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Jaded Burnout posted:Okay so whiteboards. Or blackboards actually, this question applies to both. If you reduce your requirements to just two boards, then they will counterweight themselves. If you want multiples, then yes, multiple rails and spring counterweights probably, like these http://www.pullmanmfg.com/window-balances-standard-balances/
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Dec 21, 2017 19:58
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HycoCam posted:Way back in the day, borescope cameras used to be right around a $1,000 for a decent one. Now they are less than $25. Sometimes you need to tape the camera to something like a coat hanger to get them where you want to look, but they are awesome at looking in places you can't fit your head. The thing that bugs me about these is the reliance on some third-party app. Do you use an Android phone by any chance?
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Dec 21, 2017 20:01
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Wasabi the J posted:Worth doing once, do it right. I wouldn't want my shower and sink doodoo water dripping in my wall, and I'll be damned if it is going to be repaired by rubber after they hosed up my wall. Counterpoint: there's essentially no pressure in a drain line. Sleeves and hose clamps around the area, move on.
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Dec 21, 2017 20:13
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Mr. Mambold posted:Counterpoint: there's essentially no pressure in a drain line. Sleeves and hose clamps around the area, move on.
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Dec 21, 2017 20:24
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Slugworth posted:It'll do, but again, this was a professional loving something up. It should be corrected properly. If I knock over a vase in someone's home, I'm paying to replace it, not just handing them back a vase that's been super glued back together. Ding ding ding. You paid so that poo poo wouldn't get hosed up and it got hosed up. Even if it's not major, it's professional courtesy to do the best job you can, and this probably shouldn't apply more that when a mistake gets made. ,
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Dec 21, 2017 20:30
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Slugworth posted:It'll do, but again, this was a professional loving something up. It should be corrected properly. If I knock over a vase in someone's home, I'm paying to replace it, not just handing them back a vase that's been super glued back together. So what do you want, to cut out the bad section, put in two joints and pipe dope it together? Or would you take out the whole pipe? Because at that point you're getting into lawsuit land.
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Dec 21, 2017 21:20
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Mr. Mambold posted:So what do you want, to cut out the bad section, put in two joints and pipe dope it together? Or would you take out the whole pipe? Because at that point you're getting into lawsuit land.
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Dec 21, 2017 21:35
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Slugworth posted:The former sounds fine to me. And I get that's difficult to do mid-run, but you get one of those nifty little low profile couplings, even if it means a trip to a supply house instead of the closest Home Depot. But truthfully, I'm much more concerned about damage to the wall and cabinets than the pipe fix - it's just emblematic of the level of care put into fixing a screwup. Right. I think if you're reasonable with the contractor, he's much more likely to do the 'right' thing replacing the cabinet, etc. and making all the rest of it right. I've been on both sides of it.
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Dec 21, 2017 21:39
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HycoCam posted:Grab one of these and lower it into the wall cavities. Taking pictures of any mold/damage is as easy as a pushing the button on your phone. hell, $40 for a wireless one, this is just a fun buy. thanks for calling it out. Slugworth posted:The former sounds fine to me. And I get that's difficult to do mid-run, but you get one of those nifty little low profile couplings, even if it means a trip to a supply house instead of the closest Home Depot. But truthfully, I'm much more concerned about damage to the wall and cabinets than the pipe fix - it's just emblematic of the level of care put into fixing a screwup. this is basically the crux of what i'm trying to suss out here. would i prefer this dude to hold his work to a high standard? totally. but i'm also realistic -- cynical? -- enough to know i'm going to get something middle of the road. my interest in drawing out a fight, or worse, a lawsuit, is low. it sounds like some sleeves and a hose clamp will get me through life re: the drain leaks. but is my kid going to die from black mold allergens in 10 years? does my floor cabinet rot collapse like a wet newspaper in a year? this definitely falls into uncharted territory for me, and i'm not sure i'm making the best decision in those regards. right now, my head is grab an inspector to identify what i'm dealing with and run an endoscope camera to see how bad the damage is in the wall below counter height. (since right now all identified damage is well above it.) if we're dealing with crazy mold species or have inner wall damage, press the issue much harder with the contractor. am i crazy? a push over? 
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Dec 21, 2017 23:13
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I wouldn't waste money on a home inspector. I would get the original contractor to reimburse you for having a mold remediation company come on out.
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Dec 21, 2017 23:29
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impossible! posted:hey, folks. dealing with the dumbest situation in the world, trying to see how deep down this rabbit hole to go. He hosed it up; he should fix it properly. Ferncos are suitable if push comes to shove, but they should install unions. There may be an issue if the pipe is well-fixed & can't be slid open a bit. impossible! posted:2. i've never had to deal with mold, and the wife is bugged out. inspection-worthy? as far as i can tell there's nothing visible anymore, but that doesn't account for air or hidden areas (in-wall, behind adjacent cabinets). Empty a can of Lysol spray in there & seal it back up. Mold is not nearly as large of a problem as you may have been led to believe. Once the water source is gone & the area is allowed to dry out, it can't spread. Lysol is a good hedge against worry (as is 1% bleach in a spray bottle). Once the drywall is back up, what remaining mold there may be is isolated away from the living space.
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Dec 22, 2017 00:36
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The drains from my roof run inside my garage and out through the wall. This is currently galvanized round drain pipe. I added two more drains to the roof and was going to run it all in ABS or PVC. Does this need to follow any plumbing codes since it technically is indoors? Red is what's there. I'm adding blue. Green is where I would put cleanouts, but I probably don't need the bottom ones since it's a 1' section to the outside where it just dumps on the ground. But it would be easier to just use a flexible coupling rather than a true cleanout, and if leaves or something gets stuck in the pipe, I could just undo the coupling. 
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Dec 22, 2017 01:00
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impossible! posted:hey, folks. dealing with the dumbest situation in the world, trying to see how deep down this rabbit hole to go. Just use your phone to take a picture of the back of the drywall. If there's mold anywhere it'll definitely be there. Note that pink insulation is *super* itchy if you get it on your skin.
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Dec 22, 2017 02:13
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Let's say I want to build an outdoor kitchen out of pressure-treated pine, I have a built-in grill that is actually rated for that (Tek), and I want to slap some granite on there. Does anybody have any rules of thumb for how far apart to run 2x4 joists across it to support that? How about how far apart I can space the 4x4 posts? I'm pretty sure due to the placement of everything that I'm going to wind up with appropriate spacing just from that, but there's a long section that maybe could benefit from some extra support.
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Dec 22, 2017 05:46
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Qwijib0 posted:If you reduce your requirements to just two boards, then they will counterweight themselves. This is the conclusion I'm coming to. I'll have to see if there's a way to do it with two boards where they're not in the way of each other at writing height but both accessible.
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Dec 22, 2017 08:22
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wesleywillis posted:I need to replace my thermostat. On is off and Off is on. I hope the thermostat was just a piece of poo poo reject, and not the wires reversed or something. Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?
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Dec 22, 2017 14:48
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Mr. Mambold posted:Counterpoint: there's essentially no pressure in a drain line. Sleeves and hose clamps around the area, move on. Until the current or a future homeowner gets the idea to clean out a stuck drain with compressed air. That's immediately what I thought of when I saw the picture of the repair.
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Dec 22, 2017 15:30
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Qwijib0 posted:If you reduce your requirements to just two boards, then they will counterweight themselves. I'm pretty sure you can have any number of boards counterweight themselves if you're okay with exactly one being down at any time.
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Dec 22, 2017 17:50
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wesleywillis posted:Bueller? You need one that's switchable heat/cool since in the summer you need the blower to come on above a certain temperature, and in the winter, below it. I'm assuming line voltage (so be sure to cut the power when swapping it out). What's the current model # https://www.amazon.com/Emerson-1A11-2-Line-Voltage-Thermostat/dp/B0035UEPJE/ Qwijib0 fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Dec 22, 2017 |
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Dec 22, 2017 17:51
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KillHour posted:I'm pretty sure you can have any number of boards counterweight themselves if you're okay with exactly one being down at any time. Is this like the thing with the chicken and the fox on a boat
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Dec 22, 2017 18:10
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Qwijib0 posted:You need one that's switchable heat/cool since in the summer you need the blower to come on above a certain temperature, and in the winter, below it. Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure of the model number of the current one, but it has nothing to switch between heat/cool, since the building supplies the heat/ac and it is switched seasonally. The current one just has an on/off fan speed and temperature adjustment. This one looks pretty much what I've got, but doesn't have the switch that goes between heat/cool: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-T6...ostat+heat+only
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Dec 22, 2017 23:42
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Jaded Burnout posted:Is this like the thing with the chicken and the fox on a boat It's actually pretty simple.  Red is rope, blue is moving pullies attached to the blackboards, black is fixed pullies. Assuming only 1 blue pully isn't at the top of its travel, pulling down on either of the other two will make that pully move up with the same force. The only tricky bit is figuring out how to pull down on a blackboard in the back because moving a blackboard up will make the other two pullies lower half way each. I guess that's fine though because you could repeat the process until the one you want is in front and then just pull that one down to bring all the others up. It should stay properly weighted in any configuration with any number of blackboards/pullies. KillHour fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Dec 23, 2017 |
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Dec 23, 2017 00:25
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We have a couple of windows that have broken springs, the ones that keep the window from slamming down when you raise them. Are these something that can be replaced or would that necessitate the entire window being replaced?
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Dec 23, 2017 05:02
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Rubiks Pubes posted:We have a couple of windows that have broken springs, the ones that keep the window from slamming down when you raise them. Are these something that can be replaced or would that necessitate the entire window being replaced? It can be done. You'll have to remove the trim from around the window. Got a putty knife? How about a utility knife if they're glued to the wall with paint?
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Dec 23, 2017 07:10
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kid sinister posted:It can be done. You'll have to remove the trim from around the window. Got a putty knife? How about a utility knife if they're glued to the wall with paint? Yes I have plenty of tools so that shouldn’t be an issue. Are the springs specific to the make of window or can I get them online or at Home Depot or something? I did a cursory look in the window parts section at Home Depot and didn’t see anything.
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Dec 23, 2017 15:49
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Rubiks Pubes posted:Yes I have plenty of tools so that shouldn’t be an issue. Are the springs specific to the make of window or can I get them online or at Home Depot or something? I did a cursory look in the window parts section at Home Depot and didn’t see anything. You might have to speak with the manufacturer. Measure your windows too. You could also speak with the window installers if you still know who put them in. They can fix broken window parts.
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Dec 23, 2017 18:24
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So I've got the attached thermostat in my house. Lately, it's getting to where no matter what temperature you set it on, the furnace won't kick on until it's several degrees below the set point and then when it does it runs and runs and runs until it's anywhere from 5 to 15 degrees above the set point. Turning the thermostat to off won't stop the furnace during one of those heating cycles. Is this a bad thermostat or is it symptomatic of another problem?
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Dec 26, 2017 18:16
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Have you tried changing the battery in it? I’ve gotten that with thermostats before if the battery is going bad.
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Dec 26, 2017 19:56
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An insulation question. I have a living space (right now being used as a home office) above our garage. This room gets incredibly cold during the Canadian winter, and really hot during the summer. Not a pleasant room to be in, despite the fact that I do most of my work in there  . What's the best way to fix this- should I be insulating the flooring in the home office (and maybe just re-do the flooring while I'm at it?) or should I rip off the ceiling sheetrock in the garage and sprayfoam the poo poo out of the garage ceiling?
melon cat fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Dec 27, 2017 |
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Dec 27, 2017 01:13
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melon cat posted:An insulation question. I have a living space (right now being used as a home office) above our garage. This room gets incredibly cold during the Canadian winter, and really hot during the summer. Not a pleasant room to be in, despite the fact that I do most of my work in there Sheetrock is easier to replace than a floor and subfloor, plus all that poo poo would be just falling into the garage, and I bet you don't care if your garage gets messy. Even if you do, you can clean a garage with just a broom. You could just get insulation bats to wedge between the joists. That would be a lot cleaner than spray foam.
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Dec 27, 2017 01:25
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kid sinister posted:Sheetrock is easier to replace than a floor and subfloor, plus all that poo poo would be just falling into the garage, and I bet you don't care if your garage gets messy. Even if you do, you can clean a garage with just a broom. You could just get insulation bats to wedge between the joists. That would be a lot cleaner than spray foam.
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Dec 27, 2017 01:31
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melon cat posted:Those are all great points. Thanks for the info. I'm totally new to working with insulation- what should I be looking for in a "good" insulation product? I just want to make sure that I buy the better stuff. For a vertical install with exposed joists, you can't use loose fill insulation. You'd be stuck with spray, rigid or batts. Since you already have up sheetrock, you could just poke some holes in each joist cavity and blow in insulation. Before you do anything though, I'd just poke a hole in drywall up there and check to see if there is indeed any insulation in between floors there. You could insulate your garage door a bit better too if it isn't done already. They make weatherstripping kits for them. I'd start with one of those, trapped air itself is a pretty good insulator. If you're in the garage a lot during the winter, they also make foam panels if yours is a sectional door.
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Dec 27, 2017 06:37
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If the garage space in unconditioned and the office space above is conditioned, you should put insulation in the floor joists. If the the garage space is conditioned along with the office space, you can keep the insulation envelope in the exterior walls of the garage. Is your office space within the attic space of the garage? Like above the wall top plate and ceiling joists, below the rafters? Are there knee walls? If so, search for cathedral ceiling insulation techniques to get an idea. What you probably have is a partial cathedral ceiling with knee walls and a small unconditioned partial attic space. Best practice is to closed cell spray foam the rafter space full from roof sheathing to inner drywall. Acts as a vapor barrier and air seal, so no need for eave to ridge ventilation of the underside of the roof sheathing. This creates a “hot roof”, so it may (but probably doesn’t) shorten shingle life and warranty. If this bothers you, you can use thin, firm sheets of foam board or particleboard to maintain eave to ridge ventilation. Make sure you air seal properly so the air from the eaves isn’t infiltrating the envelope. If you have access to a knee wall space and the partial attic space, you can blow in slow expanding spray foam into the partial cathedral ceiling area without removing the drywall. Next best practice is to combine rigid foam board and batt or blown insulation. Rigid foam board goes up between the rafters under the sheathing with a minimum 1-2” eave to ridge ventilation space. Air seal all the edges using can foam and tape. Air seal the area near the eave vent. Use batt or blown insulation to fill the space between the foam board and drywall. If you pulled the drywall off, use a vapor barrier under the new drywall. This could also be done without removing the cathedral ceiling drywall if you have access from above and below in the knee wall space. If you just use fiberglass batts 1-2” thinner than the rafter depth with no air sealed foam boards, the eave to ridge ventilation air washing over the insulation will severely reduce it’s R value and cause air infiltration into the living space. That’s why this method is not longer preferred. Dense packed blown cellulose with no ventilation is used in some regions like New England, but most believe it causes moisture problems on the underside of the roof from vapor condensing on the cold sheathing. The difficulty in air sealing a ventilated cathedral ceiling is why an unventilated “hot roof” has become the preferred method. Maintaining ventilation channels in anything but a simple two sided gable roof is much harder. If warm, moist inside air works its way to the underside of the cold roof sheathing, it condenses. Ventilation channels help dry this, and good vapor barriers and air sealing help prevent it. If you do have knee wall spaces, don’t use the old technique of having that area outside the insulation envelope. Keep the insulation in the rafters and exterior walls, bringing the knee wall space into the conditioned space. Even inside the knee wall space, the batt insulation between the rafters needs to be enclosed with an air barrier like drywall. Batt insulation is most effective when it’s enclosed on both sides so air is trapped and not blowing through it. Finally, insulating 8” rafter cathedral ceilings to attic code minimum can be difficult. Even spray foam can’t achieve R50 in 7.5”. Inadequately insulated attics can cause ice dams because the roof deck gets too warm. You may need to furr out your rafters to make the insulation space thicker. goku chewbacca fucked around with this message at 08:01 on Dec 27, 2017 |
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Dec 27, 2017 07:37
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I'm planning to replace an electrical outlet in my apartment. This is new for me but seems like it should be fairly straightforward, and I'm proceeding as cautiously as I know how to. Anyway, it looks like the outlets in this room are wired in series: no pigtails in the outlet boxes, just a pair of wires running into the receptacle and a pair running out from it to the next box. From what I can tell, that sort of configuration should look like this: In fact, that's what another outlet in the room looks like. The outlet I want to replace, however, is wired like this:  (Not shown: the break-off fins are intact.) The outlet appears to work, at least to power a lamp. Wiring it that way seems wrong to me, but I'm not clear on what the consequences are. Does it not actually matter? If it does matter, is there any good reason for this configuration, and are there any potential consequences to rewiring it to what appears to be the correct configuration? The replacement is a switch/outlet combination, and it doesn't seem to support being wired in series in this way. Is there any problem with putting a pigtail in that box when nothing else is wired that way? It seems like that should work, but I don't want to make any assumptions.
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Dec 27, 2017 11:35
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Toast Museum posted:
I'm not super familiar with US wiring so don't take this as gospel, but from the looks of it you still have the same live and neutral terminals wired, it's just the current is travelling the other way over the bridge between the sockets. I can't see it making any difference at all, though that's said with the plastic obscuring the routing underneath. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Dec 27, 2017 |
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Dec 27, 2017 16:21
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Both of those outlets are wired exactly the same. What am I missing here?
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Dec 27, 2017 16:32
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eddiewalker posted:Both of those outlets are wired exactly the same. What am I missing here? The second one has live and neutral travelling in opposite directions; white goes top to bottom while black goes bottom to top.
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Dec 27, 2017 16:35
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Jaded Burnout posted:The second one has live and neutral travelling in opposite directions; white goes top to bottom while black goes bottom to top. The screws are parallel on each side. There’s no difference.
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Dec 27, 2017 16:44
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What is a normal amount of water for my pressure release valve pipe to be putting out? Is anything more than zero a problem? I'm currently losing about a quart every 2 days.
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Dec 27, 2017 17:13
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eddiewalker posted:The screws are parallel on each side. There’s no difference. That makes sense. I couldn't put my finger on a problem beyond aesthetics, but I don't want to make any more assumptions than I have to. Hypothetically, what if it were wired that way with the break-off fins removed?
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Dec 27, 2017 17:17
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