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Mugaaz posted:Man this gap filling is a real pain in the rear end. This stuff takes several hours to cure, it would take like two days minimum if I have to do 3 coats of gap filler. Dr. Gargunza posted:The Vallejo airbrush flow improver is concentrated magic in a bottle; it only takes a drop for every 5-10 drops of paint. You want your consistency to be close to that of skim milk after adding the improver. On an airbrush note, I am really fed up with my Patriot 105. The thing has air leaks everywhere, and, after I installed a Super Detail needle kit, paint winds up backflowing into the body and up the trigger. What a piece of poo poo. The $25 Master G233 I picked up is better built that that 105 trash. 
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Dec 4, 2017 16:27
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Booyah- posted:The model is looking dope. It's the long field grass, glued at one end and cut down. I hadn't seen the pre-made tufts before but yeah that looks like what I'm looking for
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Dec 4, 2017 16:28
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berzerkmonkey posted:I know it's expensive, and I don't know what kind of gaps you're filling, but the GW Liquid Greenstuff dries in a few minutes and is really easy to work with. Just throwing that out there. contact Badger. They have a good reputation for costumer service.
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Dec 4, 2017 16:37
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BULBASAUR posted:I would consider a black rim. The blue doesn't really do anything for your model, in my opinion. The grass is fine, but I'd cut it much shorter and have each tuft a different height. Just something to consider. Goblin Green rims or get out. Have some respect for your history. 
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Dec 4, 2017 16:41
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dexefiend posted:contact Badger. They have a good reputation for costumer service.
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Dec 4, 2017 16:43
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berzerkmonkey posted:You think? I bought it just over a year ago. Absolutely! Worst case scenario you end up where you are now!
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Dec 4, 2017 16:54
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Schadenboner posted:Goblin Green rims or get out. Have some respect for your history. Counterpoint: there's a reason that stopped being the norm.
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Dec 4, 2017 17:07
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The base is the picture frame of the model. Ideally you want either a neutral base, or one that compliments the model's colours. I'd use Steel Legion Drab on that Inquisitor's base personally. It's pretty neutral and it would work a lot better for making the red pop than that murky blue. It also makes sense if you're looking at the rim as a cross section slice of the ground the guy stands on. Goblin green is and was terrible for base rims because it draws the eye away from the mini, and looks bad alongside a lot of colours.
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Dec 4, 2017 17:15
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dexefiend posted:contact Badger. They have a good reputation for costumer service. Yeah, they're usually really good about stuff. Try reaching out to Candi Carnes (candi@badgerairbrush.com), I believe she is their customer service rep, she's been very helpful with things in the past.
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Dec 4, 2017 18:40
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Welp, yesterday saw way more work get done than I was expecting.  Going for simple lava bases on these guys. (That's a pile of 8 skulls on the Mighty Lord of Khorne's base, and 8 skulls beneath the Slaughterpriest). Sucks that Khorgoraths are monopose, but they're good models.
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Dec 4, 2017 19:26
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Broken Record Talk posted:Yeah, they're usually really good about stuff. Try reaching out to Candi Carnes (candi@badgerairbrush.com), I believe she is their customer service rep, she's been very helpful with things in the past. OK, thanks.
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Dec 4, 2017 19:27
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:Goblin green is and was terrible for base rims because it draws the eye away from the mini, and looks bad alongside a lot of colours. Counterpoint: It looks  when it's clashing against primary blue, yellow and red.
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Dec 4, 2017 20:34
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berzerkmonkey posted:I know it's expensive, and I don't know what kind of gaps you're filling, but the GW Liquid Greenstuff dries in a few minutes and is really easy to work with. Just throwing that out there. Depends on the paint you use. I personally like 50/50 for reaper paints or scale (though I also add some AB thinner) and like to spray at 10-15 PSI. For vallejo air, they're already much thinner so I do maybe 1:3 of flow improver to paint and no thinner, but still spray at 10-15 PSI. At low PSI I can cover areas with minimal overspray, which I like.
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Dec 4, 2017 20:49
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On my previous blood angels I noticed that they got a slight zenithal priming effect from the red spray that I used, because the plastic itself was blue and I didn't spray equally from all angles. Now that I have an airbrush I'm going to try to replicate that effect on future blood angels, so I tried it on the terminator captain here: Does that look about right for the priming? The deathguard to the right was primed normally so to speak.
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Dec 4, 2017 20:51
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Yep, looking good.
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Dec 4, 2017 21:44
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Boon posted:Went with a slight compromise MSP, collar and mask bone, helmet is blended. This is my favourite thing posted in terms of colour in a while
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Dec 4, 2017 22:04
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Getting back into painting after a long break, I've got 6 models done and this is the first one I like:  The picture of his back came out blurry and now my camera won't save anything  Not 100% done -- need to touch up the leather straps / metal belt loops and the wire on the wrench, as well as figure out what to do for a base. But other than that...
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Dec 5, 2017 02:26
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So I'm looking to get back into miniature painting again after a loooong hiatus, and I'll basically be starting over completely from scratch. I was curious to try Scale75 paints, so I thought I'd see what the thread's opinions on them were. I've used Vallejo, P3, Army Painter, and even craft paints (Delta Ceramcoat, Apple Barrel, FolkArt, etc.) before, so I wanted to see if any of you guys had experience with the Scale75 line of paints and how they might compare to the aforementioned lines.
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Dec 5, 2017 18:58
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Sydney Bottocks posted:So I'm looking to get back into miniature painting again after a loooong hiatus, and I'll basically be starting over completely from scratch. I was curious to try Scale75 paints, so I thought I'd see what the thread's opinions on them were. I've used Vallejo, P3, Army Painter, and even craft paints (Delta Ceramcoat, Apple Barrel, FolkArt, etc.) before, so I wanted to see if any of you guys had experience with the Scale75 line of paints and how they might compare to the aforementioned lines. All paints have their place. Scale paints are heavily pigmented, have some really vibrant colors and are very thick and ultra-matte. You have to thin them heavily for airbrushing, and even then I sometimes find they gum poo poo up. They need a ton of shaking too, much like Vallejo. Compared to Vallejo, they're way more matte, have colors you can't find in those lines (and vice versa) and are even thicker (which I like for edge highlights). Their metals are the best around, hands down, in the water-based acrylic realm. I have the full scalecolor range and will eventually get the full fantasy range too as it has some really awesome colors. Also, they have a good range of skintones between the base range and fantasy range.
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Dec 5, 2017 19:06
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Bought the full scalecolor range when the black friday deals were going on. Now I do the two month wait of the store having to place an order to Scale75 and then them shipping everything from Spain to California then to me. All the cool mini stuff is from Spain.
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Dec 5, 2017 19:13
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bonds0097 posted:All paints have their place. That's a very good point, even the cheap craft paints can come in handy for doing things like bases or "slop" work where you're more concerned about just getting the paint on something in a quick & dirty fashion. quote:Their metals are the best around, hands down, in the water-based acrylic realm. Even better than the Vallejo Air metallics? That'd be hard to beat, but I'm definitely willing to give 'em a shot if they're that good. quote:Also, they have a good range of skintones between the base range and fantasy range. Good to know. I did like the P3 skintone range, so I'll probably just get 2 or 3 each of P3 and Scale75, and see what I think.
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Dec 5, 2017 19:16
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Philthy posted:Bought the full scalecolor range when the black friday deals were going on. Now I do the two month wait of the store having to place an order to Scale75 and then them shipping everything from Spain to California then to me. I think Scale75 has a US store now, from what I can tell. Haven't ordered from 'em yet, though.
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Dec 5, 2017 19:17
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I think Scale75 has a US store now, from what I can tell. Haven't ordered from 'em yet, though. Reddit claims this will get you 15% off an order on their US shop if you buy $50+. MINIXMAS Sydney Bottocks posted:That's a very good point, even the cheap craft paints can come in handy for doing things like bases or "slop" work where you're more concerned about just getting the paint on something in a quick & dirty fashion. Yeah, craft paints are fine for terrain too. When airbrushing, I tend to like Reaper because the triads make it dead simple to do a basecoat followed by a shade and a highlight and the have a consistency and translucency that I like for that kind of application. For edge highlights, nothing really beats Vallejo Model or Scale because they're nice and pigmented and I can add a drop of flow improver to slow their drying time and get some really crisp highlights. quote:Even better than the Vallejo Air metallics? That'd be hard to beat, but I'm definitely willing to give 'em a shot if they're that good. Yes. I have the Valejo Game and Model Air metallics and while I like the Model Air metallics, the Scale ones are superior. Plus they have a full range of colored metals for Alpha Legion shenanigans or whatever floats your boat. I like mixing the cobalt and steel color to make a nice blue metal for power swords for example. Anyway, I like Scale and they definitely have a solid place in my arsenal.
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Dec 5, 2017 19:27
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I think Scale75 has a US store now, from what I can tell. Haven't ordered from 'em yet, though. They do, but I'm told they do what all the other shops do. They place orders back to the home base in Spain for nearly everything. I would imagine some order would luck out when they have stuff in stock, but who knows. I got 25% off at Fantization so eh. I've got the Army Painter line which is okay, but almost all the paints are glossy as hell and it's the one thing that drives me insane with paints. I enjoy my P3 paints, but they're all in these lovely little pots with tabs that break off and I want to kick myself for ever having bought this nonsense. The amount of misery I've had trying to get those lovely little pots open is just not worth it. My buddy who does some amazing stuff recommended Scale to me over all else, and especially their metallics. So I jumped on the deal. Philthy fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Dec 5, 2017 |
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Dec 5, 2017 19:38
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Philthy posted:I enjoy my P3 paints, but they're all in these lovely little pots with tabs that break off and I want to kick myself for ever having bought this nonsense. The amount of misery I've had trying to get those lovely little pots open is just not worth it. When I had some P3 paints, I just transferred 'em over to dropper bottles (the cheap ones you can get off Amazon). Made life sooo much easier using them that way.
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Dec 5, 2017 19:50
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bonds0097 posted:When airbrushing, I tend to like Reaper because the triads make it dead simple to do a basecoat followed by a shade and a highlight and the have a consistency and translucency that I like for that kind of application. What, if anything, do you mix it with for that?
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Dec 5, 2017 19:58
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I absolutely love every scale paint I've used, a mix of the fantasy line and the normal line. I keep finding myself buying more. Pretty soon I'll probably find myself only using a couple of Vallejo metal color paints and the citadel reds for my blood angel armor, and even those are just for consistency with what I've done already. They're not the easiest paint to work with, and buying a shaker from ebay is well worth it, but I love the appearance and coverage. Their bright gold covers perfectly over black in 2 thin coats. No mid layers at all.
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Dec 5, 2017 20:13
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wdarkk posted:What, if anything, do you mix it with for that? I tend to spray at 10-15 PSI so for reaper MSP (not HD) I usually mix 50/50 with Vallejo Flow Improver plus 1 drop of Vallejo AB Thinner for every 5 drops of paint, more for some of the sludgier ones (like some of the blues and bone colors). This gives me a very thin consistency with a lot of control at 10 PSI which I love because I can spray small stuff at a close distance with minimal overspray.
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Dec 5, 2017 20:18
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bonds0097 posted:I tend to spray at 10-15 PSI so for reaper MSP (not HD) I usually mix 50/50 with Vallejo Flow Improver plus 1 drop of Vallejo AB Thinner for every 5 drops of paint, more for some of the sludgier ones (like some of the blues and bone colors). This gives me a very thin consistency with a lot of control at 10 PSI which I love because I can spray small stuff at a close distance with minimal overspray. I've done something similar although not with the AB Thinner. I assume it's actually useful over using drops of water or w/e?
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Dec 5, 2017 20:25
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wdarkk posted:I've done something similar although not with the AB Thinner. I assume it's actually useful over using drops of water or w/e? I personally don't like thinning with water. I use distilled water as a component for washes but not regular thinning, I prefer an actual acrylic thinner or medium as it won't risk pigments splitting or tide marks or any other weird poo poo.
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Dec 5, 2017 20:33
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So I went and bought myself a mini cause of course I'm going to become obsessed with tabletop gaming in its entirety. My main question is going to be whether it looks like I should pin one of the two things on a sprue or not. I thankfully found a picture of the mini unpackaged, so as you'll see in the image below it's mostly just the axe/hand and mohawk that aren't already part of the mini. For someone who is 100% new to this stuff, should I still try to set up a pin on this or just glue it? I know I need to get some shears but just figured I ought to ask. This is mainly for D&D purposes, and I don't expect to attempt to paint it for a good long while. 
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Dec 5, 2017 20:43
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Arthil posted:So I went and bought myself a mini cause of course I'm going to become obsessed with tabletop gaming in its entirety. My main question is going to be whether it looks like I should pin one of the two things on a sprue or not. Pinning is pretty easy. Just need a hand vise and some paperclips. You should absolutely pin axe given that you have a small flat plane, the worst possible bonding surface for superglue as it will be subject to plenty of shear forces. Just drill a hole on both components, stick a piece of paperclip in and glue it all together. Obviously there's a bit of nuance to hole alignment, etc. but nothing complicated. For the mohawk, you can pin but probably not necessary. I would use a metal file or knife to cut grooves into the bonding surfaces though, as that will make the glue fill those little grooves and make the bond much stronger.
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Dec 5, 2017 20:47
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Thinning with water in an airbrush in my experience just makes for more hassle with drying out on the needle when spraying or going the other way and beading on the surface to get blown around. Typically Vallejo airbrush flow improver is my go to, but if I want a thinner additive then Liquitex airbrush medium or the trusty Future floor polish.
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Dec 5, 2017 20:49
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bonds0097 posted:Pinning is pretty easy. Just need a hand vise and some paperclips. You should absolutely pin axe given that you have a small flat plane, the worst possible bonding surface for superglue as it will be subject to plenty of shear forces. Agreed. Pin the hand. Mohawk shouldn't need it, as there is more contact area and not as much leverage on that part as it doesn't have an axe sticking out.
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Dec 5, 2017 21:23
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Thanks for the advice guys! Going to a local gaming shop this Friday for a game and they've got some supplies so I'll see what I can pick up there. Only need the pin vise and the appropriate glue, but maybe I'll get lucky and they'll also have an area I could use to put it all together.
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Dec 6, 2017 03:46
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Just bought the Citadel buttplug. I really can't get over how cheap it is, I wanted to run out of the store before they realized their mistake.
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Dec 6, 2017 09:44
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Scale Paints are fantastic. I bought the full scale colour and then the full fantasy line. It’s a really magic line. Also, buy their inks. They’re double plus good.
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Dec 6, 2017 11:15
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Yeast posted:Scale Paints are fantastic. I bought the full scale colour and then the full fantasy line. Quoted for truth. I have switched almost totally over to scale 75, and other than a few GW colors I particularly like or use to keep an army consistent I can't see using anything else.
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Dec 6, 2017 13:45
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Mostly finished up a Heroforge mini for one of my buddies and started playing around with this new Macro Mat. Haven't quite gotten the hang of lighting properly yet but it's still a vast improvement over my previous hold the mini under the light and try and get the camera to focus stuff.      I need to figure out a good way to do a tiny stencil to put an emblem on his shield and then I think I will call it done.
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Dec 6, 2017 17:09
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So much good advice in this thread. This whole thread is like one big OP on painting.
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Dec 6, 2017 17:10
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