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The big problem with submarine batteries getting wet isn't so much the batterry chemicals reacting with water, it's the saltwater getting onto the terminals and causing a dead short (making the batterries explode by overheating from the masive discharge current) or the seawater being electrolyzed into its constituent components, one of which is chlorine gas. Also seperates the water out into H2 and O2 which really want to be water again in a violently exothermic reaction at the slightest provocation even if there's not a metal fire.
Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Dec 15, 2017 |
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Dec 15, 2017 04:26
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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What's the logic behind using a lightweight alloy for the base plate anyways? Wouldn't you want something heavy to ensure your saw stays flush with the work? I usually push down on the saw to keep it square with the track while I'm cutting. Come to think of it, if I saw two saws for sale identical save for one said "tungsten" on it where the other one said "magnesium", I'd go for the heavy one.
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Dec 15, 2017 10:32
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DreadLlama posted:What's the logic behind using a lightweight alloy for the base plate anyways? Wouldn't you want something heavy to ensure your saw stays flush with the work? I usually push down on the saw to keep it square with the track while I'm cutting.
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Dec 15, 2017 12:50
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DreadLlama posted:What's the logic behind using a lightweight alloy for the base plate anyways? Wouldn't you want something heavy to ensure your saw stays flush with the work? I usually push down on the saw to keep it square with the track while I'm cutting. The weight of the saw holds it in place, and the thicker and flatter the shoe is, the better. Trust me, you don't want a 10# steel shoe on a saw. Too loving heavy and rust prone.
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Dec 15, 2017 14:07
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Thoughts on surface cleaners for pressure washers? I have a driveway and deck that need attention and these seem like a good way to speed up the process while improving the quality of the job. I'll be using a borrowed gas washer, so there should be plenty of pressure.
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Dec 17, 2017 07:07
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So, the only thing that would take the diesel black exhaust stains from the chrome and vinyl wrapping of our ambulances is/was Diversey Spitfire cleaner. I acquired a few bottles and use them around the house and I can confirm they are still awesome. Just filling a mop bucket with 5 gallons and dumping in a 24 oz bottle was enough to power clean the floors and entire outside of the trucks. Using it on decks worked well, too. Only thing it won't remove is oil from concrete (but for that I use a propane weed torch).
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Dec 17, 2017 07:46
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Picked up a small electric heater for my garage. It should keep it above freezing out there, that's all I'm looking for. I tied it into the compressor controller I built a while back. Got a PID heat controller that I could communicate with my PLC. Used it to read the thermocouple for temperature readings. Used an ssr to switch the heater on. I could've just used the heat controller's relay output, but I didn't want it kicking on/off while close to the setpoint. Setting a wide deadband kinda solves that, but I already had the plc in the garage. So it heats the garage up to temperature, then waits for the temperature to drop 5 degrees, then kicks on again to heat. I'm slowly automating my garage. So far, the plc controls the heat, air compressor, and blinks a red led light when I back my car into the proper distance. This spring, I might trench over to run gas to the garage and install a proper furnace. If I do, I might run communication wires so I can control everything from the house. 
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Dec 17, 2017 22:09
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That's pretty baller. I just use an incandescent light, not very cool.
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Dec 17, 2017 22:12
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What are you using for locating your car in the garage? I am exploring those options now and haven't found one that I love yet (also looking for cheaper because paying a lot for a fancy tennis ball on a string I cannot justify).
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Dec 18, 2017 04:27
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tangy yet delightful posted:What are you using for locating your car in the garage? I am exploring those options now and haven't found one that I love yet (also looking for cheaper because paying a lot for a fancy tennis ball on a string I cannot justify). I got a surplus laser distance sensor (a semi broken one from work). One of the mounting holes was broken, so we replaced it. I glued it to a piece of bent sheet metal on my back wall. I just parked my car where I wanted, and set the distance there. Now, when I back in, as soon as I get to that distance, it blinks a green led bulb for 30 seconds.
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Dec 18, 2017 06:29
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Does anyone know where I can buy a single valve/nipple for a 3M 7502 dust mask? Something like this, but I don't need an entire case... https://www.amazon.com/3M-Inhalation-7582-Respiratory-Replacement/dp/B009POI6RG  I noticed yesterday my mask is missing one of the 2. I haven't where it ended up or how long ago it got lost. I assume the mask is not working as intended without it. Which is a pain since there is a lot of sanding in my immediate future...
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Dec 19, 2017 17:17
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keep it down up there! posted:Does anyone know where I can buy a single valve/nipple for a 3M 7502 dust mask? Zoro sells them by the Each. I found 2 10 packs in my warehouse of a part # 6889 that I test fit in a 7502 mask and it’s identical. I could probably get a 10 pack to you cheaper than buying 1 from Zoro. Let me know, and I’ll figure out how to buy them on my account and ship them or something like that.
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Dec 19, 2017 18:14
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WashinMyGoat posted:Zoro sells them by the Each. I found 2 10 packs in my warehouse of a part # 6889 that I test fit in a 7502 mask and it’s identical. I could probably get a 10 pack to you cheaper than buying 1 from Zoro. Let me know, and I’ll figure out how to buy them on my account and ship them or something like that. Oh man that would be awesome. I would certainly pay you for your effort/shipping/whatever. I don't have PMs but if you wanna email derek.mccrone at gmail we could work it out. I really appreciate it.
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Dec 19, 2017 20:34
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Well i finally got around to doing my first project with the new Hitachi C10RJ table saw that I picked up from lowes for 300 bucks. I removed the carpet in my daughter's room and replaced it with Pergo and installed some new molding. Pros: Soft start on the motor Fence system is similar to Dewalt style rack blade was very close to squared to the fence and miter out of the box has extendable outfeed 35" rip capacity sturdy folding/rolling stand cons: miter gauge is OK but wiggled sideways quite a bit and I have already replaced it with an aftermarket one that is adjustable arbor nut is too fuckin soft and the included thin wrenches have already done some rounding to one or two of the corners, even though i have only removed and torqued the nut twice. I'll probably buy a replacement one just in case. all in all i'm really happy with the purchase and it's really useful. i'll post some pics of the room once i'm done with the closet cabinets i'm building this weekend.
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Dec 20, 2017 19:15
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So what's the best source for Makita batteries? Two of mine have finally died and I need to restock.
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Dec 20, 2017 19:31
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Atticus_1354 posted:So what's the best source for Makita batteries? Two of mine have finally died and I need to restock. Should've gotten in on the promotion earlier this year, when you could get 2 5Ah batteries for $250 and get two free power tools to go with.
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Dec 20, 2017 19:34
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Should've gotten in on the promotion earlier this year, when you could get 2 5Ah batteries for $250 and get two free power tools to go with. I know. I didn't see that until it was over. I was very upset. Edit: Looks like home depot still has some good sales and I can pick up a new saw too. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-...850B2/303210533 Atticus_1354 fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Dec 21, 2017 |
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Dec 21, 2017 02:38
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Anyone taking advantage of Harbor Freight’s “spend $50 get a $5 tool” deal? I’m eyeing that nailer.
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Dec 21, 2017 18:00
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TheManWithNoName posted:Anyone taking advantage of Harbor Freight’s “spend $50 get a $5 tool” deal? I’m eyeing that nailer. My coworker that works part time at harbor freight says they get a huge number of returns on the nailer.
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Dec 21, 2017 18:39
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How many are "used it, free tool rental return"?
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Dec 21, 2017 18:42
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No idea, I just asked her about the $5 deal and the first thing she said was "we get a ton of those back". She owns the angle grinder and heat gun w/ no complaints.
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Dec 21, 2017 18:50
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Hi. I live in a box made out of 50% brick and 50% poured concrete. Both of these materials are ~a century old in place. I would also like to have shelves that can hold heavy things and hang large paintings with glass/big frames. Of these following links what would work best/not work/what do you suggest instead?? https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-...R9602/205762719 https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-...6116N/206947557 https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-GEN5X-Cordless-Lithium-ion-1-2-in-Hammer-Drill-Driver-Tool-Only-R8611503N/206947574
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Dec 21, 2017 21:03
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Any battery powered (also probably any corded) hammer drill is gonna struggle with concrete. It'll do just fine on brick though.
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Dec 21, 2017 21:24
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Sextro posted:Hi. I live in a box made out of 50% brick and 50% poured concrete. Both of these materials are ~a century old in place. I would also like to have shelves that can hold heavy things and hang large paintings with glass/big frames. I lived in a house made of 100% poured concrete, when I needed to hang anything on the walls I moved out. Hope that helps.
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Dec 21, 2017 21:28
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Man, I put a 1" hole through a 6" poured concrete wall with my 18V (nicad) dewalt hammer/driver combo drill, it went fine. It wasn't as fast as a rotary hammer, god bless, but it still went and I don't have any awful memories of the process. For smaller holes like you'd be doing for hanging pictures and shelves, it's just fine.
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Dec 21, 2017 21:31
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Bad Munki posted:Man, I put a 1" hole through a 6" poured concrete wall with my 18V (nicad) dewalt hammer/driver combo drill, it went fine. It wasn't as fast as a rotary hammer, god bless, but it still went and I don't have any awful memories of the process. For smaller holes like you'd be doing for hanging pictures and shelves, it's just fine.
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Dec 21, 2017 21:42
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I drilled pilot holes for tapcons into stucco using a bog standard drill/driver, no hammer action at all. Pretty slow going but it worked and nothing broke...though I suppose I might've shortened the lifespan of the drill somewhat, and I'm sure I shortened the lifespan of the drillbit. Of course, stucco isn't exactly the same thing as concrete.
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Dec 21, 2017 21:42
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Slugworth posted:My 18v Ridgid hammer drill failed to put a small (Probably 1/4" ish, I forget) hole into a concrete window sill on my house. Either you have a better drill, or I have better concrete. Were you using an old bit maybe? The one I used when doing the aforementioned large hole was brand new bought for that purpose, I'm sure that helped a ton. Of course, I recently inherited my father's corded makita rotary hammer, so I won't be loving around in the future. There is absolutely a world of different between a combo hammer drill, and an actual honest-to-god rotary hammer.
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Dec 21, 2017 21:59
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Sextro posted:<toy drills> And here's your dinner: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-Cordless-Lithium-Ion-7-8-in-SDS-Plus-Rotary-Hammer-Tool-Only-R86710B/300225303 Like others have said, you may or may not have a degree of success with a normal drill like the ones you posted. With an sds rotary hammer you will be able to go thru anything. Of course it isn't as versatile as a normal drill. Which is why you need both.
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Dec 21, 2017 22:25
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Bad Munki posted:Were you using an old bit maybe? The one I used when doing the aforementioned large hole was brand new bought for that purpose, I'm sure that helped a ton. Well lah-dee-dah lookit mr pro hole driller ovah heah Rnr posted:And here's your dinner: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-Cordless-Lithium-Ion-7-8-in-SDS-Plus-Rotary-Hammer-Tool-Only-R86710B/300225303 lol
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Dec 21, 2017 22:32
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Rnr posted:And here's your dinner: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-Cordless-Lithium-Ion-7-8-in-SDS-Plus-Rotary-Hammer-Tool-Only-R86710B/300225303 I can justify this. I have justified this. Thanks!
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Dec 22, 2017 00:28
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You are welcome. You posted in the drat tool thread, not the 'make fiscally sound decisions, that will please the missus, and make you secretly resent yourself' thread...
Rnr fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Dec 22, 2017 |
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Dec 22, 2017 01:08
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Sounds like this might be too late, but if I lived in a concrete house, I would definitely buy a cheap corded SDS rotary hammer drill. I have installed multiple safes (i.e. drilling into concrete slab) with a fake corded hammer drill and it sucks.
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Dec 22, 2017 02:46
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Bad Munki posted:Were you using an old bit maybe? The one I used when doing the aforementioned large hole was brand new bought for that purpose, I'm sure that helped a ton.
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Dec 22, 2017 03:09
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Trying to use an SDS drill in a no-fines concrete house ends up with a conical hole twice as wide as it is deep. Then you end up trying to resin the shrapnel back into the hole while looking up how much load plaster will take and trying to remember how many short nails you own. I once ended up installing a curtain rail on a board that I then fixed to the wall with about 50 nails and no-more nails. gently caress no-fines concrete.
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Dec 22, 2017 11:36
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Plain concrete is bad enough if you're trying to actually get your holes exactly where you want them. I was trying to hang up shelves above my washer and dryer in my basement. The joists went perpendicular to my W&D , so I couldn't just nail 2x4s into their sides up there and attach shelf brackets to the 2x4s. I considered drilling holes for each bracket but wised up real quick. I ended up having to attach 2x4s to the concrete with lag shields and bolts, then the brackets to those. Of course I had to drill bigger holes in the wood and make up the difference in the holes size with washers. What is it about masonry bits walking off where you put them?
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Dec 25, 2017 23:02
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A proper rotary hammer hits hard enough that the holes drill fast and dont really end up oblong. Your consumer grade "hammer drill" drills much slower, giving time for the bit to walk, and the flutes to erode and enlarge the sides of the hole
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Dec 25, 2017 23:38
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iForge posted:A proper rotary hammer hits hard enough that the holes drill fast and dont really end up oblong. Your consumer grade "hammer drill" drills much slower, giving time for the bit to walk, and the flutes to erode and enlarge the sides of the hole Rotary hammer vs. rebar: who would win?
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Dec 26, 2017 00:47
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kid sinister posted:Rotary hammer vs. rebar: who would win? Whoever gets to perform these experiments.
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Dec 26, 2017 01:04
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kid sinister posted:Rotary hammer vs. rebar: who would win? They sell special rebar cutting bits. Drill till you hit rebar, swap bits, drill till you get through rebar, swap back!
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Dec 26, 2017 03:25
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