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Maybe? Weld a scrap and etch it. It's the only way to know. Sometimes ugly welds are strong, sometimes pretty welds are weak.Slung Blade posted:Materials wise it was about $120 cdn (I bought lots of extra steel though). When I figured out the hours of labour spent plus what I would want for a premium I'd probably charge 1500 or so for a commission of this nature.
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Jan 3, 2018 02:14
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DreadLlama posted:How did you do those feet? It looks like you split them out of the leg. Or are they welded on? I heat up the tip of the iron, then I hold roughly an inch of it edge-on to the sharp corner of the anvil at roughly a 45' angle. Then I hammer it lightly a couple times, making sure the divot starts and stays sharp. Once I'm about 1/3 of the way in I bring the bar up flat, parallel with the anvil face and I beat the gently caress out of it until it flattens out, refine the edge until it's gently rounded, and then I put a fuller on it by using the rounded edge of the anvil. Sorry, does that make sense? This is kind of like trying to explain how to tie a knot with words. I can draw some diagrams if you like.
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Jan 3, 2018 03:23
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This now-very-overdue CHRISTMAS CHAOS ICON is just about done not sure if I’ll make it into the usual medallion by cutting the sheet away and leaving a strip to bend into a bail, or trim the backing sheet neat and drill some holes so it can be nailed or pinned up. Probably the former, it’s easier and more flexible for the giftee
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Jan 4, 2018 06:48
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It's not done until you add an incredible crocodile skin texture like Douglas Pryor. Looks great though.
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Jan 4, 2018 18:03
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I always kinda phone it in for texturing and final chasing because I forget how long the repousse process takes from beginning to end so I just want it out of the pitchbowl once I’m in the home stretch. I’ve done some really good-looking interesting stuff when it’s a me-project and I don’t just run with stuff using existing punches that’ll cover the repousse tooling marks quickly and reliably. I haven’t done something really challenging in an eternity, I should tackle something that isn’t a rote quick-and-easy gift some time. (and yeah Pryor’s stuff is an extremely humbling reminder of how this craft is one of those you work at for years and years and are still “decent but not great” or whatever ) Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Jan 4, 2018 |
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Jan 4, 2018 20:51
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Am I nuts to buy and import a surface plate myself from China? Note: Aussies do not have access to reasonably priced surface plates like US folk do. Options: $900 for a 600x600 bought locally. Too small to rebuild most of my machines. And we can get 250x250 surface plates for $100 for small parts. $1500-$2000 for a 1000x750 plate bought locally (basically imported from China by an Australian group, and you get the peace of mind of a guarantee) $1250 for a 1000x1000 Chinese import. $360 US price + 750 AUS import fees. I am employing a professional to get it to me. I guess what I'm worried about is shipping risks, I have no knowledge of the open sea, navigating with a pipe in ones mouth, getting things to their destination port, etc. Oh, and forklifts. The company I'm buying from in Qingdao has a reputation of actually existing and an incident of a successful supply of one surface plate to an Aussie customer before. Mudfly fucked around with this message at 06:08 on Jan 6, 2018 |
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Jan 6, 2018 03:42
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I wish i took more picture of this for progress pics, but My first big project outside of my blacksmith class is a straight edge razor and the scales. The blade is 01 tool steel and the scales are from a plank of purple heart, I haven't put any thing on them yet, so the color isn't there. The blade is not finished yet, still have to finish the grind and heat treat, as you can see in the picture i have some things to clean up on it, but its exciting to make something like this! 
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Jan 7, 2018 10:57
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Mudfly posted:Am I nuts to buy and import a surface plate myself from China? Note: Aussies do not have access to reasonably priced surface plates like US folk do. I don't think it's nuts. You buy the tool you need to do the job. I'd buy the larger one, it's pretty rare with metrology stuff that you wish you'd bought the little one. Anytime we purchase internationally all shipping is handled with a broker. We don't do poo poo other than write them a check. My one experience buying a chinese machine tool went poorly, but had nothing to do with the broker/shipping process.
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Jan 7, 2018 12:52
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Mudfly posted:Am I nuts to buy and import a surface plate myself from China? In short, that's the shipper's problem until it gets to you. At worst, you'll get a refund and have to wait for another one. Anything that price, shipping will probably include insurance. For those VATS I'd almost be willing to bring you a plate. You could probably buy the plate, and a round trip plane ticket to and from the US, and it would still be cheaper. Ouch 
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Jan 8, 2018 16:09
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Anyone use mini lathes or mills in here? I'm currently really tempted by a 7x mini lathe, partially because I have a couple projects where it would be extremely helpful, but also partially because I know full well that that's all it'd take to get waaayy into machining as a full blown hobby alongside woodworking. I don't have the space for what I'd really like, so I really am stuck with sub ~24" bed, and if I'm stuck with a small lathe, I think I'd rather it be inexpensive but as capable as possible. Also variable speed. I really really want variable speed. Grizzly G0795 and the tooling package from LMS (and live center, carriage stop and a 4 jaw) is only about $1k. I have all the metrology stuff I need from being a ridiculous woodworking nerd, so it seems mighty close to 1k to get fully up and running for the most part. I'm sure that number will double in time, but if it's not in one lump, I won't notice  The 7x16 LMS 5100/5200 lathes are tempting, but I think I'd prefer to get in and out of the 7x world with my wallet comparatively unscathed once I get a better space and get something larger. I don't know if it's worth an extra ~$350ish for more threading, an extra 2" and no high/low range selector to worry about. Also a better color scheme. It's very easy to talk myself up to the variable speed 10x22 Grizzly, and then to one of their larger lathes or a Precision Matthews 12" or something, and then to a used toolroom lathe with a 40" bed. This is basically how my woodworking hobby got so out of hand.
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Jan 8, 2018 20:26
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Where’s the best place to look for used industrial CNC’s?
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Jan 9, 2018 00:43
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Junkyard Poodle posted:Where’s the best place to look for used industrial CNC’s? Regional Auctions. In my area Hoff-Hilk is a good one or check BidSpotter. Be aware that most require riggers and transport and you don't have any say in who does it. In some cases you can't inspect the goods until the day of the auction and the auctioneers will provide next to no photos. You will absolutely see 5 axis machining centers with a single thumbnail photo, and that's it. If we can't inspect we only bid on poo poo we are intimately familiar with. Even then it's a crap shoot. On one hand we picked up 6 foot whale back iron masters for like $50, and on the other we have a forklift with so many hours it's ridiculous.
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Jan 9, 2018 02:32
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I have some spur gears for my lathe that mount on a plate such that the distances between the centres for the gears can be adjusted. I can either screw it up so the gears are jammed together, or leave it really sloppy so they rattle around a bit. I am just not sure how much room to leave them so they mesh properly. Is there some art to putting this together so it runs well? I was thinking of pulling out inventor, drawing some gearchains using the modules and no. of teeth then measuring the distances inventor gives me. I dont have experience assembling gear trains so no real experience to 'go by feel'. The gears are in positions on the lathe such that the centre distances will be tricky to get to to measure.
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Jan 13, 2018 12:16
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At least for small gears, an accepted method is to put a bit of paper in between the gears, mash them together, then pull the paper out so there's a small gap. There's probably a more technical/accurate method though
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Jan 13, 2018 16:40
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As an example this Monarch manual wants three thousandths clearance on the change gears which would basically support the paper technique.
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Jan 14, 2018 16:56
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I'm pretty sure the module is 2. I can get near enough by going by the outer diameter, and dividing by the no. of teeth then rounding. Then I'll take the actual module and multiply it by the no of teeth to get the PCD. This will allow me to scribe lines where the teeth should contact each other, and I can align the gears by aligning the scribe lines.
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Jan 15, 2018 11:34
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you know what would be funny. if someone sandblasted a bunch of CP2 titanium parts with garnet abrasive, took satisfaction in a job well done, and then thought for like 30 seconds about why someone would choose titanium for a part, what garnet abrasive is, and what microscopic pieces of iron-aluminum crystal now studding the soft faces of said CP2 titanium parts might do to an item that must be corrosion-free if somebody did that, gee, they'd sure have egg on their face. what a sucker they'd be
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Jan 16, 2018 02:37
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Ambrose Burnside posted:you know what would be funny. if someone sandblasted a bunch of CP2 titanium parts with garnet abrasive, took satisfaction in a job well done, and then thought for like 30 seconds about why someone would choose titanium for a part, what garnet abrasive is, and what microscopic pieces of iron-aluminum crystal now studding the soft faces of said CP2 titanium parts might do to an item that must be corrosion-free Glass bead blast it? That kinda sucks, it's gonna rust. It won't harm the Ti, but it'll sure look ugly. You could try dissolving the iron/aluminum with an acid, I guess.
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Jan 16, 2018 04:47
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fortunately i just junked a bunch of parts that i considered unsellable as-is and was trying to salvage (took too long hot-forging them so they have an ugly deep brown oxide instead of the desired rainbow flame anodization) so no huge loss there. glass beads sound like the ticket but i don't have access to a bead blasting cabinet to give it an exploratory whirl. cross that bridge when I come to it, I suppose. its just too hard to finish parts made from 1/4" stock quick enough to get the right anodization naturally so if I rack up some decent sales I'd want a lil cabinet to scour the oxide off with so I could re-torch it for purely cosmetic purposes afterwards now that I think of it, I don't have much blasting experience- if I wanted a single media that could simultaneously remove titanium oxide, peen the surface or at least give as smooth a finish as possible, and not risk embedded media and/or contamination, is that doable/realistic? Glass bead finishes are a lot more satin-ey and rough than I'd prefer. It sounds like wet blasting could make a good finish and avoiding embedded particles easy but I'd have to DIY that with my budget. The mickey-mouse "Harbor Freight blasting cabinet wet modification"-type examples I'm finding look pretty dire but definitely seem to dramatically improve the finish from dry blasting with the same medium. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Jan 16, 2018 |
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Jan 16, 2018 05:10
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What about just using scotch Brite hand pads to remove the oxide? Fine glass bead blasting isn't rough at all.
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Jan 16, 2018 06:56
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Ambrose Burnside posted:fortunately i just junked a bunch of parts that i considered unsellable as-is and was trying to salvage (took too long hot-forging them so they have an ugly deep brown oxide instead of the desired rainbow flame anodization) so no huge loss there. glass beads sound like the ticket but i don't have access to a bead blasting cabinet to give it an exploratory whirl. cross that bridge when I come to it, I suppose. its just too hard to finish parts made from 1/4" stock quick enough to get the right anodization naturally so if I rack up some decent sales I'd want a lil cabinet to scour the oxide off with so I could re-torch it for purely cosmetic purposes afterwards Do a cleaning blast using 36 grit aluminum oxide, but be sure it's the "white" variety and not the red. This will remove the outer layer of embedded garnet. For peening I'd look at a tumble blast stainless steel shot or find someone with a glass bead setup. You could also use a much finer alox after you've removed the garnet using 36 grit. This is 36 grit :  Alternatively test out baking soda, it will leave an inert surface and the look might be about what you want. Yes, just buy a box at the store, and then look like a weirdo when you go back to buy 50 boxes. Yes. I've done this. It wasn't nearly as weird as buying every bottle of KY Jelly at Walmart to use as ultrasonic couplant though...
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Jan 16, 2018 14:15
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sharkytm posted:What about just using scotch Brite hand pads to remove the oxide? Fine glass bead blasting isn't rough at all. They’re very small, intricate parts with deep recesses that can’t be scoured out properly with the usual manual/rotary abrasives, i’ve definitely tried with the scotchbrite and other approaches like wire/soft abrasive wheels and none of them can do a thorough job with 1/100th the speed blasting can. I’d need to try bead-blasting some actual parts with different mesh sizes before I can reject it out of hand, I’m just spoiled by the existing borderline-mirror polish a pristine hammer and anvil leave, and i non-negotiably need that very high finish on at least the working end of the parts. I think the answer there is just to planish the bead-blasted working face as necessary and leave the rest. e: IRT multiple mediums and sodablasting- i want to stay away from any multi-step processes because a single small benchtop cabinet is the absolute most I can reasonably swing, and soda sounds interesting and accessible but I doubt it has the tooth to remove flame-derived titanium oxide (it’s extremely persistent and deep by metal oxide standards and soda apparently struggles with more than mild rust on steel) Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Jan 16, 2018 |
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Jan 16, 2018 20:11
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Picked up some toys. Old model Warco wm14, rebadged generic mini mill, but has metal gears instead of plastic. 500 euro, never used, literally still has the packing grease on the slides.  1954-1960 model Myford ML7 with a box of gears for threading, some chucks that are in various states of functionality, a quick change toolpost and a few tool holders. Original stand.  Wasn't running, but someone had been grinding near it and a load of thrown grinder dust had melted into the stop switch and it wedged closed. (that's why the cover is off the switch in the pic.) Took off the cover and it fired right up  , I have cleaned up the switch since and its back to being as safe as a lathe like this can be.100 euro! I am still grinning about it 4 days later. Have to buy a bunch of tooling and accessories. once my dial gauges and micrometers arrive i'll see if the headstock bushes need to be changed, but it cut pretty well with the few tools that came with it. edit: the downside of the myford is now i have to let my misfit collection of non-metric tools out of solitary confinement and back into general population in the shed. echomadman fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Jan 17, 2018 |
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Jan 16, 2018 23:53
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Wow that's a hell of a deal, nice.
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Jan 17, 2018 16:04
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I love the ml7, and they still sell parts for them!
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Jan 17, 2018 18:31
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Brekelefuw posted:I love the ml7, and they still sell parts for them! I had a line on one a year or two back that was in immaculate condition and came with a full tooling suite (it was a career machinist's garage queen), even the relatively-unknowledgeable estate auctioneers kept emphasizing how wear/rust/damage was essentially nonexistent and how unlikely that is in a machine like this. it ended up selling at auction for like. $650-700 CAD? The only reason I didn't jump on it was because I had no way to transport it, no place I could set it up for the short-mid term foreseeable future, and even temporary storage would have needed calling in a few favours. Still kicking myself that I didn't rent a storage unit or something for it.
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Jan 17, 2018 21:33
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ML7's in Australia are often put up for $3000 or more if they're in good nic. I saw one the other day and couldn't get my head around it - they're so small. I have a question regarding slot milling. Whenever I try to do a shallow cut into mild steel, especially if it's into thin material, I often destroy my mill's cutting edge and it turns into a heat generating poo poo show - say a 0.25mm deep cut into 3mm thick mild steel. OTOH, I can do quite decent roughing on the side of pieces. I think it has to do with either chip clearing or engaging more than just the tip of the end mill. Any suggestions? As in the pic on the left.  gif upload
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Jan 20, 2018 23:57
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Mudfly posted:I have a question regarding slot milling. Whenever I try to do a shallow cut into mild steel, especially if it's into thin material, I often destroy my mill's cutting edge and it turns into a heat generating poo poo show - say a 0.25mm deep cut into 3mm thick mild steel. OTOH, I can do quite decent roughing on the side of pieces. I think it has to do with either chip clearing or engaging more than just the tip of the end mill. Any suggestions? Thin material is kind of a poo poo show. If you can't hold it rigidly it's likely you've got vibration and flexing working against you. When milling an edge piece your setup is probably more rigid and your tool is only generating a chip on one edge. I'd go very slow, with as much support as you can use, and still expect to gently caress up your tools.
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Jan 21, 2018 00:11
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This is technically in my wood shop, but it's for metalwork so it fits here better I think. I'm working on a build that involves drilling and tapping aluminum on edge, and I really need it to be precise. My old drillpress isn't bad in terms of runout, but it's got too much table flex for that kind of thing (it flexes too much for some woodworking stuff, too). Had some scrap 3" square tube and allthread laying around, so I made a sort of post jack. Runs from 20" to 39" without a problem, which covers the full range that I really need it for. It's comical how much stiffer it made the table.  
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Jan 21, 2018 04:44
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Considering commissioning an item and I'm just wondering if any goons would like dibs. What I need: two hemispheres that thread together, with a small compartment inside. The assembled sphere would be around 1.5" diameter. A couple cuts around the perimeter at various latitudes in order to mask the seam across the equator. I don't need the entire thing hollow, I only need a cavity, like, 3/8" in diameter and 1/2" deep. The specifics are completely flexible, as long as we can make it look sphere-ish without a super obvious seam. So if there's some way we can change the final product to make the creation process easier, so be it, that's fine and dandy. Like if it were simply way easier to have flattened ends instead of a full sphere, great, I don't care. Specific material isn't really a concern, just "metal" would suffice. I'm currently considering turning the parts in wood, embedding a brass pipe cap and plug in there, and using that, but if I could actually do the thing in metal, that'd be sweat. What I'm currently looking at is this, each half embedded in some wood turned to hemispheres, with the fittings providing both the cavity and the threading action:  For scale, that's a 3/8" fitting. The wood approach is less than ideal, though, because the prop is supposed to be metal, so I'd end up painting this thing and it'd look not as awesome. If I can do it in metal for a not insane amount of money, I'd be pretty jazzed. What it'd actually cost me, though, I guess that's up to you. Here's what I'm currently imagining if it were done in metal: two hemispheres, one with some male threads sticking out, the other with female threads recessed in. The male portion being hollow to have a small cavity. It's a glorified nut and bolt, I know. I also figured on a bevel at the equator where the two halves meet, in order to make that seam more forgiving, and a couple other matching cuts elsewhere to distract. The idea here is that a person could have this thing in hand and if it were firmly screwed shut, they might not even realize that it could open.  Anyone wanna take a stab? For compensation, of course. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Jan 23, 2018 |
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Jan 23, 2018 05:38
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If I were gonna make that (and I'm not volunteering), I'd probably start with a pre-made hollow metal sphere or, if I couldn't find one, two metal hemispherical bowls. http://www.sharpeproducts.com/store/metal-hemispheres-spheres https://shop.wagnercompanies.com/spheres-and-hemispheres http://www.kingmetals.com/Catalog/ItemContent.aspx?ItemNumber=2060 Then I'd weld some threaded pipe into one side, and a fitting that threaded onto it into the other. Maybe grind in the additional lines, assuming the material is thick enough. Also, how much does it need to unscrew? E.g. could you get away with, instead of threads, having brackets around the circumference of one hemisphere that interlock with studs on the other, so that a twist of a few degrees will open it? Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Jan 27, 2018 |
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Jan 27, 2018 01:10
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Figured I'd see what I can do with some some random ~1/2"-3/4" hardware and 1.5" 6061 slugs that were laying around. I think one of these 3/4"-10 s.s. grub screws will be getting bored out and turned into the male thread.  Face some slugs, drill/tap 1/2"-13 .500" deep, stick one on a threaded mandrel and take a few bites at 22.5* steps   Could take some finer steps, or file it pretty close to a true radius with some elbow grease, but I think this is probably good enough for now    Once the second half is caught up to match, I figure flip them over in the chuck and re-bore for some magic threads 
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Jan 27, 2018 12:03
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Oh man, that’s awesome, you’re awesome. You have my contact info!
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Jan 27, 2018 16:13
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I feel really stupid for asking this question but here goes: If a shaft is exactly 10.00000000mm (with infinite zeroes) in diameter and so is a hole, will the shaft go in the hole if it is exactly parallel?
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Jan 29, 2018 10:56
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Mudfly posted:I feel really stupid for asking this question but here goes: If a shaft is exactly 10.00000000mm (with infinite zeroes) in diameter and so is a hole, will the shaft go in the hole if it is exactly parallel? It depends on the material, but generally yes. When we make dowel holes we actually aim for an interference fit of around .0002"
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Jan 29, 2018 12:07
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Mudfly posted:I feel really stupid for asking this question but here goes: If a shaft is exactly 10.00000000mm (with infinite zeroes) in diameter and so is a hole, will the shaft go in the hole if it is exactly parallel? You can call out the fit too. Then you just say 10.000mm h7 hole with a 10.000mm h6 shaft. 
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Jan 29, 2018 13:16
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Lathespin.gif posted:Figured I'd see what I can do with some some random ~1/2"-3/4" hardware and 1.5" 6061 slugs that were laying around. Well, might as well share the spreadsheet from my apprenticeship when I had to manually cut hemispheres all the time https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/0AqVxt1xVmOOzdGRYaV9CV3d2d1hvVG1KQ2pYWnZ3WkE/edit?usp=drivesdk This is for cutting ball ends as a series of progressively shallower facing cuts. .020 between steps and cleanup with emery has worked well for me. shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Jan 29, 2018 |
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Jan 29, 2018 15:41
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Mudfly posted:I feel really stupid for asking this question but here goes: If a shaft is exactly 10.00000000mm (with infinite zeroes) in diameter and so is a hole, will the shaft go in the hole if it is exactly parallel? make sure the hole goes all the way through the material, or the shaft is hollow, or you'll have to assemble it in a vacuum.
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Jan 29, 2018 20:19
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Leperflesh posted:make sure the hole goes all the way through the material, or the shaft is hollow, or you'll have to assemble it in a vacuum. I've installed pins in blind holes and intentionally left oil/grease in the bottom so that when I need to remove them I just hit it with a torch, the oil expands, and the pins goes flying. Sometimes with a bit more vigor than I'd like. But it actually works surprisingly well.
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Jan 29, 2018 21:08
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Leperflesh posted:make sure the hole goes all the way through the material, or the shaft is hollow, or you'll have to assemble it in a vacuum. Wouldn't you then run into an issue with the shaft vacuum-welding itself to the hole?
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Jan 29, 2018 21:27
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