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I forgot something in my previous post, the start of my new interior!  They're actually the Fairlane style of door trims, so they're supposed to have wood grain inside the chrome box. Turned out the Fairlane cards had a metal bracket behind them to support it which I don't have so the place that made them didn't do it. I'm happy with them but I wish I had known before they made them so I could have just said do the standard Fairmont style. I wanted that drat wood grain They'll look good when I get the arm rests and everything on there.
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Dec 28, 2017 18:08
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Imperador do Brasil posted:The cruise control light flashes constantly on Subarus when the CEL is on. Ah, I see. The check engine light in my Crown Vic is on, for p0402, excessive EGR flow, which most likely means that the EGR flow (DPFE) sensor has poo poo the bed again. It's part of the $300 EGR module on my year, though, so it'll wait until the inspection is due in March to get fixed. I replaced the EGR assembly when I bought the car to fix a P0401 code it came with, "insufficient EGR flow", which was also the sensor, rather than the actual EGR valve. I'll test first, of course. edit: oh, hey, the Motorcraft EGR valve is only $155 on Rock Auto. Thought it was more when I bought it 2+ years ago. Airtex/Wells and Standard are only ~$130. Still need to do my timing chain tensioners, too. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Dec 28, 2017 |
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Dec 28, 2017 18:18
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Ansith posted:I forgot something in my previous post, the start of my new interior! Hells yeah new door panels!   I really like the carpet on the bottom.
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Dec 28, 2017 20:12
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Larrymer posted:Today, I showed a coyote who is boss. I miss when cars were made of real things like metal. I hit a deer at 80mph in my Ranger, knocked her across the median onto the opposite shoulder of the highway, and the only damage was a broken plastic clip for holding the headlight in and my bumper was bent. I think I waited 6 months to deal with the bumper and never touched the headlight.
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Dec 29, 2017 05:20
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I miss when cars were made of real things like metal. In that case you barely grazed a deer. A deer strike at 80mph will gently caress up almost anything. Hitting a 100lb sack of meat is a serious impact that a stamped steel bumper doesn't just shrug off.
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Dec 29, 2017 05:29
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Ansith posted:This one is a few weeks old now but worth sharing. I rid myself of the lovely EF Falcon alloys and threw on the factory XC GXL alloys I got a while back, had to go for some really poo poo tyres on them, gently caress 14x6 wheels. That said I had a friend whose parents had a XC GXL 2 door with XE/XF Fairmont Ghia snowflake alloys on it, and it looked good.
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Dec 29, 2017 11:04
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Darchangel posted:Ah, I see. Doesn't clogged TB passages cause that too? I had to clean mine (they were coked up full) on my 5.4 and it solved the CEL (which I can't remember).
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Dec 29, 2017 14:25
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C-Bangin' it 
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I miss when cars were made of real things like metal. Really it's just a bumper and some undertray/wheel liner panels (I hope, estimate happening today). I'm just glad it wasn't a bigger animal and the airbags didn't deploy/family get hurt/etc. Would have been nice to deal with less but this is what insurance is for I guess. First claim ever. 
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Dec 29, 2017 14:30
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Colostomy Bag posted:Doesn't clogged TB passages cause that too? I had to clean mine (they were coked up full) on my 5.4 and it solved the CEL (which I can't remember). Probably not for excessive flow, but I plan to run through the factory service manual test procedure to find out for sure.
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Dec 29, 2017 18:12
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Darchangel posted:Probably not for excessive flow, but I plan to run through the factory service manual test procedure to find out for sure. ha, yeah you're probably right I just flew past the "excessive" part. The p0401 is for passage cleaning (the opposite...insufficient).Is you dpfe metal or plastic? Metal ones were the old style. I swear I've replaced the EGR but I'll be damned thinking it was that much. Does it include the entire tube to header assembly as well?
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Dec 29, 2017 19:23
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Clogged passages couldn't cause excessive flow, but the same poo poo can gunk up the valve itself and prevent it from closing.
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Dec 29, 2017 19:25
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Colostomy Bag posted:ha, yeah you're probably right I just flew past the "excessive" part. The dpfe is a plastic bit actually attached to the egr valve on the 2005+. Includes the solenoid as well. It’s technically removable, but no one makes just the dpfe.
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Dec 29, 2017 19:53
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Darchangel posted:The dpfe is a plastic bit actually attached to the egr valve on the 2005+. Includes the solenoid as well. It’s technically removable, but no one makes just the dpfe. Ah, gotcha, yeah, my dealings are with a 98. Good luck.
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Dec 29, 2017 19:59
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Colostomy Bag posted:Ah, gotcha, yeah, my dealings are with a 98. Good luck. Yeah. It eliminates the silicone hoses running all over the top of the engine (often replaced with low-temp vacuum hose because previous owners), but also eliminates replacing just the broken part.   The little box where the electrical plugs in and the hose going to it is the DPFE. And, as you can see, the passages are really short. Exhaust comes in at the tubing fitting, and goes right into the intake between the two bolts sticking out.
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Dec 29, 2017 20:24
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As mentioned in the chat thread, the weather killed the battery in the RX-8 and froze the parking brake cable in my F-150. Last night I pulled the battery out of the 8, brought it inside and hooked it up to my 6A LiPo "intelligent" charger. Charger claimed the battery was fully charged this afternoon, so back in the car it went. Just took it for a spin logging battery voltage. Stopped into two parking lots and shut it off and restarted it. So far no issue. Let's see what a night in a -5C garage will do. As for the truck, Ford in their infinite wisdom decided to expose the braided metal parking brake cable underneath the cab along the frame rail for close to a metre. Thus creating two spots where it can freeze to the shielding. It froze at both ends... Doused it in methanol to melt all the ice, actuated the cable a dozen times to free it and then coated both ends in graphite lube (it's all I have at the moment). Here's hoping this will be the last of the weather related issues.
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Jan 2, 2018 04:40
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 Not bad, little Saturd, not bad. Need to figure out why the timing chain is rattling on every startup now; fingers crossed it's just the tensioner (which screws into the block, doesn't require removing the timing cover). Original clutch, engine has yet to be touched for anything more than thermostats and spark plugs. Managed to leave my headlights on for a good 20 minutes at a friend's house moments before this was taken. Original plan was for me to pull into her driveway, open garage (hence headlights on), remove stuff I had left there (last time I was there, I took her and her kids on a small trip, and had to remove a lot of stuff from my car to fit everyone in). Instead I spaced and walked inside, bullshitted, had a beer, played with her dog, her dog broke out the red rocket (what the gently caress is it with me, neutered pit bulls, and red rockets?!), bullshit some more, then "wait... why is your kitchen window brigOH GODDAMNIT" followed by "HEY DOG LET GO OF MY LEG"  18F outside, headlights on 20+ minutes, and it gave zero fucks. Guess that battery is in much better shape than I thought.
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Jan 2, 2018 11:49
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Replaced aux battery in the Benz. Took some pics. Yeah woop-de-doo, replace a battery...might be interesting or maybe not. This is on a W221. Finally bit the dust in -8F temps. Anyways here are some pics and some background. Car has two batteries. A starter battery and the aux battery. Aux battery failed. You'll see a pic of how it was dated. Symptoms when it fails are you can't open the trunk, and to actually get in the car involves yanking out the manual key from the fob. As with most German stuff, it is over-complicated. The WSM basically says remove negative from the starter battery. Then undo negative and positive from the aux battery in the trunk. Of course along with this you'll have 50,000 posts about fault codes, TPMS went bad, ABS went to hell, etc. None of that happened. Here is the the starter battery:  Weird one, and costs more than than the one I needed to replace even though it looks like it belongs on a garden tractor. But whatever. Onto the rear end-end where the other one lives.  This is exposed by yanking off the the back trunk panel that lays there in the picture. The bad battery is in the lower right with the strap. On the left you'll see some foam padding and a bunch of tubing. That is the compressor and air hoses for the seats. In the middle you'll notice some insulation and below it relays and fuses. To replace those fuses (and I think this is basically #5 on the number of fuse blocks) there is a panel in the center armrest that you can flip up. European models had a few different options. You could get the "ski option" that would allow you to shove something through the hole or the mini-fridge option. The fridge would sit in the trunk and could be accessed through the center armrest. Can be retrofitted but actually requires a different seat frame assembly. And amazingly there is a wire harness they provide for all of this along with a new trunk panel. But I digress A close up of the battery and various wiring along with battery date and a smiley face because someone probably paid $500 to replace it back then:  So yanking this baby out (it is an H8 and is heavy as hell and there is a 10 cent plastic elbow off to the side and the tube for outgassing:  That copper tube behind the pos terminal (it's plastic, if it were a few inches longer would have made things much simpler for re-installation. It was tight with the 10 cent elbow off the battery). Anyways, no errors. And a nice 20% discount from advance auto made my day.
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Jan 4, 2018 06:10
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I remember my dad having to replace his in his 550 SL. Interesting. The amount of room that hardtop takes up in the trunk is impressive.
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Jan 4, 2018 14:28
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This weather has definitely done a number on batteries. I think I going to get myself a yellow top Optima after my car was slow cranking with the negative temps.
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Jan 4, 2018 17:35
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Installed a backup camera, and snapped the largest piece of exterior trim on my Outback in the process. 
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Jan 4, 2018 17:47
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Wasabi the J posted:Installed a backup camera, and snapped the largest piece of exterior trim on my Outback in the process. How bad? That 3m plastic epoxy is mean stuff. You might be able to repair it.
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Jan 4, 2018 17:56
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EvilBeard posted:This weather has definitely done a number on batteries. I think I going to get myself a yellow top Optima after my car was slow cranking with the negative temps. Synthetic oil will help with slow cranking. Also slow cranking is to be expected. If it doesn't have any trouble starting and it's not getting worse every day, you're fine. My car cranks kinda slow at -20F, but it fires up every time and it's not getting worse, so I don't worry about it. If one day it barely starts or needs a boost, then it's new battery time. Otherwise, eh, it's the nature of the beast. Also put a volt meter on the battery and make sure it's coming up above 14v after starting. I don't know how many batteries I've seen replaced only to have the alternator or some parasitic draw be the root of the issue. chrisgt fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Jan 4, 2018 |
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Jan 4, 2018 18:02
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chrisgt posted:Synthetic oil will help with slow cranking. Also slow cranking is to be expected. If it doesn't have any trouble starting and it's not getting worse every day, you're fine. I have synthetic oil in my car. It charges ok, but when I load test the battery it's on the borderline of passing. I haven't looked at the date on the battery, but it's been in the car as long as I've owned it. I think it's just toward the end of its life. I was told by the dealer a year or so ago that I should look at getting a new one, but after load testing and checking the voltage it was still in the passing area, so I just kept it. I just think with this cold snap making it slow considerably (even compared to last winter), it should probably go on my to do list. First is getting a new garage door. My old wooden one struggles to open when it gets cold, so I have to jimmy it up and down a few times to get past where it hangs up. It's easier to do with the button, so I often have to get out, open the door, then pull the car in. It's annoying when it's -10°F. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Jan 4, 2018 |
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Jan 4, 2018 18:30
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EvilBeard posted:First is getting a new garage door. My old wooden one struggles to open when it gets cold, so I have to jimmy it up and down a few times to get past where it hangs up. It's easier to do with the button, so I often have to get out, open the door, then pull the car in. It's annoying when it's -10°F. That sounds more like you need to tension the door lift springs a bit more, or replace them. I've tweaked the springs on my door so it's pretty much neutral - it'll stay where you stop at most of the opening range. Lots easier on the opener, that way.
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Jan 4, 2018 19:35
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Filed a claim because some rear end in a top hat keyed it. https://i.imgur.com/dRF5atJ.jpg Brand new 17 4runner. Was hoping it's first damage would be having fun off-road, not sitting at work in a parking deck
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Jan 4, 2018 20:40
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Darchangel posted:That sounds more like you need to tension the door lift springs a bit more, or replace them. I've tweaked the springs on my door so it's pretty much neutral - it'll stay where you stop at most of the opening range. Lots easier on the opener, that way. It broke a spring this summer, so I put new springs,rollers, and pulleys on it. I put bigger springs on, to help lift the big door. A couple years ago, the gear stripped on my opener, so it's a new 3/4 hp chamberlain. It's got plenty of pull. For some reason when it's cold, the door snags going up. It's like it pulls harder off the ground, the door flexes in the center, and then it snags going up. Sometimes it does rock side to side, but only when it's cold. I'm just go to buy a cheap insulated steel door (I have a 16' door). Insulation is a bonus when heating in the winter. Plus it will come with a torsion spring setup instead of the spring and pulley system I have now.
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Jan 4, 2018 20:47
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EvilBeard posted:It broke a spring this summer, so I put new springs,rollers, and pulleys on it. I put bigger springs on, to help lift the big door. A couple years ago, the gear stripped on my opener, so it's a new 3/4 hp chamberlain. It's got plenty of pull. Huh, that's weird. I wonder if having a door guy look at it and do a tune up on it would be worth anything? Something out of whack on the tracks or cables, maybe. That said, a nice aluminum door is a treat. I had to replace my uninsulated one a while back because my wife forgot to set her parking brake and bent a panel, which started to sag as it got horizontal, got worse, and started bending the other ones. I braced it and crutched it along as much as possible. Got lucky and found a guy on Craigslist who had just the panels from his buddy's garage conversion (guy just wanted the hardware). $150 and a bit of a drive to the country and I had an insulated 17' door that, to boot, matched the paint on the house! Pretty easy to put it in. Hardest part was dealing with unwinding, then winding the torsion spring (the garage door experts warn you that you will kill yourself doing this - for experts only! Professionals required!) I've already replaced two broken torsion springs on my old door, so no problem. Put the old, bent panels on the curb and the scrappers spirited then away the night before trash day. Razzled posted:Filed a claim because some rear end in a top hat keyed it. People suck. I wonder what perceived slight you caused him/her/it? Sometimes "drives a new vehicle" is enough.
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Jan 5, 2018 00:27
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Darchangel posted:Hardest part was dealing with unwinding, then winding the torsion spring (the garage door experts warn you that you will kill yourself doing this - for experts only! Professionals required!) I've already replaced two broken torsion springs on my old door, so no problem. Always wondered about that one...as in it looks fairly straight forward but who knows until you try it kind of thing.
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Jan 5, 2018 00:34
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EvilBeard posted:How bad? That 3m plastic epoxy is mean stuff. You might be able to repair it. Honestly I'm probably just going to slap some 3m helicopter tape over it. It's a super tight crack with no Gap and I don't trust my epoxy skills enough to not really gently caress up the surrounding areas.
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Jan 5, 2018 00:44
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Changed out what could be the original thermostat.I don't know if that was a gasket or RTV but it was hard as a rock.  God my first real look into the cooling system, it seems okay.  The most tense moment,when an odd rusty 45 year old fasterner is taking more torque than it should to break loose, then something lets go. Luckily it was the bolt coming out and not just snapping off.  I hosed all that poo poo up with anti-seize on the way back in.
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Jan 5, 2018 02:22
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Powershift posted:
Know how I know you were working on the Lincoln? That loving studbolt God drat does Ford ever have a raging hard-on for that bullshit.  I poured 5 quarts of oil into my car today. It had started rattling really badly (like, worse than it normally does, which is quite an achievement) and then the dummy lamp started coming on when I hit the brakes, so I knew it was time. Motor will still probably outlast the clutch, so I don't really give a poo poo. Hoping I get rear ended just hard enough to total it without injuring me tomorrow... What a loving nugget that thing is.
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Jan 5, 2018 03:29
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kastein posted:Know how I know you were working on the Lincoln? The hate you have for your shitpile is so pure and beautiful it makes me smile.
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Jan 5, 2018 04:13
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Darchangel posted:Huh, that's weird. I wonder if having a door guy look at it and do a tune up on it would be worth anything? Something out of whack on the tracks or cables, maybe. That sounds pretty nifty. I'm gonna have to look into buying an insulated door. I was considering insulating the one I have now but it looks like to do it properly it's not cheap and most pros recommend just replacing it with an insulated door. What sucks is that it's a brand new house, with a brand new door and idfk why it wasn't an option to get an insulated door in the first place.
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Jan 5, 2018 18:01
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Colostomy Bag posted:Always wondered about that one...as in it looks fairly straight forward but who knows until you try it kind of thing. You just need a couple of 1/2" x 18" round bars (or whatever fits in your spring-end. Heh. Fits in your end) and to pay attention to what you're doing. There's a lot of force in the springs, but not really any worse than, say, doing springs on a strut. My door, being 17', thankfully uses two smaller springs rather than on yuge one. If replacing a spring, you need to know the diameter of the spring wire and how many coils it has. IF releasing a spring to do work on the door with the expectation of reusing it, keep track of how many turns it was tightened, so you can put it back that many, then adjust more or fewer turns for neutral door weight, or just slightly heavy. GnarlyCharlie4u posted:That sounds pretty nifty. I'm gonna have to look into buying an insulated door. I was considering insulating the one I have now but it looks like to do it properly it's not cheap and most pros recommend just replacing it with an insulated door. There are kits of styrofoam inserts for garage doors at Home Depot, but I have no clue how effective they are. My factory-built panels have a nice vinyl skin on the exposed side, and fill the whole cavity. I suspect that their slid in from the end before the aluminum is folded at that end. At least you should be able to sell your existing door panels on Craigslist, or perhaps trade in on the new door panels.
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Jan 5, 2018 21:49
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My friend insulated his garage door with a kit from Lowes and it worked nicely. I mean, he had to insulate all the walls as well but he can keep the temp above 50 now.
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Jan 5, 2018 21:54
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Darchangel posted:You just need a couple of 1/2" x 18" round bars (or whatever fits in your spring-end. Heh. Fits in your end) and to pay attention to what you're doing. There's a lot of force in the springs, but not really any worse than, say, doing springs on a strut. My door, being 17', thankfully uses two smaller springs rather than on yuge one. If replacing a spring, you need to know the diameter of the spring wire and how many coils it has. IF releasing a spring to do work on the door with the expectation of reusing it, keep track of how many turns it was tightened, so you can put it back that many, then adjust more or fewer turns for neutral door weight, or just slightly heavy. I was seriously considering buying the panel kits and then also getting some butyl mats and finish it by covering the whole thing in space blanket material. I'm not so sure if the butyl mats are a great idea though because that would add a hell of a lot of weight. What's the good stuff for insulating around the door? Rhyno posted:My friend insulated his garage door with a kit from Lowes and it worked nicely. I mean, he had to insulate all the walls as well but he can keep the temp above 50 now. I managed to sneak in while they were building my house and insulate the exterior walls as well as put up a vapor barrier, so luckily that's already done.
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Jan 5, 2018 22:28
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Darchangel posted:Hardest part was dealing with unwinding, then winding the torsion spring (the garage door experts warn you that you will kill yourself doing this - for experts only! Professionals required!) I've already replaced two broken torsion springs on my old door, so no problem. You don’t have to go far to find someone who’s mangled themselves doing it, it really is dangerous. I had a single spring replaced for only $130 this month, which was worth every penny. I didn’t think I could even get parts for that cost, and it didn’t look like fun.
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Jan 5, 2018 23:01
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StormDrain posted:You don’t have to go far to find someone who’s mangled themselves doing it, it really is dangerous. I had a single spring replaced for only $130 this month, which was worth every penny. I didn’t think I could even get parts for that cost, and it didn’t look like fun. My brother and I were about to attempt to repair one on my mom's garage door. We decided to watch some youtube videos and they showed how easy it was to shred human flesh so we decided to call a professional.
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Jan 5, 2018 23:03
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I think i might be retarded  I've been starting the truck for the last little while by putting a pair of vice grips accross the terminals on the glow plug relay even though i had a new one in the glovebox. Today i went to start it and the engine shook the vice grips off and jumped the hot side to the intercooler piping, which caused the terminals on the starter relay to start smoking, which is *checks notes* bad? It starts up just fine, but i guess i should probably get a starter relay to keep in the glovebox. I swapped out the GPR. For the record this is the difference between the $100 cad GPR-110 and $50 cad GPR-109 from napa.  It's literally just the way the plate is riveted on. You can put in 1 bolt instead of 2, or stretch the wires a bit. I did the lazy one. Then i go to start the truck to move it out of the garage, and it's dead. I panic, thinking putting a live 12v to the intercooler piping hosed something up. I get out, open the hood, re-connect the battery terminals i disconnected to replace the GPR, and drive the truck out front. Then i go back into the garage and spend 15 minutes looking for my god drat phone. I search the garage, i search the truck, i search the garage. Then i pop the hood on the truck, grab my phone sitting there on the rad cover. On the plus side, the inside of the car now gets nice and toasty.
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Jan 6, 2018 01:21
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Did the cold just freeze your brain, or what? Gotta admit using a wrench to jump the glow plug relay is an effective anti-theft mechanism though.
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Jan 6, 2018 02:30
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