|
The rears were cake, honestly. Helped that unlike the front I didn't need to replace any bushings. Just lift it up, pull the sway bar links, pull the shocks, then use a floor jack to lift one side of the axle up and make the other droop. I sold the old budget boost and bought a set of Zone extended rear sway bar links because the factory ones are way too short for this much lift. I might replace the front links since their bushings are pretty fried. JKS track bar showed up yesterday. Might try to throw it on before the weekend.
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2017 04:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 19:07 |
|
|
Good deal, I'll be interested in your thoughts, as I'm getting one in a pay or two. Hope the install isn't too interesting!
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2017 10:18
|
|
|
Still haven't done either the JKS trackbar or the rear sway bar links, even though I've got them both sitting here. I did manage to get the garage cleaned out enough (again) to take the C10 for a spin. Noticed things rattling a bit more than usual and I knew the seat mounting wasn't great so I crawled under the truck to see what needed to be tightened... One of the bolts holding the transmission crossmember in was nearly completely backed out.  It's one of four so a grand total of nothing would've happened, but the other three were also pretty loose. They also didn't have any sort of locking mechanism so I upgraded all four to grade 8 and added some lockwashers. I'm going to do the same for the bolts holding the seats because clearly nylock nuts (which those have) are not sufficient.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 07:02
|
|
|
Lock washers are basically useless. Get some Nordlocks or thread locking compound instead.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 11:42
|
|
|
Nord locks actually work. Was the only thing that stopped the CV bolts from backing out on my bus.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 16:44
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:Lock washers are basically useless. Get some Nordlocks or thread locking compound instead. That Loctite stick is the poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 19:16
|
|
|
wallaka posted:That Loctite stick is the poo poo.  I even have one of these.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 19:18
|
|
|
Metal Geir Skogul posted:Nord locks actually work. Was the only thing that stopped the CV bolts from backing out on my bus. I spec them to keep $150,000 camera bolts from backing out. They don't loosen.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 02:56
|
|
|
I also finally noticed that the 47-year-old rubber cab mounts are completely toasted. Honestly I'd never looked that closely at them but they are just gone. At least that should be a simple matter of supporting the cab, remove bolt, replace rubber, replace bolt.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 07:34
|
|
|
Or support cab, inject windo-weld, continue supporting cab for six hours while it cures.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 17:10
|
|
|
The mounts are (or, were) solid chunks of rubber already. Apparently I haven't looked all that closely at them in ages, but they're supposed to look like this (not my photo): There's probably a half-inch gap between the frame bracket and the lower rubber mount 
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 18:41
|
|
|
Ah, my bad. I thought it was more of the "enclosed bushing in a tube"-style.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2017 18:43
|
|
|
I keep getting a whiff of coolant smell in the WJ about half the time when I floor it, but it still passes a pressure test. I can't find any leaks underhood. I can't decide if it's either a tiny heater core leak or if my drat head gasket is blown. I suppose I can bypass the heater core and rule it out. Both of these jobs suck rear end but at least the heater core is cheap. If the heads come off this engine, they're getting rebuilt, it's getting a new timing set, and maaaaybe a new oil pump too, and then I'm at nearly $2k in parts and services.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2017 03:06
|
|
|
Though now that I think about it... If it was the heater core, it should smell windows up or down. I'm pretty sure this engine is getting head gaskets. Damnit.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2017 03:53
|
|
|
The coolant cap will vent air occasionally as the coolant expands, possibly more than it should, if old and worn.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2017 03:59
|
|
|
Radiator cap is recent-ish (the one that was on it when I bought it wasn't venting enough) and it's not puking anything liquid out of the overflow tank. Suppose it wouldn't hurt to throw a new one at it just in case.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2017 04:05
|
|
|
You didn't say you were adding coolant, so I assume it's not losing a noticeable amount either? I'd run one of those tests for combustion gases in the coolant, and let that be the decider, personally.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2017 12:46
|
|
|
Very small amounts of coolant, like half the overflow tank every month. I've got one of those block testers, I'll give it another go.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2017 14:46
|
|
|
No shortage of flex on the new lift:   Maybe a bit much, actually Going up the waterfall, no problems. Coming down the waterfall, the driver's side coil decided to vacate the Jeep. Thus, the hellaflush shot in the middle, and the spring chilling on the rock with a drink. Spring retainers are now next on The List.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2017 22:33
|
|
|
That had to make a fun noise. So uh, how'd you get the Jeep home?
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2017 23:45
|
|
|
It was a thump, followed by clang-clang-clang of the spring rolling down the rocks. My dashcam actually managed to capture the audio so I'll post that when I have time to process the video. Everyone pushing on the Jeep as it's coming down the hill was doing their part to keep the wheel from eating the bumper / fender liner too hard (and succeeded in doing so). Repair was remarkably easy, and I honestly ended up doing almost fuckall of the work. Someone had a high lift jack, we just had to get it up high enough to droop that side down and pop the spring back in.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2017 00:58
|
|
|
Limit straps?
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2017 03:34
|
|
|
DJ Commie posted:Limit straps? If I still pop them loose with spring retainers, then yes. Found this video that I had apparently never finished editing on Youtube. From earlier in the year, trying to climb a hill of cinders and not quite pulling it off. This is what made me get off of the mostly-worn Pathfinder S ATs. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5aMsrX-dDiA
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2017 07:19
|
|
|
Dashcam footage of the waterfall, 4:20  for spring clanging action.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouAQyVVA1ZA&t=260s
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2017 18:05
|
|
|
That's hilarious, I love the lady cracking up in the background when it happens.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2017 18:46
|
|
|
Your offroading WJ videos really light a fire under my butt to install a lift. My new job has a smashed overland WJ and I was given a green light to parts snatch. What brand of lift did you use again?
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2017 02:27
|
|
|
I went with the Jeepforum "Kolak lift". Here's what I've got on mine that is not stock or stock-replacement: OME HD springs - 2936 front, 2945 rear Bilstein 5100 shocks - 24-188197 front, 33-236957 rear JKS adjustable track bar for the WJ Moog SSD107 steering stabilizer JK Moab wheels and 1.5" spacers - without the spacers these tires rubbed on the upper spring mounts when flexing. Stock WJ wheels might not need them since I think they have a different backspace. LT245/70R17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W tires (31x10) Moderate trimming on the front bumper and fender liner to eliminate rubbing when reversing at full lock - still have the fog lights and windshield washer tank so it's nowhere near an extreme trim Kevin's Offroad rock sliders Kevin's Offroad transfer case skid As noted, this lift really needs spring retainers and/or limit straps if you disconnect the front swaybar. Stock upper and lower control arms and it still drives great on the street, honestly. I've got the IRO upper and lower retainers on order, and I'll measure out for either bump stop extensions or limit straps when I get those installed.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2017 02:46
|
|
|
Dashcam video of the full run: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zf5rra3icbo
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2017 17:27
|
|
|
Worked on the Jeep over the past couple weeks: New power steering pump (due to pulley failure), new pressure hose, new thermostat, new thermostat housing, and new heater core hoses. Lots of "remove X to access Y" thanks to modern cars. On the other end of the spectrum, where nearly everything you need is directly accessible - C10 cab mounts.  This is at rest. Note the gap between the lower mount and the frame. The rear mounts were both like this, the fronts still had some tension but not much. We're talking very nearly 48 year old rubber here, so nothing to be surprised at. Of course, here's where I get to be all smug as gently caress about this being an Arizona truck.  That's one of the rear bolts, came right out with my 3/8 Milwaukee M12 Fuel impact. Other rear was just as easy. These go threads-up into a captive nut welded into the back of the cab behind the gas tank, so I'm glad they both came out and went back in without a fuss. The fronts were only mildly trickier and definitely messier since the threads are exposed. The front mounts have bolts that drop in from the top of the cab floor, threads-down through the frame mount. Depending on whoever welded up the cab at the factory, these bolts were secured with either absolutely nothing, or a small spot weld, or a giant puddle weld. The latter is great if you don't want to put a wrench on the topside, but not so great if you want to replace the hardware. I ended up with spot welds, since that same 3/8 impact broke the welds almost immediately. Pulling the carpet back enough to access the head is easy, so that wasn't too big of a deal. Made it easy to replace those bolts too. Now, using the side trim as a reference, the back of my cab is no longer an inch lower than the bed!
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2017 23:31
|
|
|
Not gonna lie, kinda hate you. I've got new bolts in the parts-store baggies that look worse than that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2017 23:33
|
|
|
I went ahead and reused them anyway. The replacement bolts in the kit don't have the pointed nose and they have fewer threads.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2017 00:41
|
|
|
Finally got the bed of the truck (and the rest of the garage) cleaned out enough to run some errands with it today. I always forget just how much fun it is sticking it in L1 and doing a WOT pull. The noise that thing makes both on and off the throttle.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2017 06:03
|
|
|
Show us with a video?
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2017 06:45
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:Show us with a video?  
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2017 13:04
|
|
|
I haven't driven it since, its a pain to pull it out of the garage with some of the presents we're hiding from the kiddo in the garage. I have been fighting a stupid leak on the upper radiator hose on the Jeep. I've never had a hose be so consistently hard to seal. I've seen some people recommend permatex aviation form-a-gasket, and that seems like it might actually be working.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 06:51
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:I haven't driven it since, its a pain to pull it out of the garage with some of the presents we're hiding from the kiddo in the garage. Sometimes if you crank down the clamp to hard on an older hose is will cut a little. And it almost always does it on the side that is the hardest to see. And were you talking about doing the hose upgrade or did you? I'm almost positive your the one who told me the WK is a direct upgrade for the WJ
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 16:08
|
|
|
That was the heater hoses, no idea if a WK upper radiator hose fits too. Seems like most of the aftermarket upper hoses are slightly larger in diameter than the OE one. The hose in question is only about a month old.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 16:11
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:That was the heater hoses, no idea if a WK upper radiator hose fits too. Seems like most of the aftermarket upper hoses are slightly larger in diameter than the OE one. The hose in question is only about a month old. Ahh that's what it was. My memory is meh at best. Any chance of finding one at the junkyard for trying? Is an OE much more expensive then after market? Also sometimes a little black sealant might help. Its not a perfect method or what's recommended but I've seen it work .
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2017 17:14
|
|
|
So far it seems to be holding up with the non-hardening form-a-gasket thrown in there. Just ordered some 1 7/8" longtube headers for the C10.   Along with some fresh ACDelco gaskets for the flange, and some cheap boot covers for the plug wires just in case.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2017 19:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 19:07 |
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:So far it seems to be holding up with the non-hardening form-a-gasket thrown in there. gently caress yeah!  Are you just running the iron manifolds now? Edit: Holy gently caress, does that place seriously have swap headers for the Nova for $220?! 
Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Dec 27, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2017 20:34
|
|
