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OrangéJéllo posted:Bees are loathe to draw comb in boxes below their brood, the best example is to think of them as a fire in that they prefer to move up rather out or down. Welp it is a warre hive and empty boxes get added to the bottom so 
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Jul 28, 2017 19:56
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OrangéJéllo posted:Thats a brood disease, hard to tell from one picture but most likely either sacbrood This was really good info. I had a small brood comb break on me today so I decided to uncap a bunch of brood to check for signs of this and found a few that look exactly like Sacbrood. It was only 1 or 2 in about a 6" x 6" area. However while I was doing this I also spotted a Varoa mite so I guess it is obvious where the sacbrood came from. I guess I will have to go looking for a new queen and get ready to treat for mites before winter.
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Jul 29, 2017 21:16
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If you're in the US, your bees have varroa. It's only a matter of how much; very low levels of varroa you just accept as being normal.
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Aug 1, 2017 02:27
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My partner got stung Friday while we were adding some frames. One hospital trip later, we've got a nice hot and fresh appointment with an allergy specialist to see what might be done. All four of my hives are more aggressive this year. Why, bee god?!
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Aug 1, 2017 03:07
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Was up in the mountains by our place on sunday, and the pups were swimming. Meanwhile I was watching the bees along the streams shores. The area is under 4+ feet of snow every winter, gets to -20F on any given winter night ans thaw comes really late and snow comes early. It occured to me that putting up a swarm trap or two next spring up there might not be a horrible idea. Those bees must have some superpower genetics.
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Aug 1, 2017 04:22
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So moving the hive to the new location drastically cut down on the amount of bees near the house, so we decided to keep the hive after all. It was looking good, the new queen was laying, etc... and I woke up this morning to see the hive knocked over. At first I thought it somehow tipped but the cinderblocks it was on were straight when I went out to inspect. THANKFULLY whatever knocked the hive over didn't do more damage than that. The frames were still inside, and the bottom two deeps were still attached due to the proplis and so I righted them and picked up the honey super and put that back on top. I am kicking myself for not having bought an electric fence like I KNEW I should have since we live next to woods. I can only hope whatever came last night stays away until I can get the fence delivered and installed. Anyone have a recommendation for a good electric fence, I can't tell which of the ones on Amazon would be best for my needs. And anyone have a recommendation on keeping the bees safe between now and when I can install it? Opera Bitch fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Aug 7, 2017 |
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Aug 7, 2017 16:14
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Opera Bitch posted:So moving the hive to the new location drastically cut down on the amount of bees near the house, so we decided to keep the hive after all. It was looking good, the new queen was laying, etc... and I woke up this morning to see the hive knocked over. At first I thought it somehow tipped but the cinderblocks it was on were straight when I went out to inspect. THANKFULLY whatever knocked the hive over didn't do more damage than that. The frames were still inside, and the bottom two deeps were still attached due to the proplis and so I righted them and picked up the honey super and put that back on top. I am kicking myself for not having bought an electric fence like I KNEW I should have since we live next to woods. I can only hope whatever came last night stays away until I can get the fence delivered and installed. One of my hives was completely inverted a couple weeks ago. I can't figure out how that happened. We ain't go no bears. I can't see how knocking it off it's pedestal would have inverted it like it was. Not sure how long it had been that way. Inspected yesterday and still had some brood, but no evidence of eggs. So we're looking for a queen to run in there this week. :/ Not Amazon, but I have had one of these: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Fi-Shock-2-Mile-Solar-Electric-Fence-Charger/4747077 in my garden for the last 5-6 years. My garden is far enough away that this was way cheaper than running power down there. I had to replace the battery last year (it's just a common RC style rechargeable) but it's been solid. You do not want to hold on to this thing when it cycles.
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Aug 7, 2017 18:17
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People do vandalize hives. I don't know why, because that seems nigh on suicidal (not to mention incredibly lovely), but they do. If it's just the wind or a not very strong animal, you can probably foil that activity with a rachet strap or other tiedown.
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Aug 7, 2017 18:20
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POOL IS CLOSED posted:People do vandalize hives. I don't know why, because that seems nigh on suicidal (not to mention incredibly lovely), but they do. Honestly, after I went and looked at the hive while I was resetting I began to think that may have been the case given the thing was tipped over and not strewn about. The bird bath wasn't moved at all, the bottom board was still on the cinderblocks. We do have bears in the area and I would have thought that bears would have absolutely ripped the thing to shreds. We also live next to a main road and even though the hive is in the back of the yard you can see it if you walk by or drive slow enough. I really hope that isn't the case but who knows, people can be assholes. Not sure how to keep that from happening again. I just don't want to wake up tomorrow and see it knocked over AGAIN.
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Aug 7, 2017 19:00
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drewhead posted:One of my hives was completely inverted a couple weeks ago. I can't figure out how that happened. We ain't go no bears. I can't see how knocking it off it's pedestal would have inverted it like it was. Not sure how long it had been that way. Inspected yesterday and still had some brood, but no evidence of eggs. So we're looking for a queen to run in there this week. :/ What else needs to go with that to create a solid electric fence? I have looked at tutorials online but am still not exactly sure what parts I need to create one. We are going to order a security light and nighttime camera for the back corner, which are things we have been meaning to get when we first moved the hive there but didn't because we wanted to wait longer to see if moving the hive was going to work out. Since Ray ultimately decided to keep the hive due to decreased yard activity we are going to try and make the area a little more secure. Opera Bitch fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Aug 7, 2017 |
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Aug 7, 2017 19:03
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Opera Bitch posted:What else needs to go with that to create a solid electric fence? I have looked at tutorials online but am still not exactly sure what parts I need to create one. You'll need some wire, I prefer to use "Poly Tape" which is a ribbon like thing of woven plastic and wire. You'll need some fence insulators which come in different flavors depending on the kind of post you have. If you don't have any posts you can get plastic posts and skip the insulators. And you'll need a ground that you can wire up to the ground terminal (some metal stick that you can drive into the ground a few feet and attach some wire to). Think that's it.
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Aug 7, 2017 20:00
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drewhead posted:You'll need some wire, I prefer to use "Poly Tape" which is a ribbon like thing of woven plastic and wire. You'll need some fence insulators which come in different flavors depending on the kind of post you have. If you don't have any posts you can get plastic posts and skip the insulators. And you'll need a ground that you can wire up to the ground terminal (some metal stick that you can drive into the ground a few feet and attach some wire to). Think that's it. Ok, ground terminal was the piece I was lost on. Is that the same as the energizer? Or it is something else? I assume you attach the ground to the ground terminal using the same poly tape? If anything this experience has reaffirmed to me you can never be too cautious and focused on security.
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Aug 7, 2017 20:04
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Opera Bitch posted:Ok, ground terminal was the piece I was lost on. Is that the same as the energizer? Or it is something else? I assume you attach the ground to the ground terminal using the same poly tape? Ground and Energizer are separate terminals. They go separate places, you're not building a loop. The Energizer is what you affix the polytape to (mine has a wing bolt with two washers). The ground is just that. I have a 3 ft piece of rebar like material that I drilled a hole in and attach a spare piece of jacked strand wire I had laying around with a nut and bolt. You I suppose you could use poly tape but you don't need to. So while you are physically trying to protect an area that you think of as connected, you wont actually be making a closed circuit here.
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Aug 7, 2017 20:28
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I left the side light on in my yard and the hive has been undisturbed the last two nights and the bees are going about their normal business. Tomorrow the ratchet strap to secure the hive and security light for the yard I ordered should be coming in. After reading some online forums I am thinking a deer bumped into the hive and knocked it over. The night it was damaged it was pitch black outside and the hive is in the corner of the yard where the deer sometimes sleep/walk through the yard at night, and there are signs of them near the wild blackberry bushes which are also in that corner.
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Aug 9, 2017 15:53
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I've had deer get close enough to the hives in my yard to possibly rub against them. Also, wish I could have got a varroa pic this weekend but I couldn't focus my phone camera while wearing gear (moved some strange hives and the bees didn't seem that happy about it). But yeah, I think I've said it before and others too, depending on where you live, I'd just assume you have varroa and treat than let it kill your hive (and if it gets too established, it will kill the hive).
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Aug 10, 2017 02:38
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Witnessed my first robbing battle yesterday evening. Thankfully I had blocked much of the entrance a couple weeks ago to make it easier to boot the drones when the time comes. Was interesting seeing them surround and pounce on invaders, then tumble in a little bee ball off the ledge then return to the battle. Only a small number were writhing on the ground due to injuries. I need to remember to take a peek this evening when I get home to see what aftermath there may be(e). Hopefully the girls did not suffer too many losses.
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Aug 25, 2017 21:36
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Sad to say it but I had to put my hive on Craigslist today. I hadn't gotten an electric fence yet because I tried a motion sensitive light in the hopes a deer happened to brush up against the hive by accident in the dark, but the hive got knocked over again. Thankfully I ratchet strapped it so I just needed to prop it back up. Unfortunately as I was bending over my suit pressed against the back of my leg and a bee stung through and got me. It is a good thing the stinger didn't get stuck to pump in more venom because I had an allergic reaction, and now that I am pregnant I don't want to take any risks. In addition my husband got stung raking around the pool last week. With both of us reacting to the stings now the hive isn't a maintainable hobby. It's a bummer given the time and money we have invested but it is what it is. It was nice to try it at least!
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Aug 31, 2017 00:58
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I'm sorry, Opera Bitch! I hope you find a good person for the hive. What a bummer. My husband is also severely allergic now. We had that nice little ER visit earlier this month.  Since it's not reached anaphylaxis yet and he wants to keep working hives with me, he's pursuing the apivenom allergy therapy. I don't know how that's going to turn out yet. I've been stung twice this year and had only the most minor reactions, but I'm still keeping an epinephrine autoinjector around anyway. Can't be too careful.
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Aug 31, 2017 01:50
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Hello all, I just learned that there is a beekeeper thread here. I'm a rather new beekeeper, beeing in my second year. Started with one hive, currently have two hives plus two Ableger/Offspring??? (drat, I need to find some german=>english translator regarding bee stuff....), allthough one of them is rather weak. All hives are Carnica. Currently feeding them with both apifonda (sugar paste stuff) and liquid sugar stuff (3:2 sugar/water, especially the weaker hives prefer the liquid stuff) to prepare them for the second varoa-treatment (doing it with 65% ant-acid with a liebig-dispenser). I am quite sure you don't understand most of the stuff I just said because I don't know the english translations for all the stuff yet, but I promise to learn them. Basically, I wanted to say: hi 
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Sep 5, 2017 18:18
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 Tuo!I think the ant-acid is what we'd call formic acid. Ableger are what my area calls "splits," if you split a stronger colony. (Or nucs, if you took just a few frames out to make a 3 - 5 frame miniature hive for sale or breeding.) The liquid sugar solutions are syrup. Are your Carnicas more aggressive this year?
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Sep 5, 2017 20:24
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POOL IS CLOSED posted:
Can't say the are aggressive at all, to be honest. We had a rather bad year over here, because during May we had a very, very unusual weather. Freezing tempeatures for two weeks, which basically killed all blossoms from fruit trees, almonds etc. That's why we also had nearly no honey during that period. I made the first split of our main hive this year, but we made a beginners mistake. I didn't check the nest (is this the right term?) which was given to us. The bottom part had a crack, at the back. So after splitting the hive (two brood frames, one food frame, many bees) it was beeing robbed by another hive which simply walked into the "back door". Typical beginners fault. So the first split was robbed within 48 hours, and we didn't react fast enough. Two months later, the have was strong again, producing a couple of new queen cells, basically preparing for swarming. The problem was that the hive also completely ignored our drone frames. While they accepted them, they didn't use them for drone brood (and thus for removing it to reduce mites), but filled them up with honey, so we also couldn't really control drone population. So we decided to create a second split in June. This one developed quite good, the new queen started laying eggs quickly. But somehow, they "got stuck". They never went over four frames, and currently they are hard at work keeping wasps out. We already have the opening hole closed down so only two bees fit through it to help them control the wasps, but they still are rather weak. The other three hives are very well. We are currently feeding the winter food, and plan to do so for another two weeks. After that we will do the second formic acid treatment, and we will decide then wether we reunite the weak split with the main hive (killing the new queen before), because the formic acid should irritate them enough so that the two hives won't notice that they don't belong to each other (otherwise we might just use the "newspaper" method). But I see this as a last resort, and actually don't plan to do that. I hope that the weak split hive gets its stuff together and the queen gets more into laying eggs (drat this is emberassing if you don't know the proper terms in english :/), because the hive itself has everything it needs...enough pollen, enough food, currently a very friendly weather.... If I get through the winter with all four hives, I'll be the happies beekeeper, but I actually hope to get over it with at least three of our four hives. Current indicators point to a quick, cold autumn/winter over here. BTW: we have one incredibly aggressive carnica hive at our beekeepers club. They hit me many dozen times this year. To the point, that we deciced to exchange the queen. Fun thing: when we opened the hive to kill the queen, the hive was totally calm. We also didn't find the queen (the club doesn't mark their queens). When we opened the hive a week later to kill the queen, they again where calm as gently caress. Ever since then, the hive is rather okayish....still aggressive, but far from what they used to be. Guess they just need to know what will happen to their egg-machine if they keep beeing assholes 
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Sep 5, 2017 21:17
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tuo posted:drat this is emberassing if you don't know the proper terms in english :/ your english is fine, dude, don't even worry about it
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Sep 5, 2017 21:23
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Cease to Hope posted:your english is fine, dude, don't even worry about it Yeah this!
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Sep 5, 2017 21:24
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Cease to Hope posted:your english is fine, dude, don't even worry about it Thanks Still feels stupid if you don't know what the correct for "Eilage" is, the state the Weisel/Queen is in when she lays eggs, but I'll do my best to make my post halfway readable BTW to any one interested: I am currently using the Zander-format for our hives, which is one of two very typical frame formats over here. Allthough I already have everything planned and available to move to ZaDant, which is basically the same as Dadant, but based on Zander format. Advantage is that we don't have to switch out all our nests/houses (how do you call them? it's "Beute" over here, if a fellow german can help me), but can simply extend the brood rooms with a ZaDant-spacer and use larger frames. We plan to do this with the new split hives next year and maybe even with our strongest hive if it gets over the winter fine. Reason is I absolutely don't like the way the Zander-nests handle, because you have two brood rooms, and during swarm control, you have to rip the whole hive in half every time you do swarm control. I think I prefer the Dadant way of only having one brood room with larger frames, thus we plan to move to Zadant-frames/format next year.
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Sep 5, 2017 21:31
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Just checked one of my hives after being away for two weeks. It appears the sausage fest is over. There was a ton of dead drones below the entrance, most were just sitting there so I guess the ladies just got sick of feeding them and kicked them out. Still quite a bit of brood in various stages of development and even spotted the queen wandering around on one frame. Lots of honey being packed away. Going to do the sugar shake mite counts this weekend to see if they need treatment before it starts to get cold.
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Sep 7, 2017 03:17
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tuo posted:Thanks I think Beute is the hive body. If it's the bigger one that houses the brood, we usually refer to them as "deeps," for deep hive bodies, or sometimes as brood chambers. I actually like having two deeps for brood on my hives. Eilage would be an egg-laying or fertile queen (I mean, yeah, the queen can lay drones without sperm, but whatever). I haven't actually heard of the Zander style here, so I've got to look that up. Are there any northern latitude beeks using fumagilin-B? I haven't used it before and I'm trying to determine if I should start feeding it right away or if I should wait a little further into fall.
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Sep 9, 2017 04:57
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We currently are unsure of what to do with our weak split. They obviously are getting robbed by wasps. We already have a mesh in front of the hive opening so only two bees can pass. This helped tremendously, but the split is still weak as gently caress. They currently sit on four frames, and have most of them filled up with not yet closed-up honey (we are constantly feeding with sugar sirup, 3 parts sugar, 2 parts water, in a feeding frame within the hive). The number of bees is rather low, many of them have fallen to wasps. The queen is obviously present, but the brood nest is only about the size of a small hand on two frames, plus a couple of brood cells spread all over the other frames, which worries me. Obviously it's a young queen, three months old, but she still seems to lay eggs all over the place. One of the frames also obviously was robbed by another bee hive because a small part of the honey combs was bitten out. The bees in there seem normal and are working, but it is a very low number of bees, and a worryingly low number of brood cells. Autumn just begun, and we now would have to do varroa treatment (we treated all the other hives the first time, but spared the split, so now the second treatment has to be done). The sugar sirup we put in there is emptied very fast...like three liters every day, which leads me to another idea that they are still beeing robbed by other hives. There are quite a lot of "black" bees walking around the hive, which are not attacked by the other bees, where I am not sure if these are survivors of the wasp robbery or bees which still fight robbers constantly (thus getting black/loosing the pelt). To make thinks even worse, we found a single cell with chalkbrood this weekend. Only a single cell, also no chalkbrood in the waste underneat the hive. I have no experience to judge wether we should kill the queen and reunite the split with it's origin hive. The number of bees is rather low, so I guess it won't matter to the origin's hive wether they have five hundred bees more or less, as they are quite strong. What would you all do with this split? A professional beekeeper told me he doesn't treat splits which can't defend themselves against wasps, as they won't be strong enough the coming summer, but I am no professional beekeeper and thus not interested in how much honey I get, I am interested in keeping the little buggers alive. What would you do with this split? Wait another two weeks, do varroa treatment and hope for the best? Or is the split doomed to die? It looks like winter is coming soon over here, so no long and warm late summer.
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Sep 11, 2017 20:15
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I'd be worried about merging them with another hive given the presence of chalkbrood. If the queen is laying in a bad brood pattern, she may be a loss at this point in the year. The split is best counted as a loss; they're going to be too weak to overwinter.
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Sep 11, 2017 23:49
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POOL IS CLOSED posted:I'd be worried about merging them with another hive given the presence of chalkbrood. If the queen is laying in a bad brood pattern, she may be a loss at this point in the year. The split is best counted as a loss; they're going to be too weak to overwinter. Yeah, I thought so. Well, I'll continue feeding them and will check again in two weeks, if more chalkbrood is present. If it is, I guess I will have to seal it's fate. Stupid wasps, but that's nature, I guess, and what we get for breeding mostly harmless bees :/
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Sep 12, 2017 07:18
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Our two hives have been doing great this year. One is definitely stronger than the other, but both queens are laying in the tightest brood pattern I've seen. Like solid frames of 80% brood. I'm hoping to split them in the spring. I do have one question, the "weaker" hive does not seem to like building out comb. We had a frame break apart earlier this year and they haven't touched the "used" partially drawn frame I replaced it with. Same for the honey super, they refused to touch the new comb in it. The other hive has built out every piece of frame I've put in it. Odd?
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Sep 12, 2017 23:48
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So we found out what was the the big(gest) problem with our split, apart from the wasp invasion. Wax moths! This also explains the extremely spotty brood, and what we identified as chalk brodd simply was a single brood cell with everything around eaten by wax moths which the hive no longer cared for, and must have died shortly before hatching...it had a strange, white look. After consulting a more experienced beekeeper, he looked through our other hives and one of them is so strong that they actually no longer know where to put the bees. We took a brood frame with bees from this hive as well as a food frame with bees and put them in the split. Then moved the split to my home garden, about 4kms away from our other hives. The strong hive has already replenished the missing food frame. Now nine days later, the split has a good bee population, the brood frame hatched nearly completely (allthough we had some cold nights and days and I feared that this was a big mistake). No wasps in sight, and it looks like the new bee crew is already hard at work repairing the hosed up frames. They now sit on all six currently available "frame alleys" (that's what Google tells me is the translation for Wabengasse, which I guess is totally wrong). We feed them three liters sugar sirup every two or three days, which is now happily transfered to food frames. I'll check on sunday if the queen is now able to create a closed brood frame, with the help of all the newfound bee-friendos. With a little bit of luck, they'll manage it, our friend told us. If not, the other hive is so strong that he said they won't miss this single brood frame and the bees we transferred too much....they had six brood frames, covered 99% with brood...the queen in there is an egg-laying bee-machine....actually haven't seen similar brood frames before...every single cell filled with brood. tuo fucked around with this message at 10:33 on Sep 22, 2017 |
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Sep 22, 2017 10:29
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Also currently doing our second varroa treatment, should be finished this sunday. Our two strong, young hives have a very large amount of bees, and the second hive body is filled with ten perfect food frames. Guess they should get over the winter fine if nothing strange happens. Our older hive - which had some major problems during summer, queen stopped laying eggs suddenly - was heavily infected with varroa, like > 50 falling a day. After the first varroa treatment, everything changed, and the queen started laying eggs like a madman. They currently only sit in one hive body, with about three to four brood frames (1/3 food, 2/3 brood) plus the outer food frames. They started putting brood in the lower hive body again two weeks ago. Will check this sunday after the second varroa treatment what's up with them, but it looks promising that they have a chance to make it through the winter. This was the result of the first varroa treatment of mentioned hive. They were reduced to actually sitting in only three alleys...now they are back to eleven (nine in upper body, two in lower two weeks ago) 
tuo fucked around with this message at 10:43 on Sep 22, 2017 |
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Sep 22, 2017 10:38
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the spyder posted:Our two hives have been doing great this year. One is definitely stronger than the other, but both queens are laying in the tightest brood pattern I've seen. Like solid frames of 80% brood. I'm hoping to split them in the spring. I do have one question, the "weaker" hive does not seem to like building out comb. We had a frame break apart earlier this year and they haven't touched the "used" partially drawn frame I replaced it with. Same for the honey super, they refused to touch the new comb in it. The other hive has built out every piece of frame I've put in it. Odd? Similar here. Our strong young hive builds out everything you put into it within days. The old hive only touches the frames in immidiate need, and ignores everything they currently don't need. Strange, because normally the young bees want to get rid of the wax they produce, I was told. Well, if we need something build out, we put it in the strong hive, wait two days, and pull it out, ready to go into the hive that needs it. Since we started beekeeping not too long ago, we sadly don't have a cache of build out frames from the years before.
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Sep 22, 2017 10:46
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So we sold the hive and it was picked up yesterday. It was a bummer to sell it, but not as big of a bummer of having my husband swell up and doped on benadryl for a few days each time he got stung. Not to mention my own increased reaction to stings. We also just have no time to put in an electric fence ourselves given how busy we are. Thankfully the guy who bought it, despite just getting into beekeeping, has a friend who works at an outdoor exotic flower/plant growing business and is going to keep the hive there and mentor him. So while I am sad, they went to a place they will be better off. Thanks everyone for the advice you've given me during the time we had them!
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Sep 24, 2017 22:14
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Just putting it out there, but I volunteer if anybody in western Washington needs a beekeeping indentured servant. I want to learn the ways of the bees but have no room to do it myself.
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Oct 20, 2017 23:45
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Picked up a hive today. A coworker is clearing a lot and found it when cutting a tree up for firewood. It was hard to a get a good look in the hive as it was pouring rain but the only cut off the bottom inch or so of comb. We cut a chunk off of the tree below where the hive ended and took both pieces back home. I covered the openings with cardboard to keep the bees inside. Not sure how big the colony is but hopefully they make it through to the spring so we can get them into a box. Going to give them a bunch of syrup and hopefully that makes up for any losses.  helno fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Nov 3, 2017 |
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Nov 3, 2017 03:01
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Dat’s a nice gum you got dere.
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Nov 7, 2017 05:54
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So how's everyone doing? My three hives are doing drat fine over the winter, did the second varroa treatment with oxalic acid three weeks ago, and the two strong hives were sitting at 8,5 frame alleys, the weaker one at 6,5, all of them with quite a lot of food. The split we did looks like it is basically done for...it only created a very small (1,5 frames) food resorvious. We are feeding it with honey+powdered sugar as much as we can, but they are currently sitting at only 1 frame alley, so I guess they won't make it. Every experienced beekeeper told us to write them off, but we still wanna try it, allthough I am quite sure it's a loosing battle. The other three seem very cool and good, though. I'm confident they might make it to march.
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Dec 25, 2017 16:52
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Both of my top bars have bees in there that buzz when I tap on the side. Haven't disturbed the log at all. Nothing I can do if they are done for anyways.
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Dec 26, 2017 02:15
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Drunk ordered the box of bees I've wanted for three years last night. Luckily I live close to a beekeeping store (Beekind) and have a lot of friends who have kept bees locally. I'm going to put the hive out near a blackberry patch below the vineyard. Hopefully the ladies will like their new home.
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Jan 25, 2018 22:05
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