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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Do the lights come on when you turn on the hazards? All the lights except for the rear driver side signal light come on. There is literally no socket for the rear driver side signal light. Edit: sorry for the response delay, it's for a 2002 Saturn (LS100 I think) (It's a tiny manual sedan)
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Dec 19, 2017 23:27
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Geoj posted:Also does the car track more or less straight, can you feel the steering wheel pulsing in time with the noise and/or does the steering wheel try to pull one way or the other? Steering wheel pulls to the right about 5-10*, not sure about a pulsing, but when it does pull it does so suddenly. Car steers to the right without me correcting the steering `Nemesis posted:Easily could have bent a tie rod or something, I'd tell the shop what happened and let them diagnose. If you just ask for an alignment, and they do that but there's other damage, you may have to pay for them to do another alignment after the repairs. Will do
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Dec 20, 2017 01:13
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JawKnee posted:I slid into a curb today while going around a roundabout due to snow/ice. Wasn't going terribly fast but my right front wheel hit the highest part of the curb basically right on the wheel's side. Noticed a pull to the right immediately, and there's a rhythmic low pitched sort of hum-hum-hum while driving which gets faster as roadspeed increases. Booked an alignment for tomorrow morning - hopefully it's nothing more serious? JawKnee posted:Steering wheel pulls to the right about 5-10*, not sure about a pulsing, but when it does pull it does so suddenly. Car steers to the right without me correcting the steering Take your wallet with you.  I'd count on the lower control arm and tie rod being a little bent out of shape (  ) about the incident. Wheel bearing would be a safe bet too.
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Dec 20, 2017 08:51
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Two of the tires on my ES 300 keep going flat for seemingly no reason. They're only a little over a year old and have maybe 15k on them, tops. I've taken them back to the tire shop twice now under warranty and they can't find any leaks, and they don't see any problem with my wheels. They replaced the valve stems but it happened again a day or two later. If they go flat again, being undamaged and still under warranty, am I justified to ask for replacements?
Kibbles n Shits fucked around with this message at 14:42 on Dec 20, 2017 |
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Dec 20, 2017 14:40
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Kibbles n Shits posted:Two of the tires on my ES 300 keep going flat for seemingly no reason. They're only a little over a year old and have maybe 15k on them, tops. I've taken them back to the tire shop twice now under warranty and they can't find any leaks, and they don't see any problem with my wheels. They replaced the valve stems but it happened again a day or two later. If they go flat again, being undamaged and still under warranty, am I justified to ask for replacements? Get some really soapy water, a brush, lather them up and look for bubbles yourself. If they go flat in a day it should be easy to find. At that point mark the hole, take a picture and show the place that put them on. A proper patch goes on the inside of the tire. Asking them to warranty the tires is fair but I doubt they will do it.
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Dec 20, 2017 16:49
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Take your wallet with you. waiting on the word from the garage driving there was significantly worse than my recollection yesterday. Very loud HUM-HUM-HUM when I got up over 30kph, steering became somewhat unreliable on speeds over that, although that could be because of ice on the road (saw a number of cars slipping around out there this morning). JawKnee fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Dec 20, 2017 |
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Dec 20, 2017 17:31
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What’s involved in conditioning leather seats? Is it just a leather conditioner like I would use on my dress shoes, but a lot more of it?
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Dec 20, 2017 17:42
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Couple of questions: 2010 Chevy Traverse LT - I got in a fender-bender a couple months ago, one that hosed up the body around the passenger side headlight. The coolant tank is on that side as well, and last week, I got the overheat dinging about halfway home and pulled over. Ended up having to get picked up by my wife, then go back later with water and try to at least get home - to no avail. We picked up some DexCool at Walmart and tried that as well, which JUST got me home as it started redlining. We got the oil changed this weekend and (3% oil life because we couldn't afford a drat oil change and my wife wouldn't let me touch it since I've never done it before), again, it just made it home, a bit longer this time, before redlining. Engine usually runs around 210 or so but it creeps up to the redline within 10 minutes of starting it. Is there a coolant leak somewhere? The level in the tank doesn't seem to be dropping, but a friend that looked at the car a few months back said something about the fan belt. I know the radiator is on the hosed-up side as well...I just have no clue where to start here and I'd rather not shell out for a mechanic if I don't have to. - Our speakers work only intermittently. 90% of the time, only the front speakers work, not the doors or rear speakers. When it's hot and kinda humid out, all of them work. What the gently caress is going on?
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Dec 20, 2017 17:53
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D34THROW posted:Couple of questions: If the coolant isn't leaking, then it must not be circulating enough. Check the water pump and belt, but my guess would be that radiator has pinched some pipes that limits overall flow.
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Dec 20, 2017 17:59
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D34THROW posted:Couple of questions: I replaced so many radiators on Chevrolet Traverses and GMC Acadias. It seems like the only cars I regularly worked on that just ate radiators. My theory was always that these cars were run low on coolant thoughout their lives, because the only way to check the coolant in the radiator is to pull off 14 plastic rivets and remove the plastic above the radiator. The REAL radiator cap is under that. On the radiator itself. If you haven't already figured it out - fill up the radiator - not the overflow tank.
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Dec 20, 2017 18:57
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22 Eargesplitten posted:What’s involved in conditioning leather seats? Is it just a leather conditioner like I would use on my dress shoes, but a lot more of it? http://www.leatherique.com/
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Dec 20, 2017 20:08
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JawKnee posted:waiting on the word from the garage Kal Tire didn't charge me anything for the inspection which is nice Because they can't do the alignment Because the lower control arm is bent, as is the right front shock (badly in their words); also both tie rods have 'some give'. I don't know what that means but it sounds bad. They aren't doing mechanical work until mid January, but told me the car is safe to drive short distances at lower speeds, so I was able to get it to my regular mechanic, who will hopefully be able to get the work done before Sunday, though that seems unlikely.
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Dec 20, 2017 21:21
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Took my 2010 Camaro it to the mechanic today after the check engine light came on earlier this week and he said I needed to to get my left catalytic converter replaced. While doing some research I read about the EPA's compliance warranty supposedly covering catalytic converters for up to 8 years / 80k miles, both of which I am under. I can't seem to find much about it or how to file a claim on the EPA's website. Does anyone know if this program still active, and if so, where I start? My mechanic didn't have a clue what I was talking about when I asked him. http://www.meca.org/regulation/the-us-environmental-protection-agencys-motor-vehicle-compliance-program
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Dec 21, 2017 00:05
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MrXmas posted:Took my 2010 Camaro it to the mechanic today after the check engine light came on earlier this week and he said I needed to to get my left catalytic converter replaced. While doing some research I read about the EPA's compliance warranty supposedly covering catalytic converters for up to 8 years / 80k miles, both of which I am under. I can't seem to find much about it or how to file a claim on the EPA's website. Does anyone know if this program still active, and if so, where I start? My mechanic didn't have a clue what I was talking about when I asked him. Call a GM dealer service department, explain the situation and ask them. They are the ones who should/could/might honor it.
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Dec 21, 2017 00:32
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Who is Dick Dicer
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Dec 21, 2017 03:03
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Buccaneer posted:Who is Dick Dicer aka 14 inch dick, of Truck/Nebraska/wanted to ride a bicycle from Florida to Colorado fame. Among other notorieties.
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Dec 21, 2017 03:23
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Dumb question: What kind of car is this?
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Dec 21, 2017 04:47
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Boat tail buick riviera
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Dec 21, 2017 04:49
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Handen posted:Dumb question: What kind of car is this? It's a 71 Buick Riviera
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Dec 21, 2017 04:50
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That was loving fast. Thanks!
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Dec 21, 2017 04:51
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So...that's the question that picture makes you ask?
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Dec 21, 2017 05:11
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The worst website ever, but everything I've heard about the product usually says it is the best stuff. I spent ages looking on dye and crack repair for my old car and always got leatherique recommended.
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Dec 21, 2017 05:35
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I'll be driving round trip from Atlanta to Buffalo, NY next weekend. This will be my first road trip in winter with my 2008 Prius. The front tires were replaced a few thousand miles ago, the back tires are still good, and I have a full extra wheel and tire in case of a flat courtesy of the junkyard. The oil was changed with Mobil 1 Extended Performance even more recently along with the coolant and filters. Any other prep I should do?
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Dec 21, 2017 06:54
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JawKnee posted:Kal Tire didn't charge me anything for the inspection which is nice If you're using an independent shop, hopefully your mechanic will have a junkyard send over a complete right front "knee" - it'll be the control arm, steering knuckle, wheel bearing, and (probably) strut. It's a lot faster to just swap everything already assembled. It's a couple of hours of (actual) work that way, plus an alignment afterwards. Also a hell of a lot cheaper than buying all new parts and putting them together. You CAN drive it... just don't though, it'll chew up that tire, and the car (as you noticed) will handle pretty lovely. Josh Lyman posted:I'll be driving round trip from Atlanta to Buffalo, NY next weekend. This will be my first road trip in winter with my 2008 Prius. The front tires were replaced a few thousand miles ago, the back tires are still good, and I have a full extra wheel and tire in case of a flat courtesy of the junkyard. The oil was changed with Mobil 1 Extended Performance even more recently along with the coolant and filters. Any other prep I should do? Washer fluid. If you have the bug-dissolving type, it typically freezes around 32F. Even the cheap blue stuff is usually good to well below 0F.
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Dec 21, 2017 08:05
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Washer fluid. If you have the bug-dissolving type, it typically freezes around 32F. Even the cheap blue stuff is usually good to well below 0F. On that note, I guess I should get a windshield scraper too. Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 08:42 on Dec 21, 2017 |
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Dec 21, 2017 08:36
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If it's Supertech's (walmart store brand) blue stuff, it's good to 0F or -20F (depending on if you got the winter version or not). If it's the green one, it's good to 32F. e: damnit you snuck in an edit. Walmart's store brand will be fine. And cheaper. Just get the blue one, not green (you don't want the bug-guts-melting one). e2: you're as bad as I am about sneaking in edits. any of the ones you linked in the edits will be fine. Store brands will be fine too, just make sure the bottle says it's good for 0F or lower. The ones meant for winter will help melt ice and snow too. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:49 on Dec 21, 2017 |
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Dec 21, 2017 08:40
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:If it's Supertech's (walmart store brand) blue stuff, it's good to 0F or -20F (depending on if you got the winter version or not). If it's the green one, it's good to 32F. I assume I should flush the current fluid before filling the tank with the low temp stuff?
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Dec 21, 2017 08:55
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AFAIK the only real difference in the low temp stuff is how much alcohol or methanol is in the fluid. So long as you haven't been filling it with water, you should be fine. e: might try putting armor all or a very light layer of vaseline on the door seals (the rubber gaskets around the door) to keep them from freezing shut. That's a pain to deal with.
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Dec 21, 2017 09:00
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Anyone know of a place that rents engine hoists? Need to pull the bottom end out of my car and would rather not buy a hoist that I'll only use a couple of times
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Dec 21, 2017 15:45
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ROFLburger posted:Anyone know of a place that rents engine hoists? Need to pull the bottom end out of my car and would rather not buy a hoist that I'll only use a couple of times Just about any equipment rental place should rent engine hoists. Find one near you.
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Dec 21, 2017 15:55
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I was looking at a car yesterday and had a nagging feeling something was wrong. Driving home, I think I figured it out. If there’s rust on the tailpipe, there’s rust under the body, isn’t there? I never even think about rust because it pretty much isn’t an issue on CO cars. No humidity and we don’t salt the roads.
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Dec 21, 2017 16:38
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Very likely
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Dec 21, 2017 19:07
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Is there a thread for OBD scanners, dongles, and apps? I paged through a bunch of threads here in AI, as well as in IYG and SHSC, but I didn't see anything. It looks like the topic comes up in this thread, but I don't have a specific problem or anything that I'm trying to track down. I just want to chat about tips and tricks, and which models to buy 
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Dec 21, 2017 20:17
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Thanks again to everyone that helped me solve my oil leak. I still need some more help though... 1988 F150 302. My truck doesn't idle well at all. It surges from 800-1000 RPM. I'm waiting right now for the thermostat to open so I can finish topping off the antifreeze, but when I was driving it around my neighborhood to test my oil leak fix, it would dip low enough to die. I have done a lot of work to this truck this year besides my oil leak. I basically gave it a tune up: new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I took the distributor off too to do the lower manifold gasket (did its O ring too) but I made sure to line up the marks I made exactly. The only thing I can think of is bad gas. Its been in both tanks for a year now. My truck has been sitting in my driveway since last winter for a stuck clutch pedal and I've worked on it when I could. I fixed that too, but it still won't run right. This truck is a steaming pile. Also, my engine squeaks. How do I figure out which pulley it is? The alternator and water pump are recent and I just replaced the power steering pump. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Dec 21, 2017 |
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Dec 21, 2017 21:45
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Something that old, I'd guess a vacuum leak or failing IACV is the cause of your inconsistent idle. For the squeak, check the tensioner and idler pullies.
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Dec 21, 2017 22:01
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BlackMK4 posted:Very likely Thanks. Guess I’ll have to reconsider it. Unrelated (very unrelated), remember those lovely early ‘90s automatic seatbelts? Is there a safe way to disable the sliding so they act like normal belts? One that can be reversed in case I ever sold the car to some weirdo that liked those lovely things?
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Dec 21, 2017 22:15
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Josh Lyman posted:I'll be driving round trip from Atlanta to Buffalo, NY next weekend. This will be my first road trip in winter with my 2008 Prius. The front tires were replaced a few thousand miles ago, the back tires are still good, and I have a full extra wheel and tire in case of a flat courtesy of the junkyard. The oil was changed with Mobil 1 Extended Performance even more recently along with the coolant and filters. Any other prep I should do? In addition to what was listed previously, you might consider some extra warm clothing (wool socks, gloves hat), to keep in the car, small folding snow shovel, and some food. Buffalo can get totally crushed with snow.
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Dec 21, 2017 22:21
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my old 1994 Chevy S-10 got much more consistent RPMs once the fuel pump finally died and was replaced, especially at idle. I'm talking about the one in/near the gas tank though, so it's not the first thing to try (I'm pretty sure that old thing has some pressure/vacuum issues with various hoses too)
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Dec 21, 2017 22:21
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kid sinister posted:Thanks again to everyone that helped me solve my oil leak. I still need some more help though... 1988 F150 302. It could very well be the gas, since it's been sitting so long. Run one tank until it's half empty, then fill up, rinse repeat a couple of times (or run it to nearly empty, then fill up, as long as you know both pumps are working... can't run out of gas as easily with 2 tanks  ). Gas tends to go bad after a few months.
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Dec 21, 2017 22:32
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Geoj posted:Something that old, I'd guess a vacuum leak or failing IACV is the cause of your inconsistent idle. I just got done repairing all my vacuum lines. The hard vinyl ones tended to snap when it was cold last week. I also replaced the brake booster and cruise control vac lines since they were all original rubber. That should be it for complete hoses aside from the AC, I already did all the coolant lines. I'll go double check them, but they all looked okay. I also replaced the IACV and pigtail. Still got the problem. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:It could very well be the gas, since it's been sitting so long. Run one tank until it's half empty, then fill up, rinse repeat a couple of times (or run it to nearly empty, then fill up, as long as you know both pumps are working... can't run out of gas as easily with 2 tanks When testing it by running errands around town, I noticed it was at 1/4 tank for the front so I filled it up. It's running better, but still dies on occasion. Could the throttle position sensor do this? I replaced it ages ago, but noticed I still have the original pigtail. Somehow the original tabs on the socket survived 30 years. Edit: speaking of squeaky pulleys, is this metal fatigue on my AC clutch? 
kid sinister fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Dec 22, 2017 |
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Dec 21, 2017 22:51
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