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with a rebel yell she QQd posted:I'm done with my Shadespire undead team, feel like my best work so far. Hot drat those are some fine looking skeletons. I might have to buy them just to paint them and have them around.
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Dec 21, 2017 17:34
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with a rebel yell she QQd posted:I'm done with my Shadespire undead team, feel like my best work so far. Them's some good lookin skellies.
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Dec 21, 2017 17:39
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with a rebel yell she QQd posted:I'm done with my Shadespire undead team, feel like my best work so far. Skellies look great. If you're trying to get shots like yeast/mine, move your background paper further away from the models/light. It'll drop to black surprisingly quickly.
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Dec 21, 2017 17:54
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with a rebel yell she QQd posted:I'm done with my Shadespire undead team, feel like my best work so far. These look great, the red and bronze give them an undead spartan vibe to me, which is cool.
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Dec 21, 2017 17:56
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with a rebel yell she QQd posted:Fuckin love the models.  so very Harryhausen.
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Dec 21, 2017 18:37
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Ayn Marx posted:How hard was it to remove the dangle bits from the DA lieutenant you have on the right? I didn't shave any plastic on that one, just replaced the head and shoulder parts which are separate. The various other swords and chest don't really bother me as looking too dangle like.
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Dec 21, 2017 18:40
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Yeast posted:Got around to photographing some of the units I've finished lately, cross posted from the 40K thread. Your stuff is really amazing, Yeast. The weathering on that basilisk especially! What is your photo set up? Do you just use a black backdrop and a mirror?
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Dec 21, 2017 18:51
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Thanks man! Setup is a big piece of black acrylic, with two flashes either side. I’m taking more pics today, so I’ll remember to snap the setup.
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Dec 21, 2017 21:50
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Booley posted:Skellies look great. If you're trying to get shots like yeast/mine, move your background paper further away from the models/light. It'll drop to black surprisingly quickly. Actually its all coincidental. I tried using white background, but it made my phone go crazy so used a black box I had on my table and I didn't aim for reflective surface at all, just put my figures on my deck holder for the Shadespire cards and BANG I noticed the similarity and how good it looked. Next time it will be on purpose and try to move it all further from the light. Time to paint some Bloodreavers!
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Dec 21, 2017 22:35
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Yeast posted:Thanks man! Please do! Gonna grab a couple acrylic sheets and give this a whirl.
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Dec 21, 2017 22:48
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 Twelve Reaper Bones lizardfolk primed gloss black in prep for tests of all twelve of my new Green Stuff World ColorShift "chameleon" metal paints -- that's metallic paints with at least two shades, set up so they show one or the other depending on viewing angle. This was a miserable experience; that much primer beats the absolute poo poo out of my airbrush, hence its disassembly and soak in a mason jar full of Simple Green for at least a few hours while I wait for the gloss primer to dry, and the hydrophobic Bones PVC can't accept primer that's been thinned at all, so I had to blow it through the airbrush undilited in about three layers per figure.  Tomorrow I'll do another layer on each of 'em and then do spinny turnaround videos. Stephenls fucked around with this message at 06:19 on Dec 22, 2017 |
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Dec 22, 2017 02:58
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Can anyone recommend some good mini brands/lines for D&D 5e? I want to pick up some unpainted minis for our games to contribute but I'm struggling to choose. Ideally they would be good value but high quality plastic and of course unpainted. Ideally I think our group needs some general humans (townsfolk, guards etc.) so I can only assume it would be cheaper to get some "non D&D" line of general medieval ones right?
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Dec 22, 2017 03:52
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If you really want cheap, go 1/72. Harder to get fantasy critters but all the tiny medieval mans at a low low cost you could ever want. And depending on how fantastic you like it, you can fairly easily use miniature lines appropriately painted as stand-ins for other critters - I use a mix of ancient britons and LotR Moria Goblins (28mm, but almost perfectly to scale with 1/72 humans) for orcs, for instance.
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Dec 22, 2017 03:56
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Red_Fred posted:Can anyone recommend some good mini brands/lines for D&D 5e? I want to pick up some unpainted minis for our games to contribute but I'm struggling to choose. Ideally they would be good value but high quality plastic and of course unpainted. Reaper Bones are pretty much made for what you're asking. They have everything you need for DnD and they're cheap.
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Dec 22, 2017 04:09
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Wizkids has a pretty good line of licensed DnD and Pathfinder minis. They're pretty cheap too, which is nice.
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Dec 22, 2017 04:29
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So I'm gonna be starting on painting this weekend once the last thing I ordered gets here. Does anyone have experience with vallejo primer? Particularly painting it on. More wondering what the general dry time is, and whether the recommended cure time on the bottle is good enough. Edit: Another question! I came across some bulk-buy miniature bases on Ebay. However they appear to be made out of wood. Would that even be a problem? Reviews seem to be generally good, but trying to google on this mostly spits out how to make your plastic base look like wood. Arthil fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Dec 22, 2017 |
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Dec 22, 2017 04:32
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Nolzur also come preprimed, which is nice. E: They also have the only displacer beast miniature I'm aware of. Neurolimal fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Dec 22, 2017 |
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Dec 22, 2017 04:34
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Neurolimal posted:E: They also have the only displacer beast miniature I'm aware of. Reaper "Phase Cat"
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Dec 22, 2017 05:05
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darnon posted:Reaper "Phase Cat" You've got me there, but how about ceiling mimics??? ....because Nolzur doesn't have those. I'd love to see how a sculptor would pull them off though!
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Dec 22, 2017 05:36
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Some ships I painted craptastically. I went too far with the metal highlighting so it is a lot messier than my previous attempts. I also realized that the scalloping on the side hulls don't match my light source of the main hull so it looks weird. They should have been straight but I goofed when painting them up.   
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Dec 22, 2017 14:18
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Major Spag posted:Some ships I painted craptastically. I went too far with the metal highlighting so it is a lot messier than my previous attempts. I also realized that the scalloping on the side hulls don't match my light source of the main hull so it looks weird. They should have been straight but I goofed when painting them up. Live free in the NC!
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Dec 22, 2017 14:22
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Cooked Auto posted:Live free in the NC! I guess I am too old to get this reference?
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Dec 22, 2017 15:37
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Major Spag posted:I guess I am too old to get this reference? Or never played Planetside I guess as the colour scheme reminded me of the New Conglomerate faction as it was pretty much the same shade of blue and yellow.  Looks great though.
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Dec 22, 2017 15:57
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Major Spag posted:I guess I am too old to get this reference? If it makes you feel better my immediate guess was New California, since those are some vibrantly Vaultboy colors.
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Dec 22, 2017 16:04
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So honestly I just wanted to something other than red (Blood Angels) and I had some blue already. And so I went blue with these guys. But since Orange is the complementary color, and I already use orange for my engines, I thought yellow would work to help break up the blue. It definitely has a VaultTek look to it though. Didn't know about the PS reference but I can see the scheme looking similar.
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Dec 22, 2017 16:26
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In any case, they look great and you're being too harsh on yourself.
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Dec 22, 2017 17:37
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Cooked Auto posted:Live free in the NC! Filthy smurfs have no respect for authority
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Dec 22, 2017 17:46
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Ignite Memories posted:Filthy smurfs have no respect for authority It kinda kills me that there was never any sort of Planetside miniatures, I would have collected Terran Republic mans and their chubby tanks in a heartbeat.
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Dec 22, 2017 19:42
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Neurolimal posted:In any case, they look great and you're being too harsh on yourself. Appreciate the compliments but the armor will forever vex me every time I see them.
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Dec 22, 2017 19:44
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Amazing stuff Yeast. That weathering on the tanks owns Here's some Thousand Sons guys finished recently: Vets      Rotor cannons 
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Dec 22, 2017 20:04
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holy moly those are nice, hixson
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Dec 22, 2017 20:14
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Yeah, nicely done! And good photos as well, photo quality is really amazing around here recently.
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Dec 22, 2017 20:32
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(Note: this post isn't directed towards anyone, especially on this great page) So, I started handpainting after & while reading both this thread and the Gunpla thread, and constantly reading tutorials both before and painting every new piece has helped me improve a -lot-, but at the same time, even as little as 2 months ago, I've reached epiphanies on techniques I've failed to pick up on or killed habits that have been plaguing my attempts. So I figured I'd write them down in the possible case that someone else follows these threads and reaches the same mistakes I have made: 1. Dont mop your brush! This is a nasty habit that actually grew from a combination of Gunpla advice (multiple coats brushed from different angles to obfuscate brush marks) and thinning paints. What I mean by mopping is twofold; it's trying to spread out excess paint you've accidentally applied without lifting your brush, and alternating/reversing brush strokes on the same wet/uncured layer. Both end up with an uneven 'scratchy' layer where the bristles of the brush scrape the surface as well as allocating paint unnaturally. The latter also can roll up semi-dried pieces of paint and merge it with the wet paint, resulting in ugly specs and grains in what should be a smooth coat. The solution to this is pretty simple: brush in one direction per coat, and lift your brush when reorienting rather than dragging it around. 2. Use enough paint! This problem came from regular reinforcement of the (very important) advice of "thin your paints!". It's easy to extend that advice to the actual application of the paint, and end up being needlessly stingy with every layer of paint. It's very important to thin your paints, but at the same time it's important that you use enough paint, otherwise you end up with strange lumpy coats where your microbe-thin layers have dried mid-application and interfered with your ideal smooth coats, as well as resulting in a muddy color scheme due to rough base coat colors & primers clearly showing through your intended colors. If you're seeing pigment grains that's a sign that the paint hasn't been thoroughlythinned yet, not that you are going overboard. Obviously you dont want to spitball paint on your figure, but try to keep your brush quite clearly wet, but with a sharp enough point to work with. Duncan (Games Workshop)'s highlighting vids do a good job showing how thick your paint should be, and how much you should use. 3. Don't use the entire brush! Related to the habit of mopping the brush around, it's easy to get carried away when applying base coats and start using the entire head of the brush to cover the model rather than the tip. This defeats the purpose of having different brushes and introduces uneven pressure to your WIP layer. Also can damage your brushes in the long run. 4. Highlights and drybrushing are friends! Less a mistake and more an observation; I've noticed that plenty of model and miniature tutorials tend to use one of the two exclusively (ex: Reaper encourages drybrushing, while Vallejo encourages highlighting). Your work will improve greatly once you start working both into your projects and learning their strengths/weaknesses. A good starting point is to find models with both organic and geometric shapes; drybrush the rougher areas (metal, bone, wood) and highlight the organic areas (skin, rubber, blood, water, ice, generally round areas). Not only will your work improve, you'll steadily develop cleaner techniques to apply the two without interfering with certain areas. Currently dogsitting for fam, but when I get back to my lightbox I'l show some pieces illustrating how this stuff has plagued me. Neurolimal fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Dec 22, 2017 |
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Dec 22, 2017 20:35
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Finished my second 165 point Batman crew, the dynamic duo in bright colors!
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Dec 22, 2017 20:42
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bonds0097 posted:Finished my second 165 point Batman crew, the dynamic duo in bright colors! These own. Are they from a batman specific game or are they heroclix? I've been interested in heroclix before because of how broad their selection is but they come prepainted and said paint is....usually not very flattering.
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Dec 22, 2017 20:47
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Neurolimal posted:These own. Are they from a batman specific game or are they heroclix? Batman has his own mini skirmish game now and the sculpts are baller.
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Dec 22, 2017 20:48
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mango sentinel posted:Batman has his own mini skirmish game now and the sculpts are baller. https://www.knightmodels.com/ makes both a street-level Batman skirmish game and a DC Skirmish game (with Superman and poo poo). 35mm scale minis (so taller than space marines but much skinnier due to more realistic proportions), used to be white metal but they're transitioning to all resin. I personally prefer the resin minis and their casting quality is great. Also, the rules are awesome and flavorful. I'm sparking enough interest locally that several people have bought starters and I'm super pumped for the game to catch on. It's played on a 3x3 and needs a lot of terrain (less terrain for DC).
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Dec 22, 2017 20:51
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That's pretty awesome! I'l definitely have to check them out when I get the chance, thanks for the info guys  Out of curiosity: are the actual sculpts of Heroclix any good? If you google you can find digital sculpts before they're made and they don't look bad, but then you see the finished product and...  I know Wizkids has the capacity for good sculpts, so I'm just curious if they exist underneath several pounds of lazy paint.
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Dec 22, 2017 20:56
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Hixson, I'm sure you've talked about it before but I absolutely love that red. What are you using for a recipe?
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Dec 22, 2017 21:04
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On HeroClix: the paint jobs don't help, but I think the sub Reaper rubbery plastic defies any attempts at holding fine detail.
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Dec 22, 2017 21:22
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