a real gauge. The glorified idiot light stays at 2/3 anytime there's any oil pressure. There's a way to make it work as a proper gauge, but I don't know the specifics.
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Dec 4, 2017 07:04
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0toShifty posted:That's a good size - a lot of midsizers have 215s, 205s are skinnier. I don't think there's really a reason to get new tires for a small percentage increase in MPG, because you will be spending more than you save. When those tires get below 20% - I'd get some Yokohama Avid Ascends to replace them. The coopers look like really good tires and very long lasting, but aren't eco-focused. Again, no reason to ditch them for a small percentage increase. Th e mastercraft tire is also made by cooper, probably an older design, but an okay tire. The Mirada is actually a discount brand made by yokohama, but it will wear much quicker than the others. Alright thanks. Not gonna parts cannon this thing, I'll wait till something more obvious comes up.
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Dec 4, 2017 08:18
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Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove an incredibly stubborn bolt - one where harsh chemicals and extreme heat aren't an option? I have a Torx T50 bolt which holds the front passenger seatbelt to the frame of a Jaguar XK8 Convertible; and of course, it's surrounded by white leather. I need to get into a compartment where this bolt is the last piece preventing me from removing a leather-bound cap. Here's (someone else's) photo of the culprit:  I've been unable to make it budge with a screwdriver, a small-handled wrench, and even a 6-amp corded drill. The driver's side came off with difficulty, but nothing like this. You'd think the thing had been welded in place...
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Dec 4, 2017 14:19
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Is the head stripped out yet? If not, impact tools. Either a manual one that you whack with a hammer, or some form of power impact. If the head is stripped / rounded, drill it out and have a vacuum running to catch the chips.
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Dec 4, 2017 14:43
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The head is not yet stripped; but I really don't want it to get to that point, I have a feeling this bolt is going to be a bitch to replace. I think I'll need to rent an impact wrench or something
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Dec 4, 2017 15:40
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sarcastx posted:The head is not yet stripped; but I really don't want it to get to that point, I have a feeling this bolt is going to be a bitch to replace. Sometimes tapping on it with a hammer will break up the bits of oxidation holding it in place. You can also try some heating/cooling cycles to break it loose. It doesn't look like there's any way to get penetrating oil to it (or that you'd want to try it near the leather).
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Dec 4, 2017 15:44
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I have a 2013 Toyota Camry SE. Yesterday I noticed that the floor of the car was pretty damp under the floormats. The day before I had gone to an automatic car wash with an undercarriage wash, so I'm thinking that may be the cause (though it really shouldn't be coming inside!) I've also been reading it could be the A/C drain hose being clogged or disconnected causing this, though due to the weather I've only been using the heater. Does the heater also put off a lot of condensation? I checked and its every part of the floor, front and rear on both sides.
Spring Heeled Jack fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Dec 4, 2017 |
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Dec 4, 2017 16:09
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Update on my hosed-by-insurance-weirdness Ranger: this morning my mechanic called a tow truck company he knows, which plucked my truck from the horns of this dilemma (probably). Today the front brake rotors and one front wheel bearing will be replaced, and he'll try to install the replacemnt fog lights I bought (a separate tale of my incompentence). That will take care of 5/6 issues preventing me from registering this truck in this province; for the obscured "cyclop" (high-mount centre brake light) I'm going to remove the cap for the re-inspection. The big weird twist in this story is that (most) tow trucks will not pick up a car that does not have valid insurance. There are obvious questions here, like how do they deal with the uninsured vehicles that they must get called to all the drat time? but nobody I've talked to has an answer for that one, yet. I've contacted the provincial motor vehicle department, maybe they will get back to me. My mechanic wanted me to just drive my truck to him, but I pointed out that the police would have very bad things to say to me if anything happened on that 1-km drive; his response included miming picking up the truck under my arm and carrying it to him, but he eventually called la depanneuse - this one was a big flat-bed so my truck was completely off of the ground. When I talked to CAA Quebec (the start of this) they specifically told me that yes, I had the option to request a flat-bed, but no, that makes no difference to the no-insurance rule. In any case, I want to TRY to solve this problem entirely legally if possible (it must be possible, right?). EDIT: That's my stupid question at the end - It must be possible, right? I am hopelessly naive, I know.
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Dec 4, 2017 17:08
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How far does it have to go?
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Dec 4, 2017 17:36
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Godholio posted:How far does it have to go? I *could* take the gamble of driving to the inspection, but I *really* don't want to. My current plan is to have my truck dropped off at my apartment after this work (or, if the mechanic mocks my Anglo cowardice enough, drive it that 1km), and I'll sort out everything else I need to do (take off the cap, double-check all of the lights, book appointments) after I get back from my holidays. I bought this truck in Alberta about 2.5 years ago, and getting it registered in Ontario was much simpler - pretty much any mechanic can do the out-of-province inspection, and do the work needed to make it registerable. The only wrinkle in that process was I had to get my truck weighed - the very nice person at the Service Ontario office gave me directions to the dump, and the dump was happy to tell me my truck's weight for $10. But Quebec is different - I suspect this is an aspect of their "Distinct Society".
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Dec 4, 2017 18:01
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2006 F150, 4.2L V6 Ok. Got TorquePro and a reader. What sensor is going to be the most useful to graph to diagnose stalling? Codes I pulled earlier: Pending P0506 C1296 (ABS sensor I already knew about) U1900 U1950 No idea what the U codes are.
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Dec 4, 2017 18:02
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:FYI, the gauge on most F-150s is a glorified idiot light. If it just stays in one place (2/3) while running, you have the glorified idiot light. If it actually moves around with RPM, you have a real gauge. The glorified idiot light stays at 2/3 anytime there's any oil pressure. It does move around, particularly under acceleration. It just usually settles down to 2/3 when I'm cruising.
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Dec 4, 2017 18:17
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QuarkMartial posted:2006 F150, 4.2L V6 P0506 is key. Idle RPM lower than expected. Most of what I see for Fords suggests removing the throttle body and cleaning it. If that doesn’t fix it look at your fuel trims for evidence of a vacuum leak.
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Dec 4, 2017 19:51
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Oil leak update, 1988 F150 5L: I did the dye test. It's either the very back of the oil pan gasket or the RMS. Now I've replaced the RMS twice now by the book, but I admit that I didn't do a great job with the oil pan gasket back in June. How do I figure out which is the leak? I saw dye in the gap between the plate and oil pan, and barely any up inside the lip on the bottom of the oil pan. That could've been splatter from the exhaust pipe. I also saw a line coming down the inside of the transmission plate. Wait, I'd better dig out my inspection mirror and make sure it's not the back side of the lower intake manifold gasket. You can't see that one without a mirror when everything is back on. edit: I tried tightening the last bolts on either side of the back of the oil pan, still leaks. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Dec 4, 2017 |
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Dec 4, 2017 20:44
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In recuring oil pan leaks id pull it off and make sure the lip is still squareish. I always tap the lip on a block of wood all around and give it a shot at straightening it out or at least inspecting it. If there are any loose bolts itll warp pretty easy some do it no matter what.
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Dec 4, 2017 21:33
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kid sinister posted:It does move around, particularly under acceleration. It just usually settles down to 2/3 when I'm cruising. Congrats on having one of the rare ones! 
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Dec 4, 2017 21:38
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DogonCrook posted:In recuring oil pan leaks id pull it off and make sure the lip is still squareish. I always tap the lip on a block of wood all around and give it a shot at straightening it out or at least inspecting it. If there are any loose bolts itll warp pretty easy some do it no matter what. It's a brand new pan. When I redid the gasket in June, I noticed how rusty the pan was and with how much of a bitch it is to get off, I just replaced it. So what's the verdict? How do I determine if it's the RMS or the oil pan gasket?
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Dec 4, 2017 22:35
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Any tips for removing a stubborn roll pin? I'm trying to replace the steering rack in my Turismo but all of the joints from the column to the rack are connected with slightly rusty and very hard roll pins. The pins are in a difficult to reach spot and I've been unable to get a good swing at any of them with a hammer. Drilling may be possible but it's in a super annoying spot. Edit: As for the brakes they work now, we just had to disconnect all the rubber hoses and let it sit for a week and the fluid started flowing on it's own. Once we had pressure it was just a matter of reattaching new hoses and bleeding. I also got an original owner's manual off ebay which states don't idle the car for more than 5 minutes or drive over 75mph for long or it'll overheat, I think I might want to get an upgraded radiator/fan. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Dec 5, 2017 |
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Dec 5, 2017 04:38
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rdb posted:P0506 is key. Idle RPM lower than expected. Most of what I see for Fords suggests removing the throttle body and cleaning it. This. Probably dirty throttle body. The U codes are canbus network codes, but they aren't useful without knowing exactly which module threw them. Anything acting odd in the truck? Instrument clusters often cause this.
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Dec 5, 2017 05:03
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Sometimes the odometer (digital) goes blank. Remains illuminated, but doesn't display numbers. Brake light and ABS lights are on, airbag light burned out... So any of those 
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Dec 5, 2017 05:56
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A dirty maf would be my bet. That gives the ecu the roughest time and its the hardest for it to calibrate especially idle where a maf is not very accurate. Like a brand new maf cant really measure idle airflow very accurately and no two read the same at idle. It also doesnt take much smog on that wire to completely lose its accuracy down low but by that time the ecu has learned its quirks and has you covered. Reset the memory the maf curve goes to default now you are way off and it has to relearn the curve. Also it can take a couple of idle cycles to learn if its way off. Like full warm up and kill it let it cool fully and doing it again without ever touching the gas. Hell that would probably work now without doing anything the computer would eventually figure this out and settle it down. Basically maf is saying you have x airflow so the ecu is like cool it needs this much gas and then it stumbles and the o2 sensors catch it and then the ecu has to figure out the descrepency and make a minor adjustment and wait for it to happen again. If the maf is so dirty it not registering much difference at low speed or not even consistent itll take a long rear end time for the ecu to avg it out and find an acceptable curve but it will eventually do it. All that is to say you could try a couple warm up cycles and if its improving or goes away its very likely its the maf. If you replace it i always buy at least two. No joke there is a huge variance in how they detect idle so some are naturally going to run better and be sweet on your car and it a night and day difference sometimes. Just return the one you dont use. There is no such thing as a calibrated maf the ecu has to do that work. Two mafs reading wildy different are both technically correct as long as they are consistent. So one will always be out of the box closer to what your car needs than another after a ecu reset. After the car has learned it doesn matter both will function the same but if you reset the ecu a lot its better to have one thats close from the get go.
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Dec 5, 2017 19:07
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Autoexec.bat posted:Any tips for removing a stubborn roll pin? Well, it is a spring. Can you grab it with pliers at all and squeeze?
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Dec 5, 2017 19:52
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Any good resources out there on fixing up scratched paint? Both plastic and metal, going all the way down to said plastic and metal. I'm pretty sure it boils down to "sand it all down, apply primer, paint and clear coat - sanding and feathering in between - wax and buff" but a good picture/video resource really helps as I've never done this myself. I have frankly no idea if I should get a paint can or spray paint and oh god what am I getting myself into. Also, I'd appreciate any suggestions on the following: cigaw posted:Can anyone recommend a Service Manual for a 2014 Hyundai Accent? Hayne's doesn't have one and the only ones I've seen on eBay are digital files of probably dubious provenance.
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Dec 5, 2017 23:15
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Hello stupid questions thread, I have a stupid question. I need to find a part for a 2002 Saturn (LS100 I think) (It's a tiny manual sedan) Anyways, the rear, drivers side turn signal doesn't work, so I when I went to put in a new bulb I found that there's a missing 3 prong socket. Apparently these are super hard to find for 02 saturns in my area? What part do I order for this? Is there a handy guide? Even just a link to what to order would be good. I'm at work now, but if need be I can take pictures as a reference? I am dumb at car.
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Dec 5, 2017 23:53
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Autoexec.bat posted:Any tips for removing a stubborn roll pin? I'm trying to replace the steering rack in my Turismo but all of the joints from the column to the rack are connected with slightly rusty and very hard roll pins. The pins are in a difficult to reach spot and I've been unable to get a good swing at any of them with a hammer. Drilling may be possible but it's in a super annoying spot. Hopefully the proper sized punch? If not available, I've *heard* that you can get a self tapping screw, screw that poo poo in there and hope that it doesn't break off while you try to pull it out with a claw hammer.
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Dec 6, 2017 00:16
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Mezzanon posted:Hello stupid questions thread, I have a stupid question. Do the lights come on when you turn on the hazards?
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Dec 6, 2017 00:19
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kid sinister posted:Well, it is a spring. Can you grab it with pliers at all and squeeze? Gave it a try but no good, my vice grips slip right off and pliers aren't enough. The pin is a good 1/4" across and 2" long with a roughly 2mm hole in the middle. Also gave drilling a try and it killed my bit within a couple mm. I've likely spent a good 6 hours fighting this pin. I have a punch but it started mushrooming on me partway through and the thing didn't budge. I may need to involve fire at this point to at least de-temper it.
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Dec 6, 2017 00:50
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I used to remove dowel pins from blind holes in large industrial gears/rollers. I would grind a notch and use a chisel and a large hammer to drive them out if there was enough exposed to do so. The steel is super hard. Heating to bright white didn’t seem to remove enough of its temper to get a normal drill through. I have a set of expensive cobalt bits somewhere that worked a little. Some I just couldn’t get and sent to the machine shop. Not that it helps your situation but eventually I got purchasing to spend the extra dollars on spiral cut drilled and tapped pins so I could pull them with a slide hammer. E: re-read your original post. Its roll pins your having trouble with, you need a correctly sized roll pin punch. MSC, Grainger, fastenal should have quality ones, but they aren’t cheap. rdb fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Dec 6, 2017 |
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Dec 6, 2017 01:12
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cigaw posted:Any good resources out there on fixing up scratched paint? Both plastic and metal, going all the way down to said plastic and metal. I'm pretty sure it boils down to "sand it all down, apply primer, paint and clear coat - sanding and feathering in between - wax and buff" but a good picture/video resource really helps as I've never done this myself. I have frankly no idea if I should get a paint can or spray paint and oh god what am I getting myself into. If its just scratched you might be able to buff it out. Youtube should have some good videos on how to do so, and how to paint. Keep in mind many trade schools offer certificates in auto body, there is a lot of skill and knowledge that goes into doing it right. It also takes a lot of equipment, like a compressor, sanders, paint booth etc to get good results. As far as the manual goes, try one of the ebay ones, its probably a pirated version of the factory manual. Beats nothing, and haynes.
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Dec 6, 2017 01:24
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Welp, got my starter replaced the other day, but I have a problem that's been going on longer, and that problem is a coolant leak. CAR: 95 Taurus 3 liter, blue, 147k Have replaced the upper radiator tube, thermostat, made sure petcock on drain is tight but the poo poo seems to be coming through the drain. It's like when I shut off the car it spurts a puddle out of the drain. Is this a symptom of something else not working? Like it's building up so much pressure it's just blowing through something? It doesn't happen all the time. I don't get it and it's really annoying to leave a big puddle everywhere. And by big puddle I mean maybe a pancake sized splat right under the radiator drain. Then other times it's just 3-4 drops. The thing is if I fill up the reservoir it'll keep spurting it out until it's almost to the bottom--which makes one think that maybe something at that level is leaking but I don't know what the hell it could be. It's definitely not the water pump because it's on the other side of the car. The actual amount of coolant in the radiator seems fine and the car never overheats--it seems to just empty from the reservoir sometimes. I've got under there with a UV light and first found a drop coming from the upper hose, so I tightened that, (and eventually replaced the hose.) There was also some around the drain. I even broke down and tried putting some Bar's stop leaking poo poo in it which seemed to work for a few days but today I went somewhere and when I came back out to my car, boom, puddle. Only thing I can guess is the whole drain assembly is leaking and AFAIK that's not a replaceable part unless there's some strange Taurus specific thing I might me overlooking. Or, as I mentioned, something something radiator pressure. Maybe the line that goes to the reservoir is actually blowing it out? This reminds me of the BMW motorcycle I had that had a feature which drained gas onto the ground sometimes when you turned it off.
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Dec 6, 2017 03:16
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Check the weep hole in the water pump and see if that's your leak. If not, take the reservoir out, plug it shut, fill it with water, see what happens. If nothing, replace the hose from that to the radiator...might as well. After that, I'd probably start looking really closely at the radiator for a crack in the plastic, or seeps where the core meets the side tanks*. Do you get steam coming out while it's hot? *This is what I was dealing with in my Jeep. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lDT2P-ZP2xw
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Dec 6, 2017 07:29
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thylacine posted:Have replaced the upper radiator tube, thermostat, made sure petcock on drain is tight but the poo poo seems to be coming through the drain. It's like when I shut off the car it spurts a puddle out of the drain. Is this a symptom of something else not working? Since the petcock (petcock) has been out at least once, and maybe overtightened, it's possible it's just stripped. Or one of the plastic end caps is cracked. How old is the radiator? If it's definitely coming from the petcock, you're best off just replacing the radiator. They're not hard to replace; the most annoying part is disconnecting the transmission cooler (you'll dump some ATF when you do this). This guide looks like it covers most everything. No pics, but it sounds pretty straightforward as far as a radiator replacement goes.
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Dec 6, 2017 08:18
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Since the petcock (petcock) has been out at least once, and maybe overtightened, it's possible it's just stripped. Or one of the plastic end caps is cracked. OP, if you're super lazy or a neat freak, you can clamp off the radiator hoses with great big clamps. That way you just need to drain the radiator and not the entire system. It should at least help dribbling out of the empty hoses as you lean on and shake the car as you're yanking the old radiator out and putting the new one in.
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Dec 6, 2017 18:08
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I'm gonna assume the radiator is original, so 20 years on it. Guess I'll just have to switch the drat thing out. We also pressure tested it with a rental tool from the store, when pressurized the system didn't noticeably leak anywhere.
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Dec 6, 2017 19:59
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Another potentially stupid question: Are extended life engine oils (such as the Mobil 1 Extended Performance) that go up to like 15k/1 year any good? The savings on oil changes are significant but going from a 5k to a 15k interval gives me the willies. I know this has to be paired with an extended performance filter (or regular filter changes). Sorry if this has been discussed elsewhere, I wasn't able to find any info with the forums search. rdb posted:If its just scratched you might be able to buff it out. Youtube should have some good videos on how to do so, and how to paint. Keep in mind many trade schools offer certificates in auto body, there is a lot of skill and knowledge that goes into doing it right. It also takes a lot of equipment, like a compressor, sanders, paint booth etc to get good results.
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Dec 6, 2017 21:07
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