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FogHelmut posted:Yes Looks kinda like my Clopay. Although my factory finish is hanging in there. That crappy coat is likely due to lovely surface prep. You can strip it with chemical /aircraft stripper, or you can gently wire wheel it down to bare. I prefer the latter, wearing a face shield and old, loose clothing to catch the stray ballistic wires. It goes fast with an angle grinder to drive it. You’ll need several cup-shaped wheels. Just don’t lean in hard or you’ll score the surface. Either way, wash it down afterwards with soap & water followed by an alcohol wipe-down, then you can rattle-can it with self-etching primer followed by the topcoats of your choice. You can go full anal by removing the panels first.
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Jan 4, 2018 05:15
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Looking to add "shop lights" to my garage before I paint the whole thing. What would the best/easiest way to conceal the wires? I am guess I will connect the shop lights to an outlet in the center of the room where the garage door opener is connected. Alternatively does something like this exist: Plug into a outlet and the other end is a light bulb socket (something like 4 light bulbs) lol internet. fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Jan 4, 2018 |
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Jan 4, 2018 05:22
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lol internet. posted:Looking to add "shop lights" to my garage before I paint the whole thing. What would the best/easiest way to conceal the wires? I am guess I will connect the shop lights to an outlet in the center of the room where the garage door opener is connected. How big is your garage? 4 light bulbs sounds like a terrible setup. You should check out the garage thread. Costco sells shop lights that are plugin lights (4ft led tube lights) but I would recommend looking into wiring in led fixtures and putting them on a separate breaker from your plugs. I can provide links to what I ended up ordering and having put into my garage that I just had built if you're up for more than plugging in a few lights.
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Jan 4, 2018 06:17
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tangy yet delightful posted:How big is your garage? 4 light bulbs sounds like a terrible setup. You should check out the garage thread. Costco sells shop lights that are plugin lights (4ft led tube lights) but I would recommend looking into wiring in led fixtures and putting them on a separate breaker from your plugs. I can provide links to what I ended up ordering and having put into my garage that I just had built if you're up for more than plugging in a few lights. Not sure the exact size but it fits 2 cars with no storage. There are two regular light fixtures already installed towards the back end, but then there's a support beam which sort of blocks out the front half the garage and the front half doesn't get too good of a lighting. Wouldn't mind seeing what you did with you, I don't mind doing some work but I don't want to do some crazy amount of work.
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Jan 4, 2018 06:37
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I have a 110 in-wall heater that stopped working. Raywall. Probably original to the house built in the 90s. It’s 1500w, 110. I don’t know if it has its own circuit, but my wife can run the hair dryer while it’s on. All my breakers are 20 amp. It was working fine, then I flipped breakers trying to find the bathroom closet light breaker so I could later change the fixture. Is it possible me toggling the breaker quickly could’ve fried the element? It’s a weird size, 11x20, or I’d just replace it with the $80 one with a fan on amazon. What’s my best course of action here? Think I’ll be able to disassemble far enough to get a multimeter on the wire nuts to see if the circuit is live before I zap myself?
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Jan 4, 2018 18:08
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PuTTY riot posted:I have a 110 in-wall heater that stopped working. Raywall. Probably original to the house built in the 90s. It’s 1500w, 110. I don’t know if it has its own circuit, but my wife can run the hair dryer while it’s on. All my breakers are 20 amp. It was working fine, then I flipped breakers trying to find the bathroom closet light breaker so I could later change the fixture. Is it possible me toggling the breaker quickly could’ve fried the element? It’s a weird size, 11x20, or I’d just replace it with the $80 one with a fan on amazon. What’s my best course of action here? Think I’ll be able to disassemble far enough to get a multimeter on the wire nuts to see if the circuit is live before I zap myself? The only way flipping the breaker could have fried your heater is if it somehow got a short inside during the brief time the breaker was flipped off. Even then, it would have been waiting to fry whenever the power came back on. My guess would be that its thermostat died, but the heating element is easy enough to check too. First, turn off the power then verify it with your multimeter at the thermostat. Next, just try shaking the heating coil near the end. When they go bad, the wire breaks. If one end shakes and the other end doesn't, then the coil is most likely broken. As for the thermostat, is it mechanical? If so, crank up its temp high enough for it to want to switch on, then test for continuity across it.
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Jan 4, 2018 21:34
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This is how the water heater in my apartment is wired. I'm no electrician, but I was under the impression that just pulling Romex out of the wall like that is a problem. Just how bad is it? Most of what I've found so far focuses on the junction box on the heater, but what should the wiring look like at the wall?
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Jan 5, 2018 06:23
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I wonder where that relief valve goes
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Jan 5, 2018 08:27
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shovelbum posted:I wonder where that relief valve goes It takes a right behind that drywall and extends through the exterior wall.
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Jan 5, 2018 17:05
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Toast Museum posted:This is how the water heater in my apartment is wired. I'm no electrician, but I was under the impression that just pulling Romex out of the wall like that is a problem. Just how bad is it? Most of what I've found so far focuses on the junction box on the heater, but what should the wiring look like at the wall? There should be a box mounted to a stud in the wall, and most likely you should have MC between the box and heater (not all codes will require this). The pressure relief valve drain is 100% wrong and probably dangerous.
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Jan 5, 2018 17:39
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Toast Museum posted:This is how the water heater in my apartment is wired. I'm no electrician, but I was under the impression that just pulling Romex out of the wall like that is a problem. Just how bad is it? Most of what I've found so far focuses on the junction box on the heater, but what should the wiring look like at the wall? Exposed Romex is only allowed in unfinished basements or attics, and even then when attached to the joists or studs. It's a protection thing. Still, nobody goes around swinging big metal things around a water heater. That would be easy to bring to code for ~$15-20. Your real problem is what Motronic said, the pipe for the PRV. PRVs basically prevent your water heater from becoming a bomb (there's lots of fun YouTube videos about this). Their pipes are supposed to be exposed so that you can notice it leaking water into the floor. When they leak water, it either means that your heater element has failed and is making the water too hot way past its highest setting, or that the PRV is getting old and needs to be replaced. Where's the other end of that pipe?
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Jan 5, 2018 19:59
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kid sinister posted:Your real problem is what Motronic said, the pipe for the PRV. PRVs basically prevent your water heater from becoming a bomb (there's lots of fun YouTube videos about this). Their pipes are supposed to be exposed so that you can notice it leaking water into the floor. When they leak water, it either means that your heater element has failed and is making the water too hot way past its highest setting, or that the PRV is getting old and needs to be replaced. Where's the other end of that pipe? The T&P is also supposed to be in the top 6" of water. With the rest of that install it wouldn't surprise me either way if that was an appropriate valve for top orientation. Air gap to a drain is code in a lot of places but not all (to my surprise). Where I'm at it's also supposed to be black iron or copper, definitely not plastic, have no more than 4 elbows, no downsizing along the run and no more than 30" long. kid sinister posted:Still, nobody goes around swinging big metal things around a water heater. 
Motronic fucked around with this message at 20:32 on Jan 5, 2018 |
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Jan 5, 2018 20:30
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I stand corrected. Ouch.
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Jan 5, 2018 22:39
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Re: my potential time bomb of a water heater, I looked up what I think is the relevant plumbing code, and I could use some clarification.2015 South Carolina Plumbing Code posted:504.6 Requirements for discharge piping. Items 2 and 5 sound possibly contradictory to me on discharging outside. Does that just mean that, rather than discharging into a pan, it could discharge through an in-room air gap to drainage that leads outside, or does it mean something else? I want to make sure I understand the situation as clearly as possible before I go off and demand that management make changes. In the seemingly unlikely case that their setup is somehow allowed, it still seems really unwise. As someone with zero plumbing experience, how difficult would it be for me to refit this setup to something that might actually warn me of danger?
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Jan 6, 2018 15:56
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Air gap must be indoors, but can be diverted elsewhere, it seems to make sense.
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Jan 6, 2018 16:30
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cakesmith handyman posted:Air gap must be indoors, but can be diverted elsewhere, it seems to make sense. That's what it sounds like to me, but like I said, I want to be as sure of everything as I reasonably can be before making a stink about it.
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Jan 6, 2018 16:33
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Are there any nice looking tub surround kits that look like tile/stone that aren't over $1000? The Utile by Maxx looks nice but just the back wall piece is over $700cdn  I have so many house projects on the go I'm not sure if I have the time to learn to tile on my tub walls and do it right the first time.
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Jan 6, 2018 17:39
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Someone sent me a case of Omaha Steaks for Christmas, and they're shipped in this pretty heavy styrofoam cooler. I was thinking of turning this cooler into something more durable for repeated use. Is there anything I can coat this with that would be a harder surface that won't melt the styrofoam?
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Jan 6, 2018 19:46
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Spagghentleman posted:Are there any nice looking tub surround kits that look like tile/stone that aren't over $1000? The Utile by Maxx looks nice but just the back wall piece is over $700cdn It's actually very easy, OP. Get a scratcher, a nipper, a 1/4" trowel, buy about 150 worth of materials, and go to town. Check the tub for level, go a wall at a time. Oh, and some sponges, 3 gal buckets....float for your grout. That's really about it.
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Jan 6, 2018 20:10
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My daughter kicked something under the oven and when I popped off the access plate I noticed that the vent ducting had become disconnected. See photo below.  Obviously the previous failed "connection" was made by duct tape. I can try to redo it with a slightly better duct tape installation, but I'm assuming there's got to be a better way?
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Jan 7, 2018 04:28
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I tacked in a heavy exterior door between my basement and garage in an open 2x4 stud wall. The whole wall kind of shakes when I slam the door, to the point that I’m worried it’ll crack drywall later on. Am I bad at framing and need to reinforce that, or can I assume a couple hundred pounds of drywall will dampen it?
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Jan 7, 2018 04:38
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eddiewalker posted:I tacked in a heavy exterior door between my basement and garage in an open 2x4 stud wall. If it's an unloaded (curtain, not load-bearing) wall that is somewhat normal. Drywall will stiffen it somewhat, yes.
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Jan 7, 2018 05:38
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Can I ask a heating question here? We’re in the middle of a cold snap here in NJ and chances of getting a service guy today out are low and expensive. Hoping it might be something straight forward. I have a Weil-McClain Gold Oil furnace, converted to gas, hot water radiator / baseboard heat. Recently the heat would not kick on with the thermostats even if I crank it up. Though it might be the thermostat but it started happening in more than one zone. Thermostat shows it should be firing, the furnace is not kicking in and circulating the water. The outlet pipe to each zone is hot to the touch but the return is cold. (Varies depending on which zone how cold). When I first noticed this I thought it might be an air pocket. So for the basement zone I opened the valve to drain out some of the water. Figured the system would refill that zone and clear the air (again, my assumption) what it did do though was (I think) force circulate the warm water all the way through the system. It seems only by doing that draining does the circulator pump kick in to move the hot water through. The return pipe then feels warm/hot. Last night when we got to single digits another zone had the same issue and I just used the same method to get the heat to circulate to that floor. Any advice is appreciated, I’ll post pics if needed, just can’t seem to post from the SA app at the moment.
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Jan 7, 2018 13:09
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BeastOfExmoor posted:My daughter kicked something under the oven and when I popped off the access plate I noticed that the vent ducting had become disconnected. See photo below. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hydro-Crunch-12-in-Adjustable-Metal-Worm-Duct-Clamps-2-Pack-D940005200/303062193
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Jan 7, 2018 16:48
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FogHelmut posted:Someone sent me a case of Omaha Steaks for Christmas, and they're shipped in this pretty heavy styrofoam cooler. I was thinking of turning this cooler into something more durable for repeated use. Is there anything I can coat this with that would be a harder surface that won't melt the styrofoam? It's quite a project, but you could use it as the core for a West System icebox. http://epoxyworks.com/index.php/building-an-efficient-icebox/ Or you could do fiberglass and epoxy resin. Not polyester resin though, that'll melt the Styrofoam.
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Jan 7, 2018 21:20
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I wanna build something like this: I’m not familiar with how beefy Omaha steaks coolers are. I thought they shipped in styrofoam?
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Jan 7, 2018 23:16
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MrYenko posted:I wanna build something like this: Yeah, it's styrofoam. About the same quality you'd get out of a gas station styrofoam cooler. Just thicker. And they cover it in thick shrinkwrap to help it survive the UPS trip to your house.
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Jan 8, 2018 15:15
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FogHelmut posted:Someone sent me a case of Omaha Steaks for Christmas, and they're shipped in this pretty heavy styrofoam cooler. I was thinking of turning this cooler into something more durable for repeated use. Is there anything I can coat this with that would be a harder surface that won't melt the styrofoam? Apparently the trick is to spray light coats from the appropriate distance, basically using as directed. https://youtu.be/eBABqYL8GLg
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Jan 8, 2018 15:27
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Plastidip is heavy in solvents. I know it can soften paint underneath what you coat it on, and I wouldn’t be surprised if it melts styrofoam.
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Jan 8, 2018 15:35
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It's really one of those things that with the amount of money you'd spend making it a worthwhile cooler, you'd be better off just buying a cooler. It'll be cheaper, better built, and likely last longer.
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Jan 8, 2018 16:37
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The stairs leading to the attic have a ton of insulation just hanging out on the right side, and I'm wondering if it's a good opportunity to practice putting up drywall or if there could be any reason the previous owners didn't cover it. The other side of it is unusable as storage space but generally speaking the owners were pretty good about not leaving things sloppy. Just wondering if there's some commonsense reason why they wouldn't put up a permanent barrier there. 
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Jan 8, 2018 16:46
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jackpot posted:The stairs leading to the attic have a ton of insulation just hanging out on the right side, and I'm wondering if it's a good opportunity to practice putting up drywall or if there could be any reason the previous owners didn't cover it. The other side of it is unusable as storage space but generally speaking the owners were pretty good about not leaving things sloppy. Just wondering if there's some commonsense reason why they wouldn't put up a permanent barrier there. I don't understand the purpose of that insulation. Is there an interior wall behind it? If so, you could look at foam board over it to get a bit more R value, probably would air seal it better too.
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Jan 8, 2018 17:40
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Gounads posted:I don't understand the purpose of that insulation. Is there an interior wall behind it? If so, you could look at foam board over it to get a bit more R value, probably would air seal it better too.
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Jan 8, 2018 18:21
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I'm replacing my over the range Panasonic microwave. Is it safe to re-use existing mounting brackets? The new one (bottom) looks just like the old one so I don't think fit will be an issue. The new model (NN-SD2915) is just a newer variant of the old model that we're replacing (NN-SD277SR). I'm just wondering if there might be any structural integrity concerns with re-using an old mounting plate. EDIT:  thanks! \/
melon cat fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Jan 8, 2018 |
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Jan 8, 2018 19:36
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melon cat posted:I'm replacing my over the range Panasonic microwave. Is it safe to re-use existing mounting brackets? The new one (bottom) looks just like the old one so I don't think fit will be an issue. The new model (NN-SD2915) is just a newer variant of the old model that we're replacing (NN-SD277SR). I'm just wondering if there might be any structural integrity concerns with re-using an old mounting plate. You're fine reusing the old one.
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Jan 8, 2018 19:38
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Anyone have any tip on what to do here? This is a right above an area where the ceiling and wall meet. When I bought this house I used drywall tape and mud and sanded it down and here it is cracking again. 
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Jan 8, 2018 20:27
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Yeah get your foundation fixed.
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Jan 8, 2018 20:51
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Kanish posted:Anyone have any tip on what to do here? This is a right above an area where the ceiling and wall meet. When I bought this house I used drywall tape and mud and sanded it down and here it is cracking again. Is that drywall or plaster that's been painted 50 zillion times?
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Jan 8, 2018 21:11
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Kanish posted:Anyone have any tip on what to do here? This is a right above an area where the ceiling and wall meet. When I bought this house I used drywall tape and mud and sanded it down and here it is cracking again. If it's drywall, get some drywall screws with bigass washers and gently secure it to wherever your joists run. Assuming they run crosswise that crack. Then mud and tape it again.
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Jan 8, 2018 22:26
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Mr. Mambold posted:If it's drywall, get some drywall screws with bigass washers and gently secure it to wherever your joists run. Assuming they run crosswise that crack. Then mud and tape it again. Yeah it is drywall, I may give this a shot. I may try to use paintable caulk here instead of mud though. peepsalot posted:Yeah get your foundation fixed. Google and talking to some people suggests this may be truss uplift. We had no problems through our mild fall and the crack just formed pretty quick as soon as it was regularly into 20 degrees and below.
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Jan 8, 2018 22:43
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