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Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

surf rock posted:

Not sure where to ask this, but I'm outfitting my guest room and need a bit of advice.

I just ordered this bedframe and I'm going to get this mattress to go along with it. Do I also need to get a foundation like this or is that redundant with the bed frame?

Every bed I've ever had has had a boxspring, but all of them had frames with three or four thick slats instead of a bunch of like this one, so I dunno if that makes a difference.

Thank you!

Box springs/foundations are not necessary with a foam mattress and a platform bed. You can get one if you think the mattress and bed will be too low. The foundation you linked would be for converting a standard (3-4 slat) bed into something that would properly support a foam mattress.

Tiny Timbs fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Dec 25, 2017

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Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


surf rock posted:

Not sure where to ask this, but I'm outfitting my guest room and need a bit of advice.

I just ordered this bedframe and I'm going to get this mattress to go along with it. Do I also need to get a foundation like this or is that redundant with the bed frame?

Every bed I've ever had has had a boxspring, but all of them had frames with three or four thick slats instead of a bunch of like this one, so I dunno if that makes a difference.

Thank you!

It's redundant. The mattress goes straight onto the slats of the bedframe you have there.

Blackchamber
Jan 25, 2005

surf rock posted:

Not sure where to ask this, but I'm outfitting my guest room and need a bit of advice.

I just ordered this bedframe and I'm going to get this mattress to go along with it. Do I also need to get a foundation like this or is that redundant with the bed frame?

Every bed I've ever had has had a boxspring, but all of them had frames with three or four thick slats instead of a bunch of like this one, so I dunno if that makes a difference.

Thank you!

I dont have that particular bedframe, but I have one from the same maker. And yeah redundant.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
What are my options for adding climate controlled storage space in a house? Our house is basically big enough for living space, but it's really lacking in good storage options. I mean, there's a ton of crawl space and attic space, but most of the stuff I want to store (clothes, books, etc.) wouldn't do so well without climate control.

The attic isn't big enough to "finish," and it only has a ladder for entry. As for the crawl space, the house is on a hill so while the shortest area is like 4', the tallest part is a good 8ft or so.

So my options are to create a room in the crawl space, or in the attic. I'm leaning towards boxing the attic in around the ladder. I feel like this would be easiest to do, and it would be easier to get to since the access is already inside.

Comedy option: cut a hole in the downstairs floor and build a root cellar in to the crawl space. Though that actually doesn't sound so bad now that I think of it...

As far as HVAC is concerned, would adding a 10'x10'x6' space really tax my existing system?

Or is this all a really terrible idea?

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost
If it's underground the temperature will be acceptable for storage of pretty much anything other than instruments even if it's totally cut off from home heat, which it won't be. Just get a good dehumidifier for the space.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


For retrieving items by yourself on a regular basis, the crawlspace with an external door would be easier. If you'll have someone around to pass items to, an attic would have less moisture issues. I don't think it would need temperature control, just assume that it would get hot in summer.

Magnus Praeda
Jul 18, 2003
The largess in the land.
If you go the attic route, make sure your ceiling joists are able to handle the load. In a lot of older homes, they're undersized for any significant load and you may need to sister additional joists alongside. Example: the ceiling joists in my house are only 2x6, so I'd need to sister in some 2x8s or 2x10s to make use of the attic for storing a heavy dead load like books. As it is, I think the load rating is only about 10lbs/sq. ft. for a dead load (give or take, I didn't bother looking up the actual load tables).

On the HVAC question, it's partly going to depend on your climate. Books or clothes aren't going to care much about temperature (hot or cold) but they will care a lot about humidity.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Magnus Praeda posted:

On the HVAC question, it's partly going to depend on your climate. Books or clothes aren't going to care much about temperature (hot or cold) but they will care a lot about humidity.

Unless it's Fahrenheit 451.

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost
Counterpoint:

Magnus Praeda
Jul 18, 2003
The largess in the land.

Jaded Burnout posted:

Unless it's Fahrenheit 451.

In that case, the Firemen will already be dealing with the book storage problem.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Poor moldy floor zombie :(

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
North Carolina... So moisture is definitely an issue.

Though the crawl space keeps a much more stable temperature than the attic, so maybe if we insulated well enough we could get away with just a dehumidifier.

The house was built in 1999. Is that any guarantee that the attic is safe, or is it still a case by case sort of thing?

I ask because ultimately, I feel like it would be easier to build an insulated space in the attic. There's already a level surface to build on and much less concern about moisture.

Ease of access isn't a huge concern...I'm still torn as to which would be easier. They both have their pros and cons.

Magnus Praeda
Jul 18, 2003
The largess in the land.

DaveSauce posted:

North Carolina... So moisture is definitely an issue.

Though the crawl space keeps a much more stable temperature than the attic, so maybe if we insulated well enough we could get away with just a dehumidifier.

The house was built in 1999. Is that any guarantee that the attic is safe, or is it still a case by case sort of thing?

I ask because ultimately, I feel like it would be easier to build an insulated space in the attic. There's already a level surface to build on and much less concern about moisture.

Ease of access isn't a huge concern...I'm still torn as to which would be easier. They both have their pros and cons.

Personally, I view crawl spaces as terrible storage options for anything moisture-sensitive. Aside from the constant temperature, they have no real upsides. They flood easily and even with a dehumidifier, they are susceptible to damp.

The easiest way to find out what size joists you have is to measure them since it sounds like they should be exposed from the top. It's likely that they're at least 2x8s or 2x10s but I don't know what code would have called for in 99 w/r/t ceiling joist sizing in an unfinished attic space and, anyway, the one hard and fast rule about houses is to never assume the builder or previous owner did things correctly.

I'd agree that the attic is probably easier to deal with and is unlikely to have any worse issues with humidity than the rest of your house. You might even be able to get away with just using a gable vent fan to make it somewhat bearable to be up there in summer and just let convection from the heated part of the house to keep it from freezing in winter.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Use the attic space, but install a series of Korben Dallas/5th element pull down weapon racks.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

cakesmith handyman posted:

Use the attic space, but install a series of Korben Dallas/5th element pull down weapon racks.

Do it

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Now I'm wondering about how to do so in my garage.

Subjunctive
Sep 12, 2006

✨sparkle and shine✨

Why do people have cold cellars? I have one, but I don’t really understand why I would want a place that isn’t humidity- or temperature- controlled, but is attached to my basement. It’s too narrow to insulate effectively, I think, but I also feel like I’m missing something.

Magnus Praeda
Jul 18, 2003
The largess in the land.

Subjunctive posted:

Why do people have cold cellars? I have one, but I don’t really understand why I would want a place that isn’t humidity- or temperature- controlled, but is attached to my basement. It’s too narrow to insulate effectively, I think, but I also feel like I’m missing something.

It's where you store your barrels of apples, potatoes, onions, etc. Also old-fashioned canned food (like in glass jars), wine, and beer.

Or do what my in-laws do and just use it for Christmas decorations and winter sports gear.

The cold/root cellar under my house ended up being where they put the furnace and water heater (presumably some time in the 40s or 50s) but there's still shelves perfectly sized for pint ball jars lining the walls and even a couple empty jars down there.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Subjunctive posted:

Why do people have cold cellars? I have one, but I don’t really understand why I would want a place that isn’t humidity- or temperature- controlled, but is attached to my basement. It’s too narrow to insulate effectively, I think, but I also feel like I’m missing something.

How do you feel about brewing, or potatoes, or brewing with potatoes.

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



Subjunctive posted:

Why do people have cold cellars? I have one, but I don’t really understand why I would want a place that isn’t humidity- or temperature- controlled, but is attached to my basement. It’s too narrow to insulate effectively, I think, but I also feel like I’m missing something.

I thought a cold cellar was temperature and humidity controlled by design?

My house has a pantry with a cold slab and it is awesome for storing beer at the perfect temperature.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


It's time to rearrange this kitchen rack to welcome the deep fryer (pop-up toaster size) that Santa brought. The fryer will be used on the IH stovetop with the fan on high, but needs a cozy spot somewhere under the microwave.

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peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Sorry I wrote in pencil. The top shelf is height matched with the cabinet next to it, but I want to adjust the shelves to an ideal height for everything. Maybe reduce the chaos on the top shelf.
The only thing that can really be reduced/removed is the paper bag zone.

microwave & oven - junk food

towels - more towels - root veggies

paper bags - paper recycling

boxes - bundle - bundle

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peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Here's another mediocre photo. I rotated the baskets to open some space in the very back, and lowered the cloth curtain thingy. My real dream is to have less crap stacked on and around the microwave. How to keep it up and away from the girls but still easily accessed by my husband...???

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Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


peanut posted:

Here's another mediocre photo. I rotated the baskets to open some space in the very back, and lowered the cloth curtain thingy. My real dream is to have less crap stacked on and around the microwave. How to keep it up and away from the girls but still easily accessed by my husband...???

Is it something you could put in another child-locked cupboard? Or does that breach "easily accessed"?

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Giant manbaby has trouble finding his snacky cakes if they're not immediately visible. I think moving the lowest shelf to above the microwave will improve breakfast and snack capacity. Next, the whole upper cabinet above the toaster oven is inefficiently used right now. It's extra stuff like paper plates and aluminum foil.

We spent the weekend in a skinny three-story house in Tokyo so my kitchen-living-dining space feels huge ^____^

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


peanut posted:

Next, the whole upper cabinet above the toaster oven is inefficiently used right now. It's extra stuff like paper plates and aluminum foil.

Is the toaster oven the thing on the left? (we don't have them in the UK so I'm not sure what they look like). If so it looks like the space it's in is twice the height it needs to be; you could split it with a shelf, move it up, and have more room below for snacks an ting.

Magnus Praeda
Jul 18, 2003
The largess in the land.

peanut posted:

Giant manbaby has trouble finding his snacky cakes if they're not immediately visible. I think moving the lowest shelf to above the microwave will improve breakfast and snack capacity.

My wife calls this "man-blindness." She can successfully hide things from me by putting them behind other things on the shelf. Somehow, even if I do move the other things, the original thing I was looking for just doesn't quite register to my brain as "hey, fuckstick, it's right there." We have a specific cupboard dedicated to snacks for exactly this reason.

I make up for my apparent mental deficiencies by being able to fetch things from tall shelves without resorting to a stepladder.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Magnus Praeda posted:

My wife calls this "man-blindness." She can successfully hide things from me by putting them behind other things on the shelf. Somehow, even if I do move the other things, the original thing I was looking for just doesn't quite register to my brain as "hey, fuckstick, it's right there." We have a specific cupboard dedicated to snacks for exactly this reason.

I make up for my apparent mental deficiencies by being able to fetch things from tall shelves without resorting to a stepladder.

How is your jar game?

My wife isn't quite that blind, but I can certainly do things right under her nose and have her not notice. This includes buying presents for her while she is out with me. It's fun how oblivious she can be to me doing things with her.

Magnus Praeda
Jul 18, 2003
The largess in the land.

H110Hawk posted:

How is your jar game?

My wife isn't quite that blind, but I can certainly do things right under her nose and have her not notice. This includes buying presents for her while she is out with me. It's fun how oblivious she can be to me doing things with her.

Identifying jar contents? My wife's also into home canning. A jar of cranberry chutney looks remarkably similar to cherry pie filling but is very much not usable for the same purposes.

If I buy her a gift and want it to remain a surprise, I just put it on top of the bookshelf in my office.

Snow Cone Capone
Jul 31, 2003


Hi, I hope this the right thread to ask this:

I live in NJ, where it's been 10-20 degrees for a few days and will be for at least a few more. Last night the heat died in my apartment (I live on the 2nd floor of a 2-family home). Long story short, something is hosed with the boiler (we have steam radiators), it's a half-day job and won't be able to be done til Tuesday. Something flooded or something? I have no clue. My landlord has provided a few solid space heaters, so the place is warm, and from past experience I know I can count on him to compensate me for the increased electricity bill from running them.

I'm kind of annoyed but it could be worse, so whatever. My main question is this: we're going away on Sunday night until Monday afternoon. My landlord told me to run 2 space heaters on low, 1 in the kitchen and 1 in the bathroom, along with letting the faucets trickle, so the pipes don't freeze. I am pretty sure that leaving unattended space heaters overnight, even on low, is a loving terrible idea. Will I be OK just letting the faucets trickle for the night?

The first night before he brought over the heaters, the temperature up here didn't drop below 51. The people downstairs have separate utilities (I think they have baseboard heat) so they still have heat. We also still have hot water up here (I always assumed since we have steam heat that our heat and hot water used the same boiler or whatever, I really don't know much about that sort of thing).

I don't want the pipes to freeze and gently caress a million things up, but I'm really, really wary of leaving the heaters on, especially since we have a cat who's curious enough that I'd be worried about him burning himself or something.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Hot drat your description of man-blindness was perfect.

If it's not actually icey outside, just letting the faucets drip should be enough for an upstairs apartment. I think.

Snow Cone Capone
Jul 31, 2003


When you say icey do you mean like actual ice on the outside of the house? It's pretty clear here but it is 14 degrees out.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Magnus Praeda posted:

Identifying jar contents? My wife's also into home canning. A jar of cranberry chutney looks remarkably similar to cherry pie filling but is very much not usable for the same purposes.

If I buy her a gift and want it to remain a surprise, I just put it on top of the bookshelf in my office.

Either :thejoke: or whoosh. How good are you at opening jars to complement your reaching high shelves skill.

Magnus Praeda
Jul 18, 2003
The largess in the land.

H110Hawk posted:

Either :thejoke: or whoosh. How good are you at opening jars to complement your reaching high shelves skill.

:downs: Whoosh, apparently.
I can open drat near any jar presented to me and for those that do not immediately bend to my will, I have a strap wrench. :black101:

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Mein Kampf Enthusiast posted:

Hi, I hope this the right thread to ask this:

I live in NJ, where it's been 10-20 degrees for a few days and will be for at least a few more. Last night the heat died in my apartment (I live on the 2nd floor of a 2-family home). Long story short, something is hosed with the boiler (we have steam radiators), it's a half-day job and won't be able to be done til Tuesday. Something flooded or something? I have no clue. My landlord has provided a few solid space heaters, so the place is warm, and from past experience I know I can count on him to compensate me for the increased electricity bill from running them.

I'm kind of annoyed but it could be worse, so whatever. My main question is this: we're going away on Sunday night until Monday afternoon. My landlord told me to run 2 space heaters on low, 1 in the kitchen and 1 in the bathroom, along with letting the faucets trickle, so the pipes don't freeze. I am pretty sure that leaving unattended space heaters overnight, even on low, is a loving terrible idea. Will I be OK just letting the faucets trickle for the night?

The first night before he brought over the heaters, the temperature up here didn't drop below 51. The people downstairs have separate utilities (I think they have baseboard heat) so they still have heat. We also still have hot water up here (I always assumed since we have steam heat that our heat and hot water used the same boiler or whatever, I really don't know much about that sort of thing).

I don't want the pipes to freeze and gently caress a million things up, but I'm really, really wary of leaving the heaters on, especially since we have a cat who's curious enough that I'd be worried about him burning himself or something.

Can the landlord check in on them, or perhaps someone else? Heaters are often left unattended at night during the dry-out phase of a construction project, so it is not necessarily unheard of. Since the landlord has provided you with the direction and means to prevent the pipes from freezing and then bursting and flooding, you would be the potential liable party if they do burst.

Do you have a smart home and thermostat?

You could plug in the heaters to a wifi/remote enabled outlet, and then whenever the temperature falls below the desired setpoint you could remotely activate the switch.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


You could also ask for some oil-based radiators since I assume you're talking about an incandescent type at the moment? One with a fan?

Oil radiators are (IMO) safer since they're convection-only and also usually have a thermostat built in that you could set low.

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



Mein Kampf Enthusiast posted:

Hi, I hope this the right thread to ask this:

I live in NJ, where it's been 10-20 degrees for a few days and will be for at least a few more. Last night the heat died in my apartment (I live on the 2nd floor of a 2-family home). Long story short, something is hosed with the boiler (we have steam radiators), it's a half-day job and won't be able to be done til Tuesday. Something flooded or something? I have no clue. My landlord has provided a few solid space heaters, so the place is warm, and from past experience I know I can count on him to compensate me for the increased electricity bill from running them.

I'm kind of annoyed but it could be worse, so whatever. My main question is this: we're going away on Sunday night until Monday afternoon. My landlord told me to run 2 space heaters on low, 1 in the kitchen and 1 in the bathroom, along with letting the faucets trickle, so the pipes don't freeze. I am pretty sure that leaving unattended space heaters overnight, even on low, is a loving terrible idea. Will I be OK just letting the faucets trickle for the night?

I don't think that your apartment will freeze in one night away without any heating - especially if you have downstairs neighbours with their heat on. You could leave the heaters on full before you leave on Sunday and get it nice and warm first.

It doesn't stay that cold for long here, but I've frequently been away from my house at work for a week (leaving my central heating off) and come back on friday night with it at between -4C (25F) and 0C outside and have never seen it below +10C inside the house.

I would echo getting an oil filled electric radiator if you do want to leave something running unattended. They will quite happily sit with the thermostat on low.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
An incandescent lamp under your sink is enough to keep your pipes from freezing and way less of a safety hazard.

Snow Cone Capone
Jul 31, 2003


Thanks for the advice, guys.

He gave me 3 functional heaters - one brand-new oil-filled radiator, and 2 baseboard-style heaters. I don't trust the baseboard heaters to run unattended, but the oil one does have a lo/med/hi knob, so maybe it'll be ok to leave it on low. I might ask him to bring over another oil-filled one, the bathroom and kitchen are far enough from each other that heat wouldn't travel between them that well.

Honestly I don't give a poo poo if this place burns down, I'm really just worried about the cat :(

Regardless of if I end up using the heaters or not, do I leave the cold or hot tap open? Just enough for a steady stream, or even a drip is enough? Also, should I do the shower too or just the sinks?

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IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Mein Kampf Enthusiast posted:

Thanks for the advice, guys.

He gave me 3 functional heaters - one brand-new oil-filled radiator, and 2 baseboard-style heaters. I don't trust the baseboard heaters to run unattended, but the oil one does have a lo/med/hi knob, so maybe it'll be ok to leave it on low. I might ask him to bring over another oil-filled one, the bathroom and kitchen are far enough from each other that heat wouldn't travel between them that well.

Honestly I don't give a poo poo if this place burns down, I'm really just worried about the cat :(

Regardless of if I end up using the heaters or not, do I leave the cold or hot tap open? Just enough for a steady stream, or even a drip is enough? Also, should I do the shower too or just the sinks?

The idea behind leaving the taps cracked is to prevent a leg of stagnant water being exposed to the cold. Running water will require sub freezing temperatures to freeze. So, anywhere there could be a dead leg a tap should be opened. Both taps should be open; even though the hot water is heated, the dead leg will slowly approach ambient temperature and would eventually (possibly) freeze. Theoretically you need enough flow to keep the water moving, the amount of flow needed depends how far away from freezing you get.

In the past I had the opportunity to freeze pipes in nuclear power plants to facilitate repairs to downstream valves that could not be safely worked on. It was quite interesting! We didn't crack them though. In fact, it was quite important not to.

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