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Signal posted:So, not really a painting question, but I'm not sure where else to ask: I'm looking for a miniature (28mm scale) to represent a male Dragonborn Druid with a staff. I've been hunting around like a maniac, but can't find much that doesn't stray too heavily into lizardman. Can someone help me find something better, that isn't the lifeless husk that is Heroforge? I've got this duder. Got him off ebay for like $6. Here you go: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Reaper-Miniatures-TKay-Reptus-Cleric-14096-Reptus-Unpainted-RPG-Mini-Figure/152241989835 As for anything better? Heroforge is about it. I looked and looked.. If you do find something cool, let us know. Mine represents my Dragonborn Warlock. You could use the head and green stuff it on to some other mini I guess. The model is a lot of fun to paint, though. It's very cool looking and people at the table all enjoy looking at it. Edit: He's big though. More like 50mm or so. Philthy fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Dec 12, 2017 |
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Dec 12, 2017 21:33
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Have you tried looking for kobolds? They might have more variety in heads being a fantasy race staple, and tend to be basically midget dragonmen.
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Dec 12, 2017 21:36
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Just for fun, I painted one up 2 weeks ago and thought I would compare.  For whatever reason the feet didn't seem to have any paint stick. Super fun model to paint though. Working on a bloat drone with a similar color scheme right now.
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Dec 12, 2017 21:46
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R0ckfish posted:I may have made a mistake, so I got a badger 105 airbrush to replace the crappy amazon special which broke, except the hose has what looks like a 1/4 input when the cheapo compressor I have has what I am guessing is a 1/8th output. I don't want to just go and order things willy nilly in an attempt to fix it, does anyone have any suggestions? wdarkk posted:If you got a Master branded compressor, I'd recommend these.
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Dec 12, 2017 21:59
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What's a good source for dead bodies to litter scenery with? Particularly 40K stuff?Boon posted:Hoping if I can solicit your goon thoughts on how to paint the witchblade here (model about 80% complete, need to fix blending and touchups, and finish eyes/gems). I could go red as with the gems, but I'm not sure that's not going to drown out the model or look to Christmas-y. Purple or Blue perhaps? I'd actually try either yellow - either solid yellow or silver glazed with yellow. You've already got two contrasting colours with red and green so I'd want a more middle ground here.
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Dec 12, 2017 22:00
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Indolent Bastard posted:What's the difference between a dragon-man and a lizard-man? Especially at 28mm? Loads of the official D&D art has some very lizard looking dragonborn characters. Mostly in head shape. The model we're using right now has a caiman snout, which doesn't look draconic at all. Wargods of Aegyptus, for example, has a ton of crocodile people, but they don't look much like Dragonborn. It's okay if you don't see the difference, but it's pretty blatant in 28mm compared to, for example, some of the 6mm I have. Philthy posted:I've got this duder. Got him off ebay for like $6. Thanks, it's good to know that he's that large. Neurolimal posted:Have you tried looking for kobolds? They might have more variety in heads being a fantasy race staple, and tend to be basically midget dragonmen. That's a good idea, I'll take a look.
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Dec 12, 2017 22:01
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If you're willing to stick your toes into having something 3D Printed, you might find something suitable either on this specific page: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/dmworkshop or elsewhere on the site. These in particular, perhaps. https://www.shapeways.com/product/JLW3S492H/dragonborn-male-monk-with-staff?optionId=63766234 https://www.shapeways.com/product/8TNFVQ8E4/red-dragonborn-male-monk-with-staff?optionId=63782258 Arthil fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Dec 13, 2017 |
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Dec 13, 2017 04:20
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bonds0097 posted:I use liquid mask a fair bit and like it. I also highly recommend MiG Masking Putty, that poo poo is amazing and gives cleaner edges than liquid mask: http://www.migjimenez.com/en/accessories/524-camouflage-masking-putty.html Thanks for posting this. It looks really good. I didn't realize you could get such sharp edges with that kind of putty.
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Dec 13, 2017 12:56
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Have any of you guys bought any of the Scale75 busts? How heavy are they? I'm thinking about buying 2 of them and some nice plinths and using them as book ends, but I'm not sure if they'll be strong enough to support the weight. Alternatively, any suggestions on how to add some weight without ruining the aesthetic?
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Dec 13, 2017 17:04
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Sab669 posted:Have any of you guys bought any of the Scale75 busts? How heavy are they? Attach them to heavier weight bases
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Dec 13, 2017 17:45
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w00tmonger posted:Attach them to heavier weight bases This. Go to a trophy shop, or possibly a marble supply place and get two matched bases to glue the busts on.
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Dec 13, 2017 18:29
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Painted up my first Batman Miniature Game crew: So different from working on GW stuff, with much smaller details and the scale just being so totally different. Definitely gonna be painting more as I build a full 350 point crew.
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Dec 13, 2017 18:57
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All I could find was just regular old resin bases, but yea I'll see if I can find some marble specifically. Gonna be expensive 
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Dec 13, 2017 19:02
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Sab669 posted:Have any of you guys bought any of the Scale75 busts? How heavy are they? I don't think you'd want to use anything delicate as a book end. All my book ends weigh a LOT and will still move around if you're not careful. Unless you find a solid steel bust with even more weight added to it, I wouldn't even try.
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Dec 13, 2017 19:18
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bonds0097 posted:Painted up my first Batman Miniature Game crew: I must regretfully inform you that you have painted the Flash, and not Batman.
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Dec 13, 2017 19:19
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Ignite Memories posted:I must regretfully inform you that you have painted the Flash, and not Batman. Nope, it says Batman right there on the box in big letters: 
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Dec 13, 2017 19:23
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This is probably common knowledge, but in looking for Christmas gifts I've stumbled upon this site: Greenstuffworld Not only do they sell a ton of useful tools and stuff, but there is a huge tutorial section that shows you how to do a myriad of cool as gently caress things with green stuff and plasticard. Just thought I'd drop it in in case there were others that were totally oblivious to it's existence.
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Dec 13, 2017 19:27
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bonds0097 posted:Nope, it says Batman right there on the box in big letters: Oh, my b
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Dec 13, 2017 19:37
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Sab669 posted:All I could find was just regular old resin bases, but yea I'll see if I can find some marble specifically. Gonna be expensive Probably cheaper than you think. I'm not sure if this is big/heavy enough, but its about $10. https://www.trophykits.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BCB8
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Dec 13, 2017 19:38
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:This is probably common knowledge, but in looking for Christmas gifts I've stumbled upon this site: drat thats awesome. Which is the right commercial green putty product to buy thats cheaper than the GW branded stuff?
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Dec 13, 2017 19:56
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:This is probably common knowledge, but in looking for Christmas gifts I've stumbled upon this site: This is really great. Booyah- posted:drat thats awesome. Kneadatite
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Dec 13, 2017 19:58
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Fellow goons, I need some help and I'm hoping this is the right thread for it! I have a Rogue Trader era Predator tank like the one on the below image with one small detail missing, the main cannon. If any of you guy have this baby, could you maybe give me the measurements? Length and diameter of the barrel and the muzzle should be enough to create a replacement.  Alternatively if you have a spare one lying around for some odd reason, name your price!
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Dec 13, 2017 23:42
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That autocannon barrel was like always the first thing to loving snap off too.
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Dec 14, 2017 00:27
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Just realized I lost the O-ring on my Master airbrush. What's my easiest path to replacement?
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Dec 14, 2017 01:46
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I really need to reign myself in a little bit. Not made a single brush stroke and yet already contemplating conversions to make models work for character concepts.
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Dec 14, 2017 03:41
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I'm working on a Gundam, and it's my first time doing spray paint. How many coats of Tamiya white spray paint should it take to get good coverage? Is the answer fifty? Because I've done like a half dozen coats so far and it doesn't look like I'm close to finished
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Dec 14, 2017 04:23
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Guy Goodbody posted:I'm working on a Gundam, and it's my first time doing spray paint. How many coats of Tamiya white spray paint should it take to get good coverage? Is the answer fifty? Because I've done like a half dozen coats so far and it doesn't look like I'm close to finished Ouch, we may need a picture to see what the damage was. To be frank, a single good coat "should" be all you need since there usually aren't a lot of recessed details to gum up. Two lighter coats is going to be better since you really don't want thicker coats at all. Are you intending the paint to be a base coat for later painting? Are you getting colors bleeding through? More specific info on the issue would be helpful.
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Dec 14, 2017 14:08
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with a rebel yell she QQd posted:Fellow goons, I need some help and I'm hoping this is the right thread for it! I have a Rogue Trader era Predator tank like the one on the below image with one small detail missing, the main cannon. If I remember tonight, I'll get those measurements for you.
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Dec 14, 2017 14:42
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Major Spag posted:Ouch, we may need a picture to see what the damage was. I sprayed it with Tamiya Primer, which went fine. And even though this is my first time using spray paint, I did some parts in Blue and that went fine with two or three coats. It's this white that's got me all hosed up. I've now managed to get it on way too thick but also the primer still shows slightly through in spots 
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Dec 14, 2017 15:17
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You don't need total coverage for your primer layer, even if it's a little spotty it will still work for giving you the tooth you need for your basecoats.
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Dec 14, 2017 15:40
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MasterSlowPoke posted:You don't need total coverage for your primer layer, even if it's a little spotty it will still work for giving you the tooth you need for your basecoats. I meant I sprayed it with primer first. The white is over the primer
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Dec 14, 2017 15:46
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This is Tamiya paints through an airbrush? I can't say that I've ever seen anything in their line come through an airbrush transparent. A while back I tried doing a smaller part by brush with Tamiya orange because I was lazy and after 10 coats and it being see through I gave up. I let it dry, then a single pass with the exact same paint through an airbrush was solid orange and exactly how I wanted it.
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Dec 14, 2017 17:12
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Also, white is very difficult to pull of for most people. Since you are using spray, i'd imagine it may take awhile for you to get the coverage you want. Toughest colors for new people to master: White > Yellow >>> Red... White because for most people, the color doesn't have the pigment to really show through well without multiple passes. Thus why white housepaint + primer is such a time saver since it saves you from having to paint the white multiple times. For us mini painters, you want multiple thin coats for white to keep it from getting too think and covering fine details. Should technically just be fine with a primer base coat (go light, you don't need complete coverage) then thin layers of white.
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Dec 14, 2017 17:39
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Guy Goodbody posted:I meant I sprayed it with primer first. The white is over the primer This is a general problem with white, it's terrible about showing the underlayer through itself. My recommendation is that you pick up some white primer (rustoleum is pretty good) for the rest of your pieces. Tamiya is great but if the primer is gray or black then you're going to have a hell of a time getting pure white. e: if you do get rustoleum remember to get primer, and not paint + primer.
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Dec 14, 2017 19:06
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I did another coat this morning and it went better, so I think another issue was that I wasn't giving them enough time to dry. I'll just do 24 hours between coats, and then buy some white primer
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Dec 14, 2017 22:48
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I wasn't sure whether to post this here or the X-Wing thread, but it is a painting question, so... I got a set of acrylic movement templates, and they've been etched, but not painted. If I wanted to paint the etched area, should I prime first, or will there be enough grip for paint without having to do that first? Specifically, i got these: https://www.etsy.com/listing/269760382/acrylic-maneuver-and-range-ruler?ref=shop_home_active_57 The lighter sections are slightly acid-etched (I'm assuming) so I thought I'd paint them before I peel the paper off.
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Dec 14, 2017 23:19
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You should be fine to paint without primer. People also use crayon to color those etchings in.
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Dec 15, 2017 03:06
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If they're etched you could also pretty easily make a wash and brush it into recesses.
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Dec 15, 2017 05:26
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I finally got around to a little project that I've want to do for a few years. I gridded out several sheets of 14x17 bristol board that I had and made swatches of all of my Vallejo, P3, and Citadel paints and washes. It's nice to have them so that I can look at the colors out of their bottles or pots. The swatches on a computer screen are okay, but it's nice to see the colors up close.   
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Dec 15, 2017 05:49
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Went to a little painting class at the local game shop this evening. Not really too keen on posting the results, I know it's pretty sloppy though I think for my first time touching brush to mini it ain't the worst. Blending flew right over my head, but maybe I just didn't get to listen/watch closely enough. Seemed to pick up on how to do the wash, and dry brushing pretty easily though and am kind of proud of how nicely the rusted effect on metal I did turned out.
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Dec 15, 2017 07:38
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